Q. Hey Gear Guy, which devices (other than a traditional whetstone) can I use to sharpen my knife? How well do they work?

A. There are many types of sharpeners. To help you wade through it all, I contacted a friend at Gerber Legendary Blades. They make some of the best knives and know more than a little about sharpening blades. Here are the tree main types of sharpeners:

Diamond-coated rod sharpeners (work with fine or serrated blades). This one is most similar to a whetstone.

Pros: lower cost.

Cons: takes more time, tough to maintain the correct angle while sharpening.

Ceramic pocket sharpeners (work only with fine-edge blades).

Pros: lightweight, easy to carry, low cost, quick and easy to use

Cons: will create just an average edge and cannot sharpen serrated blades

Diamond fingers sharpeners (work with fine or serrated blades).

Pros: quick, easy to use, can sharpen a variety of angles and create sharper edge

Cons: more expensive

Check out this video from my show on Outdoor Channel to learn more about managing blisters and preventing them in the first place!

That’s a great question, and many guys out there are wondering the exact same thing.

Tinea pedis, or athlete’s foot as it is more commonly known, is a fungal infection of the foot. It is more common in athletes, which is how it got its name, but anyone can get it. The infection most commonly occurs on the skin between the toes, but it may also be found along the instep or lateral aspect of the foot — the so called “moccasin” distribution. Prevention and aggressive treatment are crucial to managing athlete’s foot infection.

Check out the following video from the boonDOCS show, on Outdoor Channel, for more information on how to keep your feet footloose and fungus free!

Q. I’d like to buy a mountain skateboard. What kind of board would you recommend for me?

A. Skateboarding down mountain trails? Love it. Get an entry-level board from MBS Mountainboards (mbs.com). They’ve been dedicated to the sport for a long time and make good boards. I did a quick check online and you can still get the basic MBS Atom 80 Mountainboard for $130, which should be a great board to learn on. You’ll pay about $30 more for the Atom 80x (comes with a hand-held V-brake), which will be very handy for running the steep stuff!

Q. Hello Gear Guy, I just got a new tent. What can I do to make sure it lasts me the longest amount of time possible?

A. Way to plan for the future, David. Caring for your gear is one of the most important things you can do. And if you treat your stuff well, most quality gear should last you for a decade or more. I still regularly use my 15-year-old tent. To bring you the best tent care tips I recently hooked up with some expert friends from REI (www.rei.com) and here’s what we came up with:

• Seam sealing. I’m not sure which tent you have, but these days most every tent comes with their floor seams and rainflys factory sealed for waterproofness. If you know for a fact your tent seams aren’t sealed then you’re going to want to do that ASAP with a product like McNett’s Seam Grip ($7.35; www.rei.com).

• Perfect pitching. When pitching your tent, use a ground cloth to avoid anything that might rip or poke a hole in your tent’s floor. Don’t snap your tent poles together because that can damage the fittings and weaken the poles. Instead, put the poles together one section at a time. When taking them down, start by breaking the pole down in the middle as it puts less stress on the poles. If your campsite is in the bright sunshine, leave the rainfly on during the day. The sun’s rays can breakdown the tent’s fabric over time but the fly (with its waterproof coating) is more durable to sun exposure.

• Be clean. After each outing, inspect your tent for damage and clean it when it’s dirty. Just spot clean it using a simple sponge with cold water and non-detergent soap (don’t use dishwashing liquid, bleach, stain sticks, etc).

• Smart storage. Never put your tent away wet. Sure, if you’re camping and it rains you have to pack it away wet, but as soon as you get home make sure to thoroughly dry it out. If you don’t, smelly fabric-destroying mildew will take over.

Q: What are red bugs and how do you treat them?

A: Red bugs, chiggers, berry bugs, scrub-itch mites and harvest mites are all terms used to describe members of the family of insects known as Trombiculidae. These reddish-orange mites can be found worldwide, but they really enjoy hanging out in damp, grassy and wooded areas, especially at the edges of forests. In the United States, chiggers are mostly found in the southeast, south and midwest. They are most active from early spring to early autumn, until the first frost.

Chigger larvae might infest humans by crawling up our shoes and legs as we make our way through the scrub. What’s kind of cool is that they do not actually bite us. Likewise, they do not burrow into our skin, and they do not suck our blood. Instead, chiggers use their mouths to drill tiny holes into our skin through which they secrete specialized salivary enzymes designed to break down our skin cells from the inside. Then, they slurp up the mixture through a tube formed by hardened skin cells called a stylosome. Basically, it’s like drinking a big “YOU” protein shake!

Your skin does not take too kindly to all of this drilling and parasitic digestion. Consequently, humans typically develop intensely itchy, bright red pimple-like bumps or hives or a generalized skin rash in the areas where the mites were attached, even up to 24 to 48 hours after exposure. Chiggers prefer to attach to skin at areas where the clothing fits tightly against the body, such as at the tops of socks or around the elastic edges of underwear, so a rash in these areas may be a clue to the specific cause.

So, what can you do for a chigger rash? First, forget the old myth of applying fingernail polish to the affected areas. Chiggers do NOT burrow into the skin, so trying to suffocate the mites with polish makes no sense at all. Second, chiggers do not lay eggs in the skin, so stop worrying about that.

Chigger wounds are a complex mixture of mechanical damage to the skin (the drilling), enzymatic disruption of the skin (the digestion), and your body’s own attempt to get rid of the parasite. Consequently, the most important thing to do is to prevent chigger infestation. Avoid camping in warm, moist temperate climates of high mammal density, including livestock pastures, natural parks and preserves.

If the area is infested, get out of there quickly and wash your skin vigorously with soap and water. Itching is best alleviated through the use of topical corticosteroids (either over-the-counter hydrocortisone 1% ointment or prescription strength from your physician) and anti-histamines like Benadryl. Watch out for severe rashes that can become secondarily infected with bacteria; in these cases, consult a doctor immediately.

Now you know a “mitey” bit more about chiggers than you did before!

Q. Dear Gear Guy, I’m going on a Bluenose camping trip and was having trouble finding the right gear. What are some good brands for warm clothes that are also affordable?

A. Gotta love those Bluenose trips! I definitely dig winter camping. OK, affordable cold-weather clothing brands? In my experience, your best bet for quality yet affordable outerwear is to look at the “house brands” of outfitters like REI (rei.com), L.L. Bean (llbean.com) and Cabela’s (cabelas.com). Those big outfitters often manufacture their own branded gear that uses the same high-quality fabrics and insulations as the big brands but for way lower prices. Columbia (columbia.com) makes some pretty affordable warm clothing, too. Stay warm, Thomas!

Q: I get a blotchy rash on my chest and back in the summer that my doctor told me is something called “Tinea Versicolor.” What causes that and how can I treat it?

A: Tinea Versicolor (TV) is a common rash that affects up to 10 percent of all teenagers. The rash is usually most notable in areas where you sweat the most; typically, it may start on the back and spread slowly to your chest, abdomen, shoulders and neck. It usually gets noticed in the summer because the spots make your normal skin look “blotchy.”

TV is caused by a yeast-like organism called Malassezia that is part of your normal skin flora, and infection is limited to the uppermost portion of the skin. The name versicolor itself means “several colors,” a fact that is reflected in the range of colors (from white to red to brown) assumed by the organism on your skin.

TV occurs worldwide and is more frequently seen in areas with higher temperatures and higher relative humidity. It also tends to run in families. The exact number of people affected by TV is difficult to predict because many affected individuals might not seek medical attention. The rate of infection appears to be the same across all races and genders.

Your doctor might make the diagnosis of TV based on the characteristic rash. It might also help to look at some skin scrapings under the microscope, which may reveal a characteristic “ziti and meatballs” pattern, representing short fungal hyphae and big, round spores in clusters.

Treatment is straightforward, with education forming the keystone of any management plan. Patients need to understand that TV might recur and that skin pigment changes might take months to revert to normal; sun avoidance/protection is the best way to minimize contrast between affected and normal skin.

Over-the-counter topical preparations are usually very effective. Selenium sulfide shampoos or lotions (like Selsun Blue or Extra-Strength Head and Shoulders) are inexpensive and readily available. Typically, they are applied to affected areas of the skin for about 5 to 10 minutes and then washed off completely; this process is repeated once a day for about 2 weeks. To keep the rash from coming back, repeat this process every other week or during the first week of each month. For more difficult cases, your doctor may choose to use prescription strength medications.

Q. Hey Gear Guy, I’m debating on whether to buy a Gerber pocketknife or a Swiss Army knife. My friend says Gerber; but I’ve heard Swiss Army my whole life. Which one should I buy?

A. The answer is: You’re both right. Swiss Army pocketknives are legendary for their quality and usefulness. There are two companies that manufacture Swiss Army knives, Wenger and Victorinox — both make excellent knives. As for Gerber, they are a great knife manufacturer, too. Gerber has been manufacturing knives for the past 70 years, and makes a wide range of knives from standard folders and sheath knives to multitool-type knives like the Gerber Fit ($41; gerbergear.com). Similar to a Swiss Army knife, it’s packed with useful tools, 10 in all, including a fine-edge and serrated knife blade, scissors, tweezers, a few screwdrivers, and a super bright LED flashlight.

Q: What do you do for a knife cut?

A: Great question! Truth is, the answer to your question is probably more about what you do NOT do with a knife cut, and you’ll see why…

Accidental knife cuts — called lacerations — are rarely life threatening. So the goals in the backcountry are to:

• Minimize infection
• Promote healing
• Decrease the need for evacuation

The first thing you should do with any laceration is calm the victim and, when possible, elevate the injured part of the body as much as possible above the victim’s heart. Protect yourself by wearing non-permeable first-aid gloves and good eye protection.

Next, stop the bleeding. This is best accomplished by applying direct and constant pressure to the wound using a wadded sterile compress, cloth, or — if need be — direct hand-to-wound contact (that’s why you “gloved up”). Hold pressure for a full 10 to 15 minutes. If you sneak a peek and still see bleeding, then the clock resets and you bought yourself another 10 to 15 minutes. Try at least 2 full rounds of direct pressure before considering a pressure bandage, tourniquet or other more extreme measures.

With the bleeding stopped, take a closer look at the injury. Check the pulses in the area of the wound; they should be strong and regular. The surrounding tissue should be warm and pink. There should be no loss of sensation, and motor function should be fully intact. In general, any differences that are noted when compared to the uninjured side of the body suggest the possibility of a more serious injury. In these cases, immediate medical attention by healthcare professionals should be the top priority.

Now, you have to clean the wound to prevent infection. An old saying in surgery goes, “The solution to pollution is dilution.” For minor wounds in the backcountry setting, this means washing away the dirt and bacteria from within the wound itself. Use the cleanest disinfected liquid available. The best irrigants are normal saline, disinfected water or fresh tap water. Avoid using povidone iodine (Betadine), rubbing alcohol, and hydrogen peroxide, which can cause further tissue damage.

The irrigation stream has to have enough force behind it to dislodge any foreign material without injuring the tissue underneath, and you have to be careful not to jam harmful material deeper into the wound. The goal is not to soak the wound but to clean it thoroughly. Try to use at least 1 liter of irrigation fluid to clean each wound.

