Q. What's up with those old Nalgene bottles? A friend of mine said they were made with stuff that's bad for you. Is that true? I still use one. Are they safe?

-- Concerned Chris, Atlanta, Ga.

A. Although Bisphenol-A (BPA), the stuff in Nalgene's classic polycarbonate shatterproof water bottles, has been used for nearly 50 years in products like baby bottles, water bottles and the lining of most metal food and beverage containers, some scientists found study results that suggest BPA could cause "potential health risks." Government agencies including the Environmental Protection Agency and the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) have found that polycarbonate is not harmful to humans. Still, Nalgene decided to phase out the old bottles. Today, they offer only water bottles made without BPA.

Should you toss out your old polycarbonate Nalgene bottle? The FDA says no, and not to worry. It's a decision you need to make with the help of your parents. For more in-depth info on Nalgene and BPA, check these links:

• www.fda.gov
• www.nalgene-outdoor.com

Q. I need to get a good sleeping bag that weighs two pounds at most and will keep me warm in at least 30-degree weather. What kind of bag should I look for?

-- Dylan the Undecided, St. Charles, Ill.

A. For cold-weather backpacking, I recommend a mummy-style bag. The cut is narrow so there's less empty space for your body to heat up. Mummies are also lighter than traditional rectangular-shape bags and are easily compressible to a size that'll fit inside your backpack.

Most mummy bags are made with either synthetic insulation or tons of down feathers, usually from geese or ducks. While down bags are warm, lightweight and compressible, if they get wet they'll quickly lose their insulating ability and won't keep you warm. Synthetic insulation will continue to keep you warm even when it gets wet. Best of all, synthetic bags are usually more affordable.

Here are some options:

BSA 100th Anniversary Sleeping Bag ($90, www.scoutstuff.org) Made by Eureka to honor the BSA centennial, this 30-degree bag filled with ThermaShield synthetic insulation weighs in at a mere 2 lbs. 5 oz.

REI Polar Pod +25 ($89, www.rei.com) A no-frills synthetic mummy that weighs 3 lbs. 12 oz.

Q. What's the best way to store Dutch ovens to keep them away from dirt and bugs and to stop rusting?

-- Rusty Pot Paul, Spotsylvania, Va.

A. While I'm an expert at eating all sorts of tasty stuff baked in Dutch ovens, I'm not so handy with care and maintenance tips. That's why I got in touch with Brenda Wildish from the International Dutch Oven Society. Here's what she had to say:

"First, make sure the oven has a good seasoning (a coating of lard, vegetable oil, etc. that makes it stick-free). Then, place a paper towel inside the oven to collect the moisture. Some folks also use newspaper. Next, prop open the lid with a folded paper towel, just a small crack to let the air circulate. The helps the oven from going rancid. To prevent critters from getting in, store your oven in a box or pillowcase, or buy a carrying bag to fit the oven."

There you go, Rusty. For more info, check out the International Dutch Oven Society at www.idos.com. And if you need help cleaning the fresh-baked brownies out of your Dutch oven, let me know!

Q. Whenever I go camping I always cut oranges with my knife. But then my knife sticks and is hard to get open. What is the best way to de-stick my knife?

-- Sticky Fetzko, Munhall, Pa.

A. First, try licking the juice off the blade ... wait, bad idea! Very bad idea.

Here's what my friend Jeff Freeman, a big-time knife designer with Gerber Legendary Blades, recommends: "Wash your knife in warm water with simple dish soap. This will get the acid off. Be sure to get any gunk out of the knife's locking mechanism. (Try using a toothpick.) Then, towel it dry or let it air dry.

"If you live by the coast where there's lots of salt air, dab a little motor oil on a rag and rub it onto the blade. Finally, wipe it off with a towel."

Few things epitomize the Be Prepared motto more than the new Adventure Medical Kits S.O.L. 3 -- Survive Outdoors Longer ($56; www.adventuremedicalkits.com).

This one-pound kit is about the size of The Boy Scout Handbook and includes all sorts of things you might need in the event of an emergency. If you or one of your friends gets injured, you’ve got a full featured first aid kit. Blow the strap on your backpack or rip a hole in your tent, this kit includes handy gear repair items like zipties, safety pins, nylon cord and duct tape. Finally, for those times when things go really wrong, the S.O.L. 3 includes survival gear like an emergency LED headlamp, space blanket, rescue whistle, flint fire starter, compass, and signal mirror.

All of the above is organized inside a water-resistant bag with a cheat sheet on how to handle many medical and survival situations.

Q. What should you pack in a daypack at Scout camp?

-- What-to-Pack Zach, Bay City, Tex.

A. Hey Zach, Thanks for the question. Well, what to pack really depends on what you’ll be doing at Scout camp (hiking? kayaking? rock climbing?), what time of year it is, what the weather is like, etc.

Luckily, we covered all that in our gear checklists article in the March 2009 issue of Boys’ Life. You can also check it out online here: http://boyslife.org/outdoors/guygear/6948/gear-checklists-for-your-next-trip/

And don’t forget that The Boy Scout Handbook is a great resource and has lots of handy checklists.

Man, it seems like these boots have been around forever. Well, they sort of have.

This year is the Vasque Sundowner’s 25th anniversary. Over the years it has become one of the most popular hiking boots on the market -- and for good reason. When it was introduced in 1984, the Sundowner was the first boot with a one-piece, full-grain leather upper, which greatly eliminates seams (fewer seams mean fewer places for stitching to come apart and less chance for water to seep in).

These 3 lbs. 3 oz. boots are lined with Gore-Tex for waterproofness and breathability and receive very good reviews for durability. The style is decidedly old-school. And we dig it. We think you will too. ($160; www.vasque.com)

Q. What’s better for the outdoors: a headlamp or a flashlight?

-- Looking-for-a-light Larry, Orlando, Fla.

A. Larry, this is a good question. The biggest benefit to using a headlamp that’s strapped to your noggin is that it provides hands-free lighting. That means when you’re on an outing, you can cook, hike, read in your tent, go to the bathroom, etc. without holding a flashlight. Also, headlamps tend to be more compact and lighter weight than conventional flashlights. Headlamps usually have variable light levels and many also come with a flashing emergency light option. Sure, flashlights are great, but I’d say for the average Boy Scout a headlamp is the best choice.

Q. My family has a great sit-on-top kayak and I love paddling it around the lake in the summer but my parents make me wear a lifejacket and my back gets totally sweaty and gross. Please help me!

-- Sweaty Seth, Loudon, Tenn.

A. Don’t worry Seth, this is a common problem among kayakers in hot climates. I call it the ‘sweaty back syndrome.’ Obviously you'll always wear a lifejacket. So, first off, the bad news: You’re going to get sweaty on a hot day while wearing your lifejacket. Sorry, you just are.

But the good news is there are a few things you can do about it. One, try wearing a light-colored moisture-wicking performance tee (like Nike’s Dri-Fit, Under Armour or Capilene by Patagonia) that’ll move the sweat away from your skin. Of course a simple wet cotton teeshirt works really well too. When you get hot, hop in the water for a quick dip. Once you’re wet, the water evaporating off your teeshirt will help keep you cool.

There are also a couple new lifejackets on the market with mesh panels on the back that help keep you cool. One good one is the NRS Clearwater Mesh Back PFD ($70; www.nrsweb.com). Probably the coolest one (sorry to be so punny) I’ve seen is the Astral V-Eight ($109; www.astralbuoyancy.com) which has a mesh back plus air channels for improved ventilation that effectively reduce the skin-on-lifejacket contact by up to 70 percent.

Q. Dear Gear Guy. My friends and I do a lot of swimming in saltwater in the summer, and a common problem we have is the infamous itchy groin. Is there a solution?

-- Itchy Ian, Baltimore, Md.

A. Hey Ian, I love the ocean myself, so I know all about that infamous itchy groin. As I see it, there are a couple things going on that are making you and your buddies itchy.

First off, when you swim around and play in the waves your thighs are rubbing against each other and the material of your swim trunks causing irritation. Add in little bits of sand and the tiny salt crystals that collect on your trunks and you’ve got something like sandpaper rubbing your skin raw.

To make matters worse you’re probably hanging around the beach all day in soggy swim trunks that never quite have a chance to dry. So that’s where all the irritation and itchiness probably comes from.

Once the itchiness sets in, there are a few things you can do to soothe your skin. First, get dry. Put on a fresh pair of underwear and a dry pair of shorts. Next, get a handful of baby powder and cover your whole crotch/groin area. This will help keep things dry down there. If your inner thighs are so raw that it’s uncomfortable to walk, rub some petroleum jelly or even diaper rash cream on the raw spots. That stuff helps reduce the skin-on-skin friction.

