• Complete pinewood derby guide
• 100 cool Pinewood Derby car photos of 2010
• Click here to see 900 more pinewood derby photos
• Click here to submit a picture of your car
• Read about secrets to make your car go faster
• Watch video of a super-fast pinewood derby track
• Play BL‘s new pinewood derby game

When the race is over, enter the winner’s circle by building this display for your pinewood derby or model car.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED

• Tape measure
• Ruler
• Saw
• Lumpy rock
• Screwdriver
• Wood screws
• Hammer
• Narrow chisel
• Scissors
• Utility Knife (Optional)
• Wood glue
• 3/4″ x 10″ x 10 1/2″ board
• 3/4″ x 3 1/2″ x 10 1/2″ board
• 12″ x 12″ cork board
• 1/2″ x 2″ x 9″ wood strip (optional)
• 1/2″ x 1″ x 9″ wood strip (optional)
• Some black paint and white paint
• Paint brush

WHAT YOU’LL DO

1. With the help of an adult, cut out the two boards and whack the small board with a rock. This will make the board rough like asphalt.

2. Chisel out four shallow depressions for the car’s wheels to sit in.

3. Glue and screw the two boards together using the three screws. Paint the whole thing black, or any color you like.

4. Use scissors to carefully cut the cork board into 1 1/2″ squares. Or, with an adult’s help, you can cut the cork with a utility knife.

5. Paint half the corkboard squares black and the other half white.

6. Glue the cork squares to the back of the display.

7. You can place or pin whatever you want on the completed stand. Display it on a flat surface or hang it on the wall.

HOW TO MAKE WALL MOUNTING BRACKETS FOR YOUR DISPLAY

You can use this trick to securely mount almost any heavy, flat object to a wall.

Cut the 1/2″ x 2″ x 9″ wood strip lengthwise at a 45-degree angle. Mount one piece about 1″ below the top of the back of the display and the other to the wall as shown. Attach the 1/2″ x 1″ x 9″ wood strip about 1″ from the bottom of the back of the display. The display will then slide firmly onto the wall.

Make a photo display
July 1989

With a little woodworking skill, you can display your photos in a collage that can be hung on a wall for everyone to enjoy.

How to make a folding camp lantern
March 1951

Here’s a new item you might add to your list of lightweight equipment — a compact folding lantern.

How to make a periscope
January 1972

Did you ever wish you were a foot taller so you could look over a wall or fence, or be able to see more at a parade? With this easy-to-make periscope, you can.

Temporary Snow Shoes
January 1960

You can follow the example of the Indians and trappers of the far north, when they are caught short in a heavy snow storm. They make emergency shoes.

Dream On
September 1997

Troubled by nightmares? Hang a Native-American dreamcatcher by your bed and you’ll be sleeping soundly.

Primitive technology expert Dan Coates suggests starting with the turkey call (or yelper). That way, if you mess up, you can use those bones for the beads and try again with the other set of wing bones.

TURKEY BONE CALL (OR YELPER)

Take this bird caller out in the field to lure wild turkeys. Use it to imitate different turkey calls or yelps, which you can hear by clicking here.

What You’ll Need

• Turkey bones
• Hacksaw or coping saw
• Stiff wire or wooden skewers
• Dish detergent
• Saucepan
• 3% hydrogen peroxide
• Knife
• Leather lace
• Sandpaper
• Glue
• Pencil or fine-tip market

What You’ll Do

1. Take the three largest wing bones as shown to the right.

2. Add one teaspoon of dish detergent and the bones into a saucepan of water. Boil for about an hour, rinse and let cool.

3. While the bones are still wet, saw the ends off the wing bones.

4. Use the wire or skewers to clean out as much marrow as possible. Scrape the outside of the bones with a knife. Boil again as in Step 2. You can brighten the bones by soaking them overnight in 3% hydrogen peroxide. (DO NOT use bleach, which will weaken the bones.) Rinse the bones, and let them dry completely.

5. Sand and shape the bones so they fit snugly inside each other.

6. Glue the yelper together.

7. Use the leather lace to make a lanyard for carrying the yelper around your neck. You can tie the lanyard to the yelper using a whipping knot.

How to Use the Yelper

Hold the turkey caller down like a recorder. Suck on the small end, making a short, smooching sound. The sound you’ll hear is a “yelp,” not “gobble-gobble-gobble.”

TURKEY BONE NECKLACE

What You’ll Do

Choose two vertebrae from the back bones and the three largest wing bones. Follow steps 2 through 4 above. The only difference is you’ll be cutting several necklace beads as shown.

Sand the two vertebrae flat, glue them together and set aside to dry. Clean and sand all the necklace pieces, and slide them onto a length of string or leather lace. To keep smaller-diameter beads from sliding into larger ones, tie an overhand knot between beads.

Using your knife, carefully scratch your initials or a pattern into the bone beads. Color with pencil or marker and rub off excess, leaving a tint inside the scraping, which will make it look like scrimshaw. Seal with a thin layer of white glue.

Get a parent or guardian’s permission and help before starting.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED (makes one pair)

• 1 six-ounce can of CPVC clear cement
• 2 pieces of ¾-inch hot/cold CPVC pipe, each 10 feet long (Although they look alike, CPVC piping will work better than PVC because CPVC tends to be a bit more flexible and less likely to crush. Schedule 80 is recommended.)
• 4 ¾-inch CPVC pipe tees (they’re shaped like the letter “T”)
• 20 45-degree-angle CPVC elbows (they’re shaped like elbows)
• 200 feet of ¼-inch hollow braid poly rope
• Bungee cords, rope, Velcro or other materials to hold snowshoe to foot.

TOOLS

• Yard stick or measuring tape
• Hand saw, hack saw or PVC pipe-cutting tool
• File or sand paper
• Clamp vise or an extra set of hands
• Flat work surface

WHAT YOU’LL DO

1. Cut 10-foot-long pipes to the following lengths. (You should end up with 26 cut pieces of pipe.)

2. Using a file or sand paper, deburr — or smooth — the cut edges.

3. On a flat work surface, start building the front section of the shoes following these steps. The shoe is built in two halves; start with the front half and glue the pieces in place as you go.

Front Half:

1. Put one 45-degree-angle piece of piping on each end of one 4-inch piece of pipe.

2. Put a 3-inch pipe into the open end of both angles.

3. Put another 45-degree angle on the open end of each 3-inch piece.

4. Put a 1 1/4 inch pipe into both angles.

5. Put 45-degree angle pieces onto the 1 1/4 inch pipes. Angle should face up slightly.

6. Put one 6-inch piece into each of the angles.

7. Put one T-angle joint onto the end of each 6-inch piece, then connect with 8-inch pipe.

8. Set this half aside so the glue can harden.

Remember to continue gluing the connections as you go!

Back Half:

1. Put 45-degree angles on one end of each 18-inch pipe.

2. Put a 3-inch piece into each angle.

3. Put 45-degree angles onto both 3-inch pieces.

4. Connect the 45-degree angle pieces with a 1 1/2 piece of pipe.

5. Connect the back and front halves of the snowshoe together and let dry for 24 hours.

Lacing the Shoe

Use an eye splice to start and end all lacings. Weave the rope back and forth around the pipe in an over-under pattern to create lacings.

Keep the lacings in place by using CPVC cement where laces meet the pipe.

Attach to foot (boot or shoe) using bungee cords, rope, Velcro or other materials. For best results, attachment method will be similar to an ankle brace bandage.

2. Thread the lace through the snap hook.

3. Wrap the lace around a door knob.

4. Leaving your index finger and thumb free, hold the lace with your left hand.

5. Use both hands to tightly twist the right side.

6. Once the right lace is tightly twisted, switch the twisted lace to the left hand and the untwisted lace to the right hand. Repeat the twisting process.

7. Now that both the left and right sides are twisted, hold them tightly together and remove the lace from the door knob. (You might need some help with this.)

8. Once removed from the door knob the lace will twist itself into a handmade rope.

Whipping Knot:
Apply tape to the end of your new rope to keep it from unraveling. Use any type of strong twine to make a whipping knot as shown. Wrap the twine as tight as you can and pull the loop about halfway under the wraps. Trim any extra twine flush with the edge of the knot. Cut off the taped end. Leave some cordage protruding beyond the knot (about the diameter of the cordage in length). You can apply some glue to the knot to make it extra strong.

What You’ll Need:

To begin, download a list of cuts you will need to make before assembling by clicking here.

Follow these woodworking tips:

Safety
Always wear safety glasses and make sure all safety guards are in place before using power tools. Ask an adult to help you with power tools.

Wood glue
Apply a thin, even coat of glue to both pieces of wood. Clamp glued pieces together.

Carpenter’s square
Always use a carpenter’s square for right angles.

Predrilling
Predrill with 1/8-inch bit. To keep from drilling all the way through wood, put masking tape on your drill bit marking screw length from the tip.
Stop drilling when the tape meets wood. Enlarge hole 1/4-inch deep with a 1/4-inch bit. Screw each screw all the way in, making sure the head goes inside the wood (countersunk). Wipe off excess glue with a wet rag.

Edge banding
Edge banding comes in a roll with heat-activated adhesive. Edge banding is applied to all exposed plywood edges and provides a neat, finished appearance. You can use a clothes iron to heat edge banding. Keep the iron clean by placing a sheet of paper between the iron and the banding.

What You’ll Do

Note: Understand all instructions before beginning. Ask an adult to help you with power tools.

Step 1.  Assemble module frames
Place frame facedown. Screw corners together and attach gussets with screws and glue. Connect frame by screwing and gluing frame connector in place.

Step 2. Build drawer and shelf modules
Screw and glue frame into drawer module. Screw and glue shelves into shelf module. Attach back and desktop cleats to both modules.

Step 3. Build drawers
Ask an adult to use a table saw to cut a groove 1/4-inch deep and 1/4-inch wide in the front and sides of both drawers for the drawer bottoms. Glue and screw the front, sides and back together on both drawers. Slide the bottom of both drawers in place. Do not glue the bottom. Insert the drawer into the desk and center the drawer front. Make sure all drawers slide smoothly and fit neatly in place. Glue and clamp the drawer face onto both drawers. Repeat this process for the secret drawer.

Step 4. Connect the two modules
Screw and glue the module connector board to both modules as shown.

Step 5. Attach legs and trim
The legs and trim are screwed in place from the inside. The trim should cover all exterior screw holes. The long front trim piece should help hold the modules in place until the top is attached.

Step 6. Assemble keyboard tray and tray rails
Screw and glue the keyboard tray together. Screw the keyboard tray rails in place from the inside.

Step 7. Attach the top
Position the desktop evenly on the modules. Screw through the cleats into the bottom of the desktop. Sand all visible surfaces with 220-grit sandpaper and apply a finish of your choice. Screw in drawer pulls.

Here’s an excerpt from the book’s Skate Longboard project. Read a preview below and click the bottom link for a PDF of the entire craft!

From pages 74 and 75 of “Handy Dad”:

Have you ever noticed how many roads there are in your neck of the woods? Everywhere you look, there are smooth, sloping asphalt waves—I mean, slopes—just waiting to be carved up. Get into a crouch or put your toes on the nose. Feel the flow as you—I mean, your kids—carve back and forth across the blacktop with the sun on their faces and the wind in their hair. Actually, let’s not kid ourselves. I have a feeling you’re going be “borrowing” this board to relive those early glory days of skateboarding yourself.

Materials:

• 4-foot 1×7 Brazilian Ipe wood (This sounds like an odd size but it’s actually a factory-cut measurement. Look for Ipe wood at your local specialty lumberyard.)
• 2 super-wide 10-inch skateboard trucks (I like Independent-brand trucks, myself.)
• One set of super-soft street wheels (Yup, they come 4 to a set.)
• Eight bearings built for speed
• 4 feet clear grip tape, 10 inches wide

Fasteners:

• 1 1/2-inch skateboard mounting hardware, for bolting the trucks to the deck
  

Tools:

• Measuring tape
• 4-foot level or straightedge
• Pencil
• Carpenter’s square
• Felt-tip pen
• Drill with 3/16-inch and 1/4 -inch bits
• Band saw or jigsaw with wood blade
• Electric sander with a few sheets of 60-grit sand paper
• Screwdriver
• Utility knife or pocketknife
• Socket wrench with 1/2-inch, 3/8-inch and 9/16-inch sockets

Click here for a PDF of the rest of the project!

• 1 4-by-7-inch foam board (A thoroughly cleaned foam meat tray works great.)
• 1 large flex drinking straw
• Average size balloon
• Scissors
• Hole punch or pencil
• Glue gun
• Pin
• Tape

What You’ll Do:
Step 1. Cut out the bottom of a foam tray. Be careful not to bend it.

Step 2. Place the flat foam under the body template and trace it by poking holes with a pin along the outline of the template. Also trace the straw slot. Trace two fins and the balloon ring using the same method. Cut out the foam shapes with the scissors. Make a center hole in the balloon ring with a hole punch or a sharp pencil point. To download a template to trace click here.

Step 3. Cut a sharp angle on one end of the straw and make a flat cut on the other as shown.

Step 4. Stretch and bend the straw, then glue the balloon ring to the flat end. Stretch the balloon over the circle. Carefully glue this assembly over the straw slot so that no glue is inside the straw and none of the straw or glue is below the bottom of the body.

Step 5. Glue the two fins to the rear sides of the body.

Step 6. Make an inflating straw by taking the leftover half of the straw and cutting two 1/2-inch slots in it. Roll the end into a taper with your fingers and tape together. Use the inflating straw to blow up the balloon from the bottom.  Pinch the neck of the balloon and release on a smooth, clean floor.

Hovercraft Tip
The hovercraft will work properly only on a smooth, clean floor. The bottom of the hovercraft should also be smooth and clean.

For decades, Boys’ Life readers have built their own GISMO robots. This month, we introduce GISMO 5. Yes, GISMO is back and has gone green!

The green GISMO is easy to build from a radio-controlled truck or car and discarded product packaging — stuff that would usually wind up in a landfill. Body segments are connected with Velcro dots or strips and rubber bands, so it’s easy to add extra sections. And, of course, replacement parts are easy to find.

You can build the basic GISMO 5 for about $25, even less if you can find parts around the house. The base of GISMO 5 is a radio-controlled car or truck chassis. Several readers who put together our last GISMO found inexpensive radio-controlled trucks at flea markets or garage sales.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED

• Chassis from a radio-controlled truck or car.
  Choose a medium-size vehicle with thick tires and a not-too-fast motor for stability. (High-torque units accelerate so rapidly that they can cause tip-overs.) If you plan to have ‘bot battles with friends, choose vehicles on different radio frequencies so they don’t interfere with each other. You’ll find the info on the outside of the box, usually “49 MHz” or “27MHz” or channel numbers.
• A variety of boxes and cardboard tubes
• Velcro dots or strips
• Large rubber bands
• Hot glue gun
• Scissors
• Optional accessory items (Ping-Pong balls make great eyes)

WHAT YOU’LL DO

1. Use scissors to cut out add-ons like fins, wings, teeth and claws. With a little folding, you can trim boxes to different sizes and shapes.

2. Use the glue gun to glue lids shut and reshaped boxes together. This will make your robot more durable.

3. Paint the boxes or leave them as is.

4. Turn the vehicle over and remove the screws that hold its body to the chassis. Carefully lift the body off and, if necessary, pull the antenna wire through the hole in the body. Save all body parts and screws. Apply Velcro dots or strips to the top of the chassis.

5. Use Velcro and rubber bands to assemble the robot. You can make your robot look any way you want. Remember not to make it too tall, or it could fall over when you are operating it.

6. Test your robot for stability, and add more rubber bands and Velcro if needed.

What You’ll Need

• Tape measure
• Saw
• Drill
• Screwdriver
• Sandpaper
• Glue
• Pocketknife
• 2 L screws
• 2 Finish nails
• Spring doorstop
• Metal coat hanger
• Bright-colored felt or cloth
• Braided fishing line and snelled hooks
• 1 3/4-inch x 22-inch dowel or straight branch
• 10-inch dowel or straight branch that fits into the end of the doorstop spring

What You’ll Do

1. Cut the dowels to length and sand smooth.

2. Drill pilot holes, then hammer in the finish nails about two inches from the base of the spring doorstop and four to five inches apart.

3. Screw both the L screws in place as shown.

4. Drill a snug hole for the coat hanger, push it through and bend to shape.

5. Screw the spring doorstop to the end of the large dowel.

6. Screw the small dowel into the end of the spring doorstop.

7. Glue on the flag.

8. Tie the braided fishing line off around one nail, and wrap about 25 yards of line around both nails. Add a snelled hook.

Fishing is simple. It’s catching that can be hard.

Ask at the fishing store how many tip-ups you’re allowed and what kind of bait to use. Usually worms or minnows work best. Start fishing with your bait just off the bottom. You might need some weight to get it down.

Ice should be as thick as a brick.

Ice should be three inches thick before you venture out. Dress warm and always go with a friend to be safe. Some towns place signs out on the ice to let you know if it’s safe.

Have some extra fun.

A tennis ball and an old golf club are all you need. Golf from hole to hole. Whoever makes it in the hole gets to watch the other guy check the bait and clear any accumulated ice from the hole. This simple game can keep you warm and having fun.

Most of the year, Mike Valladao designs software in San Jose, Calif. But for six weeks each fall, he dons bright-orange overalls and transforms himself into “Farmer Mike, World-Class Pumpkin Carver.”

Building on his first instruction in carving years ago with his trusty blue Cub Scout pocketknife, Farmer Mike has developed a style that has him in demand for carving demos across the nation.

“Carving great pumpkins is a craft, not an art,” Farmer Mike says. ” A craft means you know how to use the tools.”

And it means you, too, can learn it. Here’s how, straight from Farmer Mike.

PICKING A PUMPKIN

• If you want your Jack-O-Lantern to have character, start with a pumpkin that already has character. An elongated pumpkin is perfect for a laughing face; a short, fat pumpkin could lend itself to a wide toothy grin. Bumps on the surface might turn into a nose or warty chin.