When possible, bandage a laceration with a dressing that does not stick to the wound. Non-adherent dressings include Telfa, Xeroform, Adaptic and Aquaphor. You can apply an antiseptic ointment such as bacitracin to the surface of the wound before bandaging if you have it. When bandaging, be careful to allow for continued assessment of vital signs and function.

Be sure to keep up-to-date on your tetanus shots before you embark on a trip into the wilderness, and always seek professional medical attention as soon as possible!

A. Hi, Knotless. I’d say the answer is the Trucker’s Hitch. I learned this knot when I was a whitewater river guide. We used it to tie down huge stacks of rubber rafts on top of our trailers. And over the years, I’ve used it countless times on my outdoor adventures. It’s the easiest, most handy knot on the planet. It’s highly adjustable, capable of piano string-tightness and ideal for everything from tying a kayak on a roof rack to pitching a tent or stringing up a hammock.

Here’s how you do it:

1. Tie a loop in one end of the rope. Slip the other end of the rope through the tie-down point and then through that loop.

2. Next, make a quick-release loop (called a bight) above that tie-down point. To do this, grab the rope in your left hand and twist it clockwise two times, then pull the slack through to tighten the loop.

3. Thread the loose end of the rope through the opposite tie-down point.

4. Now, feed the loose end through the quick-release loop you just made and pull to tighten.

5. Once you have it as tight as you like, clamp down on the loop with your thumb and forefinger.

6. Pull a section of that rope back through and tighten.

7. Voila.

8. Tug on the loose piece of rope to easily undo the whole package. Or, to lock it in place, tie a bight in the line.

Q: Doc, I sometimes get a breakout of acne right where my bike helmet rubs against my chin. Is that normal? What can I do about it?

A: Congratulations on wearing your bike helmet! It shows you are really using your head out there!

Acne in teenagers is nearly universal. About 90 percent of all teens in the United States get some amount of acne. What you are describing is called “acne mechanica.” This is a specific situation where mechanical irritation, heat, pressure and occlusion of the skin by some outside material causes acne. This condition might be seen in anyone who wears a helmet with a chin strap (for example, horseback riders or bicyclists) or in people who play sports that require the use of shoulder pads (e.g., football or hockey) or headbands (tennis, anyone?). Backpackers and golfers are also prone to getting it on their backs in the areas where their straps rub against the skin.

Let your doctor know what is going, because he or she will want to make sure that you do not have an allergy or a skin infection in the area. If the diagnosis is acne mechanica, then the good news is that it may be treated exactly the same as regular acne except for one difference: You have to try to stop the rubbing and irritation as much as possible.

Q. How do I properly store and care for my camping equipment?

A. Well, Zach, if you’re like most guys I know, I’m sure the last thing you want to do when you get back from an outing is worry about cleaning and storing your gear. But if you don’t take care of your stuff, it won’t work properly later and could easily get ruined.

First off, never put your gear away when it’s dirty or wet. Clean the mud, dirt, sand, etc. off and, even more important, let it have enough to time to dry and air out before you pack it away. Organize your gear in sealable plastic tubs or cardboard boxes and keep it all in a cool, dry place. I keep my stuff in a shed with a dehumidifier constantly running to keep the wetness away.

A few specifics:

• Tent: Set it up in the backyard when you get home. Make sure everything is dry, because a tent packed away wet can quickly mold, mildew and rot. Clean the dirt or sand off tent stakes and poles.
• Sleeping bag: Air it out and then hang it up on a hanger in a closet or lay it out flat under the bed. Don’t store a sleeping bag long term inside its stuff sack because that can screw up the insulation inside.
• Electronics: For long-term storage of flashlights, headlamps, GPS, etc., always remove the batteries to prevent corrosion or leakage. Then store your batteries in a sealed plastic bag nearby.
• Cooking gear: Make sure your pots, pans, utensils and stove are all clean. Stray food drippings and crumbs will eventually attract insects and rodents.

A: Soccer is one of the most popular sports in the world, but “shin guard dermatitis” is pretty rare. There is some debate if the rash you describe is caused by an allergy to some specific components of the shin guards themselves or from direct irritation to the skin from sweat and friction. It might be a combination of factors!

The rule of thumb — or should I say “rule of shins” — is to try to limit your exposure to the shin guards as much as possible. That means wearing them only during the game and taking them off as quickly as possible. You can even wrap your shin guards in duct tape to make sure that they do not touch your skin. Your doctor might prescribe a topical medication that can help decrease inflammation, but know that the rash could return each time your skin is re-exposed.

A. Well, Theo, it depends on what sort of camping you have planned. If you’ll be car camping, a duffel bag is the better choice since it has just one large compartment for easily stuffing things inside — think of it as a mobile closet for all your gear. On the other hand, if you’ll be backpacking (hiking miles to a backcountry campsite), a traditional backpack is definitely the better choice. Although some duffels do have shoulder straps, they aren’t designed to carry loads comfortably for long distances the way an internal- or external-frame backpack is.

Q. We were on day two of a six-day backpacking trip when my buddy badly sliced the tip of his finger. The injury probably needed stitches, but we were a two-day walk from the trailhead. I know we were supposed to be prepared, and we got him bandaged up pretty well, but I know we could have done more. What, Gear Guy, would you have done?

A. I’ve got just the thing — and I’ve done this twice in the field (once for myself, once for a friend). It works great. First, make sure the bleeding has stopped, keeping pressure on the area until it does stop. Clean the wound. If you are sure the injured person has no allergies to antibiotics, put a bit of antibiotic ointment like Bacitracin on the wound, then place a standard bandage atop the slice. Next, cut the finger off a latex doctor’s glove (the kind that should be in your first-aid kit). Carefully pull it over the injured finger, then wrap the base several times with duct tape (this should be in your first-aid kit, too).

Now you have a waterproof bandage that enables the injured guy to still use his hands while keeping the injury clean. Take the bandage off each night to let the area air out, or whenever it needs changing, then clean the wound again and reapply the ointment and bandage the next morning.

Q: What is it about poison ivy that makes it cause such a bad rash?

A: Poison ivy, poison oak, and poison sumac are a group of related plants responsible for causing the most common “allergic reaction” in humans. Technically, the plants are not to blame. Rather, the agent responsible for the allergic reaction is the plants’ resin, urushiol, which in its natural state is a colorless oil that turns black when exposed to air (via an oxidation reaction).

The resin is not found on the surface of the leaves. Rather, it is found in the resin canals of leaves, stems, vines, berries, and roots of these plants. Why is this important? Because the plant parts containing the resin have to be injured enough so that they leak the resin. Then, you have to contact the resin directly.

Some good news: Dried leaves are less toxic because the resin has returned to the stem and roots through the resin canals.

Some bad news: Leaves are more fragile in the springtime – exactly when most people are “itching to go outdoors!”

Sensitivity to the resin varies from person to person, but you can become allergic to poison ivy, oak, or sumac at any age. Your risk for becoming sensitive to the resin actually increases with each exposure to it.

Some more good news: You have up to about 10 minutes after touching the resin to wash it off and, possibly, avoid a reaction.

Some more bad news: If you are too late, your skin will start to itch and turn red a few hours to a few days in the areas that contacted the resin. Eventually, the skin may swell and blister and may even weep and ooze.

An important clue that poison ivy, oak, or sumac caused the rash is the fact that it will often appear “in a line” on the skin, corresponding to where the resin rubbed against it! Some cases on the face have caused such bad swelling that people’s eyes have been swollen shut! Eventually, the rash begins to dry up in about 1 to 2 weeks. Sometimes, you will even see black dots in the skin corresponding to where the urushiol oxidized and turned black!

The resin from poison ivy, oak, or sumac can hang around for a pretty long time and can be spread from things like pet fur, clothing, tents, bike tires, walking sticks, etc.. Another very dangerous way of contacting the resin is through the smoke from burning poison ivy, oak, or sumac plants; the smoke particles can carry residual resin onto the skin and into the nose, mouth, throat and lungs, causing respiratory distress – a major medical emergency!

A:  Let’s face it:  Ticks are no fun.  You might even say, “They really bite!”  The mouthparts on these little critters are barbed, so once they get a good bite, they are tough to remove.  Some ticks even secrete a cement-like material that helps them to adhere to the skin better.  Now, that’s a sticky situation!

Laboratory studies have shown that in Lyme disease, for example, the longer a tick is attached to the skin, the greater the risk of transmission of the disease.  The good news is that some ticks can be on human skin for 1 to 2 hours before attachment even takes place.  For this reason, close and regular inspection of ALL BODY PARTS should be performed when traveling in tick-infested areas.  Protective clothing (for example, long pants cinched at the ankles or tucked into boots or socks) is also helpful for keeping ticks off your skin.  Spraying clothes with an insect repellent may also provide some additional protection.  Any loose ticks can be removed with duct tape or the edge of a credit card.

If you find an attached tick, however, get ready to remove it as soon as possible.  Why the sense of urgency?  Because quick and correct removal of attached ticks — ideally, within 24 hours of attachment! — can greatly reduce the likelihood of disease transmission from tick to human.

Know that improper removal of a tick can lead to a “host” of problems (blood-sucking joke fully intended!).  You see, any tick parts left behind in the skin can lead to a foreign body reaction in which your body’s own immune system revs up and tries to fight off the intruding tick parts.  The problem, here, is that the inflammation that follows can allow for infections to set-in more easily.

So, here is a great way to remove an attached tick safely, directly, and effectively:

1.  Always start by washing your hands.

2.  “Glove-up” if possible.  Don’t worry, though because you will not be touching the tick directly.  Doing so might allow the tick to bite you – duh!

3.  Get a quality pair of fine-tipped forceps.  Don’t waste your money on expensive tick-removal kits.  A good pair of forceps does an excellent job and comes in handy for other medical emergencies, as well.

4.  With your forceps, grab the attached tick as close to the skin (i.e., as far up on the tick’s head) as possible.

5.  Gently pull the tick out counter to the direction that the mouth parts entered the skin.  In other words, back the tick out in reverse!  Use a steady, constant motion, and move in a straight line, being careful not to twist, jerk, or turn the forceps.  Also, be careful not to squeeze the tick’s body too much because doing so might squeeze tick guts and contents all over the area.  Yuck!

6.  Once you remove it, consider saving the tick in a sealable container for identification purposes.

7.  Next, cleanse the skin with an antiseptic or soap and water.  You can also apply an antibiotic ointment if you have one.

8.  Wash your hands and go about the rest of your day.

Avoid using “home remedy” methods of tick removal, such as rubbing fingernail polish or vaseline petrolatum, using rubbing alcohol, or applying a hot extinguished match directly to the tick.  In general, these methods do not result in tick detachment.  More importantly, some of these methods may actually induce the tick to salivate (drool!) or regurgitate (puke!) into the wound.  Double yuck!

Now, get out there and remove some ticks!

Q:  Should I pop a blister and, if so, is there a “best” way to do it?

A:  Ideally, you want to prevent blisters from happening in the first place.  The next best thing is to try to leave good skin intact because it is the best “bio-dressing” you could possibly ever have.