As for preventing the itchiness and irritation in the first place, after your day at the beach make sure you rinse out your trunks really well (inside and out) with fresh water, then hang them to dry. This will help remove all those little salt crystals that build up in the fabric. Do that stuff and you’ll probably be free of itchiness and irritation all summer long!

Ever dig your hungry paws into your backpack for a snack on the trail only to pull out a smashed, melted energy bar?

Sure it still gives you the boost you need to keep on trucking down the trail, but licking the wrapper and having to wash your hands afterward isn’t exactly ‘fast-and-easy.’ Those sports energy gels can be just as messy and sticky too, and are often less than satisfying to eat.

That’s why I was so psyched to discover Jelly Belly Sport Beans ($1.20, www.sportsbeans.com). Basically these are jelly beans that are designed to provide you energy when you’re really exercising or exerting yourself. They are packed with carbohydrate for fuel, electrolytes (sodium and potassium) for proper fluid balance, and B1, B2, B3, and C vitamins.

A study by the University of California even found that Sport Beans are just as effective as popular sports drinks and gels. Yes, they’re as tasty as any old jelly bean -- but better for you. Sport Beans come in four flavors: Lemon Lime, Orange, Berry Blue and Fruit Punch, and are great for mixing with gorp too.

Q. My Scout Troop took a four-day backpacking trip in the Sierra Nevada mountains. The mosquitoes were the biggest problem on the trip. I used several different bug sprays, and only one of them worked. But the one that worked only worked for about 15 minutes. What type of bug spray (preferably natural) could I use that would keep the mosquitoes away for at least an hour? Also, I’ve heard that there is clothing that keeps bugs away. How effective is this clothing?

-- Mosquito-Mauled Mel, Irvine, Calif.

A. I feel your pain, Mel. Mosquitoes really can cramp your style around camp. The good news: There are repellants that work. The bad news: Most aren’t made from natural ingredients.

You’ll hear and see all kinds of advertisements boasting natural repellants and how well they work. They might be somewhat effective for a short while, but if you’re serious about avoiding bug bites, DEET-based repellants are the most effective. The stuff really works (it’s what the Army uses), but it’s also the most toxic for our bodies -- it smells very strong, will melt some plastics, and don’t even think about getting it in your eyes!

Repellants are available in different concentrations of DEET, from 4.75-percent to 100-percent. Typically, the higher the concentration of the active ingredient, the longer the protection it’ll provide. For instance, a spray with 4.75-percent DEET would last about an hour or so while repellent with 23.8-percent DEET would be effective for almost five hours.

Do some testing of your own to figure out which is the lowest percentage of DEET repellant that still keeps the bugs away for you. Folks who are very susceptible to bug bites seem to feel like 25 percent DEET is the lowest concentration they can get away with using.

You might also try repellants that use Picaridin, it’s a newer (but not natural) DEET alternative that smells less strong and is perhaps a bit less toxic. But you guessed it: it’s still not as effective as DEET.

Your best bet is to wear light-colored long sleeve shirts and pant that are treated with an insecticide called Permethrin. This is safer because it’s not directly applied to your skin -- and it works (the Army uses this too). You can get your own bottle of the stuff, like Sawyer Permethrin Clothing Insect Repellant ($9; www.sawyer.com), and spray it on your own clothes — have your parents help! Or you can buy new clothing treated with Insect Shield (www.insectshield.com). I was skeptical of the Insect Shield clothing but I’ve tested it in some very buggy areas and I can say it does indeed work.

Still, the only way to be 100 percent free of bug bites is to wear Permethrin-treated clothing and spray DEET on your exposed skin.

Q. My troop just went on a weekend camp-out. After we climbed this big hill, I started chafing in my groin area. It itched so bad, it was really uncomfortable. My friends were making fun of me because I was adjusting my underwear all weekend. How do I prevent chafing?

-- Chafed Chad, Belleville, Kan.

A. Ahhh, crotch rot! Don't worry, Chad, you're not alone. Even if your buddies don't admit it, every guy has (or will have) problems with this. Chafing is often caused by poorly fitting clothes and/or sweating. So, wear a good pair of underwear that wicks sweat away from your body. Some guys prefer tight-fitting boxers that cover the inner thighs so there's no skin-to-skin rubbing. In this case, something like the Under Armor HeatGear Boxer Jock ($20; www.underarmour.com) would be good. For a looser fit, try Patagonia's Active Classic boxers ($32; www.patagonia.com). That might seem expensive for underwear, but if you avoid chafing, it's worth it.

Once on the trail, make sure to keep your body dry. Bring some baby powder with you. Just dump a handful into your palm then stick your hand in your pants and coat it all. Don't skimp on the stuff. This powder will keep you dry and should soothe any chafing hot spots.

Q. I'm going to Northern Tier High Adventure Base this summer and need a pair of boots that can dry quickly. They need to be light, closed-toe, fast-drying and fast-draining, considering I might be walking in water. What's the best choice?

-- Ely-Bound Alex, Alpharetta, Ga.

A. Good question, Alex. I contacted Carl Boyles, director of program at Northern Tier. His recommendation: "Aqua socks, dive boots, athletic shoes or river rafting shoes do not work well in canoe country because of the rocky environment. Northern Tier recommends a 'jungle' or military-style boot, often called a combat boot. These boots not only drain water well, but they have excellent ankle support. And the soles of these boots also hold up well against the sharp rocks that make up the terrain here. Finally, it should be made in the USA -- as we've found those made overseas don't hold up."

Northern Tier's online trading post sells Jungle Boots from Wellco, a major supplier of the U.S. Army for $59.95 at northerntiertradingpost.org/

Q. Dear Gear Guy, I have a 30-degree rated backpacking sleeping bag but still get cold in above freezing temperatures. Can you recommend a good bag that is light enough to carry and will still keep me warm? Thanks!

--Chilly Cooke, Troop #1, Jackson, Miss.

A. Hey Chilly, thanks for the question. The listed temperature rating of a sleeping bag is just a general guideline. Some guys are colder sleepers than others -- so they need warmer sleeping bags. And older, poorly maintained bags won’t keep you nearly as warm as a brand new bag.

All that considered, here are some things that might help: Try buying a sleeping bag liner. These are basically silk or fleece sheets that you slip inside your bag and add about 10 degrees of warmth (you can find them at REI.com for about $35-$60). Also try wearing long underwear when you sleep, and maybe even a stocking cap.

If you’re still totally freezing, it’s time to start shopping for a new sleeping bag. Check out my Guy Gear sleeping bag buyer’s guide and focus on the slimmer mummy-shaped bags rather than rectangular bags. The more narrow the bag and the tighter it fits, the less air your body has to heat up and the easier it will be for you to stay toasty at night. Down-filled bags also provide more warmth-to-weight ratio, so take a look at a lightweight bag like the 2 lbs. 14 oz. Marmot Sawtooth +15 down mummy bag ($200; www.marmot.com). Here’s hoping you’re name changes to Toasty Cooke after reading this!

Q. Hey Gear Guy, I have a question for you. What’s the difference between waterproof and water-resistant? I see it on lots of outdoor gear but I’m not sure which is which.

-- Soggy Seth, Portland, Ore.

A: Great question, Soggy Sir. And you’re right, the terms waterproof and water-resistant are plastered all over the hangtags of tents, rain jackets, watches, GPS, and so on.

To help answer this one, I pinged Andrew MacAuley, the product development director at Aquapac (www.aquapac.net), the folks who make those handy waterproof pouches for cameras, electronics and such. When I asked him what’s the difference between waterproof and water-resistant, here’s what he had to say:

“Well, actually, not a lot. It means different things on different products. Most items like electronics, Aquapac cases, etc. use a system called the IP (Ingress Protection) scale; which goes from 1 to 8. IPX1 means that an item is not really protected against water. IPX8 means that you can safely take the item underwater -- although the depth and time that it is safe underwater can vary. A lot of 'waterproof' electronics are IPX7, which means that they will be OK if you accidentally drop them in a stream and get them out immediately. When you talk about tents or clothes, waterproofing is measured on a scale called the Hydrostatic Head. If you take a piece of the material, and put a tube on top of it, the hydrostatic head rating is how much water you can fill in this tube before the pressure and weight of the water pushes through the material. Proper 'waterproof' levels are considered to be 1000mm (25.4 inches) of water, but most decent tents have an HH rating of over 2000mm, and a good waterproof jacket will be around 3000mm+. You need a higher number because the force that rain hits a tent or jacket, especially when it’s windy, can be quite considerable. Meanwhile, watches have an entirely different grading than most other electronics.”