• Choose a pumpkin in good condition. The entire surface should be firm.

PREPARING YOUR PUMPKIN

• Draw a pattern directly on the pumpkin. Let the shape be your guide. A long pumpkin deserves a long face. Some pumpkins work better upside down. “Move it around and create the best effect,” Farmer Mike says.

• Use two felt-tipped pens, one a water-based temporary marker, the other permanent. The water-based pen is erasable and will allow you to modify your design.

• With the water-based pen, draw a line down the center of the face. This will help you to stay balanced. Mark the position of the nose a little below the middle of your line. Then mark a line for the height of the eyes. Determine the width of the eyes and make your marks. (The great artist Leonardo da Vinci believed the centers of the eyes and the center of the nose should form a perfect triangle.)

• Draw out the eyes and nose. Overdo the features—a large flat nose will show better than a small one. Draw the mouth and eyebrows. Complete the rest of the features, including wrinkles. Play with it until you are satisfied. When finished, redraw over your creation with the permanent marker. Wipe off your temporary marks with a damp cloth.

• Clean out your pumpkin—the messy part! If you plan to light the pumpkin with a candle, cut a hole in the top (to allow heat and smoke to escape) and take out the insides with a spoon. If you do not plan to light the pumpkin, you can cut a hole in the back where it will not be seen.

CARVING YOUR MASTERPIECE

• Use as much depth as possible without needlessly cutting through the pumpkin. To do this you need to know the thickness of the pumpkin. Cut a core sample from an area that will not be seen—the center of one eye, if you plan to leave it open, or the inside of the mouth). Note that the thickness can vary from one part of the pumpkin to another. Inspect the inside to see if there are thin spots.

• Carve using a “chip” method. The base of the nose is a logical place to start because the nose requires depth around it so it can look as though it is protruding from the face. Without cutting all the way through the rind, use in-and-out movements to create a cut around the outline of the nose. Then, angle in with a second cut (about three-quarters of an inch to the outside of the first cut) to notch out a wedge around the bottom of the nose. If done correctly, the wedge will fall out without leaving a hole in the pumpkin.

• Once the outline of the nose is exposed, cut off the orange rind and begin giving the nose its shape. Gently taper the bridge of the nose back into the head. Nostrils can be cut clear through the shell. Create freckles by leaving small circles of orange rind while removing the surrounding areas.

• Cut the holes for the inside of the eyes and mouth. Leave the teeth intact. Later you can give shape to the teeth by cutting off the rind to recess them back from the lips and into the mouth. Continue with the cheeks, round the lips and finish the rest of the face.

• Set the eyes back into the pumpkin a little to make the face look more lifelike.

• Attempt to blend the features together and make any required changes. Give the pumpkin worry lines and wrinkles. Cut eyeballs from the back of the pumpkin to place in the eye sockets with toothpicks, or use “googlie eyes” from a craft store.

DISPLAYING YOUR CARVED PUMPKIN

• Display your carved pumpkin in a cool, dry location to make it last as long as possible—four to seven days is a long time.

• A candle or light bulb inside the pumpkin may add a great effect, but it will reduce the carving to mush in a matter of hours instead of days.

• Take plenty of photos.

WIND VANE

A wind vane measures the direction of the wind.

Supplies:

• Aluminum baking dish, pie tin or tray that’s thin enough to cut
• Wooden garden stake that’s at least 3 feet tall and 1 inch thick
• 12-inch-long, 1-inch-thick piece of wood
• 2- to 3-inch-long nail
• Drill
• Metal washer
• Hammer
• Mallet
• Glue
• Small saw
• Scissors

1. Using the mallet, drive the garden stake into the ground until it feels sturdy. Choose a location that’s outdoors and relatively clear of anything that would obstruct the wind.

2. Using the saw, cut a half-inch slot into each end of the 12-inch-long piece of wood.

3. With the help of an adult, place the piece of wood on top of the stake, and drill a hole through the wood and into the stake. Use a drill bit that’s slightly larger than the nail you’ll be using.

4. Place the washer on top of the stake, and insert the nail through the wood and into the stake. The piece of wood should be free to rotate but not fall off.

5. Cut an arrowhead and tail out of the aluminum, and glue them into the slots on each end of the wood.

6. Wait for the wind to blow, and watch as your vane turns to point in the same direction.

ANEMOMETER

An anemometer measures the speed of the wind.

Supplies:

• New sharpened pencil
• 5 plastic foam cups
• Hole punch
• Straight pin
• 2 long plastic straws
• Felt marker
• Tape

1. Mark a number “1” on one of the cups and set it to the side.

2. Poke four holes evenly spaced apart in the sides of the cup by plunging the pencil straight through both sides. Make sure one set of holes is slightly lower than the other.

3. Poke the pencil through the bottom of the cup, then pull it out, turn it around, and push it through the hole again, this time with the eraser side up.

4. Thread straws through the holes of the cup so that they cross in the middle. Tape the straws in place.

5. Push the pencil up until the eraser touches the straws at the point where they cross. Push the straight pin through the straws and into the eraser so that the straws are held in place, but the cup can still spin around the pencil.

6. Using the pencil, poke one hole in the side of each remaining cup. Mount each cup on the straws.

7. Hold the apparatus by the pencil, wait for the wind to blow, and watch it spin. Count the number of revolutions the marked cup makes in one minute to track the wind speed.

RAIN GAUGE

A rain gauge measures the amount of rain.

You can make a rain gauge out of any kind of measuring cup left outside when it rains.

If an old measuring cup isn’t handy, cut the top off of a plastic water bottle. Use a ruler to measure how much water the bottle collects after a rainfall, or, better yet, use a waterproof marker to make inch marks on the side of the bottle.

If your boat does all this, it finishes ahead of any boat that can’t. Here’s how to build your winner.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED

• Regatta Kit (BSA Supply No. 17090, $3.99, http://www.scoutstuff.org)
• Fine sandpaper
• Scissors
• Polyurethane
• Paintbrush
• Superglue
• Spray paint (optional)
• Adult permission and/or supervision

WHAT YOU’LL DO

Step 1: Sand the balsa wood hull’s sides and bottom until smooth.

Step 2: Put the mast in, and bend back the mast to “rake” it a little. Take the mast out for now.

Step 3: Seal the hull, using two coats of polyurethane, then sand it smooth.

Step 4: Add the keel and the rudder. Put both on the centerline and at right angles to the bottom of the hull. Put the keel on as far back as you can, just ahead of the rudder.

Step 5: Glue the keel’s narrow edge next to the hull and the angled edge forward. This makes your boat harder to tip and quicker to right.

Step 6: If you paint the boat, keep it simple — spray paint works fine. Three thin coats make an attractive finish. Attach the mast after painting.

Step 7: Trim 1/4 inch off the top and 3/4 inch off the bottom of the sail. Cut a new bottom hole 1/2 inch above the old one. Clip off the bottom corners so they can’t snag the gutter.

Step 8: To keep the sail above the gutter, attach it so that the bottom is 1 1/2 inches above the deck. Glue the sail to the mast so that it can’t move. Attach the sail at right angles to the centerline.

HOW TO CAPTAIN THE BOAT

No matter how well you make your boat, victory demands a skilled captain. An even wind, for instance, moves the boat faster than do frantic puffs.

Practice long, steady breaths. Your breath should hit the sail directly behind the sail and just below the center.

If you’re too high, blowing downward, you will force the bow down, slowing the boat. You’ll blow your chance to win.

Position yourself so that you are blowing from behind the boat and slightly up, using a gentle, steady breath.

Packs around the country are preparing to hold their annual pinewood derby. There are many ways to make your pinewood derby car go faster. Here are some of them.

GENERAL GUIDELINES FOR PINEWOOD DERBY CAR DESIGN

The possibilities are endless when it comes to picking a shape for your pinewood derby car. Before you begin, consider the following guidelines:

NEED IDEAS? See a slideshow of more than 100 cool pinewood derby designs created by Boys’ Life readers

Avoid designs with a pointed nose. A pointed nose will make it difficult for your pinewood derby car to rest on the pin at the starting gate. It may also cause your pinewood derby car to get bumped around when the pin drops, and it can create problems for electronic timing systems.

Leave enough wood in the rear of the pinewood derby car so you can place additional weight there. You will end up putting most of the weight in the rear of the pinewood derby car.

Be sure that it is very clear which end of your pinewood derby car is the front and which end is the back. In many races, the race officials—not you—will actually place each pinewood derby car on the track. Sometimes the officials put the pinewood derby car on the track backward because they can’t tell which end is which.

Choose a design that allows the air to move over and around the pinewood derby car body in a smooth manner. Pinewood derby cars with aerodynamic profiles go faster.

DESIGNING THE ULTIMATE PINEWOOD DERBY CAR

You don’t have to strive for the “ultimate pinewood derby car” to build a fast car and have fun competing in your pinewood derby. But if you and a helpful adult are willing to put in the extra time and effort, these tips are for you.

LOOKING GOOD How to give your pinewood derby car that glossy finish

Bake the Block: Start with your block of wood, and before you do anything else, bake it in the oven at 250 degrees for around two hours to remove moisture and make it lighter.

Create the Design: Select a fast design.

Cut the Design: Draw the outline of your pinewood derby car on a sheet of paper, cut it out and attach it to your block of wood.

Make a Three-Wheeler: Raise one wheel about 1/16 inch higher so it never actually touches the track. Less friction = more speed.

Extend the Wheelbase: The front and rear wheels should be as far apart as possible.

Determine Weight Placement: A heavier rear increases speed. Add weight to the rear of your pinewood derby car.

Create Glue Holes: Glue the axles firmly in their holes to ensure that they stay perfectly placed.

Sand the Pinewood Derby Car: Make it smooth to reduce friction.

Lubricate the Wheel Well: The less friction between the body and wheel, the better.

CHOOSING YOUR AXLES

Not all axles are created equal. Here’s a tip on choosing the straightest out of your bunch.

1. Start with a set of about 20 raw axles.

2. Can you tell the difference between the axles in the top row and the ones on the bottom? The ones on the bottom aren’t straight and will slow your car.

3. To tell which are straight and which aren’t, mark each axle with a marker about 1/2 inch from the pointed end.

4. Have an adult clamp a power drill into a vise, a device that will hold it perfectly still.

5. Have an adult help you clamp each axle into the drill at the location you marked in Step 3. Have the adult turn on the drill.

6. Bent axles will wobble as they turn in the drill. Straight axles will hardly wobble at all. Pick the ones that wobble least.

WANT MORE SECRETS?

Pick up a copy of “Pinewood Derby Speed Secrets” (BSA Supply No. 30538, 1-800-323-0736, www.scoutstuff.org) for lots more info on building the pinewood derby car body, preparing the axles and wheels, alternatives to the “ultimate pinewood derby car” and putting it all together.

And once you’ve built your pinewood derby car, get ideas on making it look great from “Pinewood Derby Designs & Patterns” (DK Publishing, $12.95 softcover), also available from a BSA retail store.

Remember: The No. 1 rule of a pinewood derby is that it’s supposed to be fun. While you should always strive to do your best, don’t get caught up in winning. Just enjoy the ride.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED

• Coarse, medium-grit and fine sandpaper
• Liquid Sanding Sealer
• Enamel paint
• Decals or self-stick numbers
• Testor’s Glosscote clear gloss paint
• Floor wax paste

WHAT YOU’LL DO

Support Your Sandpaper

Begin by wrapping sandpaper in a block of wood 1 inch by 3 inches. Without a block of wood for support, sandpaper can leave dips and gullies in the pinewood body.

Round the corners of the pinewood with coarse sandpaper. For the squared-off look of an antique car or a modern Indy 500 car, sand the edges lightly. If you want the shape of Sprint or older Grand Prix cars, sand until the pinewood has an oval or elliptical shape.

Change to medium-grit paper for smoothing rough edges. Finish with fine sandpaper to remove any sanding marks.

Hide the Grain

Just painting the pinewood won’t hide the wood’s grain. Apply two coats of liquid Sanding Sealer (sold at hobby shops). Let the sealer dry overnight before sanding it lightly with fine-grit paper.

If the grain still shows, apply two more coats of sealer. Let it dry overnight and sand again. Repeat the process until the grain disappears.

Choose a color for your racer. Then apply two to three coats of enamel paint to the pinewood body. Spraying the model with paint from an aerosol can is easier than using a brush.

If you use a brush, dip only the lower third of the brush into the paint. Use single, smooth strokes instead of dabbing the paint on the model. Blend the strokes so they can’t be seen.

Pick a Number

Place a race number on the car. Buy self-stick numbers at stationery stores or decals at a hobby shop.

Seal and protect the race number by spraying the entire model with Testor’s Glosscote clear gloss paint. Other clear paints may make the numbers curl. Test the clear paint on a decal or number stuck to scrap plastic before spraying your racer.

Let the clear paint dry for at least a week. Then cover the model with floor wax paste and buff to a high gloss. The wax will protect the car and give your pinewood derby racer the look of shining steel.

More pinewood derby fun:

• Complete pinewood derby guide
• More than 100 photos of pinewood derby cars sent in by readers
• Speed secrets to make your pinewood derby car go faster
• Watch video of a super-fast pinewood derby track
• Play BL‘s new pinewood derby game

One way is to make an insect spreading board — your own nature museum made up of the most common insects in your neighborhood. It might make you think twice before squashing the next bug you see.

Here’s how to make your own bug board:

STEP 1: Get a good field guide. You can buy “Bugs & Slugs: An Introduction to Familiar North American Invertebrates” from www.scoutstuff.org ($5.95, Item No. 30403), but you can also find good guides for free at the library or on the Internet.

A good guide should provide color photos or illustrations of different bugs, along with information on their behavior and habitat.

STEP 2: Make a collecting net. You can buy one at many retail stores (often in the toy department), or you can make your own with a wire clothes hanger and a patch of nylon strainer netting available at most hardware stores.

Bend the clothes hanger into a loop. Go to the paint section of the hardware store and ask for a five-gallon nylon strainer. Weave some fishing line through the holes near the edge of the strainer and “sew” it to the clothes hanger. Use duct tape to fasten the hanger to a broom handle or a wooden dowel.

STEP 3: Construct a killing jar. Freezing is the safest and cleanest method of preparing bugs for mounting. Just place your specimens in a jar and leave the jar in the freezer until the critters are dead.

You can also enlist the help of an adult or merit badge counselor to make a killing jar that uses chemicals (such as nail polish remover). Be extra careful, as these chemicals can be dangerous to you as well as the bug.

STEP 4: Make a bug board. You can use almost any shallow box to show your insects. Sometimes the top of a large box works great. Use a material such as polystyrene foam, cardboard or fiberboard to reinforce the bottom of your board.

Regular straight pins are O.K. for pinning insects, but they might rust over time and spoil the specimen. Search online for special insect pins that will last longer.

When pinning a bug to your board, be careful to do as little damage as possible. Small bugs should be glued instead of pinned.

STEP 5: Catch some bugs. Take your field guide with you. When you get started, it might be easier to look for any bugs, instead of one specific bug. Once you’ve collected a nice variety, then you can move on to filling the holes in your collection.

Learn which bugs are common in your area. A bug collection in Wisconsin is going to look different from a bug collection in Southern California. Don’t waste your time looking for critters that don’t even live in your region.

STEP 6: Label your bugs. You can simply tear off a small piece of paper from a standard white sheet, or you can buy labels from an office supply store. Write down the name of the bug and the date and location where it was found.

Take it a step further and write down the scientific name of the bug, along with notes on other conditions in which it was found, such as temperature, the kinds of plants nearby and recent rainfall.

Beware of Carpet Beetles. If you spot some brown dust on the bottom of your bug box, your specimens are likely being targeted by the larvae of carpet beetles, which will eat mounted insects. A moth crystal inside of an envelope will keep them out. Place the entire box in the freezer for a week to get rid of the ones that have already set up shop.

Good Hunting. You can watch and study insects wherever you find them, but it might be illegal to collect them from natural areas such as state parks, national parks and wildlife refuges. Collect them instead from around your house and throughout your neighborhood.

Making a periscope from wood and a few pieces of mirror is easier than you might think. Here are plans and instructions for a periscope more than two feet long—just what you want for heavy-duty secret agent work.

Click here for a PDF version of these instructions.

YOU’LL NEED:

• Two glass mirrors 1⁄8-inch thick by 2 3⁄8-inches wide by 3 inches long
• Two pieces of pine or plywood 3⁄8-inch thick by 2 1⁄8-inches wide by 25 3⁄4-inches long (side members)
• Two pieces of pine or plywood 3⁄8-inch thick by 3 3⁄8-inches wide by 23 inches long (front and back parts)
• Two mirror blocks 2 1⁄8-inches thick by 2 9⁄16-inches wide by 2 3⁄4-inches long, cut into triangular blocks according to diagram
• Silicone caulking, carpenter’s glue, 1-inch finishing nails
• Adult permission and/or help

Step 1. Cut wood to size using a table saw.

Step 2. You can have the mirrors cut for you at any glass shop, or you can prepare the mirrors yourself using a glass cutter. If you go to a glass shop, bring the mirror blocks with you so they know what size you need. If you do it yourself, make sure there is an adult on hand to help you. The mirrors shouldn’t cost more than a few dollars.

Step 3. Glue one mirror to each angled face of the mirror blocks, using silicone caulking. Set these aside to dry overnight.

Step 4. Clamp one sidepiece to each side of the mirror blocks, and then place one face piece over the top edges of the sides. The plans show how this face piece is shorter than the sides, and must extend to the top of the periscope. That leaves the mirror open for you to look through. When everything is lined up, fasten this first face to the sides with carpenter’s glue and 1-inch finishing nails. Don’t glue the mirror blocks yet. They must be free to move around for adjustment later.

Step 5. Now flip the periscope over so you can glue and nail the second face to the other edges of the sides. This will form a long, rectangular box—your periscope.

Step 6. Before setting the project aside to dry, slide the mirror blocks out, just to be sure they don’t get glued in.