Sometimes these options are not possible, and the blister may get so painful that it interferes with your ability to function (e.g., walking, gripping a canoe paddle, skiing, etc.).  Repetitive trauma to the affected skin can also cause the blister to get larger.  When this happens you have to consider taking matters into your own hands – so to speak:

1.  First, wash your hands and “glove-up” if possible.

2.  Next, clean the area to be treated with an antiseptic, soap and water, or whatever you have that works.

3.  Sterilize a pin with flame or rubbing alcohol (remember that rubbing alcohol is flammable, so be careful!).

4.  You want to leave as much of the skin intact as possible, so avoid piercing the blister from the top.  Instead, insert the pin into the side of the blister.

5.  With the blister “popped,” take some gauze and gently push down on the blister to help squeeze out the fluid.

6.  Now, make sure the area is clean.  Bandage up the area as best as possible and pile on the protective padding.   Make every attempt to minimize further injury to the area.  Keep it clean and try to rest it for as long as possible.

7.  Tylenol or Motrin can help with pain. Note: You’ll need parental consent to take medication at a Scout event.

You should be pain-free and back at the backcountry in no time!

For more information check out our video on Blister Prevention and Management at Outdoor Channel.

Please use the form below to submit your question.

Q. I’ve heard of sleeping bags that have arms and legs, so you can move around in them. Are these bags worth it?

A. Ah, wearable sleeping bags. It’s an idea that’s been around for a while and is used by some mountaineers and ultralight backpackers who are trying to save pack weight. Basically the idea is that one of these wearable bags can do double duty as both a sleeping bag and an insulative layer for wearing around camp (instead of a down jacket and pants). Most have warm sleeves and a hood with either built-in feet or an open footbox so you can more easily walk around camp. When you’re ready for bed, just lay down on your mat, pull your sleeves inside the bag and you’ll be toasty warm. One of the nicer, more popular wearable bags is the Nunatak Raku ($574 and up; nunatakusa.com).

Now, are they worth it? That depends. I think these wearable sleeping bags definitely have their place. But for the average guy who wants to save pack weight while cold-weather camping, I think he’d be better served dressing in traditional warm layers and wearing those to sleep inside a lighter-weight sleeping bag. Wearable sleeping bags while warm, can be very expensive, and tricky to wear while doing camp chores. You also have to be careful not to get too close to a campfire (it could catch fire or melt!) and don’t spill that camp meal in your lap or you’ll be sleeping in it!

Q. I am a Scout from New Zealand, and we struggle with keeping our Scout group’s canvas tents waterproof — they are pretty old. How can we make them waterproof?

A. Good question, Elliot. And you probably win the award for the most far-flung Gear Guy questioner ever. New Zealand? Awesome! O.K., waterproofing a canvas tent. There are several waterproofing products you can use, but one of the best is Canvak ($35 USD for 1 gallon; cabelas.com). Buy a couple gallons of that stuff, and use a pump sprayer (like what you might use to treat weeds or an old Windex bottle) and spray the Canvak all over the outside of your tents. Beware: the smell is pretty strong, so you’ll want to have several days to let your tents air out before sleeping inside them.

Q. Whenever I go on a camping trip my sleeping bag gets all smelly from me sweating all day. How do I make it smell better — besides taking it into the cleaners?

A. Ever hear of soap and a washcloth? Just kidding, well, sort of. There are a few things you can do to minimize the odor of your sleeping bag.

On the trail:

• bring along an extra pair of clean clothes to sleep in
• before going to bed each night, wash your feet, face and underarms
• no water? No problem. Bring along a pack of baby wipes or WetOnes.
• let your sleeping bag “air out” every morning before breaking camp for the day

Back home:

• “air out” your sleeping bag again
• if it’s really stinky, wash it. Use a front-load washer and avoid regular detergent. Instead, for down sleeping bags use something like ReviveX Down Cleaner ($9; mcnett.com) or Nikwax Down Wash ($9; nikwax.com). For synthetic bags, try a cleaner like Granger’s Performance Wash ($9; grangers-usa.com). Be sure to run it through the rinse cycle twice. Air drying your bag is safest, but if you’re in a hurry, check the bag’s care tag and tumble dry it on low heat.

The Scouts of Troop 433 in Minot, N.D., don’t learn about cold-weather camping by talking or reading about it.

They live it.

The high temperature in Minot from November to April is anywhere from 36 degrees to 3 degrees.

If these Scouts didn’t go outdoors in the cold, they wouldn’t go outdoors at all except for maybe a few months in the summer.

“It’s our weather for half the year,” says 17-year-old Life Scout Austin Westmeyer. “We don’t let it hold us back.”

When these guys — almost all of them natives of North Dakota — aren’t getting up before sunrise to go ice fishing, they’re skiing, snowshoeing, digging snow caves, or practicing to see who can build a fire and boil water the fastest.

DRESS FOR SUCCESS

“The cold really doesn’t matter if you dress warmly,” says 17-year-old Life Scout James Drawz.

James and the rest of his troop wear layers: long underwear, snow pants, sweaters, jackets, hats and gloves.

Because they spend so much time outdoors in cold weather, they spend a lot of time preparing for the worst. They polish their winter survival skills every year during their Klondike derby.

The 5-mile course tests their ability to build an emergency shelter, cross a gorge with a sled full of gear, build a fire and boil water.

Scouts also practice winter first-aid, from treating hypothermia to building a travois to moving an injured person to a place where he can get medical treatment.

They also practice rescuing someone who has fallen through the ice.

“You never, ever go out on the ice to assist the other person,” Austin says. “It puts you at risk of falling through.”

Instead, Scouts practice getting a rope to the person who is in trouble and using it to pull them out.

SLEEPING IN SNOW

Austin has twice tried to earn his Zero Hero award — sleeping outside overnight when the temperature drops below zero degrees.

Even though the temperature didn’t drop below zero either time, Austin learned a lot about sleeping outdoors in the cold.

The first time, Austin set up a tent over a bed of straw.

“Most tents don’t have a solid waterproof bottom, and your body heat will melt the snow,” Austin explains. “The straw keeps you warm.”

The next time, he and some of his fellow Scouts covered a huge box with snow, then carved out a door and air holes. They put down straw and blankets to keep their sleeping bags dry.

“Sleeping in something made of snow was really cool,” Austin says. “You can sleep in a tent whenever.”

LIVE AND LEARN

Sometimes, the Scouts of Troop 433 make mistakes just like the rest of us.

One time, James tried to go ice fishing in blue jeans. He still had plenty of layers on. What harm, he thought, could come from a little cotton? He quickly realized the error of his way.

“Sometimes the water creeps out of the (fishing) holes and gets on the ice,” he says. “I got my jeans wet. That will happen in snow, too, because your body will melt it.”

James and other Scouts also recommend bringing spare dry clothing and extra gloves. After all, it’s easy to get wet when you are adventuring in the snow.

One frigid day last winter, Travis Patterson was ice fishing at Lake Darling, 40 miles south of the Canadian border. When he finally saw the fishing bobber move, he hauled his line out of the ice.

A foot-and-a-half-long northern pike flopped off the hook.

Travis tackled the fish and instantly learned why these fish are nicknamed snot rockets.

“I got slime all over me,” says Travis. “Don’t wear your best clothes ice fishing.”

Last summer, just months after their visit from a Boys’ Life photographer, record flooding on the Souris River caused major damage to the homes of more than 40 Scouting families in the Minot, N.D., area.

In addition, three of the seven Scout troops in Minot have had to find new places to hold weekly meetings because of flood damage to the churches where they met.

Summer day camps were postponed and the Fall Camporee was canceled.

The Big 4 Boy Scout Camp, which sits along the Souris River about two miles west of Minot, was flooded from early April to early August. Most of the buildings at the camp had up to six feet of water from the overflowing river.

Several picnic tables were washed downriver. Tools and equipment stored at the camp were ruined.

The Big 4 camp has been used year-round for weekend campouts. It also was the summer meeting place for Troop 433.

Groups of Boy Scouts from throughout North Dakota have been assisting the Minot Scouts since the flooding.

Click here for information on how you can help.

Q. Last summer at Cub Scout day camp, the temperature hit 106 degrees. I like to wear a wide brim hat on days like that, but sometimes they just get in the way and a ball cap works better, especially when I’m out doing a lot of active stuff like running around or jogging. I find that most ball caps make my head feel hot and just retain more heat. I try soaking them in water and letting evaporation cool my head down, which helps a little, but I was wondering if you’ve come across any good caps that might have some ventilation in them.

A. Yeah, I too sometimes prefer a ball cap on those really hot days, especially when it’s windy. Sounds like you need a high-performance baseball-style cap made with lightweight, quick-dry material and plenty of mesh venting. There are lots of options out there, many even equipped with sun-protective materials. Here are three that I like:

• Patagonia Vented Longbill Cap ($25; patagonia.com)
• Columbia Blood and Guts Freezer Ball Cap ($22; columbia.com)
• Outdoor Research Swift Cap ($20; outdoorresearch.com)

Q. Hi Mr. Gear Guy. I saw a sleeping bag in Boys’ Life. It is called Cub Scout lightweight bag and says Cub Scouts on the actual sleeping bag. Where can I purchase that bag? Thanks!

A. Hey Mrs. Mom. That’s an easy one. It’s called the Cub Scout Lightweight Sleeping Bag and it’s $39.99 on ScoutStuff.org. Here’s the link: http://www.scoutstuff.org/bag-sleep-cs-30-degree.html

Q. I have a 45-degree Lafuma mummy sleeping bag and a 15-degree liner to go with it, so it becomes a 30-degree bag. My dad says I’ll be fine in the cold, but I’m not so sure. It gets pretty cold in the tri-state area. What do you think I should do?

A. I think you should give it a shot. Sleep a couple nights out in your bag and find out if it keeps you warm enough. If you’re worried, pitch a tent in the backyard so you’ll be close to home if you do get totally chilled. That said, here are some ways to stay warm inside your sleeping bag: (1) be sure to use a sleeping pad because that will help insulate you from the cold ground, which will quickly suck heat from your body; (2) consider sleeping in warm clothes, like a set of long underwear and wool socks. Also, wear an insulated stocking cap since you lose lots of body heat from the top of your head. Lastly, keep in mind, the temperature ratings on sleeping bags and liners are just general guidelines. It’s up to you to determine at what temperature you can still sleep comfortably in your sleeping bag.

Here’s an easy way to trace your way from one winter constellation to another.

1. In the north winter sky, look for the Big Dipper constellation. It looks like an old well dipper, and is part of Ursa Major, the Great Bear.

2. At the “dipper” end, two stars nicknamed the Pointer Stars form a straight line to Polaris, the North Star. Polaris tips the end of the Little Dipper, also known as Ursa Minor, the Little Bear.

3. From Polaris, draw an imaginary line across the sky to a sideways M constellation recognized as Cassiopeia the Queen.

4. Turn your back to Polaris, and look for three stars in a row. These stars form the belt of Orion the Great Hunter.

5. Trace the belt stars down to the left, or east to the brightest star, Sirius, found in The Great Dog (Canis Major).

6. Trace the belt stars up to the right, or west to a V-shaped constellation, Taurus the Bull.

Q. When I get a new traditional lock-blade knife, it often messes up within the first hour. When I close it, the blade flips in and out and will not completely shut. Why isn’t it working?