I did a little research and found that only true scuba diving watches can be advertised as waterproof. All other watches must be listed as water-resistant to a specific depth, but you shouldn’t press any function buttons while it’s submerged. As a rule of thumb, watches with water-resistance ratings of 30 to 50 meters are okay for fishing but not suitable for swimming and diving. Watches with water-resistant ratings of 100 meters are fine for swimming and most watersports like paddling, surfing, and snorkeling but NOT scuba diving. You’ll need a true diving watch for that.

So bottom line: before you buy something that’s waterproof or water-resistant, find out exactly what it means for that particular product by checking the fine print in the user’s manual or on the hangtag.

Q. I love mountain bikes but I never go on trails. I think road bikes are too delicate for my street and I never like going too fast. What should I do?

-- Matt On-The-Fence, Pittsford, N.Y.

A. Hey there, Matt. You bring up an interesting question here. First off, good job for identifying the style of bike you like and identifying where you’ll be riding most often. That’s the first and most important step for picking the right bicycle.

You like mountain bikes, and there’s absolutely no problem with riding a mountain bike on the road. I do it all the time. And if you plan on riding on the street exclusively you might consider trading out the big knobby tires that come on most mountain bikes for a pair of smoother, low-profile road slicks or commuter tires. They range from about $15 to $30 per tire at your local bike shop and you can easily put them on yourself. You’ll get a smoother ride with better grip for the hard surfaces of your street. If you ever decide to go off-road, simply switch back to the knobby tires.

If you’re certain you’ll be sticking to the hard stuff forever than you might consider simply going with an urban commuter bicycle with a mountain bike-style frame like the Novara Buzz V Bike ($449; rei.com).

But if you want my bottom line advice, get a mountain bike with a pair of slicks, because as your skills improve on the street I bet you’ll wanna start ripping it up on the trails too.

The T-shirt probably is the most important piece of clothing in a guy’s closet. Besides being comfy and appropriate for most any activity, a T-shirt with a favorite slogan or image on it can say a lot about the guy wearing it.

And now, thanks to Websites like www.cafepress.com, it’s super easy to get creative and design your own t-shirt. You simply log on to the site and upload a digital image (be it a favorite photo, slogan, or a cartoon you drew and scanned to your PC). Then you pick what color, style, and size t-shirt you want to create. You can preview your design and edit it until you’re happy. Then, voila, a week or so later your brand new, custom-made t-shirt shows up in the mail. Prices start around $14.99 for a basic light-colored t-shirt.

And if you're into Boys' Life gear, be sure to check out our online store for great designs on shirts and more!

Q. Why are white gas stoves more versatile than butane, propane, or other canister stoves?

-- Chef Robert, Round Rock, Tex.

A. Thanks for the question, Chef. White gas stoves are indeed more versatile than screw-on canister-type stoves. The main reason is they burn reliably in all weather conditions, whereas canister stoves are typically unreliable in winter weather. When temps approach freezing, the pressurized fuel canisters can lose their pressure and become unusable.

Another thing that makes white gas stoves more versatile is that they operate with refillable fuel bottles that you fill at home with exactly as much gas as you expect to use on your trip. With canister stoves it’s impossible to tell how much fuel is left in a partly used canister, so you always have to bring a couple (added weight) and when the canisters are empty you have to pack them out (dead weight clanking around in your backpack).

White gas is cheaper too. Fuel for white gas stoves is up to 10 times less expensive (especially when you buy it in bulk versus purchasing individual fuel canisters).

Now keep in mind, all of the above does not mean that canister-style stoves are a bad option. They are great, too, and I use one myself on lots of trips. In general, canister stoves are more compact, simpler to operate, and there’s never a danger of fuel spilling or leaking in your pack.

But you’re right -- white gas is more versatile. However, if you’re looking for the ultimate in versatility, check out a multi-fuel stove like the WhisperLite Internationale ($90;www.cascadedesigns.com) which can burn white gas, kerosene, unleaded gasoline that used for cars, and even jet fuel. Now that’s versatility!

Q. Dear Gear Guy, which tent material better handles prolonged exposure to the sun—150-denier oxford polyester or canvas?

--Curious Montana, Port St. Lucie, Fla.

A. Hello Curious. So your last name is Montana, but you’re actually from Florida? Very interesting. The question you posed is interesting too. For the answer, I checked with my friend Chris Pottinger, a tent designer with Big Agnes (www.bigagnes.com). Here’s what he had to say: “Canvas is kind of a general term so it really depends what the tent material is made of. That said, as a rule of thumb regarding resistance to sun exposure, cotton is longer lasting than polyester, and polyester is longer lasting than nylon.”

So, if the tent is made of cotton canvas then it will indeed be more durable to sun exposure than a polyester tent. There you have it, Curious.

Okay, so this one isn’t exactly a piece of gear, but it is something we really, really like. AND it’s free! It’s an online music program called Pandora (www.pandora.com) which is basically like a radio station on the Web that plays only the music YOU like.

Here’s how it works: just type in the name of a band that you dig. Then, the computer will play you another song from another band that sounds similar. Click on the Thumbs Up or Thumbs Down icon to tell Pandora whether you like each song or not and eventually the program will narrow down (and learn) what you like so nearly every song you hear you’ll dig. And did I mention it’s free!

Q. When I'm kayaking, my paddle is always slipping through my hands. Can you help me?

-- Slippery Trey, Covington, Va.

A. As an avid kayaker, I’ve experienced the exact same problem myself. There are a couple things that could be going on here. Lots of different stuff can make the shaft of your paddle slippery, including mud, sunscreen, even grease from your hair. So, your first task is to give the shaft of your paddle a really good cleaning. Do this with water, a tiny bit of dishsoap and a rough sponge.

Once the paddle is free of slippery stuff, make sure your hands are clean before you paddle. I don’t mean wash-your-hands-before-dinner clean. Just make sure there’s no mud or sunscreen on your hands. Every time before paddling, I reach down into the riverbed and grab a handful of pebbles or gritty sand and wash my hands with that. It totally works.

If your paddle is still slipping, you might try rubbing a small amount of wax on the shaft where you grip it. Mr. Zogs Paddle Wax ($1.75; www.nrsweb.com) works fine. Hope that helps!

I have to tell you about my new favorite camping tent that’s not actually a tent. I just returned from a weeklong kayaking trip in Louisiana’s Atchafalaya Basin. It’s the largest swamp in North America — a really wild place with tons of huge cypress trees and water everywhere, but not much dryland for camping. There are plenty of alligators there too, so I was extra keen to get up off the ground at night. My best option for camping was a hammock. I chose the Eagles Nest Outfitters (ENO) OneLink Hammock Shelter System ($200; www.eaglesnestoutfittersinc.com).

Basically it’s a hammock with a slip-on bug net and tarp to keep the rain and dew off while you sleep. The hammock is super easy to set up. Just find two trees about eight feet apart and slip a SlapStrap on each. No need to tie fancy knots. The straps have built in webbing loops so you simply snap each of the hammock’s carabiner clips in place at the preferred height and you’re ready to go. The tarp is easy to attach as well so after a couple nights I was able to pitch the whole thing in less than five minutes. Weighing in at just 4 pounds 4 ounces, the ENO is also lightweight enough for backpacking and you can even chose one pre-treated with InsectShield bug repellant for $10 bucks extra.

Now keep in mind that hammocks are best for warm-weather camping since you don’t have the insulation of the ground to keep you warm during cold nights. However on my trip the weather did get down to near freezing one night, but I just dumped all my clothes into the bottom of the hammock and slept on top of them for added insulation and I was fine.

This was the first time I’d spent multiple nights in a hammock, and I’m here to say it has to be the most comfortable way to camp. No rolling off your sleeping pad. No rocks and sticks poking you from below. No pinched nerves and dead arms. Just a gentle rocking motion lulling you to sleep like a baby.

Q. When I’m camping, I hate having to get up in the middle of the night to go outside and pee. Sometimes it’s too cold or I’m nervous about what I might step on in the dark. What should I do?

-- Anonymous, Tampa, Fla.

A. I have a good solution for you. As you know it’s super important to stay hydrated anytime you’re on an outing. So keep drinking that water. But that also means you’ll likely need to urinate in the middle of the night. Every time I’m camping somewhere cold or someplace where getting out of my sleeping bag at night would be really uncomfortable, I bring along an empty quart-size plastic bottle. I like to use the wide-mouth ones, like an empty Gatorade bottle. When nature calls, I kneel in my sleeping bag, position the bottle just so, and VERY CAREFULLY pee into it. When I’m finished, I screw the top on tightly and sit it outside the tent door.