Step 7. After letting your periscope’s body dry overnight, remove the clamps, smear a little glue on the mirror blocks’ sides and slip them back in position. If friction alone doesn’t keep them in place, hold them still with a few small clamps across the sides of the periscope.

Step 8. It’s now time for adjustment. Pick up the periscope and look through one end; it doesn’t matter which. How do things look? If your line of sight seems tilted, adjust the direction of each mirror up or down until you’re happy. You won’t have to move the blocks much. When you can see a clear, rectangular view of the world, that’s great! Just set the periscope aside until the glue blocks dry.

Step 9. Finish by sanding the periscope and applying three coats of urethane.

THE GIFT THAT KEEPS ON GIVING

This promise tree can also become an instant jewelry hanger.

• Find a branch with plenty of twigs. You can paint it or leave it natural.
• Stand up the branch in a container and stabilize it with pebbles or clay.
• Cut shapes from paper and write special coupons for your mom.
• For surprise coupons, you can roll up squares of paper.
• Attach them to the branch with colorful bits of yarn. And no griping when she uses them!

COASTING

Make a set of coasters by placing leaves and flowers between two pieces of clear contact paper.

Trace a circle slightly larger than the base of a cup. Press together and cut out the circle (or other shape).

For an added touch, glue felt to the bottom of each coaster.

FLOWER POWER

Want flowers for Mom to last as long as possible? Turn them into a place mat.

• You’ll need two pieces of clear contact paper big enough for a table setting.
• With the backing pulled off, arrange petals, leaves and flattened flowers on the sticky side of one piece.
• Carefully lay the second sheet, sticky side down, over your design. (An extra pair of hands can help.) The colors of the flowers will fade, but their beauty won’t.

MOMS ROCK!

Turn a rock into a pendant your mother will love.

• Wrap a piece of yarn or embroidery floss around the rock every which way.
• Tie the ends together at one side, then make a double knot a little farther up to create a loop.
• Coat the rock and yarn with white liquid glue.
• Keep it on a piece of wax paper until the glue dries clear.

POETRY TO HER EARS

Make your mom a set of poetry pebbles to play with.

• Find at least 20 smooth pebbles similar in size.
• With a permanent marker, write a single word on each one.
• Choose words you think she would like, using a mix of nouns, verbs, adjectives, pronouns and prepositions.

CATCH SOME RAYS …

… and Mom’s attention with a dazzling sun catcher that’s easy to make.

• Cover your work area with newspaper, then sandwich flowers and leaves between two pieces of wax paper.
• Tuck some glitter and colorful crayon shavings inside, too.
• With adult supervision, cover with a layer of newspaper, then run an iron set on low over the sun catcher to seal it.
• Punch a hole at the top and add a loop of yarn so it will be ready to hang.

DON’T SPILL THE BEANS!

Make a secret hiding place for Mom’s treasures.

• You’ll need a glass jar with a lid, a piece of cardboard, a cardboard tube and some dried beans.
• Cut the tube so it is slightly shorter than the jar, and glue it to a circular cardboard base.
• Stand the tube and base inside the jar. Pour dried beans all around it, right up to the top.

This hiding place is so good, you might want to make one for yourself.

NUTTY PICTURES

Here’s a photo case Mom will be nuts about.

• Ask an adult to split a walnut shell in half.
• Trim photos to fit on each rim and glue them into place.
• When the glue has dried, put the two walnut halves back together and glue a scrap of felt across them to make a hinge.

Don’t let that happen to yours. Use a hide rack patch display. Based on Native American “hide racks” that cured fur pelts, this display lets you show off your souvenirs and practice knots and hitches.

YOU’LL NEED:

• two one-inch-diameter dowels, 42 inches long
• two one-inch-diameter dowels, 29 inches long
• 1⁄8-inch cotton cord
• 1⁄8-inch bit and drill
• wood screws and screwdriver
• piece of brown or tan synthetic suede leather, 24 inches wide by 36 inches long
• 24 inches of self-adhesive Velcro fastening tape, 1⁄2 inch wide
• scissors

Step 1: To build the frame, position the dowels (use real branches for a more rustic look) in a rectangle. The shorter dowels should lay vertically on top of the longer dowels. Leave an overlap of about two inches on the corners.

Step 2: Drill a 1⁄8-inch pilot hole about 11⁄2 inches deep at each corner. Be sure not to drill completely through the horizontal dowels. Secure each corner with a screw and turn the frame over.

Step 3: With the cotton cord, tie a square lashing on each of the four corners.

Step 4: Give the entire frame, including lashings, a coat of brown wood stain. You might also want to apply a light coat of satin varnish or a polyurethane finish to the frame. Allow the frame to dry.

Step 5: Trim the hide about two inches smaller than the frame. Save the leftover scraps.

Step 6: Cut a row of 1⁄4-inch-long slits along the edges of the hide, spacing the slits about one inch apart and 1⁄2 inch from the edge.

Step 7: From the leftover scrap, cut 1⁄4-inch-wide strips, as long as possible. Join the strips together using square knots until you have two laces 20 feet long each.

Step 8: Lay the frame faceup on a large flat sur face (The screws should not be showing.) Using a
clove hitch, tie the laces to the frame in two opposite corners.

Step 9: Position the hide in the center of the frame and begin looping the laces through the slits—under the hide and over the dowel. Keep an even tension by working in opposite directions. End with a final clove hitch.

Step 10: Cut the Velcro into 1⁄2-inchsquare pieces. Before attaching the squares to the patches, arrange your patches on the rack, which is screwside down.

Step 11: To mount the Velcro, peel off the plastic strip covering the hook side of a Velcro pad and stick it to the patch. Then peel off the strip covering the fuzzy side and stick it to the hide. (Keeping the hook and fuzzy sides consistent will make it easier to rearrange your patches later.)

Step 12: Tie leather strips to the upper corners of the frame to form hanging loops. Attach the rack to your wall using nails or picture hangers. Besides patches, you can also display hat pins, historic trail medals, ribbons or other mementos. What better way to show off the things you’re proud of!

WHAT YOU’LL NEED

• Recycled food barrel (try checking with large restaurants or food distributors)
• 2 to 4 concrete blocks (to allow room for a bucket to fit under the spigot)
• 3/4-inch hose spigot
• Drill
• Saber saw
• 3/4 x 1-1/4-inch threaded pipe nipple (used as overflow connector)
• Window screen
• PVC cement

WHAT YOU’LL DO

1. Wash out the barrel with a solution of 1/8-cup bleach and 5 gallons of water.

2. Drill a 15/16-inch hole a few inches from the bottom of the barrel. Thread the spigot halfway into the barrel, apply PVC cement onto the threads and continue screwing it in until snug.

3. Using the same procedure as the spigot, install the 3/4-inch overflow connector a few inches from the top of the barrel.

4. Choose a good spot for the rain barrel. It needs to be close to a rain downspout and a short distance from your plants and gardens.

5. Raise the barrel off the ground by placing it on concrete blocks. Reconfigure the downspout so it empties directly into the barrel. Use the screen to cover the open hole in the barrel to prevent insects or debris from getting in.

6. If you’ve installed an overflow, you can attach a hose and direct the water to another part of your yard.

You’ll need:

• a piece of one-inch-thick hardwood, 4 inches long by 2 inches wide
• two 1⁄2-by-4-inch roundhead wood screws
• plastic garbage bag
• sandpaper
• drill and bits, up to 1⁄2 inch
• crosscut and rip saws
• screwdriver
• scissors

Step 1: Saw off a strip 1⁄2 inch wide.

Step 2: Measure and mark positions for three holes on top of the strip. Measure 13⁄8 inches from one end and make a centered mark.

Step 3: From that mark, measure 3⁄4 inch in both directions. Clamp the two pieces of wood together to ensure drilled holes will line up.

Step 4: Use a 3⁄32-inch bit to start the three pilot holes. Drill the center hole 13⁄16 inches deep and the outside holes 1⁄2 inch deep. (Wrap a piece of masking tape around the bit to mark where to stop.) Gradually increase the center hole’s diameter: 5⁄32 inch, 13⁄64 inch, 1⁄4 inch and then—by 16ths—to 1⁄2 inch. Redrill the outside holes 1⁄4 inch deep with a 7⁄32-inch bit. Drive the wood screws so the heads are beneath the surface.

Step 5: From the end of the base you began measuring from, drill a 3⁄32-inch pilot hole 15⁄8 inches deep. Gradually increase the hole to 1⁄2 inch, as before, creating an “L”-shaped airway between the base and the strip.

Step 6: At the opposite end of the base, drill a 1⁄8-inch pilot hole at the center all the way into the blowhole. Increase its size to 3⁄16 inch.

Step 7: At the same end, drill a hole all the way through the strip for a leather thong.

Step 8: Cut a strip from a plastic garbage bag, 11⁄16 inches wide and 2 inches long. Remove the screws and lay the plastic over the holes in the base. Replace the top and redrive the screws. Smooth the entire instrument with sandpaper. (Wrap a strip around a piece of dowel to smooth the inside of the airway holes.) Apply stain or varnish.

Bring the blowhole firmly against your lips and hum loudly into it. With your tongue against your palate, create sort of a “duh, doo, duh” sound. Practice songs from your favorite tape or CD, as well as some classic camp tunes. You’re ready to rock your troop all night long!

The best-known snow shelter is the igloo. A brilliant use of engineering and resources, this simple dome made out of snow blocks is both strong and versatile.

THE MOST FAMOUS SNOW SHELTER

Arctic cultures such as the Eskimo and the Inuit developed it, and over time they came up with a hundred tricks to make the shelter more comfortable and sturdy, including making the entrance small (to help keep heat in) and melting the inside of the dome and letting it refreeze (for increased strength).

The earliest reference of igloo use came from the Vikings, who settled parts of Greenland and explored the eastern Canadian coast about a thousand years ago. They found natives living in igloos, but didn’t use them themselves because they considered the technology inferior.

History has proven otherwise, as the Vikings lasted for only about four centuries in the harsh climate of Greenland, while the native peoples are still carving igloos from the landscape today. Six hundred years after the tough Vikings were defeated by the tougher weather of the Little Ice Age, Boy Scouts still use the design of the igloo to keep warm.

BUILDING AN IGLOO

Diameter: Not to exceed 10 feet. Anything bigger would require a perfect dome, which is next to impossible to construct in the field.

Materials: Top layers of dry powder won’t work. Pack mounds of snow until they harden, or cut blocks of snow from the depth where your feet stop sinking.

Entrance: Build a door in the ground, about 18 inches lower than the ground inside the igloo, and tunnel below the wall into the igloo. For proper ventilation, never seal or close the entrance.

Walls: Cut the blocks into a spiral layer, leaning one block against the next. Keep the interior wall smooth so moisture can run down the side of the wall, instead of dripping from the ceiling. Include a vent hole to allow for better circulation.

STICK IT TO A SNOWFLAKE

A tiny, one-of-a-kind snowflake lands on your coat sleeve. You look; you breathe; it’s gone. How can you make a flake stick around longer?

Try superglue. It can seep into small spaces, and trace amounts of water cause it to harden. Put these properties to work and make a lasting snow crystal “fossil.”

On a snowy day, pre-chill a tube of superglue (not the gel kind) and some glass slides and cover slips outside. Be sure to read the safety precautions on the glue’s label before you start.

Catch some snow on a dark surface. Find a crystal you like and move it to the middle of a glass slide. “Use a small paintbrush or a toothpick,” says snowflake expert Dr. Kenneth Libbrecht. “The crystals are delicate, and metal tweezers can conduct heat from your fingers.”

Cover the flake with a drop of superglue. Touching only its sides, gently place a cover slip over the glue. It can take as long as a week for the glue to completely set. Until then, protect the snow crystal by storing your slide in the freezer.

Later, view your snowflake “fossil” with or without a magnifying lens or microscope.

HOT TIPS FOR COLD CAMERAS

Taking photos outside in winter can be tricky. Here are some helpful hints:

• Wear thin gloves so you can adjust your camera.
• Batteries lose their juice in the cold, so keep a spare set close to your body.
• In bright snow, increase exposure time and/or add a flash.
• Store your camera in a plastic resealable sandwich bag. This keeps your camera dry outside and prevents condensation from forming on it when you go back inside.

PUT WINTER IN A CAST

A blanket of snow covers the ground: It’s prime time for animal tracking. So why does your cast of that picture-perfect raccoon print look like it came from an eight-toed alien?

Don’t give up just yet. Making plaster casts of tracks in snow is tricky but not impossible.

Before you cast, reinforce the track so it can stand up to the weight of the plaster. If the snow is wet, dust it with some powdered plaster and let it set. If the snow is dry and powdery, spray a mist of water over the track and wait for it to freeze. You can also try using Snow Print Wax — crime-scene investigators use it to collect evidence.

Plaster gives off heat as it hardens. When casting in snow, mix the plaster to the thickness of half-melted ice cream, adding some snow to cool it down. Pour from a short distance to minimize damage to the track.

If the plaster freezes before it sets, turn the cast track-side up and bring it inside to thaw and finish setting.

New to tracking or just want to brush up? Check out these books:

• “Peterson Field Guide to Animal Tracks” by Olaus J. Murie and Mark Elbroch (Houghton Mifflin, $19.95 softcover)
• “Tom Brown’s Field Guide: Nature Observation and Tracking” by Tom Brown Jr. (Berkley Trade, $14 softcover)
• “Field Guide to Tracking Animals in Snow” by Louise R. Forrest (Stackpole Books, $16.95 softcover)

For younger readers:

• “Nature Detectives” by K.C. Kelley (A Boys’ Life DK Reader, DK Publishing, $3.99 softcover)

TAKE A NIP OUT OF JACK FROST

Feeling artistic? Team up with the cold and make some hoarfrost. These large, fragile ice crystals might look complex, but they are easy to grow.

When temperatures are below freezing, set out an open pot of water. Put it somewhere that’s wind-free, such as in an unheated shed or barn. Keep the water warm with a hotplate or other heat source. Position a tree branch or other object for the hoarfrost crystals to grow on a few feet above the water. Now wait patiently for at least a day.

The air temperature and amount of water vapor coming from your pot will affect how the hoarfrost crystals grow. You might end up with crystals that look scaly, feathery or needle-like.

Want to hold on to your natural masterpiece in warmer weather? Take a picture!

Here’s how to tumble your way to rich compost for your garden and plants.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED

• Sturdy plastic 55-gallon (or so) food barrel
• Drill
• Saw
• Hammer
• Adjustable wrench
• 8 3⁄8-by-3 1⁄2-inch carriage bolts
• 8 3⁄8-inch nuts
• 8 3⁄8-inch washers
• 16d galvanized nails
• 2 bungee cords (If barrel has a locking lid, you won’t need the bungees.)
• 5 2-by-6-inch boards (Lengths will be determined by the size of the container.)
• 3⁄4-inch galvanized pipe, threaded both ends (You can get a standard-size pre-cut threaded pipe. The length will be determined by diameter of the barrel.)
• 2 3⁄4-inch galvanized pipe caps

WHAT YOU’LL DO

Prepare the Barrel

1. Wash out the barrel and drill two 7⁄8-inch holes halfway between the top and bottom. These holes are for the 3⁄4-inch galvanized pipe.

2. Drill 1⁄2-inch holes evenly spaced around the barrel.

Build a Sturdy Frame

3. Cut the 2-by-6-inch boards and assemble the frame as shown, using the hardware listed. The feet should be almost as long as the legs are high.

4. Drill 7⁄8-inch holes at the top of the legs and pass the 3⁄4-inch steel pipe through the hole in one leg, into the barrel and out through the leg on the other side. Screw on the pipe caps.

5. If the lid needs to be held in place, drill small holes around the lid to hook bungee cords.

COMPOSTING BASICS

Layer yard waste into the tumbler. Alternate green materials like grass clippings with brown ones like hay or fallen leaves. Put in some garden soil and kitchen waste such as veggie scraps, fruit peels, cereal, bread, crushed egg shells, tea bags, and coffee grounds and filters. Never use meat, poultry, fish, dairy or pet waste. That stuff can attract unwanted critters.

Bacteria breaks down the materials in your tumbler and turns it into rich organic compost. The decomposing material will become hot as the bacteria does its work. The material in your tumbler should be about as moist as a damp sponge. Spin your tumbler one or two times a week to mix the contents and keep it aerated.

HOW TO FIND A BARREL

Food barrels are used for things like juice or pickles. Try checking with large restaurants or food distributors. Also, there are companies that sell used food barrels.

A stereograph is a special kind of picture that works the same way. By giving a different view to each eye, it creates the illusion of depth, as if you could walk into the picture. Our 3D vision works effectively to the range of about 100 feet. Beyond that, we make guesses about depth from what we know about the world.

For example, if you see a man who looks bigger than a truck, you know the reason. He’s standing closer.

These images are called stereographs. They were a popular form of entertainment around 1860 until moving pictures started to gain popularity. They are still used in map making, science (micro photography, modeling) and 3D puzzles.

You can capture your own 3D images. Here’s how.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED

• Two single-use cameras
• One 1 1/4-inch slotted angle bar, 9 inches long
• Two 3/8-inch-wide strips of cork or rubber matting, 9 inches long
• Elmer’s Stix-All glue
• One wood spacer, 1 inch by 2 inches by 2 3/4 inches
• One wood spacer, 1 inch by 2 inches by 1 inch
• Four 14-inch cable ties
• Fingernail clippers
• Metal file
• 3/4-inch wood screw and washer
• One wire coat hanger
• Access to a color copier
• Wire cutters
• Pliers

BUILD THE BASIC 3D RIG

Step 1: File the corners and exposed edges of the slotted angle bar to make it snag-free.

Step 2: Glue the cork or rubber matting to the angle bar base.

Step 3: Mount the longer wood spacer at the center of the angle bar with a screw and washer.

Step 4: Clamp the cameras to the base on either side of the spacer with the four 14-inch cable ties. Trim ties to the nub with fingernail clippers. The wood spacer will keep the camera lenses about 5 inches apart. For landscapes use the small spacer.

Step 5: To make a trigger rig, cut a coat hanger with wire cutters and bend the hanger so that the ends touch the cameras’ shutter buttons at the same time. Keep the hanger in place with strips of mat or cardboard.