A. Without seeing your knife first-hand it’s tough for me to say what’s wrong with it. My guess is that the knife itself wasn’t all that well-made in the first place. I understand that price is usually a concern for most of us, that’s why I’m happy there are knives out there like the SOG AutoClip Mini [$23; sogknives.com]. I’ve field-tested this simple, affordable lock-back knife with its 2.86-inch stainless-steel blade for months and can say it’s well-made and works perfectly. You can also find several other affordable lock-back options from Buck Knives and Gerber. Good luck!

Q. I have been reading Boys’ Life longer than most Scouts, but I saw the question about “I have a 20 degree bag…but still cold.” His problem might be that he is going to bed in the clothes that he has been wearing all day. Your body sweats, even in the coldest weather, and that moisture will keep you cold even in the warmest sleeping bag. My advice is to change into fresh dry clothes, at a minimum, change into dry socks and long johns. Try it. Dry means warm.

A. Listen here, Dan, you’re supposed to ask me a question. And I’m supposed to answer it! Are you trying to take over my job?! Just kidding. Seriously Dan, your advice to change into fresh, dry clothes before crawling into your sleeping bag for the night is spot on. Plus, it’ll help keep your sleeping bag from smelling like a sweaty locker room!

P.S. I don’t want a hybrid.

A. I think you should go with a mountain bike. Road bikes don’t do so well on rough roads, but the suspension on most mountain bikes will help swallow up the uncomfortable bumps and holes. Since it sounds like you will mostly be riding on the road, instead of knobby tires consider getting semi-slick mountain tires, which have a smoother (and faster) tread for road riding.

Q. Hello Gear Guy, My friends wear Under Armour with shorts and a T-shirt and say they are warm when it is 30 degrees out. Meanwhile I’m freezing with long johns and my uniform and a jacket on! I was considering buying Under Armour. They give me a choice of silk or polyester, which one keeps me warmer? Do you have suggestions of any other products besides Under Armour?

A. Yo Alex! I’d bet your “warm-blooded” friends might be talking up their warmth a little bit — makes them feel cooler, I guess. That said, a good base layer is indeed the key to keeping warm outdoors. If I were you, I would stick with polyester base layers rather than silk. Sure, silk will keep you warm, but it’s more expensive and usually harder to care for (some require hand-washing!). Most importantly, it’s not quite as quick to dry as polyester and slower to wick sweat away from your body. That makes polyester a better choice for a guy like you who is likely really active when you’re outdoors. While Under Armour does make nice base layers, there are plenty of other very good options out there. One of the most affordable yet high-performance base layers I know of is L.L. Bean’s Polartec Power Dry Base Layer, Midweight Crew top and pants ($35 each; llbean.com). Brands like Columbia, Mountain Hardwear, REI and Cabela’s also carry similar products.

Q. I can’t seem to find a good pair of convertible synthetic pants for hiking/backpacking. Could you point me to where I should look? I’m looking for something that doesn’t cost more than $45 to $50.

A. We have just the pants you are looking for, Paul. The official BSA Centennial Switchbacks have it all: moisture-wicking and quick-drying nylon construction, UPF sun protection, lots of cargo pockets and other extras. The legs zip off to make perfect hiking shorts, and the price is right in your wheelhouse: $49.99. Find them at your local Scout shop or at scoutstuff.org.

Q. I’m shopping for a tent and am confused by the way the tents are labeled for weight. Most seem to list two weights, a trail weight and a packed weight. What’s the difference?

A. I’ll be happy to weigh in on this one. There is no industry standard on how tent manufacturers need to weigh and label their tents. So, consider the weight on a label as a rough estimate. Packed Weight (I’ve also seen it listed as Packaged Weight) refers to everything that comes with the tent when you buy it. That includes stuff sacks, stakes, maybe even a repair kit and a manual. Obviously you won’t want to bring all of that on the trail with you, so then you look at the Trail Weight (sometimes also listed as Minimum Weight). The thing is, the Trail Weight usually includes just the tent, rainfly and poles. No stakes. No ground cloth. So the Trail Weight isn’t all that accurate, either. Others list a Fastpack Weight, which includes just the rainfly and poles. All of the above is just a long-winded way to say the actual weight will be somewhere between Packed Weight and Trail Weight.

Q. I need (OK, I want) a helmet camera. I like the GoPros but I don’t know which model to get for filming while skiing. What would you recommend?

A. I love the GoPro cameras, too! Which model you should buy depends on what you “need” from a small waterproof point-of-view video camera like this. If price is a concern, look online for a used or new entry-level GoPro SD Hero 170 (retailed for $100), which GoPro has stopped making. This one came with a helmet/head strap plus a couple of stick-on mounts, shoots standard-definition video and 5-megapixel photos, and is powered by two AAA batteries. It’s everything you need to get started shooting helmet-cam movies.

If your heart is set on capturing high-definition video, spend $180 and go with the GoPro HD Hero 960. HD Hero comes with a rechargeable battery, which will save you money in the long run. If money is no object, go with the top-of-the-line GoPro HD Helmet Hero ($300), which comes with more mounting options and is compatible with cool new accessories including the LCD BacPac, a little mountable video screen that lets you see what you’re filming in real time.

Q. How are the camping backpacks at Philmont made so lightweight?

A. The internal-frame backpacks used at Philmont Scout Ranch in Cimarron, N.M., are special “program packs” built by Osprey Packs, one of the top backpack manufacturers in the world. Philmont uses the La Plata (weight approximately 4 lbs. 5 oz.) and the Escalante (5 lbs. 4 oz.). You can’t buy those in any stores, but they are based on Osprey’s popular and lightweight Aether backpacks. The most similar model available to consumers is the Osprey Aether 85 ($289; ospreypacks.com), which weighs in at 5 lbs. 1 oz. and uses lightweight yet durable nylon fabric and superlight aluminum rods to stabilize and transfer the pack load.

The external frame backpacks used at Philmont are the classic (yet recently redesigned) Kelty Tioga (5lbs. 14 oz.) with a lightweight aluminum frame. But it’s no longer manufactured, so you can’t buy it either. If you want this pack, you’ll have to find a used one for sale somewhere.

A. Since I don’t know everything about your situation, Ethan, I’m just gonna have to give you some basic advice.

If your sleeping bag is a basic rectangle shape, try a mummy-shaped bag instead. Those fit closer to your body, so there’s less room inside the bag for your body to heat up. The fleece liner is a good idea, as that can add some valuable extra warmth to your bag. You might also try sleeping in your clothes, and wear a stocking cap — lots of your body’s heat escapes through your head. Maybe try a down sleeping bag. No synthetic insulation can match its weight to warmth ratio (but it’ll be more expensive).

You mentioned your 20-degree bag not being warm enough. Those ratings are just a general guide to what temperature you could sleep comfortably in. If you’re a cold sleeper, and it sounds as if you are, go for a sleeping bag that’s rated for much colder temps, like a 0-degree bag.

Finally, make sure you are sleeping on a sleeping pad, because the cold ground can quickly suck valuable heat from your body. Much like sleeping bags, pads are rated for colder temperatures, and using one would definitely help you sleep warmer.

Q. Yo Gear Guy! This weekend when I was setting up my two-man tent to air-dry, one of the fiberglass poles broke. Any places that I could go to get a replacement?

Dear Mr. Half. First off, good for you for airing out your tent (cue applause). Taking care of your gear is key for making it last a long time. Now, there are a couple tent pole-specific tips I’d like to offer: When you’re putting up or taking down collapsible tent poles, always work from the center out. So for instance, don’t try to collapse the pole from one end first. That’ll put too much stress on the elastic inside the pole and can cause it to break. Next, always try to keep your poles out of the dirt or sand. That stuff can get inside the pole joints and cause problems too.

Obviously your immediate issue is getting a new pole. Your best choice is to contact the original manufacturer of your tent. You should be able to find a customer-service email or toll-free number on the company’s website. If not, try going to the shop where you bought the tent. They might have info on how to reach the manufacturer. When you do get in touch, be sure to mention which exact tent model you have and which pole is broken. If that’s unsuccessful, you might also try TentPole Technologies, LLC. (www.polesforyou.com). Prices for replacement poles seem to range from $5 to $35 for fiberglass poles, depending of course on the diameter and length of the pole you need. Aluminum poles are roughly twice as expensive. While I can’t vouch for the company directly, it does seem like they’d be able to help.

Cheap vs. Steep: “Cheap” gear listed here is great stuff. It has been studied and tested and ranks among the best offerings in its price range. When you’re ready to move up to higher-end gear, the “Steep” options provide room to grow. You can often find great deals online.

HELMETS

News flash: Wearing a helmet on the slopes is cool. It means you’re smart and that you’re charging hard enough to need a brain bucket. Wear only an ASTM- or CE-approved helmet. Some helmets come with added ventilation, removable earpads, even built-in headphones. But most important, pick one that fits comfortably snug.

• Cheap: Salomon Drift Kid ($60; salomon.com)
• Steep: Ride Duster ($100; ridesnowboards.com)

GOGGLES

Goggles are meant to keep blowing snow and wind out of your eyes so you can concentrate on shredding the hill. The fit should be snug with no big gaps between your face and goggle where air can enter. Also, make sure the top of the goggle frame meets the helmet as closely as possible. Different lens tints work better in different snow conditions. Pick a darker lens for very bright days; yellow or rose tints work well in lower light. Some goggles even come with interchangeable lenses.

• Cheap: Oakley E Frame ($39; oakley.com)
• Steep: Smith Stance ($90; smithoptics.com)

BASE LAYER

If you’re wearing a regular cotton T-shirt as a base layer, you must be stuck in the 1980s! What you need next to your skin is a quick-drying fabric like a synthetic blend or wool, which wicks moisture away from your skin while keeping you warm. A zippered mock T gives you the maximum ability to regulate your body temp. Should fit snug, but not too snug.

• Cheap: Polarmax PMX Team Shirt and Tech Pant ($25 each; polarmax.com)
• Steep: Icebreaker Longsleeve Crewe and Legging ($60 each; icebreaker.com)

MID LAYER

If you’ve learned anything from Gear Guy about dressing for the outdoors, it’s this: Wear layers! If you get hot, take a layer off. Get cold, put one on. Fleece or down pullovers and jackets make great mid layers. Should fit relatively close to the body but with enough room to move.

• Cheap: Eddie Bauer First Ascent Cloudlayer fleece pullover ($20; eddiebauer.com)
• Steep: The North Face Vesty Vest ($89; thenorthface.com)

JACKET

This outer layer protects you from the wind, snow, sleet, etc. Look for a jacket that’s waterproof and breathable. Some come with built-in insulation or removable layers depending on the weather. A few zippered pockets are nice, but you don’t need too many gadgets. Should be roomy for mobility and to accommodate extra layers, but not so loose that it’ll get caught on the ski lift.