Make sure you label the bottle appropriately so your buddy doesn’t mistake it for lemon-lime Gatorade.When you’re sharing a tent with someone, it’s a good idea to make sure they’re O.K. with your bathroom plans before just whipping out the old bottle.

Q: I actually don’t have a question. Just wanted to tell fellow Boys’ Life readers that Alps Mountaineering gives all Boy Scouts a 45 percent discount off list price on outdoor equipment on their website.

--Barry the Bargain Hunter, Louisville, KY

A: Everybody loves to save cash on gear. And Barry is exactly right, guys. Alps sells good quality backpacks, tents and sleeping bags and gives Scouts a savings of 45 percent off their normal retail prices. You can check out their stuff at www.alpsmountaineering.com or go straight to their Scouts-only website at www.scoutdirect.com. The good old fashion phone works too, if that’s more your speed: 1-800-344-2577.

They look awfully silly, and the guys might laugh, but you'll be the one smiling at the end of the day after hiking or running in these toed socks. You will be blister-free, with no skin-on-skin rubbing, and you'll find you have better posture and balance when your toes are allowed to work as they were meant to. Take care of your feet, and they'll take care of you.

The Outdoor Series hikers combine Nuwool, nylon and Spandex for a comfortable, durable fit; the Performance Series runners have a high content of Coolmax designed to wick sweat away. $12-$16, www.injinji.com

Q. I have an 8-person tent I got from Wal-Mart a few years ago. It has been fine for camping in the backyard with the family but we are going to a couple of state parks this summer so the convenience of running in the house if it starts to rain is not an option.  The tent boasted "weather-tec" or something like that, basically claiming it will stay dry.  I really don't want to buy a new tent.  How do you think it will fair if it begins to rain?

--Concerned Keith, Chicago, Illinois

A. Hello Keith. Thanks for the good question. Your gut is right on — there’s indeed a good chance that your tent won’t be truly waterproof. Inexpensive tents from stores like Wal-Mart may be just fine for fair weather outings. What they usually lack is durability, weather-proofness and they are often heavier than high-end camping gear.

I hear what you’re saying about not wanting to buy a new one so it’s good to know there are a couple things you can try to make your tent work. First, you could get a basic tarp at the hardware store (probably will cost you less than $15) and hang that above your tent. That way, the tarp shelters your tent and takes the brunt of the rain during a storm.

Second, you could treat your tent with a waterproofer like Nikwax Tent & Gear Solar Proof ($14-$44; www.nikwax.com). Simply pitch your tent, spray it down with a hose, and then cover the entire thing with the Nikwax. For a tent as large as yours, you’ll likely have to use most of the 2.5-liter bottle, which costs about $44 bucks. The Nikwax will boost your tent’s water repellency and prevent the fabric from being damaged by prolonged exposure to the sun. Will it make your Wal-Mart tent ready for an expedition on Everest? Not a chance, but it should get you through a summer of camping fun.

File this one under Strange but Fun. From the maker of some of the best knives on the market, Spyderco, comes the new BaliYo.

At its root, BaliYo is a pen. A good one too: a 4 1/4-inch-long Fisher Space Pen that can write underwater, upside down, in freezing temps, just about anywhere.

What makes it unique are the two weight balanced arms that swing open and enable you to flick open and spin the pen around in your hand. It comes with an instructional DVD to show how to make the pen do flips, aerials, even two-handed tricks. Sound strange? Told you so. But the BaliYo promotes hand-eye coordination, and it’s also kind of fun.

Here's a video from the manufacturer that shows what it can do.

Check out the BaliYo website for the how-to trick videos and you’ll get a better sense of what this thing is all about. $25; www.baliyo.com

Watch as Eagle Scout Jon Almquist, who works for national outdoors retailer REI, shows you how to fit a backpack in this exclusive BL video.

Learn more about picking the perfect backpack in the May 2009 issue of Boys' Life magazine.

Q. I need a new bicycle but I don't know if I should get a mountain bike or a street bike. What are the pros and cons of each type?

-- Confused Carl

A. Dear Confused Carl, good question. I’d say the best way to think of it is this: The mountain bike is a SUV and the road bike is a sports car. Which type of bike is best for you depends mostly on where you plan on riding. Without knowing your answer, my first instinct is to tell you to get a mountain bike. The reason: durability and versatility. Mountain bikes are very durable because they’re designed to handle rough off-road conditions. They have heavy duty gears and parts, a stronger frame (like the bike’s skeleton), and some even have cushy shock absorbing suspensions for smoothing out the bumps. But don’t let the name “mountain” fool you—whether you’re riding on trails or bouncing off curbs around your neighborhood, this versatile type of bike will stand up to all sorts of riding. On the other hand, road bikes are usually

lighter weight with thin frames and skinny tires. They are really fast and agile but definitely not well suited for rough roads. If you have a need for speed, get a road bike. If you wanna ride a little bit of everywhere, buy a mountain bike.

Q. My dad and I go fishing a lot. We used to use PowerBait but we just didn’t catch anything. So we started using mealworms and we caught much more. But the next time we went fishing and the other fishermen were saying the fish were biting the PowerBait! My dad and I love catching trout but we don’t know what bait is best for that?

--Matthew Mealworm, Gillete, New Jersey

A. Hello Mr. Mealworm. Thanks for the question. For this one, I’m going to defer to my buddy Justin Lucas. He’s a 23-year-old pro fisherman from Folsom, California, who fishes for Team National Guard and catches trout and bass that probably weigh as much as you do! Anyway, here’s what Justin had to say:

“That’s a good little question. Throughout most parts of the United States, Berkley PowerBait ($3.50-$10; www.berkley-fishing.com) is

actually, overall, the best trout catcher there is. But, obviously there are times when live bait is going to work a lot better because it’s real. Think about it like this—On certain days you might want to eat a hamburger but someone is trying to feed you a taco and you just don’t want to eat it. Then, there are other days when you want the taco but you’re getting fed the hamburger — and you don’t want to eat that. So you just have to experiment and learn what the fish want each day. I would stick with the PowerBait and live bait like mealworms or night crawlers, but some days they just might want one or the other.

Here’s another tip to help you catch more trout: Let your bait soak more. Instead of reeling it in fast, let your bait sit there longer than the other guys — up to 10 to 20 minutes after each cast. Remember, you’re waiting for the fish to come to you rather than going after the fish.”

Q. What is the best lock-back pocketknife (3- to 4-inch blade) for the money?

--Knifeless Joe, Licking, Mo.

A. Hey Joe. You should be able to get a good quality lock-back that will last many years for about $25 to $40 bucks. One of the best options out there is the Gerber EZ Out ($30; www.gerbergear.com). It’s a simple, strong knife with a 3 1/4-inch blade, solid plastic handle, easy one-handed opening — and it’s made in the USA. Gerber has sold more than 2 million EZ Outs over the past 15 years. Naturally there are lots of other good options out there.

Remember, when looking for a new knife, stick with well known brands like Buck, Kershaw, and Gerber and avoid cheap knockoffs made in China. When shopping for a new lock-back, make sure that when it’s in the open position there’s no movement of the blade. It should feel solid like there’s no chance of it folding on your hand. Hope that helps.

Q. I am looking for a nice backpacking stove that doesn't use too much gas or weigh too much. What can you recommend?

-- Stoveless Steven, Phoenix, Ariz.

A. If you're just getting into backpacking, choose a canister-type stove. These are just small burners that screw on top of butane fuel canisters. They are simple, reliable and some are also very lightweight. These are two of my favorite canister stoves that'll have you cooking in no time:

Mountain Safety Research PocketRocket ($40, www.msrgear.com) One of the most durable ultralight canister stoves on the market, the palm-size PocketRocket weighs just three ounces. It has a small but hot flame and is best for smaller pots.

Brunton Raptor ($61, www.brunton.com) This five-ounce stainless-steel butane canister stove features an automatic lighting system, and though it's super compact, its three fold-out arms can support a surprisingly large pot.

Q. I mostly do warm-weather camping, but sometimes I go on winter camp-outs. I can only afford one sleeping bag, so can you recommend one that would work for both?

-- Sleeping bag-less Seth, St. Louis, Mo.

A. Finding one sleeping bag that can do it all is tough, but I know of a really cool bag that might fit your needs. It's the Mountain Hardwear Flip. It's well named, because each side of this bag is made with a different thickness of synthetic insulation -- one side is rated for mild weather (40 degrees), the other for cold nights (rated to 25 degrees). When it's cold you simply flip the warmer, thicker side up. Warm night? Flip it over with the lighter side on top. At 2 pounds 14 ounces the Flip isn't exactly ultralight, but it's suitable for backpacking, totally comfy and expecially handy since it's like two bags in one. ($100; mountainhardware.com)

In cooperation with the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission, Jetboil has announced a voluntary recall of certain Jetboil Personal and Group Cooking Systems.