NOW, MAKE A STEREOGRAPH

Step 1: Find a comfortable grip on the rig, aim at your subject and press the buttons on both cameras at the same time.

Step 2: Keep at least 10 feet from your subject for natural-looking 3D. Frame your picture in one of the viewfinders. Remember to advance the film in both cameras.

Step 3: Mark the cameras left and right, so you’ll know which is which when the pictures come back from the developer. Ask for 4-inch-by-6-inch prints. Put the paired left and right pictures edge to edge and tape the back seam.

Step 4: Reduce the paired pictures on a color copier. Portraits require an 85-percent reduction. Landscape photographs require a 55-percent reduction. Glue to poster board and cut out to make your own stereographic view cards.

HOW TO VIEW

If you already enjoy 3D illusion puzzles, you know how to look at stereographs.

If not, here’s how: Hold the middle of the stereograph to your nose. Try to look only at the image in front of each eye and draw away slowly until the images are in focus. You will see three images. The middle one is in 3D and will seem to float in space somewhere behind the card.

SEE MORE

Read all about stereographs and look at great pictures in “The World of Stereographs” (Land Yacht Press, 1997) by William C. Darrah.

YOU’LL NEED

• pruning clippers
• drill and 3⁄32-inch bit
• clamp
• scratch awl or nail
• white glue
• 2mm-diameter drafting lead, 2B grade (at art or office supply stores)
• utility knife or pocketknife
• adult permission or supervision

STEP 1: Find a twig. Look for one with interesting color, texture or with a forked shape. (The length of the twig, though, must be straight.) Hold the twig as you would a pencil to find the right size. Use pruning clippers to trim away unwanted parts. Check the twig for bugs (you don’t want any).

STEP 2: Clamp the twig to the edge of a workbench or piece of plywood. Be careful! Too much pressure can crush the twig.

STEP 3: Use a scratch awl or the point of a nail to make a dent at the center of the twig’s end. The dent will become the starting point for the drill bit.

STEP 4: Drill to a depth of 1 to 1 1⁄4 inches. Make sure to keep both hands on the tool!

As you drill, you may need to back out the bit to clear wood chips from the drill’s flutes (its spiral grooves). To do this, stop the drill and scrub the bit with an old toothbrush.

STEP 5: Squirt a small puddle of glue on a scrap of wood or cardboard. Roll the end of the lead in the glue, then work it back and forth in the hole to spread the adhesive.

STEP 6: Trim the lead by breaking it sideways against the twig. Let the glue dry overnight.

STEP 7: Sharpen the pencil with a sharp utility knife or pocketknife. Whittle away from your body, removing thin shavings as you work around the pencil. Use your imagination to personalize your pencil, or simply enjoy the colors and textures that nature provides.

Recycle empty bottles and jugs into these fun and useful projects.

1. Ten-Minute Bird Feeder

Cut four holes two inches from the bottom on each side of a half-gallon milk jug. Below each hole, make a small hole and poke dowels or sticks through the feeder. Ask an adult to drill a small hole in the cap.

Attach a string or metal coat hanger, fill with birdseed and hang it up.

2. Self-Watering Planter

Cut the top third off a two-liter plastic bottle. Ask an adult to drill a small hole in the cap. Pass a string through the hole. Fill the bottom of the bottle about half way with water. Place the top upside-down in the bottom and put in your plant. The string will wick up the water into the soil.

3. Ball Toss Game

Cut the bottoms off two one-gallon milk jugs. Make a ball from rolled-up plastic grocery bags and tape. Enjoy a game of catch.

4. Quicker Berry Picker

Cut a hand-size hole opposite the handle on a one-gallon milk jug. Slide the handle onto your belt. You’re ready to pick and hold more berries.

5. Flying Saucers

Cut the bottom from a milk jug about three inches high. Cut three or four three-inch circles from the upper part of the jug. Try to sail the disks into the milk-jug bottom.

6. Garden Scoop or Boat Bailer

Cut a one-gallon milk jug at an angle as shown. This is great for spreading compost or removing water from a boat.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED

• Utility knife
• Tape
• Saw
• Drill
• Roofing nails
• Glue
• 2 sheets of corrugated cardboard, 7 1/2 inches by 30 inches
• 2 2-by-2-by-12-inch connector boards
• Piece of poster board large enough to cover the bottom of the cooker
• 12-inch-wide aluminum foil
• 2 1-by-1-by-13 1/2-inch wood uprights
• Small wooden dowl, sharpened at one end

WHAT YOU’LL DO

Step 1. Using the utility knife, cut a curve from the two pieces of cardboard.

Step 2. Connect the curves together using the 12-inch connecting boards, glue and roofing nails.

Step 3. Bend the poster board over the curves, mark with a pencil and cut to size. Glue and tape in place.

Step 4. Spread glue evenly onto the poster board. Carefully glue down the aluminum foil. Make it as smooth as possible.

Step 5. Drill a hole in one upright, cut a notch on the other and glue in place.

Step 6. Aim the cooker at the sun, skewer your hot dogs, and get the rolls and mustard.

HOW IT WORKS

The sun reflects heat off the parabolic curve and concentrates it at a single point.

Cave paintings have been around for thousands of years. Light up your own bedroom “cave” with this torn-paper lamp shade.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED

• Old lamp shade (light colored, preferably white)
• Junk mail (uncoated paper with no printing)
• Brown paper grocery bag
• Glue
• Sponge or cloth
• Used coffee grounds
• Scissors
• Paintbrush
• Pencil
• Shallow baking pans

WHAT YOU’LL DO

Step 1: Tear junk mail into different shapes.

Step 2: Wrinkle the paper, flatten it out in the pan and rub wet coffee grounds into it. With a sponge or damp cloth, rub away any leftover grounds.

Step 3: While the paper is still damp, brush white glue on the back and press the torn paper onto the lamp shade. Make sure there are no bubbles or loose edges. Apply more paper, overlapping pieces as you go. Allow more than 1/2 inch of paper to protrude beyond the top and bottom. Continue until you cover the entire shade.

Step 4: Cut away the excess paper from the top and bottom of the shade, leaving a clean 1/2-inch overlap. Create tabs by making vertical cuts every 1/2 inch around the top and bottom of the shade.

Brush extra glue on the inside of the tabs and fold them over the shade. Work around the shade, pressing the tabs down until they stay in place.

Option: You can punch holes and thread heavy string around the top and bottom.

Step 5: Draw your cave drawings on a brown grocery bag. Carefully tear out the drawings. Wrinkle them up, smooth them out and dampen them with a sponge or cloth. Brush glue on the back and paste onto your lamp shade.

Step 6: Brush a coat of glue over the entire lamp shade and let it dry. Turn on your lamp, and your room instantly looks like a fire-lit cave.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED

• Saw
• Wood glue
• Sandpaper
• Tape
• Paint or oil finish
• 16-inch-long board, 1 inch thick and at least 3 inches wide

WHAT YOU’LL DO

Step 1: Cut 27 1-inch-cube blocks

Step 2: Sand each piece

Step 3: Assemble and glue the 7 separate shapes A through G as shown. Use tape to hold the pieces together until they are dry.

Step 4: After the glue dries, remove tape and do a final sanding of the 7 puzzle pieces.

Step 5: Oil or paint the shapes.

TO PLAY

See if you can assemble the pieces into a cube. In addition to building the cube, you can click here to learn to make other Soma structures.

THE SECRET TO BUILDING THE CUBE

Step 1: Make a mesh container from a piece of fiberglass window screen. Roll it into a tube with overlapping ends. Staple the tube together leaving a two-inch opening to slip fireflies through. Cap off each end with a plastic lid and duct tape.

Step 2: To use a female decoy firefly to catch males, connect the leads from a green LED light to two six-foot lengths of insulated copper wire. Attach one of the wires to a 9-volt battery. To make your “female firefly” flash, touch the second wire to the battery. Keep the light six feet away from you. (Fireflies avoid humans.)

To crack the fireflies’ code, watch a female in the grass answer a flying male’s signal. Note how long she waits before flashing a response. With your LED light inside an open container, mimic the female’s pattern.

Step 3: Put any males that arrive into your lantern. At least 40 fireflies per lantern should give you plenty of light. Release them, unharmed, the next day.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED

• Ruler
• Tracing paper and tape
• Power drill
• Saw
• Awl and hammer
• Anvil pruning shears
• Fine-tipped permanent marker
• Wood glue
• Screws
• 3 10-inch-by-10-inch-by-3⁄4-inch boards
• 2 small wooden door knobs
• 4 hinges
• 1 latch
• Drill bit slightly larger than game pegs
• 1 package of wooden skewers
• Enough pine scraps to make the ships
• Sandpaper
• Red paint

WHAT YOU’LL DO

The Boards:

1. With lines spaced 3⁄4-inches apart, mark out a 71⁄2-by-71⁄2-inch grid on all three game boards. The center, vertical board has a grid with holes on both sides. The side boards have a grid only.

2. Tape tracing paper over your grid and draw diagonal lines as shown. Use an awl to punch starter holes for drilling.

3. Drill 1⁄4-inch-deep holes in the center of each square.

4. Use decals or a fine-tipped permanent marker to label the vertical squares A through J and the horizontal squares 1 through 10.

5. Attach the vertical board to the base with wood glue and screws.

6. After all the grids are complete and the holes are drilled, attach the knobs and give the boards an oil finish.

7. Put it all together using the 4 hinges.

The Pegs:

1. Use the pruning shears to cut the skewers into 3⁄4-inch pegs. You’ll need at least 140 pegs.

2. Paint 40 of them red.

The Ships:

• Fashion 2 sets of 5 ships from scraps of pine.
• Drill the 1⁄4-inch-deep holes before cutting out the ships.
• Make 2 ships 3 3⁄4 inches long with 5 holes.
• Make 2 ships 3 inches long with 4 holes.
• Make 2 ships 2 1⁄4 inches long with 3 holes.
• Make 4 ships 1 1⁄2 inches long with 2 holes.
• Sand the ship bottoms smooth.

Get ship templates at www.boyslife.org/links/shiptemplates. You can also make the ships from plastic clay.

TO PLAY

Players place ships on the grids of their individual boards. One player calls out a coordinate on the grid. If it’s a hit, he goes again. A miss means it’s the other player’s turn. Red pegs are used to track hits and natural-colored pegs to track misses. Whoever sinks all their opponent’s ships first wins.

The mixture of the two brought about the musical traditions that have become uniquely American, including the blues, bluegrass, country, ragtime and Dixieland.

Here’s how you can make music with a simple banjo of your own:

WHAT YOU’LL NEED

• large plastic container (2 to 4 quart)
• scissors
• 30-by-1-by-2-inch wood strip
• hammer
• two 1-inch nails
• 2 screw eyes
• 3 yards nylon fishing line
• two, 3/4-by-2-by-1/4-inch pieces of wood
• saw
• sandpaper

WHAT YOU’LL DO

Step 1: Cut off the top half of the plastic container. Discard the top. Cut two trap-door flaps on opposite sides of the container. These flaps should be about one inch above the bottom of the container and about the size of the wood strip, which will be the “neck” of the banjo. Slip the wood strip through the trap doors; the fit should be fairly tight.

Step 2: Hammer the nails in side by side at the very end of the neck of the banjo on the end closer to the container. Only about 1/4 inch of the nails should be showing. Next screw the screw eyes into the opposite end of the neck, leaving them partially unscrewed (you will tighten them later).

Step 3: Tie pieces of the fishing line between the nails and screw eyes, and knot them so that they are very secure.

Step 4: Take one of the smaller pieces of wood (this piece will make the “bridge”) and insert it under the strings at the point where the strings cross the center of the bottom of the plastic container. Cut string-size grooves in the bridge so that the strings can sit securely on the bridge.

Step 5: Place the other small pieces of wood under the strings next to the screw eyes. This will give the strings extra tension. In order to tighten the strings, screw the screw eyes in tighter. Strings should be tight for maximum resonance.

Project adapted from “Great Civil War Projects You Can Build Yourself” by Maxine Anderson, published by Nomad Press. 

KEY RACK

What you’ll need:

• wire cutters
• needle-nose pliers
• hammer
• 1⁄2-inch-diameter dowel
• adjustable jig (Jig plans are below.)
• 70-inch length of 12-gauge wire
• 24-inch length of 12-gauge wire
• 2 8-foot lengths of 17-gauge wire
• approximately 30 feet of 24-gauge wire
• 5 feet of 18-gauge wire

What you’ll do:

1. Frame and Hooks: Bend a 70-inch piece of 12-gauge wire. Shape the hooks with needle-nose pliers.
2. Inside: Make a 3-by-7-inch rectangle out of 12-gauge wire. Use 17-gauge wire and an adjustable jig to create a design to fit inside. Center this rectangle inside the frame.
3. Then make another design to fill the space between them. Solder or use 24-gauge wire to secure it all together.
4. Trim: Wrap 5 feet of 18-gauge wire around a 1⁄2-inch-diameter dowel. Slide the wire from the dowel and gently flatten the loops with a hammer, then stretch them slightly.Attach along the outside edge with 24-gauge wire.

FOLDER HOLDER

What you’ll need:

• linesman pliers
• superglue
• 1 22-inch length, 2 16-inch lengths and 3 28-inch lengths of 6-gauge copper wire
• approximately 25 feet of 24-gauge wire

What you’ll do:

1. Front: Bend the ends of a 22-inch length of 6-gauge copper wire into two spirals.
2. Bottom: Cut two 16-inch lengths with linesman pliers. Measure in 3 inches from the front and 4 inches from the back, and bend at right angles.
3. Attach these base wires to the front spiral piece by wrapping with 24-gauge wire.
4. Center: Cut two or three 28-inch lengths for the racks. Bend as shown.
5. Bind each rack to the base at 2-inch intervals.
6. Add a drop of superglue to each joint.

LETTER BASKET

What you’ll need:

• linesman pliers
• needle-nose pliers
• file
• adjustable jig (jig plans are below)
• 8 twist ties
• 25-inch, 23-inch and 18-inch pieces of 12-gauge wire
• 6-foot and 4-foot lengths of 17-gauge wire
• 10-foot length of 17-gauge or heavier wire
• 25 feet of 24-gauge wire

What you’ll do:

1. Rims: Make three ovals from 25-inch, 23-inch and 18-inch pieces of 12-gauge wire. File ends flat and smooth.
2. Bottom: Using an adjustable jig and the 6-foot length of 17-gauge wire, make a pattern to fill the smallest oval. Weave it into place with a piece of thread-like 24-gauge wire.
3. Create a second pattern to fill the space between the smallest and middle-sized ovals from the 4-foot length of wire. Secure it fi rst to the inner rim, then the outer.
4. Sides: Use the 10-foot length of 17-gauge or heavier wire to make a 27-inch-long, 3-inch-high pattern on the adjustable jig. Form the side of the basket by temporarily binding it to the outer bottom rim and top rims with twist ties.
5. Use 24-gauge wire to permanently attach it.

This pattern can be adapted to create different size baskets.

PEN AND PENCIL CADDY

What you’ll need:

• wire cutters
• needle-nose pliers
• 8 6-inch lengths and 2 12-inch lengths of 16-gauge wire
• 2 5-inch pieces of fine wire for binding
• empty frozen juice container
• soldering iron
• solder
• tape
• flux (substance that helps the solder flow and prevents oxidation of the metal)

What you’ll do:

1. Cut eight 6-inch lengths of 16-gauge wire. Use needle-nose pliers to bend the top inch of each into a spiral.
2. Tape the vertical pieces around an empty frozen juice container.
3. Tightly wrap the two 12-inch lengths of wire around the design, a few inches apart. Temporarily bind their ends together with fine wire, leaving space to solder.
4. Wherever two pieces of metal overlap, brush with flux and solder together with a soldering iron.
5. Slide your design off the juice can and trim the bottom ends.
6. Use the juice can bottom as the base.
7. Fold the vertical wires under the juice can bottom.

WASTEBASKET

To make a matching waste paper basket, just scale up the pen and pencil holder. You’ll have to use thicker wire (try 10 gauge) and increase the number of times the design repeats. For the base, remove the bottom of a large catering-sized can with tin snips.

A JIG OF YOUR OWN

An adjustable jig is the way to go when bending wire patterns. Wrap wire around its movable pegs to quickly and accurately make patterned ribbons. To make one, draw a 1⁄2-inch grid on the surface of a flat 6-by-12-inch piece of wood. Where lines intersect, drill 3⁄8-inch-deep holes with a 7⁄64-inch drill bit. To keep their depth uniform, mark the drill bit with a piece of tape. Make patterns by slipping 2-inch 6d finish nails into the holes. Wrap wire around the nails, then slip the pattern off the jig.

WHICH WIRE?

Not sure which wire to use? Aluminum, copper and annealed steel wire are all common and easy to work with. Galvanized steel wire doesn’t rust as easily as the black annealed type, but it’s also harder to bend. You can find a variety of wire types and gauges in hardware, craft and garden stores. Mix and match to

customize the look of your project.

WORKING WITH SOLDER

• Never worked with a soldering iron before? Remember: Safety first. Ask an adult who knows to show you how.
• Some wires have a coating that needs to be scrubbed with a wire brush and soap before they can be soldered.

Visitors to Boyslife.org were curious about how to build the mailbox stove that was depicted in the November issue of Boys’ Life (“Come And Get It!”).

You ask for it, you got it. We got the guys from Troop 33, Charlotte, N.C., to show us how you can make your own stove.

Expect to spend at least half a day building (less if an adult uses power tools to speed some of the cutting) and between $60 and $80 on supplies (cut costs by recycling damaged metal mailboxes and by using nuts, bolts and washers already on hand).

The mailbox stoves lets Troop 33 bake, simmer and stay warm on windy days when campfires aren’t practical.

“It looks very complicated, but once you get started, one thing follows the next and it comes together pretty easily,” said Scout Rob Hagan, 15. “Once you get the hang of working with the tools and materials, you can make it pretty fast.”