• Cheap: Columbia Rugged Peak Jacket ($115; columbia.com)
• Steep: Patagonia 3-in-1 Snowshot Jacket ($339; patagonia.com)

PANTS

Eventually, you’re gonna fall. And when you do, you’ll need a good pair of waterproof/breathable pants to keep you dry and warm. Wear them loose, but not baggy, for mobility.

• Cheap: Columbia Bugaboo Tech Pant ($85; columbia.com)
• Steep: Sierra Designs Rad Pants ($199; sierradesigns.com)

GLOVES

Look for gloves that are warm and waterproof/breathable. They need to fit tight enough so you have plenty of dexterity with your fingers and no unnecessary bulk. Leather palms can help with better feel, too.

• Cheap: Kombi Gore Method Jr. ($50; kombisports.com)
• Steep: Outdoor Research HighCamp ($79; outdoorresearch.com)

SOCKS

Wear a pair of mid-weight synthetic or merino wool socks — never cotton tube socks because they won’t keep your feet warm once they’re sweaty and wet. Make sure your socks are close-fitting because if they’re too loose, they’ll bunch up and cause blisters.

• Cheap: Lorpen Kid’s Merino Ski ($15 for 2 pair; lorpen.com)
• Steep: Icebreaker Kids Snow Mid Over the Calf ($15; icebreaker.com)

SKIS

You’ll spend somewhere between $350 to $900 for a pair of skis. In general, look for skis that come up to about your nose or forehead. For a variety of all-mountain type skiing, pick a ski with a waist of about 70 to 80 millimeters and a soft or medium flex, which is best for beginner and intermediate skiers.

• Cheap: Salomon Shogun Jr. ($275; salomon.com)
• Steep: K2 Bad Seed ($550; k2skis.com)

SKI BOOTS

Well-fitting boots are key to maintaining control of your skis. Look for four-buckle boots with customizable features for fine-tuning a better fit. The flex of your boots is also important. Beginners should look for a less stiff boot. Ski boots should fit one-half size to a full size smaller than street shoes.

• Cheap: Nordica GP TJ ($185; nordicausa.com)
• Steep: Tecnica Bodacious 65 Jr. ($375; tecnicausa.com)

SKI BINDINGS

Bindings are the connection between you and your skis. Step in and they click as they lock in. When you wipe out, the binding releases and tiny brakes pop down to stop your skis from skiing away from you! How easily they release can be adjusted; most beginners should choose a low-release setting. Most new skis are paired with bindings and will cost an extra $150 to $300.

SNOWBOARD

Expect to spend between $250 and $500 for a new snowboard. Your board should come up to right around your chin. You also want to make sure the board is wide enough so that your feet don’t hang over the edge when you turn. The next thing to consider is board stiffness. Softer flex is best for beginners because it’s easier to ride. More stiffness helps advanced riders on steeper slopes.

• Cheap: Rome Label Rocker ($260; romesnowboards.com)
• Steep: Lib Tech Lib Ribber ($349; lib-tech.com)

SNOWBOARD BOOTS

Make sure your boots are comfortable from the first time you try them on. They should fit snug in the heel and forefoot with some wiggle room for your toes. For starters try a half-size smaller than your street shoes. In general, entry-level boots have traditional shoe lacing; higher-end boots use a tightening system that lets you easily dial in the tightness with a knob.

• Cheap: Ride Orion ($129; ridesnowboards.com)
• Steep: DC Judge ($270; store.dcshoes.com)

SNOWBOARD BINDINGS

Your board is attached to your feet with bindings. There are two types: straps and step-in. Strap bindings are the most popular and are the best choice. They can be cinched down super-tight using the ratchet straps, while step-ins lock you in just by stepping down on the binding.

• Cheap: Rome Shift ($120; romesnowboards.com)
• Steep: GNU Park ($239; gnu.com)

WINTER SPORTS TIPS

• Stay Hydrated. You might not be sweating and you might not feel thirsty, but your body probably is. Cold weather and active winter sports can dehydrate you quickly, so be sure to drink enough water while skiing or riding. Some guys even wear hydration packs to keep liquids close by.

• Take a Lesson. No question, the fastest way to get past the beginner blues is to take a ski or snowboard lesson or two. Most ski resorts offer lessons.

• Shop in Summer. One of the best ways to get a good deal on ski or snowboard gear is to shop during the off-season — most snow shops have good sales starting in March. You can sometimes find quality used gear in your local newspaper classified ads or online.

• Rent First. If you’re unsure about what type of skis or board would be best for you, rent your gear. Most shops have rentals and demo equipment, and some might even offer full season leasing of a whole setup for around $150 to $200.

Q. Are waterproof bags necessary or will garbage bags work just as well?

A. This really depends on what you’re doing, Keith. If you’re throwing away a bunch of stinky trash, then a garbage bag is totally the call. But I’m assuming you’re really asking if garbage bags will also work for backpacking or canoeing or some such. The answer is yes and no.

For trail-based activities, like backpacking somewhere kinda rainy, garbage bags are actually super handy. They can be used as a waterproof pack liner (to keep your sleeping bag and clothing dry) or as a rain cover for your backpack. They are lightweight, cheap, super packable and can even provide emergency shelter in a pinch. Just be sure to get the heavy-duty, super thick plastic bags like the ones you find at Home Depot and hardware stores. Double bagging (lining one bag inside the other) is even more effective as trash bags can puncture relatively easily. For holding smaller loads like just a down sleeping bag or specific clothing, some experienced hikers tend to use smaller, narrower trash compactor bags which are thick but not as large as conventional trash bags.

Now if you’re wondering if a garbage bag is a good choice for carrying your gear on water-based outings like canoeing or rafting, the answer is no. Plastic bags can and will eventually get puncture holes, which let water seep inside. And if you capsize or if your trash bag full of clothing and gear sits in the bottom of a wet canoe for hours, there’s an excellent chance your stuff will be soaked. For this type of outing a waterproof drysack with a roll-top closure is really the best choice because it can take a full dunking and still keep the stuff inside dry. These type of dry bags range in cost from about $10 to $75 depending on size and thickness of the bag. Some good quality brand names to shop for are Sea to Summit (seatosummit.com) and SealLine (cascadedesigns.com/sealline)

Q. Yo Gear Guy, I just got back from summer camp and I had a blast, except for one thing: My tent got a hole in it. I was wondering if you know any good inexpensive ways to fix the holes?

A. Better a hole in your tent than a hole in your head, huh Zach? No worries, I have an easy solution that my buddy (and Eagle Scout) Chris Dickey shared with me. Here’s what you’ll need:

• one tube of SeamGrip ($5-$7; www.mcnett.com)
• one fabric patch
• duct tape

Apply a piece of duct tape to the backside of the fabric tear. On the outer facing side apply a thin layer of SeamGrip (careful, this is sticky stuff). Next, place the fabric patch over the top of the SeamGrip. Before it dries, give it a gentle press and wipe away any residue. Give the patch about 20 minutes to dry and you’ll have a bomber tough waterproof fix.

Q. Dear Gear Guy, I’m going on a camp-out soon and need to buy a cot. What kind of inexpensive cot do you think is best? Thanks!

A. Yo Billy, thanks for the question. I’ve been getting quite a few cot-related questions lately, so you’re not alone. There’s a wide range of cots on the market, some costing up to $150. But for your needs, which sounds like a car camping-style outing, the Wenzel Camp Folding Cot ($45; wenzelstore.com) should work just fine. It’s super basic, plenty comfortable, and simple to set up. There are definitely lighter-weight cots (this one weighs 14 lbs.) and more compact choices (the Wenzel just folds in half while others collapse neatly); still this cot should do the trick—and I even found it online for $35!

Q. Hey Gear Guy, I am getting ready to go on a camping trip and just would like to know what is the best kind of survival kit that fits nicely in my backpack and doesn’t take up too much room.

A. Thanks for the question, Stephen. The easiest thing is to buy a pre-made survival kit like the SOL (Survive Outdoors Longer) Scout ($25; adventuremedicalkits.com). This compact 5.4-ounce kit includes a compass, signal mirror, rescue whistle, survival blanket, fishing kit, fire starter and duct tape all packed inside a mini waterproof drybag that won’t take up much room in your backpack.

A. Here’s what you can do: Next time you’re camping, bring along an old towel from home. Lay it down at the entrance to your tent, like a welcome mat. Whenever you go to get inside your tent, just sit on the towel and take off your boots. Leave the shoes outside of your tent (hopefully dry and safe under a vestibule, brush off your feet and then climb inside. The towel and taking off your boots before you go inside will help stop some of the junk you might otherwise track in the tent.

This special video edition of Stuff We Like shows you a real trail lifesaver. Find out more information at quikclot.com.

Q. Help, Gear Guy! What do you do if your waterproof hiking boots have become un-water resistant? My boots shoe bottoms are coming off too!

A. Your feet get wet! Just kidding, Pete. Fixing your boots should actually be pretty easy. You just need to apply a waterproofing spray or rub-on wax. Try Nikwax Waterproofing Wax for Leather ($6; nikwax.com) or ReviveX Nubuck, Suede & Fabric Spray Water Repellent ($8; mcnett.com).

1) Clean your boots. Grab a soft-bristled brush. Rinse your boots with cool water and brush the dirt and grime off the seams and stitching. Clean the insides too.

2) Dry the boots. Pick a warm, dry place where they can air dry. You can stuff newspaper inside the boots to help them dry out more quickly.

3) Waterproofing. Finally, spray on or rub in a waterproofing product.

Now, onto the soles of your boots which are peeling off. That’s an easy fix too. They make glues just for this called Shoe Goo ($6; eclecticproducts.com) and McNett Freesole Urethane Formula Shoe Repair ($8; mcnett.com).

1) Clean the area. Use a brush to clean out any dirt, rocks, whatever that might be caught between your sole and the boot. Rubbing alcohol will help it get really clean.

2) Glue the sole. Follow the directions on the glue you buy, but basically you just apply it to the sole evenly and then reapply the sole.

3) Keep it in place using a C-clamp, or can of beans or a full waterbottle sitting inside your boot to weight down on the sole.

Q. Dear Gear Guy, When I’m out camping I need to keep my eyes safe. I want to buy some sunglasses. But where can I find a pair for under $50?

A. Hey Dylan, I totally hear where you’re coming from—it’s important to protect your eyes, but there are tons of very expensive sunglasses out there. And where are the affordable ones? Lucky for you there are actually plenty of inexpensive options under the $50 mark. For example, check out these cool polarized shades with lightweight nylon frames and shatter-proof lenses: Pepper’s Empire Maker ($35; peppersusa.com). Pepper’s has many other styles in the $35 range. Also check out other affordable brands like Ryders (ryderseyewear.com), Optic Nerve (nerveusa.com) and Sun Cloud (suncloudoptics.com), which is a lower-end brand manufactured by high-end Smith Optics. REI also carries a sunglass brand called Chili’s which hover in the $20 to $25 range (rei.com).

Q. Hey Gear Guy, I run a lot, and I like to run while at summer camp. Problem is, when I wear my normal running shoes, I get blisters; and when I wear a hiking shoe, it chafes my ankles. Any suggestions for a running shoe that is good for a rough camp trail?