Jetboil has used three gas valves (the “A”, “B” and “C” style valves) in the production of its Personal Cooking System (PCS) and Group Cooking System (GCS).

Units with the B style valve, which have been sold since July 10, 2008, are affected. According to Jetboil, “a very limited number of end users” have experienced leaking gas and a fire. No injuries or property damage have been reported by these users.

Other PCS and GCS systems continue to be fully safe and functional. No Helios systems are affected by the recall. For details and to determine if your Jetboil is affected, go to http://www.jetboil.com/recall

Who says skate shoes aren’t for wearing in the wintertime? Whoever it was obviously has never seen the iPath Pro Reed ($75; www.ipath.com). These things are legit suede skate shoes (we road-tested them for days and they worked great) plus they have a cushy padded collar lined with toasty sheepskin.

Q. On winter hikes, my socks always seem to get wet and soggy. How can I prevent that?

-- Soggy Sam, Fort Collins, Colo.

A. Try wearing boots, Sam. Just kidding. Actually, I know exactly what you're talking about. That annoying wetness usually comes from either water and snow or sweaty feet. First, try treating your boots with a spray-on waterproofer like McNett's ReviveX ($7, www.mcnett.com). A simple solution for sweaty feet comes to us from Eagle Scout and elite mountaineer Jeff Mathy. He recommends wearing a thin neoprene or silk liner (about $3) next to your skin, then slipping your foot inside a plastic grocery bag (free). Yup, a grocery bag.

"Sounds weird, but it creates an inexpensive lightweight vapor barrier," Mathy says. (Every time you do this, he cautions, allow your feet to dry for at least 12 hours daily -- so sleep without socks -- to prevent trench foot.) Finally, pull a good quality wool or wool-blend sock atop the plastic bag. Voila, dry feet!

Q. What kind of light should I take if I'm going inside of a cave?

-- Caving Calvin, Rogers, Ark.

A. The short answer, Calvin: three of them. Whenever you enter a cave, you should always, always, always (that means every time!) bring along at least three light sources: one main flashlight plus two backups. You never know what might go wrong underground, and your life depends on having enough light to find your way out. Here's an example of three lights that would be good for caving:

• Petzl Duo LED 5 ($86; en.petzl.com): Waterproof, halogen bulb for illuminating big areas, LED bulbs for close viewing.
• Mini Maglite ($14.99; www.boyslife.org/links/scoutstuff): Small, rugged, durable, runs on 2 AAA batteries.
• Chemical Light Stick ($2.49; www.boyslife.org/links/scoutstuff): Lightweight, waterproof, cheap, gives you several hours of light.

Q. I've been having trouble finding a quality rain suit that does not cost an arm and a leg. Can you help, Gear Guy?

-- Wet Will, Fayetteville, Ga.

A. Dear Wet Willie, um, I mean Will. It is tricky finding a good affordable rain suit. One of my favorite rainwear brands is Helly Hansen (www.hellyhansengear.com). Check out the Mandal Jacket ($30) and the Tvedestrand Bib ($30). If you're not a bib kind of guy, and you should be because bibs keep you drier than pants (think: no rain down your rear), Helly Hansen also has the Flekkefjord Pant ($24). This stuff is what the crab fishermen in Alaska wear. It's coated with PVC polyester, so it's totally waterproof and so durable that you'll grow out of it long before it'll ever wear out.

Q. What is the best hat to hold in the heat while hiking in the snow or really cold weather?

-- Cold Cranium, Issaquah, Wash.

A. Dear Mr. Cranium, you obviously have your thinking cap screwed on tight because you already know we lose lots of precious body heat through our heads. So, keeping your head covered is key. My favorite winter hat is a balaclava. Weird name, but handy design. A balaclava covers your head like a stocking cap but can also be rolled down to cover your neck. When it's really cold, it can even be pulled up over your mouth and nose so the only bit exposed to the elements is your eyes.

Here are two good options:

• Mountain Hardwear Power Stretch Balaclava ($28; www.mountainhardwear.com)
• Seirus Quick Draw Hat ($20; www.seirus.com)

Q. It feels like I'm the only one who doesn't get fish when I go fishing with anyone. How can I make sure I'm not the only one not bringing home fish?

--Fishless Dylan, Indianapolis, Ind.

A. You need some serious angling help, Fishless, so I went to a serious angler for advice. I recently ran into Jimbo Meador, an expert angler with Legacy Paddlesports and former Orvis fishing guide, and asked him your question. Check out this video to learn from the master:

Q. I need to know what you think about Gerber's Liquifusion Hydration line, specifically the Military Reserve Hydration Pack. I admire the size of the reservoir and the large Molle grid. I read that it is made here in the U.S. and it seems like the perfect summer camp daypack once I attach some Maxpedition pouches. All I need to know is your opinion on initial quality and your take on its usefulness for my chosen application.

--Thirsty Sims, Lubbock, Tex.

A. Hey there, Thirsty. First things first, I have indeed tried Gerber’s Liquifusion hydration bladders before, and they work fine. I like that they’re made of a semi-rigid plastic, the same sort of stuff used to make gallon milk jugs. The bladder keeps its shape whether it’s empty or full, so it’s easier to refill. And it conforms to the shape of your back so it won’t slosh around in your pack so much. Finally, the whole rig is dishwasher safe so it’s a bit simpler to clean than Camelbak-style bladders.

But as for using that specific Military Reserve Hydration Pack as a daypack, I’d say: nah, you could do better. That pack is small and designed more for cycling or simply to carry your water. You could add Maxpedition pouches but I think your best choice would be to just buy the bladder (I saw it online for about $20) and then slip it inside a larger pack that would be much better suited as a summer camp daypack.

Finally, I’ve been told by a Gerber representative that they’ve discontinued their hydration line. It’s not a big deal but that would explain why you’ve found that pack priced so low (about $45 online). Hope that helps!

Q. I play soccer and football. I sometimes wear my cleats six days a  week. Is there any way to rid my equipment (cleats, shin guards, shoulder pads, etc.) of that everlasting smell of fresh body odor?

-- Raffi the Odorous, Niagara Falls, N.Y.

A. Dear Stinky…uh, I mean Raffi. I’m actually a pretty athletic guy too — and, as it goes with the territory, equally stinky. So I hear you on the smelly gear.

There are a couple of things you can do. First, never leave your pads and cleats cooped up in your gear bag after practice. When you do that, tiny microbes grow on your gear, and the smell can be lethal. So, the first step to eliminating odors is properly drying out your stuff. As soon as you get home from practice, set your pads out to dry. Hang them. Put them on a drying rack. Whatever. If your cleats are wet, stuff them with old newspaper.

Once everything is dry, get a spray bottle of Febreze Antimicrobial ($5-$6; febreze.com). Give it all a good spray. Febreze does a good job of neutralizing odors and killing the microbes that cause smells. It’s a temporary fix — and definitely not a cure-all — but that should help cut down on your stench. Good luck!

Q. I need a pair of good waterproof snow boots that don't cost a  fortune. Can you help, Gear Guy?

-- Bootless Garrett, Ketchum, Idaho

A. I can indeed, Mr. Bootless. You know, I figure every guy should own a pair of good waterproof snow boots—unless, of course, you live somewhere like Miami. The good news is there are plenty of affordable options.

Although you can find all sorts of boots made with so-called “waterproof” leather or fabrics, for truly staying dry in all conditions I prefer tall rubber-style boots like the Kamik Hunter ($46; kamik.com). These are 14.5 inches tall with aggressive soles and removable insulated liners and an adjustable nylon collar at the top of the boot to keep out the snow and slush. Best of all, since they’re less than $50 you’ll have plenty of money left over for that new sled you’ve always wanted!

Q. I am looking to buy a kayak but there are so many possibilities. Which one should I pick? Help me!

-- Kayakless Cameron, Sandown, N.H.

A. You’re right Cameron, the number of kayaks on the market can be dizzying. Before picking a boat, it’s important to consider where you’ll be paddling.

If you plan to kayak mostly in lakes, slow moving rivers and mellow seas near the beach, then you’ll want a open cockpit boat that’s around 10 to 12 feet long, about 27 to 30 inches wide or so, stable and comfortable to paddle. A good choice would be the new Old Town Vapor 10 XT ($489; oldtowncanoe.com) or a sit-on-top style kayak like the Heritage Redfish 10 ($559; heritagekayaks.com) which is a great choice for fishing too.