MATERIALS:

• Jumbo steel mailbox ST20 series
• Elite steel mailbox regular size
• ½ grid galvanized wire screen (about 1-2 square feet)
• Three 36-inch-long all-thread metal rods (1/4 inch – 20 tpi)
• White marking tool, such as a white grease pencil or crayon
• Black permanent marker
• Four ¼-inch bolts approximately one inch long.
• ½-pound box of ¼-inch nuts
• ½-pound box of No. 8 deck screws 2-1/2 inch long
• ½-pound box of ¼-inch washers
• 1/8-inch aluminum strip 2 inches tall by 13 inches long (Note: This is for the temperature-control catch/handle. It can also be made of 1/16-inch steel by adults in a workshop.)
• .025-inch thick sheet metal 12 inches by 18 inches
• Wooden handle for temperature-control catch. Can be made from 1-inch diameter hardwood.
• Large metal clip, such as a spring clip, to hold door closed while cooking
• Cooking thermometer used for grills (must have locking nut to hold instrument in place)
• Furnace cement (black)
• Corner “L” bracket approximately 1-inch by 1-inch by ¾ inch wide
• Cabinet or drawer handle (not plastic)
• 9×9-inch metal grate to sit atop the smaller box opening when cooking.

TOOLS:

• Power drill
• 5/16-inch heavy-duty drill bit
• 1/8-inch heavy-duty drill bit
• 2-1/2-inch wood/metal hole saw
• Jigsaw with metal-cutting blade
• Power screwdriver
• Vice to hold rods while cutting
• Putty knife
• Flat metal file
• Tape measure
• Hacksaw
• Ruler
• Hammer
• Center punch
• Two 7/16-inch open wrenches
• Pliers
• Tin snips
• Safety glasses

DIRECTIONS:

Step 1. On bottom of smaller box, measure and mark (using white grease pencil) 16 inches away from side that opens. Center equal distance from edges. This will become the air intake hole.

Step 2. On side of box, measure and mark a parallel line 14 inches from open end. Mark line at two inches, four inches and six inches from bottom. Repeat on other side of box.

Step 3. Using center punch and hammer, tap each mark to create a small dent (to keep drill bit from slipping). Drill holes using 5/16-inch bit.

Step 4. On right side of front door (flag side), center corner brace on door three inches from bottom and flush to right side. Mark then drill with 5/16-inch bit.

Step 5. Use hole bit to cut air-intake hole in back of mailbox (where previously marked). Empty shavings from box.

Step 6. Cut steel rods using hacksaw to 6-5/8 inches long (cut three) and 11-1/2 inches long (cut six). File smooth with hand file. Each rod will take four nuts.

Step 7. Insert three smaller bolts through holes in sides of small box and secure with nuts. Note: Rods with nuts should not extend out past ¼ inch on each side.

Step 8. Laying ½-inch galvanized screen atop mouth of small mailbox, trace shape using permanent marker. Cut two shapes using tin snips. Push into box to rest upon rods.

Step 9. Against bottom edge of large box, draw perpendicular lines at 2 inches, 7 inches and 13 inches from opening side. Then mark at 3 inches and 7 inches up line from bottom. Tap with hammer and center punch to dent slightly, then drill with 5/16 bit.

Step 10. Measure location of air-intake hole on the bottom of the small mailbox and apply same distance to back end of large box. Use hole drill to cut.

Step 11. Mark centerline on top of both boxes. Using these lines as guides, set smaller box atop larger box and trace outline of shape. Have adult partner drill a pilot hole with 5/16 bit, then cut box using jigsaw. Save leftover piece.

Step 12. Using pliers, open hole slightly (as necessary) to insert smaller box into larger box. The air intake holes should line up.

Step 13. Once fitted together, use the 1/8 drill bit to drill six holes randomly in the bottom of the large box and into the smaller box. Screw a deck screw into each hole in order to secure the two boxes together.

Step 14. Trace a 4-inch-by-6-inch square in the center of the scrap piece cut from the large box. Include a one-inch-wide tongue at the top. This will become the handle used to slide the air-intake door open and closed. Hammer flat. Cut with tin snips or jig saw (adult). Dress with file to smooth edges. Save leftover pieces.

Step 15. Trace an outline of the door around the air-intake hole. Mark area for deck screws to be placed to hold door in place along door’s edges. Drill holes with 1/8 drill through both boxes, then install deck screws. Fit door in place.

Step 16. Using one of the leftover pieces trimmed from the air-intake door, measure the width of the gap space between the bottom of the small box and the rear of the large box. Trim with tin snips, adjust as necessary with pliers and insert gently into space. Piece should hold itself into place.

Step 17. Bend sheet metal horizontally to replicate the curve of the smaller box. Insert into larger box, along front edge of smaller box. Sheet becomes a shield to evenly distribute the heat inside of the oven.

Step 18. Insert the six 11-1/2-inch rods into the holes in the side of the large box, securing each rod with four nuts (two nuts on each rod on the inside of box, two nuts on rod on outside of box).

Step 19. Trace pattern onto aluminum strip. Drill pilot holes in each of the curved areas using 5/16 bit. Use hacksaw to remove pieces to form teeth. Bend handle forward at 90-degree angle, with teeth on the right.

Step 20. Through flag hole on the right side of small box, create a catch for the lid arm. Leaving about a quarter-inch of space on the shaft of the bolt, secure it using a washer and nut on the outside of the box and another washer and nut on the inside of the box.

Step 21. Attach corner bracket to right hand side of door on smaller box using the hole drilled in step 4. Attach in this order: Bolt, washer, corner brace, mailbox, washer, locking washer, and nut.

Step 22. Attach aluminum arm to the corner brace in this order: Bolt, washer, aluminum arm, washer, corner brace, washer, nut, jam nut. The jam nut helps keep the other nut from working loose. Note: Secure arm in place loosely, so it can easily move up and down.

Step 23. Attach clip to top front of large mailbox. Drill a hole for bolt, if necessary. Adjust clip and attachment to allow clip to hold door shut securely. Note: Clips with flatter profiles are easier to work with than the spring clip shown in photo.

Step 24. Mark and drill holes to secure drawer handle to front of door on large box. Insert grill thermometer at top of door (drilling hole, if necessary) and secure in place with nut.

Step 25. Seal joints, holes and gaps using a generous amount of furnace putty. This seals the heat into the oven and binds the two boxes together so the heat can’t escape. Allow to harden overnight before using the oven.

TO OPERATE:

Fuel oven through “chimney,” or the smaller box sticking upright. Fuel through the mouth of the smaller box onto the screens sitting inside.

Start with paper and small wood shavings to help the fire catch. Slowly add larger and larger shavings and splinters to help the fire grow. When ready, fuel with small blocks of wood. Soft woods, like pine, help the fire burn quickly. Hardwoods, like oak, create nice coals that create consistent heat. You can also burn pinecones and other yard debris.

“Just slide this door up and down to let in more air to help the flames burn, or to lower the air intake to take down the fire a little,” says 15-year-old Scout Rob Hagan.

Control the oven temperature by opening and closing the door of the small box. Closing the door increases the oven heat and vice versa. With practice, you’ll be able to control the temperature while you cook.

Use a small cookie sheet to bake inside the oven. Set a skillet or pot atop the 9×9 grate set atop the mouth of the smaller box.

Enjoy your meal!

• One 3.5-ounce jar of strained-meat baby food (no salt added), beef or veal recommended.
• 1/2 cup powdered skim milk
• 3/4 cup wheat germ

REGULAR OVEN DIRECTIONS

Step 1: In a cold oven, move rack to top third of oven. Preheat to 275 degrees.

Step 2: Lightly grease a cookie sheet with butter or cooking oil (spray-on oil works well).

Step 3: Mix ingredients in a medium-size bowl.

Step 4: Scoop morsels out of the bowl with teaspoon-size measuring spoon. Fill the teaspoon evenly, not heaping.

Step 5: Drop morsels onto greased cookie sheet about one-half inch apart. (They don’t spread while cooking as regular cookies do.)

Step 6: Bake for 11 to 12 minutes, but watch carefully so the bottoms don’t get too brown.

Step 7: Remove from the oven and place pan on wire rack to cool. Makes approximately 45 doggie cookies.

MICROWAVE OVEN DIRECTIONS

Place a small number of morsels on waxed paper on a plate and cover with another plate turned upside down. Microwave on high 2 to 4 minutes,depending on power of microwave. Take top plate off as treats cool or they might get soggy. Let the treats cool completely. Store in the refrigerator in an airtight container for up to 10 days. Put extras in plastic bags in the freezer for up to two months. Thaw in the refrigerator before using.

TEACH YOUR DOG A NEW TRICK

Use your treats to teach your dog to spin around.

• Each training session for a new trick shouldn’t last much longer than five minutes. Try another five-minute session later in the day to refresh the dog’s memory.
• With both of you standing, face your dog.
• Hold a treat in front of your dog’s nose without letting him touch it.
• Have the dog follow the treat around in a tight circle. Go in the same direction each time.
• When the dog completes the circle, give it the treat and lots of praise.
• After some practice, hold the treat so the dog can see it and say, “Spin,” but don’t lead the dog around in a circle. If he starts to turn in a circle by himself, praise him verbally until the trick is finished and only then give the food reward.
• In a couple of days, your dog will spin as soon as you bring out the treat.

But present those same materials to a pioneering expert and you’ll get chairs, tables, bridges and all kinds of equipment that’s useful in the outdoors.

Here’s how to build three items — a chair, a flagpole and a table — that could be useful around camp. Click on the pictures for detailed instructions and how-to videos.

Build a flagpole

Show your colors by building a flagpole for your camp.

Build a camp table

Keep your stuff out of the dirt by building a table for your camp.

Build a camp chair

Relax around camp by building a comfortable chair.

The art of photography was only 21 years old when the Civil War started, but it was already hugely popular. For the first time, middle-class Americans were able to have their portraits taken, because photographs were much less expensive than paintings.

Before they left for the war, many Civil War soldiers had their portraits taken by traveling photographers or small photography studios, usually using a type of photography known as ambrotype. Ambrotypes were one-of-a-kind images made on glass or metal and stored in small glass-covered cases.

Photographers not only took portraits of soldiers, they also traveled to camps and battlegrounds. Most of these photographs used a wet-plate negative: a glass plate chemically treated, then exposed to the image from 5 to 30 seconds, creating a negative that could be printed on multiple pieces of paper.

Civil War photographers were not out on the battlefield as fighting was happening; the photographic equipment was bulky and delicate, and the process of exposing and developing the images made it virtually impossible to take action shots.

What photographers did instead was to photograph the battlefield after fighting had ended, often before wounded or dead soldiers could be removed to field hospitals. Field photographers were known to rearrange dead bodies on the battlefield to make their shots look more dramatic.

Here’s how you can make your own Pinhole Camera, much like the ones Civil War photographers used.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED:

• Film—one cartridge of 110-size color film
• Ruler
• Thick corrugated cardboard
• Scissors
• Knife
• Black tape
• Black paper or black paint
• Aluminum foil
• Pencil
• Straight pin or sewing needle
• Two large rubber bands
• Dime or nickel

WHAT YOU’LL DO:

1. Cut the cardboard to 5 3⁄4 inches long and 1 1⁄4 inches wide. Then measure four equal sections 1 7⁄8 inches wide. Use a knife to cut the cardboard slightly (not all the way through) so that it’s easier to fold.

   
   Fold the cardboard into a box and tape it with black tape. Using the black paper, make a lining for the inside of your box.




2. Insert the box into the film cartridge, with one of the open sides of the box toward the film cartridge (so that the film cartridge creates a fifth side of the cube). This should be a snug fit.




3. To create the front of the camera, cut another rectangle of cardboard, 2 3⁄4 inches by 1 1⁄2 inches. Line this piece with black paper or paint as well.
   Cut a 1⁄2-inch square hole in the center of this piece of cardboard and tape a 1-inch square of aluminum foil over the hole. Punch a small hole in the foil with the pin, being careful to make it as small as possible.




4. Fasten the front of the camera to the rest of the camera with two strong rubber bands.




5. Make sure that no light is leaking into your camera. Use the black tape to cover any holes.




6. When you aren’t taking a picture, the hole must be covered by a piece of black paper. Tape paper over the hole or create some kind of shutter that slides across the hole.




7. Use the dime or nickel to advance the film, turning it counterclockwise. There is a small window on the side of the film cartridge that will indicate the advancing of the film. The film will be in proper position when the numbers 3 and 4 show up.

HOW TO TAKE A PICTURE:

• Make sure that the camera is stable; the best pictures will be produced when the camera doesn’t move when the film is being exposed. Set it on a solid surface.
• Experiment with different exposure times. One to three seconds should work, but, depending on the amount of sun or light that is available, this time could change. (The film might have a recommended exposure time on it.)
• Cover the pinhole with black paper after each exposure.
• To ensure you get a decent image, take your picture two or three times with different exposure times. The technique of taking three exposures—one with the recommended exposure time, one with twice the time and one with half the time—is called bracketing.

Adapted from “Great Civil War Projects You Can Build Yourself” by Maxine Anderson, published by Nomad Press.

When current flows through the motor’s rotor coil, it generates a magnetic field. (Picture an invisible magnet extending through the center of the ring-like rotor coil.) When you put a permanent magnet near the rotor, the rotor will try to align itself so that the north pole of the “invisible magnet” will face the south pole of the permanent magnet (or vice versa). If the current is turned off before alignment occurs (but while the rotor is still turning), the invisible magnet will cease to exist and momentum will cause the center of the rotor to swing past the permanent magnet. Eventually friction will bring the rotor to a standstill.

If the electrical current is restarted at just the right time, the invisible magnet will re-form and the rotor will continue to spin. This on-off-on-off pattern of the invisible magnet drives the rotor like a small “putt-putt” boat motor.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED

• 2 Paper clips
• 4 Tacks
• 1 Soft wood block, 5 inches long
• 2 Small round magnets
• 1 15-inch length of lacquered bell wire (we used 26-gauge wire)
• Nail polish (any color!)
• Needle-nose pliers
• Sandpaper
• Masking tape
• White glue or hot glue gun
• Magic marker or a half-inch diameter dowel
• 1.5-volt flashlight battery (you might need two batteries)

WHAT YOU’LL DO

Step 1: Rotor Assembly

A) Using the sandpaper, scrape one inch of lacquer insulation from each end of the bell wire. This is a critical step.

B) Wrap the wire around the marker or dowel, leaving one inch of each wire end extending from the resulting coil. Use a bit of masking tape to keep the coil from unraveling. The two wire ends must be aligned in a straight line passing through the center of the coil.

C) Holding the rotor so the coil is vertical, coat the upper half of one of the wire ends with nail polish. Set aside until the nail polish is thoroughly dried. The nail polish will control the flow of current through the coil as the rotor spins, turning the invisible magnet on and off at just the right time.

Step 2: Base Assembly

A) Using the needle-nose pliers, bend the two paper clips into the shape shown here.

B) Using white glue or a hot glue gun, glue one of the magnets onto the center of the wooden block. When the glue has dried, place the second magnet on top of the glued magnet.

C) Attach the two bent paper clips to the wooden block on either side of the magnets using the tacks. The upright parts of the paper clips should be about 1 1/2 inches apart.

Step 3: Final Assembly

A) Carefully insert the wire ends of the rotor through the loops of the upper parts of the paper clips.

B) Run a wire from one of the paper clips to the positive terminal of a flashlight battery. Run a second wire from the other paper clip to the negative terminal of the battery. The rotor should start to spin after being gently flicked with a finger.

TROUBLESHOOTING

This motor is not a precision device, so it might be necessary to fiddle with it in order to get it to work. If the rotor does not spin or spins poorly, try the following:

A) Check the charge on the battery. You might need to connect two 1.5-volt batteries together to get enough power. Never connect more than three volts to your motor.

B) Check the wires connecting the battery terminals to the paper clips. Hint: An easy way to connect the motor to the battery is to use wires fitted with alligator clips, as we did here. Alligator clips can be purchased at hardware stores and electronic outlets.

C) Check the wires extending from the rotor for insulation. If a poor job was done removing the insulation in Step 1, current will not flow in the rotor and the magnetic field will not form.

D) Check the inside loops of the paper clips for dirt, especially if the rotor was inserted before the nail polish dried. Dirt will block the flow of current through the rotor.

E) Check distance of the rotor from the magnet. When the rotor coil is turned vertical to the face of the magnet, the distance between the coil edge and the magnet should be less than 1/8 of an inch. Bend the upper sections of the paper clips slightly to bring the coil closer to the magnet.

F) Center the coil over the magnet. Reposition the coil by bending the upper sections of the paper clips.

WHAT TO DO:

• Pick starters. Starter fish are more able to adapt to a new tank. Zebra Danios, White Clouds, and Platys are great starters.
• Pick fish that get along with each other. For example, don’t stick two male betas together; they will fight. Also, think twice if you want to add cichlids – they’re territorial. Labyrinth fish such as Gourami are calm.
• Remove chlorine from the water. Buy water-cleaning drops at the pet store.
• Regularly check the water temperature with an aquarium thermometer.
• Do partial water changes to keep the water clean and your fish healthy. Don’t change all the water at once. Your fish might have trouble adapting in there is too much change.
• Use the right equipment for cleaning – bucket, net, filter and siphon.

WHAT NOT TO DO:

• Don’t overfeed.
• Don’t put things in the tank unless you are sure they are safe. Some woods and rocks can be bad for your fish. Never use meal. Shells aren’t safe for most tanks, either.
• Don’t put your tank in a window or next to an air conditioner or heater.
• Don’t buy fish from dirty tanks or ones that have sick or dead fish in them.
• Don’t buy only one of a “schooling fish.” These like to be in groups. Neon Tetras, Zebra Danios and Tiger Barbs are schooling fish.
• Don’t make stops when bringing your fish home. Get it home and into its new environment as quickly as possible.
• Don’t put fish in the tank right away. Float the bag in the tank for about 10 minutes so the temperature matches better.
• Don’t add too many fish at one time.
• Don’t buy fish before you set up your tank.