A. Hey Josh. Good question. First off, hiking shoes don’t make the best running shoes because they are usually too heavy and stiff for running. What you need is a trail running shoe. Trail runners are much like normal running shoes except they have more support, traction and durable soles designed to help cushion your feet from the irregular terrain and pounding you get while running on rough trails. A good all-around trail runner that has plenty of stability, extra traction, and won’t break the bank is the Brooks Trailblade ($85; brooksrunning.com). As for getting blisters while wearing your normal running shoes, spend the extra money and buy a quality pair of socks like the Drymax 1/4 Trail Running ($11.50; drymaxsports.com) with good cushioning and material that wicks the sweat away to keep your feet dry and hopefully, blister-free.

Q. Hey Gear Guy, What kinds of things do you need to look for when shopping for a hammock tent?

A. Ahh, hammock tents — if you’ve been following the Gear Guy you know I LOVE camping in a hammock tent. They keep you up off the ground, they’re usually simple to pitch, and pound for pound they are the most comfortable way to sleep on the trail. O.K., when shopping for a new one here are some things to consider:

• How easy is it to set up/pitch?
• Does it have enough ventilation?
• Total weight? Is it light enough for backpacking?
• How small does it pack down?
• Does it come with insect-proof mesh?
• What about a rainfly for bad weather?
• Is it easy to get in and out of the hammock?

There are quite a few hammock tent options on the market, but here are two of my favorites:

–Hennessy Expedition Asym ($140; hennessyhammock.com) weighs just 2 lbs. 12 oz. with built-in mosquito netting and a detachable rainfly.

–Eagles Nest Outfitters (ENO) OneLink Hammock Shelter System ($200; www.eaglesnestoutfittersinc.com) really easy to pitch and comes with a slip-on bug net and rainfly; weighs in at 4 pounds 4 ounces.

CHEEP VS. STEEP
Gear Guy knows you’re on a budget. But because everyone’s budget is different, he has provided multiple options. “Cheap” gear listed here is great stuff. It has been studied and tested and ranks among the best offerings in its price range. When you’re ready to move up to higher-end gear, the “Steep” options provide room to grow. You can often find great deals at online sites such as eBay, where there usually are lots of cheap, barely used climbing shoes.

HELMET
The good ol’ brain bucket is one of the most important pieces of climbing gear because it protects your head from hitting something as well as from falling rocks and gear. Wear only a UIAA- or CEN-approved climbing helmet; bicycle and football helmets aren’t acceptable because they’re not designed to protect you from falling objects. If you’re warm-natured or climbing somewhere hot, look for a light-colored helmet with plenty of ventilation. But most important, pick one that fits comfortably snug.
Cheap: Petzl Elios ($66; www.petzl.com)
Steep: Black Diamond Tracer ($90; www.blackdiamondequipment.com)

SHOES
Athletic shoes and light hikers are fine for beginning climbers. But if you want more performance, you’ll need climbing-specific shoes. There are several types, from tight-fitting sock-like climbing slippers, to flexible and super grippy friction shoes, to edging shoes, which provide performance with more comfort. Climbing shoes should be tight but not painfully so. You might size down a size or two from your street shoe when picking a climbing shoe. They are also usually available for rent at climbing gyms and are sometimes provided for use at Scout camps.
Cheap: La Sportiva Tarantula ($80; www.sportiva.com)
Steep: Scarpa Vapor Lace ($140; www.scarpa.com)

HARNESS
A harness comfortably distributes your weight and allows you to attach yourself to the belay rope. Always follow the manufacturer’s recommendations on how to attach to the harness. Tie the belay rope directly to your harness rather than using a carabiner. The waist belt and loops distribute your weight in many directions for comfort and safety in the event of a fall. Though it’s possible to tie a seat harness from a single piece of webbing, a commercially made harness is more comfy. Pick a harness that is tight but not so much that it restricts your movement. When in doubt, choose the smaller size.
Cheap: Black Diamond Alpine Bod ($38; www.blackdiamondequipment.com)
Steep: Mammut Zephir ($100; www.mammut.ch)

CARABINERS
A locking carabiner is used to attach the belay device to your harness. Carabiners are essential for rappelling and belaying other climbers. Good carabiners are made of aluminum alloy or high-grade steel, with spring-loaded gates that snap closed. They can be oval, D-shaped or pear-shaped and come in either locking or nonlocking options. Usually, the lighter and stronger a carabiner is, the more expensive it will be. Beware of look-alike carabiners — things like climbing key rings and accessory holders that are not designed for climbing, as they won’t be strong enough to support your body weight.
Cheap: Black Diamond Oval Carabiner ($5.50; www.blackdiamondequipment.com)
Steep: Omega Pacific ISO Locking Standard D Screwgate Carabiner
($9.50; www.omegapac.com)

BELAY DEVICE
Belaying is a safety technique that provides friction to a climbing rope while your partner is climbing so he cannot fall very far if he slips. There are several types of belay devices, including a slotted plate and a tube device. The tube device is most popular because it provides friction with minimal heat. There are also specialized belay devices, like the GriGri, which automatically locks up the rope when loaded with tension (a lot like a seat belt in a car). These are commonly used at climbing gyms.
Cheap: Black Diamond ATC ($17; www.blackdiamondequipment.com)
Steep: Petzl GriGri 2 ($95; boyslife.org/links/petzl)*

*IMPORTANT NOTE: Early models of GriGri 2 have been recalled because of a potential problem in which the handle may become stuck open. Serial numbers between 10326 and 11136 are affected.

CHALK
Your grip is super important while climbing. Chalk helps dry your hands (by removing sweat and moisture) and improves your hold on the rock. Most climbers use loose chalk in a bag or chalk balls (you can make your own by filling a cut-off stocking with chalk). Though it’s perfect for gyms and manmade climbing towers, chalk stays visible on rocks, making it look unnatural and conflicting with Leave No Trace principles. Always follow local regulations regarding chalk use when climbing in the wild.
• Metolius Super Chalk ($3.75 for 4.5 oz.; www.metoliusclimbing.com)
• Mad Rock Koala Chalkbag ($15; www.madrockclimbing.com)

TRAINING AIDE
You don’t have to be out in nature on a real rock or in a climbing gym to train for rock climbing. Many climbers use grip trainers to build the muscles of the hand and forearm. Others hang pull-up style training boards in their home to practice various climbing holds and moves.
Cheap: Power Putty Hand Strengthener ($8; www.powerputty.com)
Steep: DynaFlex Pro Gyro Ball Hand Exerciser ($25; www.mydfx.com)
Steeper: Metolius Project Training Board ($55; www.metoliusclimbing.com)

TIPS & TRICKS

CLIMBING BASICS
Here’s how rock climbing works: While the climber works his way up the rock face (which can vary from a slight incline to vertical to an overhang) another guy belays him. The climber wears a harness that is attached to a rope held by the belayer, who uses a simple device to add friction to the rope when needed. As the climber climbs, the belayer maintains tension on the rope and takes in or feeds out rope as needed. If the climber slips and falls, the belayer can easily and safely stop his fall.

THREE POINTS ON THE ROCK
The most efficient way to climb is using the three-point stance — keeping two hands and one foot on the rock at all times while moving the free foot to a new location, or having both feet and one hand on holds as the free hand moves. Lean out from the wall slightly so your body weight rests on your feet. Your hands should be used primarily for balance so your stronger leg muscles can do the bulk of the climbing work.

BRAINS OVER BRAWN
Use your mind, not just your muscles, when climbing. Always look ahead up the rock thinking about where you should place your hands and feet next. Think several moves ahead of where you are and mentally create a route to follow. Also look sideways for other hand and foot placements.

LEARNING THE ROPES
One of the most important pieces of climbing gear is the rope. While beginners usually don’t own their own ropes, it’s good to know the different types. Dynamic rope stretches when put under load (like your body weight), so it can absorb some of the shock of a falling climber. Static ropes stretch less — they are best for things like hauling gear up the rock — and are not suitable for situations in which a climber may fall. (Keep in mind: Unless you’re climbing on your own, you’ll never have to provide your own ropes. In fact, Scout camps won’t even let you bring your own carabiners, ropes or belay devices because they have to ensure the history of all gear used.)

BE 13
Most Boy Scout councils and summer camps will
not allow boys to participate in climbing until
they are at least 13. Even then, never go climbing
without a qualified BSA climbing instructor.

DRESS TO CLIMB
When climbing, always wear a comfortable shirt and pants to avoid scrapes and abrasions on the rock. Loose clothing is good, but stay away from baggy clothes because they may get caught on the rock
or interfere with your movement.

Q. What is your best idea of a survival shelter? How would you build it?

A. Best survival shelter? I call that a “cabin.” Just kidding, Jhon. In all seriousness, it’s great that you’re being prepared enough to think through a potential emergency like getting stuck out in the wilderness. While some survivalists recommend building a shelter out of sticks and leaves, you’re probably better off using your precious energy getting found (or un-lost) than building some kind of lean-to.

Always carry with you this portable shelter: a heavy-duty, 4 mm-thick orange plastic bag (approx. 38” x 65”). Just cut a hole for your face, crawl inside and hunker down for the night. It might not look pretty, but it’s lightweight, packable, cheap and it’ll stop the wind and rain and could save your life. Hypothermia (loss of your body’s core temperature) is one of the main causes of death in survival situations.

Q. Hey Gear Guy, my patrol is going to Philmont for two weeks this summer, and I need some help. I hear that the weather is unpredictable there and I was wondering if you could help me decide on what kind of gear we should bring?

A. You’re right, Casey. Summer in the Southern Rockies can be very unpredictable indeed. And the big changes in elevation at Philmont Scout Ranch near Cimarron, N.M., add to the changeable weather. Basecamp is at an elevation of 6,700 feet while Baldy Mountain rises to 12,441 feet. That’s a lot of feet! According to Mark Anderson (he’s director of programs and Philmont’s main man) the temperature is around three degrees cooler for every 1,000 feet of elevation gain. Do the math — and you’ll see it’ll be a lot chillier atop Baldy.

So here’s how Anderson recommends packing for Philmont:

“We recommend layers,” he says. “If a Scout brings a long-sleeve shirt (wool or synthetic), a sweater or jacket (wool or polar fleece), a good rain jacket and a lightweight stocking cap, he will be comfortable at most weather conditions.”

Q. On camp-outs I see some boys with cots and others with bedrolls. Which should I use?

A. Personally, I prefer a bedroll. Cots are definitely comfy and keep you off the ground, which in theory should make you warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer. But here are some of the downsides of a cot: They can be bulky, take more time to set up, can malfunction or break (leaving you with no bed), and are way more expensive than a basic bedroll. And if you plan on doing some backpacking, it makes sense for you to start getting used to sleeping on the ground in your tent.

Q. What is better to buy: A bivvy or just a lightweight tent?

A. That depends on what you plan on doing, Gabe. For general backpacking and camping uses, a lightweight tent is much more versatile and comfortable than a bivvy. A bivvy is basically a waterproof one-man tent that’s shaped like a sleeping bag. It’s very lightweight and compact and perfect if you’re doing ultralight backpacking in inclement weather. That said, bivvies are tight, usually not very breathable, and even claustrophobic for some. Sure, a lightweight tent will weigh a bit more and probably be more expensive, but in the long run you’ll get much more use out of a tent.