If paddling whitewater rivers is your goal then you’ll need a shorter, narrower, more responsive river runner that’s designed to be rolled back up (a.k.a. the “Eskimo roll”) when you flip over in the rapids. One of the coolest new options for kids (who weigh up to 120 lbs.) is the Jackson Side Kick ($799; jacksonkayak.com). It’s 6 feet 7 inches long, about 22 inches wide, and is a stable, predictable kayak—perfect for learning to run whitewater.

Q. I’m a first year Scout and this summer my troop went to Camp La-No-Che in Paisley, Fla. I took the Climbing merit badge and soon realized my tennis shoes were not suitable to scale the climbing wall. I left La-No-Che with a partial completion for that badge. I’d like to buy some climbing shoes before I attempt the climb again. Can you recommend good ones?

--Slippin’ Jacob, Riverview, Fla.

A. Climbing in sneakers definitely makes for a slippery slope. So you do need some climbing shoes if you intend on giving the sport a serious shot.

To help you with some guidelines on how to buy your first pair of climbing shoes, I called up my buddy Kris Versteegen, a spokesman for La Sportiva climbing gear and former head of Inner Peaks Climbing Center in Charlotte, N.C. Here’s his fit advice: “Some longtime climbers will tell you to find a shoe that is so small that your foot barely fits, and then go a half size smaller. This is bogus. In the 1980’s and 90’s, climbing shoes used to stretch a lot, so people sized them down until they were excruciatingly painful in hopes of a 'custom fit' when the leather stretched around their feet.

"Today, climbing shoes don’t stretch nearly as much as they used to thanks to innovative lasts, higher-quality leather and high-tech lining materials. So, you can size your shoe so that it’s snug, but not painful. A shoe with to-the-toe lacing can help customize the fit and feel of the shoe, while a slipper or velcro shoe is much easier to get on and off. In a lace-up, all of your toes should be touching the end of the shoe, but they shouldn’t be bent too much. In a slipper or velcro shoe, you can’t cinch down the laces, so size it should fit slightly tighter than a lace-up. Be careful going too small though, you should still be able to walk around without any pain.”

Here are two Guy Gear picks for good all-around shoes designed with beginning climbers in mind:

• Mad Rock New Phoenix ($70; madrockclimbing.com)
• La Sportiva Cliff ($90; sportiva.com)

Q. How can I make my first-aid kit small enough to fit inside a fanny pack but still have all the stuff I need?

-- Compact Kevin, Junction, Tex.

A. Hmmm, that can be a little tricky, Kevin. But here's what I'd do: First, head to the kitchen and snag a quart-size plastic freezer bag. You know, like a Ziploc. You won't be able to include everything on our list of essentials, so pick the things you think you'll need the most. (Click here to see our list.) Roll the excess air out of the bag, seal it and maybe even throw a strip of duct tape around it to keep it as compact as possible. Good for you, Kevin, for being prepared!

Q. When and how should I sharpen my pocketknives?

-- Dull Dale, Colts Neck, N.J.

A. How often you sharpen your pocketknife depends mostly on how often you use it. Basically when the blade feels dull to the touch or if it starts to feel awkward cutting with your knife, it's time to do a little sharpening.

Click here to check out our online video tutorial on how to sharpen a knife.

Q. I have a carabiner that says it can hold 21 kN. I know that's the amount of shock the clip can take, but what's the maximum constant weight that could be applied to it?

-- Pensive Peno, Baldwinville, Mass.

A. I asked climbing equipment expert Bill Belcourt from Black Diamond to tackle this one. Here's what he says: kN stands for kilonewton, a measurement of force. Stamped on the side of all carabiners you'll find a kN number that tells you how much force your climbing gear can withstand. This is important because carabiners are climbing safety equipment and they must be strong enough to handle the force (and weight) of someone falling. When an average-size man falls 60 feet, the peak force on a carabiner at an anchor point on the rock stopping his fall is going to be about 9.1 kN.

Now that we have that out of the way, let's talk about the maximum constant weight. That's tricky, mainly because your carabiner isn't rated for a maximum working load. It's designed to take forces, not lift heavy things. That said, do a little math and you can easily figure out the pound equivalent of your carabiner's kN rating. In this case, 21 kN x 225 lbs. (equal to one kN) = 4,725 lbs. That doesn't mean your carabiner can repeatedly lift something that weighs that much. You might be able to lift a truck once, but it would permanently damage your carabiner.

Remember, when you're shopping for a carabiner, buy only those made by reputable companies (such as Black Diamond, Petzl, Metolius, etc.) and make sure it has a kN rating of at least 18.

Q. I'm going on a camping trip with my troop, but my hunting knife broke. I see a lot of different hunting knives advertised. How do I know which one to buy?

-- Knifeless Neil, Summerville, S.C.

A. The best type of knife for camping trips -- and most any other outdoor activity, for that matter -- is a short, fixed-blade knife with a beefy handle.

Folding pocketknives can fold up on your hand while cutting. Not fixed blades. And remember: When it comes to blades, bigger isn't always better. Avoid blades longer than four inches. A small, sharp blade can cut just as well as a long one, but it's safer to handle and easier to maneuver in tight spots. With a good fixed blade you'll be set for most anything the outdoors can throw at you -- whittling, cutting, notching, butchering, filleting, even speading peanut butter.

Here are two of my favorite fixed-blade knives:

• Buck Diamondback Guide ($27; http://www.buckknives.com/)

  This knife has a 3 1/8-inch-long drop-point blade with a texturized rubber handle.

• SOG Field Pup ($60; http://www.sogknives.com/)

  A four-inch stainless steel straight-edge blade with an easy-to-grip handle and nylon sheath.

Q: My dad gave me an old Marmot sleeping bag, and it has two small holes in it and some down feathers are coming out. The sleeping bag works just fine, but how do I stop the feathers from coming out?

—Cold Coleman, Reno, Nev.

A: Thanks for the question, Cold. First off, good for you for reusing your dad’s old sleeping bag. A good bag can last for decades if you take care of it.

As for your escaping feathers problem, I called my buddy George Farkas over at McNett, a company known for its gear-care and -maintenance products. Here’s what he had to say: Seam Grip ($7; www.rei.com ) makes an excellent 'no-sew' patch on small holes and tears.

For pinholes just use a toothpick to apply a very small dab to cover the hole and about 2 mm beyond.

For larger holes, cut a small piece of fabric (such as some nylon from the lining of an old retired jacket). Next, shape the patch with scissors to be about 3 mm bigger than the hole in all directions. Then apply Seam Grip all along the outer edge of the patch (at least 3 mm in from the edges). Apply the patch to cover the hole and leave it laying flat overnight. Once it’s good and dry, the patch will be permanent and should survive laundering when you wash the bag.

For the sewn seams, apply a very minimal amount of Seam Grip in a thin line along the stitching and that’ll provide an easy and permanent fix.

Q. Our family takes a vacation to the beach every summer. I've been boogie-boarding for the past several years, but now I want to try surfing. I know you can rent surfboards, but I want one of my own. Any advice?

-- Stoked Stephen, Raleigh, N.C

A. Gnarly question, dude. Surfboard rentals at most beaches typically cost about $25 to $30 a day. So it might make more sense to buy one since you should be able to get a good used surfboard for about $200 either in a surf shop or online at eBay or craigslist.org.

Here's what to look for in a starter board: The longer, wider and thicker the board, the easier it'll be to stand up on. Surfboards in the seven- to nine-foot-long range are perfect for the average teen.

Unless you're an advanced surfer, try the INT Semi-Long (intsoftboards.com). This eight-footer is covered on the top and sides with soft foam so you can't ding it (or your head). Best of all, the bottom of the board is made of hard fiberglass resin so it's fast and rides almost exactly like a regular hard-shell fiberglass surfboard. A new one runs about $450, but it's super durable so you can expect to be surfing it for many years to come.

Q. I feel like a mosquito magnet. Seems like every time I go on outings with my troop, I'm the only one who gets bitten. What can I do? Help!

-- Badly Bitten Ben, Smyrna, Ga.

A. Luckily there are some things you can do. First, wear long pants, a long-sleeve shirt and a hat. If the mosquitoes can't find your skin, then it's harder for them to bite you. There's even clothing with a built-in mosquito repellent called permethrin. Try Ex Officio's Buzz Off long-sleeve tee ($34; boyslife.org/links/exofficio) and Buzz Off Air Strip pants ($75). I tested this stuff in the Yukon during an expedition recently where the mosquitoes were big enough to carry off a housecat -- and it works!

Wear light colors, too, as mosquitoes seem more attracted to dark colors, and lay off scented shampoos and soaps because some bugs love the smell.

As for insect repellents, look for products that contain either DEET or picaridin as the active ingredient.

Q. My mountain bike is totally off gear. I put it on gear number 4 and it is on number 6. What do I do?

-- Rollin' Ryan, Reno, Nev.