WHAT TO ASK AT THE STORE:

• How big will the fish grow?
• How many fish can you keep in your aquarium? (This depends on the size and kind of fish you buy, and the size of your tank.)
• What do the fish eat?
• Do the fish need a heater?

CHECK OUT THESE FUN AQUARIUM WEB SITES:

The Shedd Aquarium: www.shedd.org

The Monterey Bay Aquarium: www.mbayaq.org/lc

WHAT YOU’LL NEED:

• Drill with 1/8- and 1/4-inch bits
• Tin snips or shears
• Awl or nail
• Sandpaper
• Source of heat (hair dryer or heat gun)
• Section of very thin plywood (1/88 inch, like veneer) 4 inches wide by 4 feet long
• 1 sheet of rawhide about 24 inches square
• 12-inch leather lace
• 4 to 6 feet of stout cord such as artificial sinew or masonry cord
• Oil-based paint

WHAT YOU’LL DO:

STEP 1: Sand plywood until the edges are smooth. Soak the plywood in water overnight or until it bends easily without splitting or breaking (this might take longer than one night).

STEP 2: Gently bend plywood into a circle about 14 inches in diameter (heating the wood with a hair dryer will help it bend). The edges will overlap several inches. Tie the circle together around the overlaps with string or rope — anything that will keep it together. Set aside to dry about two days in a warm, dry area out of the sun. This is the body of the drum.

STEP 3: With the 1/8-inch bit, drill a series of holes where there is an overlap. Two holes near the beginning of the overlap and two near the end will work. Thread cordage through the holes three times and tie them on the inside with square knots. This holds the drum’s shape. Now you can remove the material you used to tie the wood together.

STEP 4: Lay the drum on the rawhide and draw a pencil outline two inches wider than the diameter of the circle. Draw four tabs about two inches long, equally spaced around the perimeter. Cut around outlined rawhide, including the four tabs, and soak in water overnight.

STEP 5: Cut as many 1/4-inch-wide strips as the remaining rawhide allows. You might need all of them, but probably not. Make these “rawhide thongs” as long as you can. Soak them in water. Once the thin rawhide bends easily, it’s time to use the thongs for tying. Pierce two holes in each of the four tabs about one-third of an inch from the edge. Then punch holes around the edge of the rawhide the same distance from the edge.

STEP 6: Take a thong and feed it through the holes in the tab; then go to the opposite tab and feed the thong through those holes. Slowly pull as tightly as you can and tie securely. Repeat with the other tabs. It should now look like an “X” on the underside of the drum.

STEP 7: Start at one of the tabs and thread a thong through a hole, then the next hole and tie a knot. Continually thread thongs through the holes and pull as tightly as possible until you complete the circle of the drumhead and arrive at the tab you started from. Then wrap the cords of the underside as tightly as you can.

STEP 8: Let the drum dry. It will shrink. Do not play until it is hard. If you try to play it too early, the tone will be dull. When it’s dry, add a handle. Drill two holes with the 1/4-inch bit on the side, spaced about four inches from each other. Use soft leather lace and tie on the inside.

STEP 9: Paint a design. Let dry. Use a soft-headed drumstick for playing.

Construct the ship outside the bottle and attach the sails face down with hinges. Slip the ship inside the bottle. With a pull of a string, the ship’s sails pop up.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED:

• Raingutter Regatta kit (BSA Supply No. 17090, 1-800-323-0732, www.boyslife.org/links/scoutstuff)
• Plastic 3-liter soft drink container
• Bamboo skewer or 1⁄8-inch dowel
• Hobby basswood
• Black and tan quilting thread
• Florist’s wire
• Tissue paper
• Straight pins
• Shellac
• Blue paint
• White glue
• Epoxy
• Sandpaper

WHAT YOU’LL USE:

• Knife
• Scissors
• Tweezers
• Pin vise drill
• Nail clippers
• Paintbrush
• Cotton swabs
• Steel ruler
• Pencil

WHAT YOU’LL DO:

STEP 1: Remove the label from the 3-liter bottle. Clean it inside and out. Paint a rectangular section (long ways) about 2 1⁄2 inches by 7 inches on the inside. This will be the water.

STEP 2: Cut the sides off the raingutter regatta hull so the remaining hull is 1 inch wide. Glue the discarded pieces to the outside of the bottle as a base.

STEP 3: Cut the bottom off the hull so it is 1⁄2 inch deep. It should now fit through the mouth of the bottle. Cut off the hull in front of the mast hole, and shape the hull so that it looks like a ship above the waterline. Round the bottom corners of the hull. Sand and seal with shellac.

STEP 4: Cut the mast from your raingutter regatta kit so that one piece is 3 3⁄4 inches long. This will be your model’s mast. Use the rest for the bowsprit (the thing that sticks out in front of the ship). Drill a small hole near the bottom of the mast and near the end of the bowsprit.

STEP 5: To get your model into the bottle, the mast has to be hinged. Take a 2-inch piece of florist’s wire and put it through the hole in the mast. Bend it into a U to make a hinge. Drill two holes in the hull, and put the wires through the holes. (Try swinging the mast up and down.) Bend any excess wire against the bottom of the hull.

STEP 6: Epoxy the bowsprit to the hull with the hole on the far end. Let it dry overnight.

STEP 7: Cut three pieces — 3 1⁄2, 2 1⁄2 and 1 1⁄2 inches — from the bamboo skewer or dowel. These sticks hold the sails. The long one (the spar) holds the main sail. The short one (the gaff) holds the top of the gaff sail. The middle one (the boom) holds the bottom of the gaff sail. Drill holes through the base of the shortest sticks.

STEP 8: Make the sails using these patterns. Make a 1⁄8-inch seam on each edge. Fold over each seam and glue. Fold the long edge of the triangular sail (the jib) over a 10-inch length of tan thread. Glue the thread inside the seam with 3 inches at either end.

STEP 9: Tie three black threads 1⁄2 inch from the mast top. Three lines will hang down on each side

(shrouds). Tie one end of a 2-foot length of black thread near the mast top (the stay).

STEP 10: Tie the long stick to the front of the mast, the shortest one to the back of the mast near the shrouds and the remaining stick to the back of the mast about 3⁄8 inch from the base. Tie a loop through the hole in the base of the two backwardpointing pieces, then tie that loop to the mast. All three sticks should swing freely.

STEP 11: Push three pins into each side of the hull behind the mast, 1⁄8 inch apart. Push a pin into each side of the hull near the stern.

STEP 12: Thread the stay through the bowsprit end hole. Pull the mast until almost upright. Wrap the thread around the end of the bowsprit 20 turns. Do not tie!

STEP 13: Tie the shrouds to the pins. Alternate sides. Make sure that the mast does not lean to one side. All lines should be taut. The mast cannot move.

STEP 14: Tie the tan thread to the sticks to keep them from moving. The piece in front of the mast, the spar, has a line running from the end of the spar to the pin at the back of the boat. The two pieces behind the mast have three lines that hold them in place. One line runs from the tip of the piece to the top of the mast. Two other lines run from the end of the stick to the sides. Tie one line on each side. Once all three lines are tied, the piece cannot move.

STEP 15: Glue the main sail and gaff sail in place. Tie the jib to the stay. Let dry overnight.

STEP 16: Unwrap the stay, and loosen it. Push the mast back. Gently fold everything along the mast. When everything is pointing straight back, your model should fit into the mouth of the bottle.

STEP 17: Spread epoxy in the bottle in the middle of the “water.” Slide the ship into the bottle and onto the epoxy. Position it with a rod. The end of the stay hangs out of the bottle. Let the glue dry.

STEP 18: Pull the stay. Watch the mast come up, and the mainsail swing out. Once the stay is taut, glue it at the bowsprit. Let dry. Cut off excess.

BUILDING A BETTER BOAT

Improve your boat’s appearance with a few tweaks.

First, taper all of the sticks. Real masts, booms, bowsprits and gaffs are thinner at the end than at the base. The spar is thinner at the end than at the middle.

Next, add detail to the hull. Most ships have a wall—called a bulwark—around the edge to keep people from falling overboard. Use cardstock, cardboard or small wooden strips to make the bulwark.

Finally, add details to the hull. Ships like this steer with a tiller. They have hatches and skylights so you can load stuff and get light below decks.

Click here for a PDF version of these instructions.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED

• Magnet wire: Electronics supply stores sell a set, for about $4, that comes with 40 feet of 22-gauge, 75 feet of 26-gauge and 200 feet of 30-gauge magnet wire.
• 1 set of alligator leads with clips at each end.
• 1 diode: Look for IN34A diodes, also called “germanium diodes,” at an electronics supply store.
• 1 glue stick or anything similar in size — about 1 inch by 1 inch by 6 inches. It can be a piece of wood. It doesn’t have to be perfectly round, but using something round is easier for winding.
• Electrical tape
• Wire stripping pliers
• Telephone handset with cord. If you don’t have an old phone that you don’t use anymore, you’ll need to buy a telephone cord, then borrow the headset long enough to make the radio work.
• One board for mounting your radio — 2 feet by 2 feet will work. You can make the radio without this, but having a workspace and a place to mount the radio makes it easier to carry around while you’re looking for a place to hook the ground wire.

WHAT YOU’LL DO

Step 1: Wind 26-gauge wire (the green magnet wire) around the glue stick until it covers nearly the entire cylinder. Keep the wire tight. Leave about six inches of wire on each end. Once you’re finished winding it, tape around both ends of the cylinder to make sure the wire holds. Then, mount the coil to the board with electrical tape.

Step 2: Strip the ends of the wire you’ve left from each end of the coil. Use wire stripping pliers or sandpaper. The wire is very thin. Removing the enamel and exposing about one inch of the wire should be easy.

Step 3: Attach the wire from the right side of the coil to one end of your diode. Tape the connection.

Step 4: Cut the end of the phone cord and strip about two inches of it. It should expose two wires. Strip those wires. Take your time; this wire is thin. (Try this tip: Before hooking up the tiny telephone cord wires, get some thicker insulated magnet wire and tape about two inches to each wire. This will make the rest of the job easier.) Attach one end of the wire to the exposed end of the diode. Tape that connection.

If your phone cord has four wires instead of two, you have to figure out which two will work. Take a 9-volt battery and place one cord against the positive (+) pole of the battery and another cord on the negative (-). When you find a combination that makes a clicking sound in the headset, you have found the two wires to use.

Step 5: Connect the second telephone wire to the green wire coming from the left side of the coil. Before taping this connection, clip one of the alligator leads to it. Tape those three wires together — the alligator lead (that’s your ground wire), the telephone wire and the wire coming from the left side of the coil.

Step 6: Make your antenna by clipping one of the remaining alligator lead wires to one end of the 22-gauge magnet wire. Leave this wire on its roll.

Step 7: Scrape a thin strip of enamel from the wire wrapped around the glue stick. You can do this with any sharp object or a piece of sandpaper.

SEE IF IT WORKS

Attach your telephone cord to its handset.

Find a good ground for the alligator wire that’s connected to the left side of your coil. A pipe going into the ground is perfect.

Unroll the antenna wire and hang it over a tree branch with help from an adult.

Touch the alligator clip that leads to your antenna wire to the top of the coil. You should be able to hear an AM radio signal.

TROUBLESHOOTING

If you can’t get any signal, it’s probably your ground wire. With permission from an adult, unscrew one bolt that holds the faceplate to a light switch or outlet. Unscrew it just enough to hook your alligator clip. Don’t remove the plate.

If you get a weak signal, it’s your antenna. If your parents have an old television antenna, hook your radio antenna wire to one of the connections on the TV antenna wire instead of running wire up a tree.

You’re ready for fishing. You’ve got everything … but bait. And no cash to buy any. Well, forget throwing money at minnows. Gather your own! It’s simple with this easy-to make trap. Here’s how:

You’ll Need:

• Two plastic soda pop bottles. The three-liter size is best, but two-liter will do.
• One woodworking nail, about 6-penny size (the exact size is unimportant).
• Some twine, kite string or something similar.
• Adult permission and/or help.

For tools, scrounge up a pair of sturdy scissors and locking pliers (such as Vise-Grip) or common slip-joint pliers. A utility knife can help with initial cuts but isn’t necessary. You’ll also need a controllable flame source — the kitchen stove is perfect.

STEP 1: Label one bottle “A” and the other “B.” Cut off the bottom one-third of bottle A and put in your home recycling bin. Leave the bottle cap on.

STEP 2: On B, cut off the neck & shoulders, close to the top of the bottle label. It should be cut just below — maybe a half inch or so — where the sides begin to straighten out. Toss the bottom and spare bottle cap in the recycling bin.

STEP 3: The remaining steps should be done near your flame source, with the pliers and nail handy. Keep a bowl with cold water nearby also. Fit funnelshaped piece (B) into the bottom of A so it points toward A’s remaining bottle cap. It should now form a nice little “cave.”

STEP 4: Holding the two bottles together firmly in your weak hand (left hand if you’re right-handed, right if you’re left-handed), turn on the flame with the other hand. Pick up the pliers with your free hand and firmly grasp the nail near its head with the pliers. Carefully hold the nail over the flame so that it gets good and hot.

STEP 5: Keeping your grip on both the A and B bottle parts and the hot nail in the pliers, push the nail point through both the funnel and bottle, in 10 to 12 spots around the lip of the “cave” that we mentioned. Drop the hot nail into the cold water.

STEP 6: Using your string or twine, sew the two bottle parts together. Alternately, simply cut the string into short pieces, using the same number of pieces as there are holes, and individually tie each hole up so that the two plastic parts A and B don’t come apart.

STEP 7: Reheat the nail as in Step 4, and put a bunch of holes all over the sides of the bottle (A). A couple of dozen should do it.

Setting Your Minnow Trap

To use your trap, add some bread or cracker bits through the funnel (B). Sink the trap in your favorite pond or lake for a few hours, preferably overnight. Tie it securely to a dock or tree. The minnows will go in the trap but aren’t smart enough to get out. Next morning, simply open the bottle cap and pour the minnows into your bait bucket. You’re all set for a day of fishing!

Wing nuts, anchor caps, bolts, washers and a few other odd pieces of specialty hardware are all you need to make your own version of the “tool chess” set.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED AND HOW YOU’LL DO IT

Total cost: an hour’s time and less than $10. And if you ever lose a piece, you can make another for next to nothing!

Remember: You need a total of 16 pawns, four rooks (also called castles), four knights, four bishops, two kings and two all-powerful queens. And you’ll need to paint one set a different color.

Follow the instructions below, or spend some time browsing at the hardware store for pieces to customize your set.

You’ll also need to get some white glue, spray paint, pliers and a screwdriver.

PAWNS

For each pawn (16):

• 5/16 by 3/4-inch hexagonal (six-sided or regular) cap bolts
• 5/16-inch hexagonal nuts

Thread nut onto bolt until 1/4 inch of bolt rises above the nut. Glue in place.

ROOKS OR CASTLES

For each rook (4):

• 5/16 by 1 1/2-inch hexagonal nut sleeve anchors

Use sleeve anchor as is.

KNIGHTS

For each knight (4):

• 1/4 by 2-inch eye bolts with nuts

Thread nut onto eye bolt until edge of bolt is even with nut. Glue in place by applying glue to the threads of the bolt, twisting on the nut, then wiping off the excess.

BISHOPS

For each bishop (4):

• 5/16 by 1 1/2-inch hexagonal cap bolts
• 5/16-inch wing nuts
• 5/16-inch locking nuts with nylon inserts

Thread wing nut onto bolt. Thread insert lock onto bolt, and tighten. Secure wing nut against insert lock.

KINGS

For each king (2):

• 3/16-inch hollow wall anchors (long)
• No. 14 finishing washers
• 1/4-inch flat washers
• 1/4-inch wing nuts
• 1/4-inch anchor caps

Grip end of hollow wall anchor with pliers, tighten screw with screwdriver until metal strips flair out. Remove center screw, add finish washer, replace screw into wall anchor. Add flat washer. Thread wing nut onto screw end, then tighten anchor cap to end of screw.

QUEENS

For each queen (2):

• 3/16-inch hollow wall anchors (short)
• No. 14 finish washers
• 1/4-inch wing nuts
• 5/16-inch external toothed washers
• 1/4-inch nylon insert locks

Tighten screw of hollow wall anchor as for kings. Remove center screw, add finish washer, replace screw into wall anchor. Thread wing nut onto screw end upside down. Then add toothed washed and tighten locking nut to end of screw.

FINAL TOUCHES

Spray paint one team. While it dries, practice saying “Checkmate!” You’re ready to play.

In September 1990, Boys’ Life readers met GISMO 3, an easy-to-build robot that sat atop the chassis of a radio-controlled toy truck. Thousands of GISMO-Guys built some incredible ‘bots that boggled the imagination.

Now GISMO is back and ready to rumble. Our newest member of the clan, GISMO 4, is a bumper-bot. He’s ready to do battle, Sumo style, against other GISMOs or roll around the house or yard for a joyride without denting people or furniture.

GISMO 4 is wicked quick, controllable by remote up to 70 feet away.

You can build the basic GISMO for about $60. Spend less if you can find parts around the house. Several readers who built our last GISMO found inexpensive working radio-controlled trucks at flea markets or garage sales.

GISMO’s head is a clear plastic food storage container. His body can be made from a number of round plastic containers, as long as there is enough clearance for the wheels. We used a large plastic planter pot, but you could substitute a laundry basket or wastebasket for the body shell. Outside the body, we attached a plastic foam bumper.

The heart of GISMO 4 is a radio-controlled truck chassis, including motor and wheels. Choose a 4 x 4 style truck with a rugged motor and good traction.

We used a Nikko Dodge Power Wagon. With high ground clearance and knobby balloon tires, it runs well even on carpet. It also comes with a rechargeable battery system. Other remote control trucks will work too.

If you plan to have Sumo-style ’bot battles with friends, choose remote-control vehicles on different radio frequencies so they don’t interfere with each other. You’ll find the information on the outside of the box, usually “49MHz” or “27MHz” or channel numbers.