Q. How do you get sand out of your knife’s insides?

A. Hey Adam. Sand is definitely a big problem when it comes to folding pocketknives. And it doesn’t really take much sand to foul up the folding and locking mechanism.

Try to blow the grit out of the knife using an air compressor (some dads have these in their workshops). If you don’t have access to an air compressor, you can buy a can of compressed air that’s typically used for cleaning computers and other electronics. You can find it at most office supply stores and electronics shops for about $7-$10. Just aim the air into all the nooks and crannies of your knife and try to blast the sand out.

Once you’ve got most of it out, lubricate your knife (and especially the folding mechanism) with a basic 3-in-1 oil. Do that and your knife should be sand-free and ready for business.

Q. My sleeping bag zippers always break off. This is my second sleeping bag that broke and I don’t have any extra money to keep buying a new one over and over again. PLEASE HELP!!

A. Wow, Mr. Zaragoza, that does sound like a problem. But there’s no reason to shout—I can hear you fine.

OK, just because you’re having problems with the zipper on your sleeping bag doesn’t mean you need to throw it out and buy a new one. Same goes for bum zippers on a tent or a rain jacket. Simply try to fix it with a repair kit like the Gear Aid Zipper Repair Kit ($10; mcnett.com). It comes with several replacement zippers and repair tools, plus a short manual on how to fix your zipper. That should do the trick for you.

When you’re on an extended camping/hiking trip, it’s also a good idea for you or someone else in your troop to carry a zipper repair kit like this because a broken tent zipper can turn into a pretty big problem on the trail.

Q. Yo, Gear Guy, Where can you find some Boy Scout socks? I need a couple pairs for campouts and for board of reviews.

A. Yo, Sockless. That’s simple: Buy them online at ScoutStuff.org. They have more than a dozen of official Boy Scout socks to choose from, starting at $2 and up to about $16. Done.

Q. Gear Guy, I’m going on a Boy Scout backpacking trip in a couple of weeks with my son to Utah. We will be walking through water and sand for three days at the bottom of the canyon. Any recommendation for an inexpensive pair of water shoes for my son (age 16)? Thanks for your help.

A. Here’s what you need to consider, Dad: Your feet will be very sandy and very wet during this hike. Water shoes are fine for some applications, but when you have sand and grit and dirt constantly rubbing between wet shoes and your feet you’re going to get blisters and irritation. So, the first thing you should invest in is a pair of neoprene socks. These things are made from thin wetsuit material and will keep your feet warm and protect your skin from rubbing raw. A good option is the NRS Sandal Sock ($20; nrsweb.com). Your son could wear those with an old pair of running shoes and be good to go. If you’re set on getting him a new pair of water shoes, look at brands like Teva, Keen, Salomon and Merrell, and expect to pay a minimum of around $75 retail (you might be able to find cheaper prices online). So I guess I can’t really help you with inexpensive water shoes. Just get your son the neoprene socks and use an old pair of running shoes. Have fun on your trip!

Q. Dear Gear Guy, My son and I saw your knife reviews…his question is (him typing now)…where can I buy the Leatherman Fuse?

A. Hey Mike and Dad, If you want to find a store that sells Leatherman products, click here. You can also find the Fuse online. I saw it for about $33 at amazon.com and walmart.com. Happy shopping!

Q. Dear Gear Guy, I have a tent with a waterproof fly, but I still get wet. Why is that?

A. Hey Soggy Sam. Thanks for the question. There are a couple reasons you’re getting wet. First off, if you’re not staking out your tent and fly correctly, water will definitely find its way into your tent. You need to make sure the rainfly’s lines are taut and that it keeps the fly off the fabric of your tent. It’s also possible your rainfly isn’t waterproof. Over time the tent’s factory-applied waterproofing can wear off—and then you get wet!

Here’s how to re-waterproof your rainfly and tent. Start with a tube of Monet’s Seam Grip (about $7; mcnett.com). Put your rainfly on top of your tent inside out and carefully reseal all the seams (those are the parts where there’s stitching and the fabric is sewn together). Also apply Seam Grip along the perimeter of the floor inside your tent. Next, flip your rainfly over, pitch it properly andspray it with a silicone waterproofer like McNett’s Thunder Shield (also about $7). That should keep you dry for a good long time.

Q. Hey Gear Guy, I was just wondering what kinds of special gear my troop should get when going on a canoe trip? We are going down the Delaware River and as ASPL I was assigned to learn what sorts of stuff we needed. We are only going for a couple days and I would be really grateful if you could help. Thanks so much.

A. Here’s a quick checklist for you, Zach:

• PFD (a.k.a. life jacket)
• Canoe paddle
• Spare paddle
• Dry bag
• Lightweight rain gear
• Sunglasses with strap
• Sunscreen, non-oily cream sunscreen
• Water bottle with clip
• Swim trunks
• Wide-brimmed hat
• Towel
• Insect repellant, DEET based
• Water sandals
• Plus all your regular camping gear (tent, sleeping bag, first-aid kit, etc.)

Q. Dear Gear Guy, Is it a good idea to wear steel-toed boots for hiking?

A. So, Jason, steel-toed boots for hiking? Nah, not the best idea. Steel-toed boots are required when working on a job site (to help protect your toes from getting crushed by an errant hammer or some such) but they are going to be overkill for the trail, heavier weight, and not as comfortable as traditional hiking boots.

Q. Hey Gear Guy! What kind of jacket do you recommend for Philmont Scout Ranch? I need the jacket to be preferably something light and under $100.

A. Hey there, Curious. Good question. I called our buddy Mark Anderson, Philmont’s director of programs (that means he’s the boss!), and he recommended packing a fleece jacket that’s designed to block the wind. By nature, fleece is lightweight, but your ‘under $100’ requirement is a bit tougher to meet for a wind-blocking fleece. That said, I did a quick search and found these two jackets, which would be great for chilly weather at Philmont. Stay warm!

• REI Windbrake Thermal Fleece Jacket ($89.50; rei.com)
• The North Face Windwall 1 Fleece Jacket ($70-$100; thenorthface.com)

Q. Sometimes on hikes or camping trips I pack a little bit too much or a little bit too little clothing. How can I restrict myself from packing an amount of clothing that is wrong?

A. Some people recommend packing what you think you need, then cutting the load in half. While that might work for some, it might also leave you out on the trail missing important gear that you really need. A better bet is to use one of our handy Gear Guy packing lists. We compiled lists for several different types of outings so you should be covered pretty much no matter where you’re headed. You can check them out here.

Q. I need a good knife for exploring a forest. I want a knife that either unfolds or stays open. Any suggestions?

A. Exploring a forest, huh? Sounds fun. I think your best bet is a folding knife like the new Gerber Mini Swagger ($27; gerbergear.com). It has a 2.8-inch long fine edge stainless steel blade that locks open so it won’t fold back on your fingers while you’re using it. The Mini Swagger is pretty compact and weighs just 2.9 ounces so you can stash it in your pants pocket or pack, but it’s still plenty big to handle any kind of cutting jobs you’ll encounter out there on the trail. Plus, with its jet black color and machined handle, this knife looks super cool, like something a Navy SEAL would carry!

Q. My son wants a fire-starter. Which is the best and easiest?

A. Hey, Mama. The real question is: Are you sure you really want your son to have a fire-starter? Just kidding. If he’s a Scout, I’m sure he’ll be responsible with it. A good option is the Light My Fire steel Scout ($12; lightmyfireusa.com). It’s basically a flint and steel set that was first designed for the Swedish military but is now used by outdoorsmen. Just scrape the steel across the flint and it throws a strong spark. It even works when wet. If your son gathers kindling and dry sticks and aims the sparks onto a cotton ball with a dab of Vaseline, he should be able to easily start a good fire. To make things even easier, he might also try Light My Fire Maya Dust ($5; lightmyfireusa.com). Just sprinkle some of the pulverized pieces of fatwood pine at the base of your soon-to-be fire and it’ll light quickly and easily and produce an extra hot flame.

Q. I don’t have a pair of hiking boots, but I do have a pair of Georgia Giant work boots that come eight inches over the ankle. Would they work? Or should I get a pair of hikers instead?

A. First off, remember you don’t have to have any kind of special gear to enjoy the outdoors. Of course, you can hike in those work boots and be just fine. That said, with those eight-inch high ankles and steel toes they are what I’d call “overkill” for hiking. You’ll definitely be more comfortable on the trail with a pair designed specifically for hiking. If you’ll be hiking (and not backpacking) you can get away with a low-cut hiking shoe that is almost as lightweight and comfortable as a running shoe but with beefier hiking-specific traction. If you’ll be carrying a backpacking pack, then you’ll want a heavier-duty boot that provides plenty of over the ankle support too.

For more help and hiking shoe and boot buying tips, check out this Guy Gear buyer’s guide here.

Q. My troop is sending boys to Sea Base and I was wondering about good inexpensive waterproof watch. Any ideas about where I could get one?

A. There are lots of inexpensive watch options. Check out Amazon.com and search for “Casio sports watches.” I found a few that meet your needs including the Casio Men’s W800H-1AV Classic Digital Sports Watch (retail $20; casio.com). It’s water resistant to 100 meters and has a 10-year battery life

Q. This is not so much a gear question but a technique question: My buddy and I plan to backpack a 24-mile point-to-point trail one weekend, camping halfway. Problem, we only have one car. How do we get back to our car at the end of the trail?

A. That one’s easy: Buy another car! I’d recommend the Ferrari Testarossa, but you might want something with a little bit more trunk space. If you can’t afford another car, there are two other options. One, if the trail you’re taking is a relatively busy one like, say, some sections of the Appalachian Trail or other well-traveled routes there are often local people that you can pay to “shuttle” your car for you. Basically you’d pick them up in town, and they’d ride with you out to the trailhead. Then, you pay them a fee and they drive the car to your destination for you. Often you can find shuttle services like that through local outfitter’s shops or general stores. Finally, if all else fails, there’s Option Two: Just make your trip and out-and-back.

Cabela’s Backcountry Hikers
($60; cabelas.com)
These waterproof boots have leather uppers with nylon side panels and plenty of padding in the ankle and tongue for extra support. At $60, they’re also the most affordable waterproof boots in our roundup, and we even saw them on sale online for $40! Approx. 3 lbs. per pair.

Hi-Tec Mokala Mid
($55; hi-tec.com)
With a combo of suede leather and breathable mesh and a steel shank in the sole, the Mokalas provide good support, especially for a mid-ankle cut boot. While not waterproof, this boot has a moisture-wicking lining to pull sweat away and keep your feet dry. Approx. 2 lbs. 8 oz. per pair.

L.L. Bean Waterproof Trail Model Hikers
($89; llbean.com)
Though these boots are considered mid-cut hikers, they are cut quite high and offer enough ankle support for a multiday trip carrying a moderate load. They are made with a combo of nylon and suede leather and feature a waterproof, breathable membrane. If wet feet aren’t a concern, check out the nonwaterproof version of this same boot for just $59. Approx. 2 lbs. 12 oz. per pair.