A. Does it shift through all the gears? If it does, then don't worry about the numbers aligning. A real mountain biker doesn't have time to pay attention to the numbers. It's all about the “feel” in his legs.

In other words, let the strain on your legs guide your shifting, not what you think is the right gear number. You should shift to maintain a cadence of around 80-100 revolutions per minute (count the number of times your right knee goes up).

If the bike doesn't shift easily thru all the gears, that's another story. Click here to see our online derailleur adjustment.

If the adjustment barrel doesn't work, take your bike to a bike shop soon.

Q. I go biking with my friends to the beach all the time and I always keep a repair kit and a cell phone handy, but is there anything else I should be carrying, like a Swiss army knife or the like?

-- Christian the Cyclist, Bronx, N.Y.

A. Way to think ahead, Christian. That’s the first step to making sure that your bike ride doesn’t turn into a long hike home. To fill you in on the best stuff to carry I called up my buddy Adam Craig, nine-time national champion mountain biker. Here’s his advice for you: “I never head out on a bike ride — even if I'm just riding down to the beach — without three key pieces of equipment: a spare inner tube, a mini-pump to use on the tube, and a bike-specific combo wrench. The wrench should include allen keys, screwdriver and a chain repair tool. You can get a seat-bag to hold all of these things or just put them in your pocket like I do.”

Q. Where is the best place to get a bike?

-- Jack B., Bowling Green, Ky.

A. In my opinion, J.B., the only place to buy a new bicycle is at a local bike shop. These are places that specialize in bikes and have knowledgeable sales people, great quality stuff and generally excellent support. If you go to an LBS -- as local bike shops are known in the cycling world -- you know you'll get the best bike for your size, riding style and budget. It might not be the cheapest bike, but in the long run it will be a better value. Sure, you could go to the local superstore and pick up a cheap bike off the rack. But it won't last nearly as long or be nearly as enjoyable as a custom fit from your LBS.

Q. What’s the best gear for fishing in rivers for catfish?

— Adam the Angler, Fox River Grove, Ill.

A. Now that’s the perfect summertime question. To answer it, I called my buddy Jimbo Meador, a legendary fishing guide from Point Clear, Ala. Here’s what he had to say:

“I grew up catching catfish on limb lines. Just find some low hanging tree limbs that hang right out over the river. Tie one or more lines on the limb and bait the hooks with cut bait. Cut up fish, eel, crawfish, or even cheese will work.

"If there’s current in the river put a little weight on your line, like some splitshot. Then let it sit. When you see the limb shaking you know you’ve got a catfish.

"I’ve caught plenty of catfish on a pole and line but you catch them way better at night, and with the limb line you can set your lines then be off doing something else while you’re catching fish -- like maybe even sleeping. Then you can wake up to catfish and grits!”

Q: I want to get a Olympus SP-500 Ultra Zoom but whatever website that I look at they are always to expensive or I can’t find them.

— Two-Tone Travis, West Point, Va.

A: Your choice for a camera is a good one, Triple T. The SP-500 has a 10X zoom and a feature few non-pro digital cameras have: raw mode. The camera creates a “raw” file that is similar to the “negative” that film cameras produce. These raw images have to be processed in photo software, so it’s not always convenient and quick if you’re looking for speedy uploads.

Part of the reason you’re having problems finding your camera is that it’s no longer made. Cameras, like computers, are constantly being improved and updated. The updated version is the SP-550 Ultra Zoom, about $350.

An excellent camera that is similar is the Panasonic Lumix DMC-FZ8. It has a “street” cost of $240. If you’re looking for a smaller point-and-shoot type digital you might look at the Canon PowerShot SX100 IS at $220 or the Nikon Coolpix P60 at $230. The Panasonic model has raw mode; the Canon and Nikon models do not.

A good website for researching digital cameras is Digital Photography Review, www.dpreview.com.

I prefer to buy my digital equipment from on-line camera stores that have been in business for many years and that treat the customer right if there are any questions, problems or returns. Buying from cheap on-line sources may or may not work. Sometimes the prices are quite low but such items as lens caps, instruction manuals and even batteries don’t come with the camera. Be extra aware when shopping online.

Last weekend my dad took me to the local outdoors store, but we both couldn't believe how expensive camping stuff is. Please help! Where can I get good outdoor equipment without paying huge prices?

- Sticker-Shocked Steve, San Diego, Calif.

Dear Sticker, we sympathize. Outdoor gear can indeed be really expensive. Luckily you have options.

On the Web, there are a handful of stores that sell quality brand-name camping gear and outdoor clothing at reduced prices. Basically these sites buy discontinued gear and overstocks from manufacturers then sell it direct to you at super-cheap prices. The color and size choices are often limited an you don't get the face-to-face advice you do from your local outdoors store, but if you look around you should be able to find what you need.

Here are a few of the most well-established online stores:

• Sierra Trading Post
• Northern Mountain Supply
• Campmor
• REI Outlet
• Steep and Cheap

Also, instead of always sticking with brand-name stuff, consider buying the "house brand" from these companies.

Much of the gear from the big brand names is made with the exact same fabrics and materials in the very same factories. Often the main difference is simply the trendy label that's slapped on the thing.

• REI
• L.L. Bean
• Eastern Mountain Sports

And, as always, a great source for BSA-approved gear and clothing is the BSA's own supply catalog, found at www.boyslife.org/links/scoutstuff.

Finally, check out eBay. There's plenty of gently used outdoor gear up for auction there.

Happy bargain hunting.

I need a new backpack. What's better: Internal or external frame?

- Confused Carl, Aptos, Calif.

Dear Confused, you must be a mind reader because thousands of other guys are wondering this same thing. Then again, if you really were a mind reader you wouldn't need to ask me questions because you'd already know exactly what I was thinking, right?

I digress.

So, backpacking packs come in two types. External frames packs are those with a framework on the outside. These old-school-style packs are the best choice if you'll be hiking mostly on groomed trails carrying lots of weight. They're especially good at transferring the load so you can hike in a more comfortable upright stance. They're also about half the cost of an internal frame pack, which has its support hidden inside like a skeleton.

Internal frame packs are usually more form-fitting, so they are better for guys who'll be hiking rugged trails that require freedom of movement and balance. Most internal frame packs have one huge compartment with a couple of zippered access points, whereas external frame packs usually have lots of smaller compartments that make organization easier. You can also easily attach extra gear - such as a sleeping bag or fishing rod - to the frame.

Which type of pack is better is really up to you and your needs.

What is the best winter jacket for hiking and at the best price?

Chilly Billy, Pipersville, Pa.

Well, Chilly, the short answer is there isn't one best jacket that does it all. Buy a layering system. That way you can bundle up when it's cold and rainy, then peel off the layers when the sun comes out or when you're hiking really hard.

Start with a fleece vest for warmth. Something like the Columbia Cathedral Peak is a good choice ($35; www.boyslife.org/links/columbia or 503-985-4000). This should fit snug; wear it over your long underwear top.

Next, you'll want a softshell jacket. Softshells are made of stretchy nylon that's windproof and water-resistant. One of the best values I know of is the REI Neo ($99; www.boyslife.org/links/rei or 1-800-426-4840). It'll get you through 90 percent of weather conditions - everything except a full-on downpour.

For that, you'll want to throw on your third layer: a waterproof outershell jacket like the Marmot PreCip ($99; www.boyslife.org/links/marmot or 1-888-357-3262). A poncho from www.boyslife.org/links/scoutstuff would work, too (and be cheaper), but jackets like the PreCip are breathable so you won't get sticky and sweaty.

When I go camping I often have trouble sleeping. I toss and turn and always end up rolling off my sleeping pad. What can I do to sleep better?

Ian the Insomniac, San Jose, Calif.

A. Dear Sleepless in San Jose, have you tried duct-taping yourself to your sleeping pad? That'd work, but it's a little tricky getting out when you have to pee in the middle of the night.

Here's some other advice:

My friends at Therm-a-Rest told me that many people tend to overinflate their sleeping pads. Blowing it up bigger will actually cause you to roll off. So once it's inflated, your best bet is to lie on it, then open the valve briefly to let a little air out -- that way the pad conforms to your body.

You can also make the top of your pad non-slip by using a tube of Seam Grip to draw lots of tiny urethane dots or a couple of big squiggles on the top of your pad. Puff paints will work fine, too.

One of my favorite solutions is the Big Agnes Encampment ($159; www.boyslife.org/links/bigagnes) -- it's a 15-degree-rated synthetic bag that comes with a built-in sleeping pad sleeve. Just slip the sleeping pad in and you can roll around all night long and never roll off your pad!