To give GISMO 4 a high-tech look, apply a coat of silver paint, attach an antenna and stick an old circuit board under the clear dome for an electronic “brain.” Or go for the sumo look: a cloth tied on bottom and a cool pair of sunglasses on its head, under a topknot of hair.

GISMO’S PARTS

• Chassis from a radio-controlled truck.
• Large plastic planter, wastebasket, or 1.5-bushel laundry basket.
• Plastic storage container.
• Plastic foam “noodle.”
• One piece of 1-by-2-inch lumber
• Screws
• Epoxy glue
• Tape
• Long nylon wire ties
• Sandpaper
• Nuts, bolts, and flat washers.
• Tools Needed: Saw, screwdriver, pliers, drill or awl, scissors.

STEP 1: Test drive the radio-controlled truck before you remove the chassis. Stores may not honor the warranty afterward.

STEP 2: Turn the truck over and remove the screws that hold the truck body to the chassis. Carefully lift the body off, pulling the antenna wire through the hole. Leave the front bumper/winch assembly on the front to provide extra stability for front-end bumping. Save the body parts and screws.

STEP 3: Center the 1-by-2-inch wood block and chassis, wheels up, on the plastic tub. Slide the chassis forward so the front bumper touches the tub. Mark and cut the block so it fits snugly inside—trim or sand the corners for a tighter fit. Glue the block to the flat part in the center of the chassis, above the motor battery compartment. Don’t let glue get on the other parts of the chassis. Check the fit inside the plastic body and set aside to dry.

STEP 4: Center the food storage container’s lid on the bottom of the plastic tub. Use an awl or drill to make a hole through both. Attach the lid with a nut, bolt and two flat washers.

STEP 5: Use an awl or drill to make a hole to attach the tub to the front bumper of the truck chassis. Secure with a bolt, nut and two flat washers. Mount the robot’s plastic body to the chassis’s wooden block with small wood screws. Make sure there is enough clearance for the wheels to turn and move freely. Tape the antenna wire to the inside of the body.

STEP 6: Add the foam noodle around the opening of the robot’s body to act as a bumper. Trim the noodle to fit, then use an awl or drill to make holes at the back and front as shown in the diagram. Attach the noodle to the body using nylon wire ties.

STEP 7: Paint or add accessories to the robot’s body if you want. We added an arm to GISMO (we used a plastic baseball bat). Now he’ll look more like the BattleBots of TV fame. Use an awl or drill to make holes through the body where you want to mount the arm. Use nylon wire ties to attach.

GISMO 4 is now complete. Add other accessories to your not-so-lean bumping machine and enjoy some ’bot bouts with your friends.

Whether they’re powering a sports car or a lawn mower or a go-cart, here’s how to keep your engine running year after year.

OIL

What it is: Lubricant.

What it does: Lubes and cools internal parts.

When to check: Before every start-up.

When to replace: Varies according to use; can be weekly, monthly, or more. Consult your owners manual. (Take used oil to a recycling center, including some auto parts stores and gas stations.)

AIR FILTER

What it is: Trap for dirt, dust and other abrasives.

What it does: Keeps clean air flowing into the engine.

When to check: Varies; about every two months if you don’t operate in a very dusty environment.

When to replace: When heavily soiled. Wash foam element in soapy water, rinse and dry. Knead in a few drops of clean motor oil. After a few cleanings, replace with new filter. (inset: If you have a paper element with a foam pre-filter, prep foam as above and tap paper filter to dislodge dirt.)

FUEL

What it is: Combustable fluid.

What it does: When mixed with air, compressed, then ignited, produces the power to run a motor.

When to check: Before every start-up.

When to replace: Always use fresh fuel, fewer than 30 days old. (Take old gas to a recycling center that handles toxic waste.)

FUEL FILTER

What it is: Trap for dirt and water. Fits between fuel tank and carburetor.

What it does: Keeps clean fuel flowing to engine.

When to check: Varies. Usually only when troubleshooting your engine.

When to replace: Annually.

SPARK PLUG

What it is: Fire maker.

What it does: Creates a spark that ignites the compressed fuel and air.

When to check: Varies. Usually only when troubleshooting your engine.

When to replace: Annually.

OIL FILTER

What it is: Trap for metal, dirt, and other abrasives.

What it does: As the engine runs, the oil filter continually cleans oil to help lube the engine parts.

When to replace: At every oil change.

5 steps to troubleshooting:

An acting-up engine demands attention. Many problems can be resolved easily and quickly with these five steps – and you’ll be on your way.

1. Is there fresh gas in the tank? If not, fill with new fuel.
2. Is the fuel filter clogged? If yes, replace.
3. Is the air filter dirty? If yes, clean or replace.
4. Is the spark plug wire cracked or broken, or the spark plug corroded? If yes, replace.
5. Is the oil level full and clean? If not, top it off (and maybe start shopping for a new engine).

If these basic steps don’t solve the problem, get the help of a professional mechanic.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED:

• 1⁄2-inch-thick plywood
• Saw
• Drill
• Screwdriver
• Wood screws
• 4 small hinges
• 2 gate-hook sets
• Some screen
• Stapler
• All-purpose caulk
• Primer
• White outdoor oil-based paint
• Paintbrush

WHAT YOU’LL DO:

Cut the following from 1/2-inch-thick plywood:

• One piece, 29 1 ⁄2 inches long and 15 1 ⁄2 inches wide, for the base
• Two pieces, 18 1 ⁄2 by 7 inches, for the sides
• Two pieces, 15 1 ⁄2 by 7 inches, for the front and back
• One piece, 14 1 ⁄2 by 7 inches, for the main interior divider
• Two pieces, 9 by 7 inches, for interior dividers
• Two pieces, 7 by 5 inches, for the porch dividers
• One piece, 19 1 ⁄2 by 15 1 ⁄2 inches, for the ceiling
• One piece, 11 by 11 inches, for the roof peaks
• One piece, 29 1 ⁄2 by 11 1 ⁄2 inches, for the roof
• One piece, 29 1 ⁄2 by 12 inches, for the roof

STEP 1: Attach the sides to the base, leaving 5 1⁄2 inches on each end.

STEP 2: Drill four 5⁄16-inch holes,

2 1⁄4 inches and 4 1⁄2 inches from each end and 1 inch from the top of the main interior divider.

STEP 3: Attach the interior dividers to the base with screws.

STEP 4: Drill six 5⁄16-inch holes through the floor of each of the four compartments, one in each corner and one midway along each side.

STEP 5: Drill four 5⁄16-inch holes in each of the front and back panels, 1 inch from the top and 2 3⁄4 inches and 5 inches from both ends. Cut two 2 1⁄16-inch-diameter holes in each panel, each hole 3 inches from the side and 1 inch from the bottom.

STEP 6: Hinge the front and back pieces to the sides. Secure an eye catch to the free end of the front and back panels, and screw the hook into the sides.

STEP 7: Attach the porch dividers to the front and back between the entrance holes.

STEP 8: Cut the 11-inch square of wood along the diagonal to create roof peaks. Drill a 2 1⁄8-inch hole 3 inches from the top of each peak. Cut a piece of screen and staple over each hole. Attach the peaks to the front and back of the ceiling.

STEP 9: Attach the ceiling to the sides. Drill a 2 1⁄8-inch hole centered over each compartment and cover with screen.

STEP 10: Attach the narrow roof panel to the peaks. Position the wide panel so it overlaps the top edge of the shorter panel and secure to the roof peak. Seal the roof edge with caulk and finish the exterior with primer and white outdoor oilbased paint. Mount your house on a wooden post using angle irons or on a telescoping pole with a floor flange of the appropriate diameter.

The Purple Martin Conservation Association offers tips for choosing your martin house location and the best dates to open the house in your region at www.purplemartin.org

The Scouts in BSA Troop 324 at European Command Headquarters in Stuttgart, Germany, don’t plan on being in any sword fights. But making their own suit of chain-mail armor can transport them to the days of shining knights, if only for one fun afternoon. Here’s how you can join them.

You’ll Need:

• two 500-foot rolls of 14-gauge copper wire

• electric drill with 3⁄4-inch bit and 1⁄8-inch bit

• wire cutters

• hammer and nails (long enough to secure wood together)

• wood saw

• wood glue

• 3-foot-long wooden dowel, 3⁄4-inch in diameter

• 7 feet of lumber

• adult’s help and/or permission

STEP ONE: Build a Wooden Rack

A rack or frame will make it easier to produce the many rings needed in a shirt of chain mail.

1. Cut the lumber into three 1-foot-long pieces and two 2-foot-long pieces. Set one 1-foot piece aside.

2. Through the center of two 1-foot pieces, drill a 3⁄4-inch hole. Move the drill bit around to make the holes slightly larger, so the 3⁄4-inch dowel easily slides through.

3. Build the rectangular rack with the two 2-foot pieces and two 1-foot pieces with holes.

4. Slide the dowel through both holes.

STEP TWO: Add a Crank

1. Cut 6 inches off the wooden dowel.

2. Drill two 3⁄4-inch holes into the 1-foot piece of lumber set aside in Step One. Drill the first hole about 2 inches from one end, the other hole about 4 inches from the other end.

3. Take the longer dowel piece and glue into the hole drilled 2 inches from one end.

4. Take the 6-inch dowel piece and glue it into the hole drilled 4 inches from the end, on the opposite side of the lumber. This will be your crank handle.

5. Insert the crank fully into the rack. It should turn easily. About 1 inch from the inside edge of the rack, drill a 1⁄8-inch hole through the center of the dowel.

6. Set aside to let glue dry.

STEP THREE: Ring, Ring, Ring

1. Insert one end of the wire into the hole in the dowel and begin turning the crank. Keep turning until the entire length of the dowel has a single layer of tight wire coil. Cut the wire from the roll.

2. Cut the piece of wire that was inserted into the hole to begin the coil. Now you should be able to slide out the crank from the coil and the rack, leaving you with a coil of wire. Slightly stretch the coil.

3. Cut the rings from the coil. This should leave you a pile of rings that are just barely open. Make more coils and cut more rings.

4. Take 4 rings and twist the 2 ends together to make a closed ring. Put these 4 solid rings onto a fifth ring and close this fifth ring so you have a group of 5, four rings on one. This “fiver” is the basic building block for the chain mail armor.

5. Make a large pile of fivers. Also keep a large group of slightly open single rings. When you have a good pile of each, it’s time to begin building the armor.

STEP FOUR: Knitting the Shirt

1. Take a fiver and lay it flat, moving 2 rings to the top of the center ring and 2 rings to the bottom. Do the same with another fiver and position it below the first fiver.

2. Take a single open ring and link the bottom 2 rings of the top fiver to the bottom 2 rings of the bottom fiver. This single ring now links 4 other rings, just like the fivers you have already made. Close this open ring. Even at this early point the rings should

show a pattern, tilted up and tilted down as they rest upon each other. Add 2 more fivers to form a strip of four fivers. Make another strip of 4 fivers.

3. Lay a fiver strip flat to the right side of the first fiver strip. Take a single open ring to link the right 2 rings of the top left hand fiver in the strip to the left 2 rings of the top fiver in the right-hand strip. Continue to link the fivers as shown.

4. Hold up the linked fabric. You can “scrunch” the fabric easily in only one direction. Continue to build a large rectangular fabric. The direction of “scrunchiness” goes about the waist.

5. Once the fabric can comfortably circle your torso, with some slack, attach the 2 edges to form a cylinder.

6. Make two strips, at least 3 groups wide, that will attach to the top of the shirt. These will go over your shoulders. When you are done you should be able to put the shirt of chain mail over your head and have adequate area for your arms.

7. Small cylinders of links can be added to make sleeves. Links can also be added to lengthen the shirt, or different colored metal links can be added to decorate the bottom edge of the shirt.

A year before the Wright brothers made their historic flight in Kitty Hawk, N.C., Bell wrote in 1902 that it was possible to build large, lightweight flying machines. Instead of building one large wing, he proposed a bunch of small wings in the form of tetrahedrons (teh-tra-HEE-drons), strong, pyramid-shaped structures.

Was Mr. Bell right? Build this 10-cell tetrahedral kite and soar!

WHAT YOU’LL NEED:

• Scissors
• Ballpoint pen
• 60 long, straight drinking straws
• Kite string
• Needle (big eye)
• File folder or poster board
• Plastic bags
• Cellophane tape
• Dowel, 1/8 inch diameter

WHAT YOU’LL DO:

Step 1: Cut a piece of string eight times as long as the length of a straw. Thread the needle with the string.

Step 2: String three straws together. Tie into a triangle using a square knot. Leave a 2-inch end.

Step 3: String two more straws on the long string. Tie to one of the triangle’s corners using a double half hitch. Cut the string leaving a 2-inch end. Keep remaining string for later.

Step 4: Make a pattern by tracing both triangles onto the file folder or poster board. Draw a 1-inch flap along the side of each straw. Cut out. Save for step 6. Tie remaining string to left or right corner in figure above.

Step 5: Thread a sixth straw with leftover string. Tie the string to the opposite corner, creating a three-dimensional figure. You now have the frame of one cell.

Step 6: Trace the pattern onto the plastic bag, and cut along the lines.

Step 7: Lay the frame on the plastic, and tape in place.

Step 8: Make nine more cells.

Step 9: Tie cells together with the ends of the strings. Be sure the leading edges face the same way!

Step 10: Slide the dowel through the straws in the leading edge and cut excess. Put tape over each end of the dowel to keep it from sliding out.

TO GET YOUR KITE READY TO FLY:

1. Tape the dowel in place at the areas marked by arrows above.

2. Cut string 1 1/2 times as long as the leading edge.

3. Thread string on a needle. Sew ends of string through plastic around the dowel.

4. Tie an overhand knot one-third down from the top.

5. Tie your flying string to the knot, and launch your kite.

What You’ll Need:

• 1 ornamental gourd, dried (preferably baseball size and smooth)
• 1 1⁄4-inch-diameter dowel or stick, 14 inches long
• Dry popcorn kernels or small
• Sandpaper
• Drill
• 1⁄8-inch and 1⁄4-inch drill bits
• 1 12-inch-long coat hanger wire
• Woodworking glue
• Paint (optional)
• Thin leather lace (optional)

What You’ll Do:

1) Carefully drill a 1⁄4-inch hole in the base of the gourd. Don’t drill too fast or the gourd can split. Ask an adult for help or permission if you are new to power tools.

2) Take the coat hanger wire and scrape out the seeds and membrane.

3) Drill a 1⁄8-inch hole in the top of the gourd opposite the 1⁄4-inch hole. Set aside gourd.

4) Carefully stand the stick to a delicate taper, then gently fit into the holes in the gourd. The stick should fit snuggly in place.

5) Remove the stick and place the pebbles or popcorn inside until the sound is right for you..

6) Put the stick back in place and carefully glue at each of the joints. Don’t play until completely dry.

Though painting and wrapping it with leather is a nice touch, the rattle is complete as is. If you use the leather lace, wrap a thin coil around the top and bottom of the gourd where the stick joins, and then glue the leather in place. Another attractive addition is wrapping leather around the handle to make a firmer grip.

YOU’LL NEED:

• A straight tree or tree branch that’s 1-1⁄2 to 2 inches thick at its big end,

  and 55 to 65 inches long (DO NOT CUT ANY TREE; see Step 1.)

• A 1-inch-long piece of 3⁄4-inch diameter copper water pipe
• Five-minute epoxy glue
• A small saw to trim the stick to its final length
• A sharp pocketknife
• A spokeshave and a wood-burning tool (both optional)
• Adult help and/or supervision

Step 1: Cut your wood to length, making sure both ends are free of splits.

You can use dead, dry wood, but it’s hard to carve and makes a weak walking stick. If possible, use fresh wood; hardwood from deciduous (leafy) trees is better than evergreen softwood because it is less gummy. Note: Scouts never cut just any live tree! Take wood only from approved sources, such as a conservation project that thins out a timber stand or trail-building and trail-improvement projects.

Step 2: Using your pocketknife, whittle the bark from your stick, revealing the bright wood beneath. This job takes patience, especially when you are working around knots. Keep at it. You make discover your stick has an inner layer of bark, as well. Carve it away too, or your stick will darken as it dries.

Step 3: Now is the time to carve a head for your stick, if you want one. Using a pencil, draw on the nose, eyes and mouth, then slowly and carefully use the tip of your knife to bring out the details. If you rush this part of your work, you risk slipping and cutting yourself.

Step 4: To protect the bottom end of your walking stick from splintering, whittle it down until the piece of copper pipe slips snugly onto it. Secure the pipe permanently with five-minute epoxy.

Step 5: Your walking stick is now ready for immediate use. However, if you’d like to carve it to a smoother finish and apply a protective coat, you’ll need to let it dry indoors for about a month. Use sandpaper or a spokeshave (if you have one) to make its surface even smoother.

Step 6: Optional: Add your personal mark to the walking stick using a wood-burning tool. When you have the stick carved to your satisfaction, apply a stain or other such finish and a protective coat of polyurethane. Take your walking stick with you on all your hikes. Whenever you pick it up, the stick will remind you of your past outdoor adventures and make you wonder what excitement lies ahead.

YOU’LL NEED:

• Adult permission and/or help
• One 30-inch 1-inch-by-12-inch board (You can also cut a similar-size piece from a ¾ -inch-thick piece of plywood; treated wood weathers better.)
• 7 feet of 1-inch-by-1-inch pine (Or use 1-inch pine quarter round trim, or cut 1-inch by 1-inch strips from the 3/4 –inch-thick plywood).
• 10 galvanized 6-penny box or finishing nails
• One 1-inch pipe flange with four ¾-inch screws
• One 6 to 8 foot length of 1-inch galvanized pipe with one end threaded. (You can also screw the feeder onto a deck railing or hang it from eyehooks.)

Note: A roof is not necessary, but one can be added to keep the seed drier.

STEP 1: Cut platform base.

STEP 2: Measure and cut trim pieces so that they fit around the edge of the top of the platform. This will serve to contain the seed.

STEP 3: Nail or screw the trim pieces to the platform.