My tent leaks! Water runs through the rainfly! What should I do?

-- Damp Dan, Simpsonville, S.C.

A. Dear Soggy Sir, there could be a couple of different things going on that could make your tent so leaky.

First, if you fail to properly stake out your rainfly, it'll just collect the rainwater and conveniently channel it inside your tent. So always keep the rainfly tight with the guy lines taut.

Another good idea would be to re-waterproof your fly. With wear and tear and time, all tents eventually lose their ability to repel water.

Luckily it's easy -- and cheap! -- to rejuvenate it. Start with a tube of Seam Grip (about $7). Put your rainfly on top of your tent inside out and carefully reseal all the seams. While you're at it, apply Seam Grip along the inside perimeter of your tent's floor, too. Then flip your rainfly over, pitch it properly and spray it with a silicone waterproofer like McNett's Thunder Shield (also about $7). Do all this and you'll be Dry Dan from here on out.

What's the best way to light a camp stove without getting too big of a flare-up? I have an MSR WhisperLite.

-- Phil the Fireball, Johnstown, Pa.

A. Good question, Fireball. For this one we turned to MSR's Michelle Vela, who spent three years in the stove repair department learning every inch of the WhisperLite. She says: "The best way to start a stove without a big flare-up has everything to do with how much fuel you initially let flow into the priming cup at the bottom of the stove."

Here's how:

1. Turn the control valve on the fuel pump until you can hear the sound of gas.
2. Then, shut the valve off. The fuel you heard will be enough to flow through the fuel line and into your priming cup.
3. Light the fuel to prime your stove.
4. When the flame begins to die down, slowly crank open the control valve.
5. Once the stove is heated and running, you can turn the control valve on full blast.

I need a hoodie for our next camp-out, and I was wondering what would be the best options?

-- Underdressed Eric, Elmhurst, Ill.

A. Good question, Eric. Though we've seen lots of guys on outings wearing all-cotton hoodies, if that kind of jacket gets wet with rain or sweat, it'll provide you about as much warmth as a soggy paper bag. Hoodies made of 100% polyester fleece are the best choice. Unlike cotton, these materials wick sweat and moisture away from your body and keep you warm even when wet.

Here are three good choices:

• REI Hoodie, $30 kids' sizes, $50 men's sizes, www.boyslife.org/links/rei
• Horny Toad Joe, $76, www.boyslife.org/links/hornytoad
• Patagonia Micro D-Luxe Hoody, $75, www.boyslife.org/links/patagonia

How tall should a walking stick be?

-- Walking Wyatt, El Paso, Tex.

A. First thing to consider is how you'll be using your stick. If you plan to hike with it, look for a tall and straight stick. Here's a good rule on sizing: Standing with your arms at your side, the stick should be about 6 or 8 inches taller than your elbow. Pick a longer stick if you'll be tackling steep terrain. If you're really just planning on walking with your stick, a shorter one will do. Pick a stick that comes to right around your waist.

Click here to find plans to make your own walking stick.

How do you keep pots from your mess kit from turning black when using them over a fire?

-- Seared Sandi in Hamburg, N.Y.

A: Don't cook over a fire! Just kidding -- sort of. Actually, cooking over a camp stove is the best way to avoid blackened pots. Plus it's more efficient and better for the environment. That said, we asked Mike Glavin of GSI Outdoors Inc., which makes some of the best camp pots, for tips on keeping your pots clean when cooking over campfires: "Rub bar soap on the pots before use, and try to keep your pots on a coal-bed, away from open flames. They will still get sooty, but the soap helps keep the soot from sticking -- allowing for easier cleanup.

I have been saving up for a digital camera that I can bring on camp-outs. I have been looking for a while but am not sure what to buy and what I will really need. If I were to buy a camera it would need to be capable of going underwater and capable of falling and taking a beating. I am looking forward to doing more advanced things in Scouts but want to be able to show my family and friends. I have been struggling with this for a while and came to you since I know you will point me in the right direction.

—Sean the Shutterbug, Madison, NJ

A: Hey Sean. First off, you’re not alone: There are so many cool new digital cameras on the market these days it can be overwhelming indeed.

So before you buy, start by taking a look at our Guy Gear buyers guide here.

From what you told me in your email—especially the bit about needing a camera that’s capable of going underwater—you’ve really narrowed down your choices.

A good option is the new Pentax Optio W30 ($300; 1-800-877-0155 or www.h20camera.com). It has a 7.1-megapixel resolution, lots of cool automatic photo modes, and it’ll handle a dunking down to a depth of 10 feet. It’s also small enough to tuck in your pocket while hiking, and sturdy enough to handle a beating—especially when you protect it with the optional slip-on rubber cover.

If $300 is out of your budget, check out the Optio W20—it’s basically the same camera, just an older model. One of my buddies is a professional photographer and it’s the camera he uses when he doesn’t want to lug around all of his camera gear. You can find it at sites like Amazon.com for about $240.

How should I purify my drinking water when I’m on a backpacking trip? What’s the easiest and cheapest way?

--Thirsty Tom, Dallas, Tex.

A: What’s up, Tom? You mean you don’t dig slurping down protozoans and cryptosporidium? We don’t blame you. Those are just fancy names for nasty critters that can grow in water and make you very sick.

Luckily clean water isn’t too tough to ensure.

Your best bet for short day hikes is to simply bring your drinking water from home.

For longer trips, there are a few basic ways to make sure your drinking water is always good to go. Boiling water over a stove or campfire is a simple solution. Once it comes to a roiling boil (when ½-inch bubbles are rising from the bottom of the pot) then it’s clean. Good for cooking, but it takes a while and if you plan on drinking it you’ll have to wait until it cools down.

Another good option is filtering your water with a handheld portable filter. Most require you to pump the water slowly through a series of screens and filters that remove dangerous bacteria and viruses. Basically, dirty water goes in, clean water comes out—ready to drink. These filters can be expensive (from $50 to $150) but they are reliable and simple to use.

Finally, there’s chemical treatment. Listen up, Tom, because this is probably the easiest and cheapest route to safe drinking water. Just pop a tablet or two (like Potable Aqua, $6.50 for 50; or Katadyn MicroPur, 20 tabs for $9) into your jug of water and within about 20 minutes it’ll have killed all the nasty gunk and be ready to drink. Some people complain these tablets leave a bitter taste in the water but that’s nothing a little sports drink mix can’t disguise.

Want to learn more about water purification? Check out the BSA Fieldbook, pages 124-125.

My hiking boots smell terrible. Is there anything I can do to take care of that?

- Smelly Steve, Knoxville, Tenn.

A. Try taking a shower, Steve. No, seriously, keeping your feet clean is key. And wear only socks made of a wool and polyester blend that will wick moisture away from your feet. Powders like cornstarch and baking soda can also help keep your feet dry and less sweaty.

As for your boots, we asked Peter Sachs of LOWA Boots for some advice. Here's what he had to say:

"Most hiking boots have removable insoles. Take those out and wash them with a mild detergent, but rinse them really well so you don't get suds the next time you hike in the rain. Let them air dry. It's also O.K. to fill your shoes with water and rinse them out. This will actually enhance the boot's life by getting rid of the salts from your body's sweat. To dry them out, stick newspaper inside. That'll help pull moisture from the lining. Finally, borrow some dryer sheets from your mom and stuff those inside your boots overnight."

The wheels on my skateboard aren't spinning well anymore. Is there anything I can do to fix them or do I have to buy new wheels?

Slow Joe, Tampa, Fla.

We feel your pain, Slow. We have the same problem, so we asked our friend Andy Macdonald, eight-time world champion skateboarder, for the lowdown on your slow down:

"New wheels are not going to help in the least if your wheels aren't spinning. Chances are you just have to clean and lubricate your bearings. Remove your wheel and pop out the bearings with the edge of your axle. Bones Bearings pretty much set the standard in the skateboarding world as far as bearings go. They recommend picking up a Bones Bearings Cleaner Unit at your local skate shop ($15), but a clean plastic yogurt cup and a few cotton swabs will work, too.

"You'll need to remove the bearing shields if your bearings have them. Just poke them out with a paper clip. Then soak your bearings in acetone, nail-polish remover or rubbing alcohol. Spin them dry and make sure all the dust and dirt are out. Now you've removed all the dirt as well as all the lubricant from your bearings. It's important to use a silicone-based lubricant. WD40 or others like it will dry out your bearings and attract dust and dirt. You can pick up a bottle of Bones Speed Cream at the skate shop, or try some Prolong from the auto parts store. It doesn't take much, and the excess will just spin out when you replace your shields, pop your bearings back in your wheels and start shredding. Skate safe and enjoy your new-found speed."