STEP 4: Fasten the pipe flange in the center of the bottom side of the platform with ¾-inch screws. (Or fasten screw eyes to each end of the platform.)

STEP 5 : Screw pipe into the pipe flange and erect your feeder in your yard within viewing distance of your window.

Place the feeder in your best viewing position — but also consider nearby shrubs and trees for shelter and protection for the feeding birds. In open areas, place your feeder on the side of the house that is most protected from winter winds.

Each bird species has its special habits and needs. The best high-energy foods include sunflower seeds, peanut kernel, white proso millet and suet (beef fat).

Lastly, because birds will come to depend on your feeder, it is important that you keep it full of food. Neglect it, and birds could suffer.

This project is easy to make using materials you may have around the house. If you don’t have them they’re easily obtained at any hobby or hardware store for little more than pocket change.

YOU’LL NEED:

• 2 15-inch-long pieces of wood (each about 1/2-inch thick but the thicker the better)
• 1 4-and-1/4-inch-long piece of wood
• 2 1/4-inch-thick screws long enough to pass through the short piece of wood laid on top of one of the long pieces of wood
• 2 bolts thick enough to secure the screws
• 2 8-inch-long pieces of string
• Pencil
• Ruler
• 1 action figure toy
• 1 drill and drill bits slightly bigger than the bolts you use
• Adult permission or help

STEP 1: Lay the 15-inch-long sticks side by side. They don’t have to be exactly 15 inches, but they must be the same length. Make a pencil mark in the exact middle of each stick. (If the sticks are 15 inches, the middle is 71/2 inches.) Drill a hole for one of your screws.

STEP 2: Draw a dot 3 1/2 inches above the drilled hole, then another dot 1 1/2 inches above the first dot. Drill narrower holes at those two points, wide enough to pull your string through.

STEP 3: Stop and check: You should have three holes drilled in each stick. Lay the 4 1/4-inch piece of wood across the two sticks so that it covers the first hole you drilled in the middle of each long stick. Make pencil marks on the 4 1/4-inch piece of wood at the points where it covers those holes. Drill holes there.

STEP 4: Screw the pieces of wood together to form an H. Secure the screws with nuts. Don’t screw them too tightly; they need to be able to move a little.

STEP 5: You’ve completed the base. Now make holes through the action figure’s elbows and hands.

STEP 6: Thread one piece of string through one of the lower holes in your sticks, and secure it with a knot. Then thread this same string through both hands of your action figure and into the lower hole of the opposite stick. Tie a knot there, too. Now thread the second string through the upper hole and tie a knot. Then thread the same string through the figure’s elbows and through the upper hole of the second stick. Tie a knot.

STEP 7: Stop and check again. When the action figure hangs by its hands, the strings should crisscross near each stick.

NOW IT’S TIME TO PLAY

To make the toy work hold the sticks close to their bottoms with one hand, or two, and gently squeeze them together. Your action figure should do a somersault.

It takes a little practice, but once you get the hang of it, you can make your toy acrobat do multiple flips. Some somersaulters spin six somersaults in seconds.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED:

• A pizza box
• Black construction paper
• Aluminum foil
• Plastic window covering
• Permanent marker
• Glue
• Tape
• Scissors
• Ruler
• String

WHAT YOU’LL DO:

STEP 1: Line the inside bottom of the box with foil.

STEP 2: Cover foil with black paper and tape in place.

STEP 3: Set the plastic under the box and trace the outline of the box.

STEP 4: Remove the box and draw another outline 1⁄4-inch inside the first outline and cut along inside line.

STEP 5: Close the box cover, and draw another line 1 inch from each side.

STEP 6: Cut along the lines on the front and sides—not the back.
STEP 7: Open the cover and line the inside with foil.

STEP 8: Glue foil in place.

STEP 9: Cover foil with the cut plastic and tape in place.

STEP 10: All layers should be airtight and wrinkle-free.

STEP 11: On the outside of the box cover, attach a string long enough to keep the flap open and let the sun shine in.

STEP 12: Once you have the oven, all you need is the sun. Choose a spot that will get at least several hours of direct sun away from any strong wind.

TRY IT OUT

Solar cooking takes a little practice. Try this recipe first:

Solar Oven S’mores:

Ingredients:

• Graham crackers
• Milk chocolate bars
• Marshmallows

Place graham crackers next to each other on the bottom of a black cast-iron pot. Black pots are best because they absorb and retain the sun’s heat better than light-colored pans. Top each cracker with a piece of chocolate and a marshmallow. Put a glass lid over the pot and place the pot in the center of your solar oven. When the marshmallow is gooey, take out the crackers and add the second layer of graham crackers on top to complete it.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED

• Large plant pot and saucer, earth or stone color preferred
• Large bucket of clean small (but bigger than aquarium-size) natural color gravel
• 16 quarts commercial potting or other high-quality soil, measured dry
• Two-foot-diameter circle of strong black garbage bag (leaf or trash compactor bags are nice and strong)
• Recyclable container (two-liter soda bottle)
• Small submersible fountain pump found at most hardware stores
• Clear tubing, at least six inches long, and the diameter prescribed by your pump
• “Outdoor” rated UL-listed extension cord
• Small ferns (and other prehistoric-looking flora), garden moss, and small, interesting garden rocks
• Your favorite plastic dinosaur models and toys

WHAT YOU’LL DO

Step 1: Measure five inches from the bottom of the container and carefully cut off the top.

Step 2: Attach tubing to pump outlet. Set the container flat on a table and line the container with the garbage bag. Place pump in bottom of lined container and fill voids with gravel to top of container. Gather remaining liner and use a twist-tie to temporarily keep clean. Set aside.

Step 3: Place plant pot and saucer on a flat surface and fill the pot halfway with gravel. Place the pump/container assembly on top of level gravel in pot and slightly toward the front.

Step 4: Carefully fill area around pump/container assembly with soil about one-third of the way to pot’s top (lip). Gently moisten soil surface with a small amount of water.

Step 5: Arrange your plants (remove from individual pots first) around the pump/container assembly, largest toward the back. Fill remaining area around plants with soil until just below the top of the plant pot.

Step 6: Shape a depression around the edge of the pump/container assembly. Bury the pump power cord and snake it out the back of the pot. Remove the bag twist-tie and gently line the depression with it. Insert one or two of your small garden rocks in the depression (do not puncture the bag). Line the edge of the depression with gravel and cut any excess bag.

Step 7: Carefully fill your swamp and cut the tubing to a desired length. Camouflage its end with garden rocks and gravel. Water plants without running soil into the swamp.

Step 8: Place your remaining garden rocks, moss and dinosaurs to complete the scene. Be creative. Nothing looks better than a meat eater stalking from behind the ferns. Better yet, decorate the pot by gluing on various imitation fossils.

Step 9: Have an adult locate an appropriate outdoor electricity outlet. Run power to your pump via the extension cord.

Did You Know?

Ferns and falling water help clear the air of allergens and pollutants; one through respiration, and the other by creating negative ions that electrically “charge” the surrounding air and “stick” to dirt. Placed around the home, plants and ornamental fountains improve the quality of our indoor environments and our overall health.

I make arrows the way my Iroquois ancestors did long ago. You can, too.

In our modern world, the hard part is getting the material, but you can use some alternatives that I’ve suggested.

Just remember: These arrows might look crude, but they’re not toys. Use them for target practice only, under the supervision of an adult, or display them in your room. Be careful!

WHAT YOU’LL NEED

• Adult help and/or supervision.
• Quarter-inch or 5/16-inch dowels.
• Bone, metal or slate, ground to shape, for arrowheads.
• Stout thread or cordage to attach feathers and arrowheads to the shaft.
• Hot glue, wood glue or ferrule cement.
• Wing feathers from a craft store.
• Water- or oil-based paint.

STEP 1: Shafts should be about as thick as your little finger and a couple of inches longer than the distance from your armpit to your fingertips. Make sure they’re straight as an arrow! After you gather them (get permission before cutting any growing thing), bundle them in groups of five and let dry for a few days. Dowels can be used as a substitute; they are available at lumber and building-supply stores.

STEP 2: Once the shaft is dry, scrape off the bark until the wood is smooth.

STEP 3: Cut a notch (about as deep as the diameter of the shaft) for the bowstring by scraping one end with a sharp stone. To get a sharp stone, find a piece of quartzite cobble (river stone) and break it in half with another rock. At the end of the shaft that receives the arrowhead, scrape out a notch that is 3/8 – to 5/8-inch deep. You can also use a knife, small saw or file.

STEP 4: Grind an arrowhead into the right shape by scraping the material against a sidewalk until the arrowhead has a point and a sharp edge. It’s a simple but tedious process. For safer arrowheads, you can round off the point.

STEP 5: Using the sharp rock, gouge a notch on either side of the wide end of the arrowhead for holding the cordage.

STEP 6: Place the arrowhead in the notch, wrap it with a piece of cordage 8 to 10 inches long and glue it with hot glue. I use resin, which is made from boiling pitch (sap) from trees. Making resin can be dangerous because natural turpentines must be burned off. For cordage, I use sinew, which I prepare by pounding deer tendons between rocks, then separate them into long, stringy fibers. Before I can use the sinew, I must chew it. The enzymes in saliva help dissolve the collagen that holds the tissues together, and this is what makes it work like glue. (Soaking it in water won’t work.)

STEP 7: For fletching (arranging) the feathers on your arrows, make sure each vane comes from the same side of the wing. Split each feather down the middle of the spine (use scissors or pocketknife) and trim it to size.

STEP 8: Glue the feathers onto the shaft, making sure the top feather is aligned with the bowstring notch, then space the two others equally from the first. Wrap more thread around each end of the feathers and set the arrow aside to dry for a day.

STEP 9: Once the wrappings are dry, the arrow is ready for painting. I put animal fat in a tin can and melt it in the sun. Then I mix in some reddish earth and daub it on the arrow with a paintbrush. You can use watercolors or oil-based paint.

Now it’s time for target practice!

WHAT YOU’LL NEED

You or a neighbor might have some 2-by-4’s or a stack of cinderblocks behind the garage, or ask at a construction site if you can haul away some of their cast-off masonry and lumber. Go to a hardware store for everything else you need or to pick up a few extras.

Total cost depends on your own resourcefulness, the size of your course and the complexity of each hole. Common red cement bricks sell for as little as 22 cents apiece; count on buying at least 100. Also look for things like a roll of chicken wire (about $5), 20 gardening stakes ($6) and a few boards ($15 max.).

Innovation is the key. Experiment. You might build one hole in 15 minutes but invest an hour in the next, carefully aligning a series of ramps or cutting doors in a cardboard box.

There’s no need to mess up the yard — use a croquet stake, a wicket or even just a piece of duct tape on the ground as your “hole.”

Here are three classic designs to get you started.

THE MAZE: Par 5

Tools: None

Materials: About 43 bricks, five heavier cinderblocks

1. Begin at the entrance, setting bricks in two parallel lines. The central island of cinderblocks is angled so that players are directed toward the right side of the maze (and into the pocket trap, if they strike too hard).
2. The cinderblocks go wherever a player is expected to bank his shots, since they’ll withstand impact better.
3. The “short cut” to the left is barely wider than a ball and can be reached only with a perfect set-up. Otherwise, players continue around to the right, where they can get an excellent double-bank shot off the two blocks in back.
4. Note the second pocket trap and the four bricks stacked as a guard in front of the finish.

TUNNEL IN THE SKY: Par 4

Tools: Wire cutters or pliers and a saw

Materials: About 50 bricks, six cinderblocks, a 3-foot-long roll of wire, two 3-foot-by-1-foot planks, one leftover piece of plank

1. Loosen the wire roll so that it becomes a tube, more than big enough for a ball to go through. Secure the tube by bending in a few loose ends with wire cutters or pliers.
2. Carefully size your planks and assemble the tunnel, using twin towers of two cinderblocks each.
3. In front, the plank should rest on top of the block tower, creating a small lip, so balls drop slightly into the wire tube. In back, the second plank must be level with the top of the tower, so support it underneath with an extra cinderblock.
4. Arrange your bricks in channels on either end of the tunnel. The front is a simple L-shape, with a cinderblock embankment at the corner. The back is more wide open, with a “ricochet” plank or another cinderblock set below the downhill ramp.

JUMP BALL: Par 2

Tools: None

Materials: About 27 bricks, 5 1/2 cinderblocks, boards or plywood at least 6 feet by 2 feet.

1. Build a tower of three blocks, lean your ramp against it and set a few guide bricks on each side.
2. Try a few practice shots, testing for range.
3. Set the finish with 2 1⁄2 cinderblocks in a wall behind it as a backstop. Place the rest of the bricks to complete the square around the finish, leaving two narrow entrances on either side.
4. Make this hole more difficult — Par 4 — by elevating the front wall with extra material to prevent low balls from bouncing over.

This design puts the finish more than 20 feet from the ramp — have some fun launching a ball that far!

Other Ideas For Holes:

Bumper Ball is any channel that has been randomly spiked to make a forest of obstacles. Use tent stakes, croquet wickets or gardening stakes.

The Chute is a variant of Tunnel in the Sky, with only one tower and ramp, using either five-inch drain pipe or a length of rain gutter to lead back to earth.

The Mousetrap is a big open-topped cardboard box, properly weighted down, with two or more doors cut into its face but only one way out.

Tidal Wave is a series of low ramps to jump across.

Volcano is a ramp that must be finessed, with the finish directly below the edge of the ramp.

Shotgun is a long open space with three narrow courseways on the far side, all but one of which are pocket traps.

The Long Maze might run to par 10 and is hilarious for croquet rules as players battle and hunt each other among the twists and turns.

SCORING AND RULES

Par is the term for the average number of stokes it takes to complete a golf hole. Always set par at a number that can reasonably be bested by one stroke. This score, one below par, is called a Birdie. On the Maze hole, if a player is able to get into the shortcut, he might finish in four strokes. Therefore, this design is a Par 5.

Backyard mini golf can be played in many ways.

Golf rules means the player with the lowest total strokes is the winner.

Croquet rules means the first player to reach the end of the course takes the trophy — and by striking another player’s ball, you earn an extra turn (or you can use it to smack that ball into an unfavorable spot).

Before you start, set all rules in stone. If a ball shoots sideways off Tunnel in the Sky, can that player take a “drop” back inside the brick walls? Does that cost him an extra stroke? Or does he have to work all the way back around to the entrance? Is there a maximum number of strokes at each hole (at amusement parks, it’s usually six) or do you play on until you’re successful, no matter the challenge?

It’s your game — you make the rules.

Stand taller — without waiting for a bunch more birthdays to pass — with stilts. After an afternoon’s work, you’ll be able to walk around at least 12 inches taller than you are now. That’s a pretty fast growth spurt!

YOU’LL NEED:

• Two pieces of soft wood, 1 1/2 inches by 1 1/2 inches by 55 inches long for the stilt poles. Choose pieces with straight grain and just a few small knots.
• Two pieces of hardwood, 1 1/2 inches by 2 1/2 inches by 5 1/2 inches long for the footrests. These should be knot-free.
• Four 1/4 inch by 4 1/2 inch carriage bolts, with flat washers and cap nuts. You’ll use these to fasten the footrests to the stilt poles.
• Coping saw
• Drill with a 1/4-inch spade bit
• 80- and 120-grit sandpaper
• Miscellany: a few 1-inch finishing nails, a hammer, a pencil, wire cutters, two clamps, wood glue and a spokeshave (small plane) will be useful if you can find one.
• Adult permission and/or supervision

STEP 1: Place the stilt poles side-by-side on your workbench and mark a pencil line across one face of each pole, 12 inches from the bottom ends. This marks where the top of the footrests will go later. You could attach these higher up, for greater walking height, but use the 12-inch level for your first pair of stilts.

STEP 2: Take the footrests and mark a smooth curve on the bottom end of each one. Use your coping saw to round the bottom of each footrest following these lines. This makes them look better than if you left them square.

STEP 3: Hammer two one-inch finishing nails almost all the way into the side of each stilt pole, within the area where the footrests will attach. Nip the heads off these nails using your wire cutters, leaving a small, sharp point just above the stilt poles’ surface. These will prevent the footrests from sliding around when you glue them on.

STEP 4: Spread glue on the longest edge of each footrest, then clamp them onto the stilt poles following the pencil marks you drew earlier. After it has dried for about an hour, scrape off the extra glue, then let the stilts dry fully overnight. Afterward, drill two holes through the footrests and stilt poles, then install the 1⁄4-inch carriage bolts to add strength.

STEP 5: Use your sandpaper or spokeshave to angle all sharp edges. It’s especially important to round the bottom end of the stilts so they won’t splinter during use. You can add paint or varnish if you like, but this isn’t necessary.

TAKING THE FIRST STEP

Always use your stilts outdoors, never inside. When it comes time to hop on for the first time, step onto the footrests from a box or step that’s roughly 12 inches off the ground.

As you lift each foot to take a step, pull up on the stilt poles with your hands so the footrests stay on the bottom of your feet as you travel forward.

It takes a little practice, but soon you’ll be commanding the respect that comes from a higher view of the world.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED

• Two sections of 1/2 inch PVC pipe, each 6 feet long.
• Manila or hemp rope, two 7-foot lengths and one 6-foot
• A plastic sled, 3 to 4 feet long. Use a plastic toboggan,

  with ridges on the bottom. These ridges help keep the sled behind you.

WHAT YOU’LL DO

Step 1: Start with the belt. Using a bowline knot (left), tie a one-inch loop about one foot from the end of the six-foot rope. Wrap the rope around the back of your waist with the loop just in front of your left hipbone. Tie another one-inch bowline in front of your right hipbone.

Step 2: Attach the PVC pipes to the sled. Tie each seven-foot piece of rope to the sled in place of the rope handle that came on it. Thread the ropes through the PVC pipes.

Step 3: Tie each rope to the loops in the belt. Never untie these ropes from the belt. When pulling the sled, tie the belt around your waist. When you reach camp, untie the belt, but leave the rest intact.

Step 4: Lash it or lose it. Once underway, you could drop something important without noticing. Tie everything securely to the sled.