Merrell Moab Ventilator
($95; merrell.com)
By far the lightest-weight true boots in our roundup, these mid-top Ventilators feel like a pair of comfy running shoes. The breathable mesh uppers have leather strapping that provides extra support without making the boots too heavy. They have nice Vibram-brand soles and are a good choice for summer hiking. Approx. 1 lb. 15 oz. per pair.

Columbia Coremic Ridge 2
($65; columbia.com)
The Coremic Ridge 2’s uppers are breathable mesh with suede leather overlays to give your foot more support. Though they aren’t waterproof, these boots are treated with Columbia’s Omni-Shield for water and stain resistance. We found them cheaper online and in stores, for around $50. Approx. 2 lbs. 10.5 oz. per pair.

Vasque Ranger GTX
($110; vasque.com)
An entry-level boot from well-respected boot maker Vasque, the mesh and suede leather Ranger has features, like waterproof, breathable Gore-Tex and a durable rubber rand around the toe, you usually find only on higher-priced boots. We saw the Ranger GTX discounted on Amazon.com for just 89 bucks. Approx. 2 lbs. 14 oz. per pair.

Timberland White Ledge Hiker
($85; shop.timberland.com)
These waterproof boots have an almost entirely full-grain leather upper with fewer seams for greater durability. A mid-cut, well-padded nylon ankle provides support while a moisture-wicking interior does its best to keep your feet from getting wet with sweat on hot days. Approx.
2 lbs. 5 oz. per pair.

Helly Hansen Trackfinder
($75; hellyhansen.com)
Low-cut hikers like these are a great option for those times when you’re not carrying a backpack and don’t need extra ankle support. They are comfortable like a sneaker but still provide enough shock absorption for rocky, rugged trails. Approx. 1 lb. 11.5 oz. per pair.

SHOP SMART … with these five smart boot-buying tips.

Try before you buy. Put them on and hike around the store for at least 10 minutes to check proper fit.

Bring socks. Always bring a pair of your own hiking socks to the store for trying on boots.

Lace ’em up. Make sure the boots are laced up correctly and snug for best fit.

Shop late. Your feet are largest in the afternoon, so shop then.

Fit right. Yes, your feet are still growing, but buy boots that fit right now; never buy them large so you’ll grow into them. Loose-fitting boots can be dangerous and uncomfortable on the trail.

Q. I’ve been in Scouts for about a year and I was wondering why my backpack is so heavy. I only pack about two pairs of jeans, extra socks and two shirts. I also pack a mess kit and a flashlight plus batteries. My sleeping pad is not heavy; neither is my sleeping bag. Why might my pack be so heavy and do you know how to fix it?

A. The first thing you said that raises a red flag is that you always pack two pairs of jeans. Now, I love jeans as much as the next guy, but they probably aren’t the best choice for outings for a couple of reasons: 1) they do weigh a lot, about 1 to 1.5 pounds per pair; 2) when they get wet, they weigh tons more and give you zero insulation from the cold.

So, swap those jeans for a single pair of nylon zip-off pants. They are more versatile (can become shorts when you’re warm), quick-drying and weigh only about 10 or 12 ounces—half as much as a pair of jeans. If it’s cold, throw in a pair of long underwear to layer underneath. As for two shirts, that’s not excessive, but just make sure that the two shirts you bring can work together. So, for example, bring one long sleeve and one short sleeve. They should be made of a quick-dry polyester blend or even wool, both of which will keep you warm even when wet. When it gets cold, wear them layered together.

Finally, pack only what you really need. Click here to check out some of our easy-to- follow gear packing lists.

Q. I am looking for a type of tent that can zip onto other tents (of the same style) for my friends to use on campouts so we can each have our own living quarters.

A. Good question, Drayton. I have seen a couple modular tent systems over the years. The coolest one I’ve found is The North Face Docking Station ($429; thenorthface.com), which is basically a 97-square-foot canopy-style tent that could serve as your “living room.” It has four roll-up doors to which you can attach as many as three other tents, each sold separately, including the 2-person Dock ($119) or the 4-person Dock ($159). If you have a LOT of friends, you could also add the Mesh Room ($149), which fits inside the Docking Station itself, providing screened protection from bugs and sleeps up to six. Naturally, this kind of tent system is best for basecamp or car camping rather than backpacking because of its size and weight.

Q. Gear Guy, I am trying to find a tent that is lightweight, and very well ventilated to prevent condensation, but without being too expensive. Do you have any suggestions?

A. Dear Wesley. Thanks for the good question. There are lots of things that can create condensation inside a tent, including a wet environment, morning dew, dropping temperatures, even moisture from your own body. If you have your tent pitched correctly, the condensation should collect on your rainfly and not so much on the inner tent itself. The trick is staking out the tent and rainfly correctly so there’s space and airflow between both. Of course, as you mentioned, picking a tent with tons of ventilation will help reduce condensation too.

Here are two good tent options. The body of both of the tents are made almost entirely of mesh so you’ll have lots of good airflow. You said you wanted something lightweight and inexpensive: hate to break it to you Wes, but lightweight and expensive go hand in hand.

• Big Agnes Seedhouse 1 ($190; bigagnes.com) 3 lbs. 10 oz.
• Coleman Hooligan 2 ($60; coleman.com) 8.9 lbs.

Keep in mind, no matter which tent you choose, if there’s dew on the ground you’ll still likely get some condensation on your rainfly. But with your tent pitched correctly, you’ll stay dry and as soon as the sun starts shining the rainfly will dry quickly too.

Q. My rain pants are leaking because there is a hole on the inside of the leg on the seam. I want to be thrifty because I am a Boy Scout. I would like your advice as to how to repair them. If I am not able to fix them, what should I pay for a new pair?

A. What’s up, Leaky Pants? Oh sorry, that didn’t come out right. Anyway, thanks for the question. Here’s your answer: Get out the old needle and thread and do the best sewing job you can on that seam. Maybe get an adult to help if you need it. Now, here’s the part that should cure your leaking. Get a hold of some McNett Seam Grip ($7; www.mcnett.com). Turn your pants inside out and apply a thin layer of Seam Grip to the repair spot. Spread the stuff a quarter inch around the repair and let it dry flat overnight. That should make the seam waterproof again.

If they’re beyond repair, expect to spend a minimum of $30-$50 for a new pair of rain pants. Products in this entry-level category will likely be coated in polyurethane for waterproofing but won’t be all that breathable or especially durable. You’ll have to spend twice as much or more for a pair that will be more durable and breathe well enough for highly aerobic activities where you’ll be sweating a lot. Hope this helps. Stay dry!

• AA: burntime: 6 hrs. 45 min. / beam distance: 154 feet
• AAA: burntime: 2 hrs. 30 min. / beam distance: 158 feet
• CR123: burntime: 4 hrs. 30 min. / beam distance: 200 feet

The Omnivore retails for nearly $40 but I found it online for just $27 — not bad for a flashlight that can eat most any kind of battery you throw at it!

Here is a sample packing list from a backpacker who participated in an ultralight trek last summer based out of the Montana Council’s Montana High Adventure Base.

• Down Balaclava, 2.05 oz
• Sunglasses, 0.82 oz
• Sun Hat, 1.97 oz
• Mosquito Head Net, 0.33 oz
• Base Layer Clothing, 5 oz
• Down Jacket, 7.67 oz
• Rain Jacket, 7.69 oz
• Wool Shirt, 5.06 oz
• Down Gloves, 1.45 oz
• Hiking Pants, 10 oz
• Rain Pants, 3.57 oz
• Down Pants, 10.64 oz
• Boxer Briefs, 4.21 oz
• Trail Shoes, 7.8 oz
• Wool Socks, 2.51 oz
• Gaiters,  1.89 oz
• Down Quilt, 17.8 oz
• Sleeping Pad, 8.7 oz
• Bivy Sack, 5.10 oz
• Pillow, 0.93 oz
• Backpack, 1 pound, 13 oz
• Pack Liner, 1.32 oz
• Stuff Sacks, 0.67 oz
• LED Flashlight, .28 oz
• Sunscreen, 0.32 oz
• Lip Protection, 0.34 oz
• Compass, 0.95 oz
• Whistle, 0.29 oz
• Notebook, 2.08 oz
• Bandana, 1.09 oz
• Mug, 1.75 oz
• Spoon, 0.27 oz
• Water Bottle, 1.3 oz
• Trekking Poles, 8.39 oz
• Bug Spray, 0.30 oz
• Pocketknife, 1.49 oz

For more information about ultralight backpacking, see the “Faster, Farther, Stronger and Lighter” article in the April 2011 issue of Boys’ Life magazine.

Q. Dear Gear Guy, I’ve been searching everywhere for a reversible rain jacket, with one side to be waterproof, the other side just to keep me warm. Think you can help?

A. Hey Luis, Thanks for the question. I can definitely tell you why you haven’t been able to find such a jacket: because it doesn’t exist (at least not as far as I know). Here’s the deal, you’re better off layering with a fleece type pullover to keep you warm, and an inexpensive water-resistant shell jacket for when it’s raining. Cold and raining? Wear them both together. Companies like Columbia (www.columbia.com) sell versatile 2-in-1 jackets that are basically a waterproof shell with a zip out fleece liner — it’s all about the layering!

Click here to find out more about rain jackets in BL‘s Shell Jacket Buying Guide

Q. Hey Gear Guy, I’ve been bass fishing for a couple years now but I really wanna get into fly fishing too. My friends say it’s really expensive—so can you recommend a simple, cheap fly rod and reel to get me started?

A. Thanks for the question, Frankie. Fly fishing is a great sport, though as you mentioned, it can indeed be expensive. One quick and easy way to get geared up is to buy an all-in-one starter outfit that comes with rod, reel and line. I looked around for an affordable, yet full featured and quality combo and here’s what I found: The Redington Minnow Kid’s Outfit ($100; www.redington.com) comes with a eight foot long medium-action two-piece graphite fly rod with a Crosswater reel, fly line and pre-spooled leader. This setup is geared to anglers up to 12 years old, but don’t let this thing fool you: a couple of my fishiest fly fishing buddies spent an afternoon playing with the Minnow and were fired up on it. The same company also makes the similar Crosswater Youth Outfit ($139) which has a 9-foot rod and is marketed to teenagers. Both are ready-to-fish straight out of the box and though they retail for $100 plus, look around online and you’ll likely find the Minnow for as low as $70. Happy fishing!

Q. Dear Gear Guy, I would like a good quality but inexpensive Buck knife. I saw the article in September 2008 about the fixed-blade knives, but my troop does not allow sheath or fixed-blade knives. What can you recommend?

A. Hey there, Buckless. Happy to help. A nice basic folding knife from Buck would be the Bantam BLW ($24; buckknives.com). It weighs just 2.4 ounces and has a 3 1/8-inch long stainless steel blade that can be locked open so it won’t fold back on your hand while you’re using it. If you want a shorter blade or just a less expensive knife check out the Bantam BBW ($19) which comes with a 2 ¾-inch blade. One question for you now: Once you have a new Buck, we can’t call you Buckless anymore, right?

Q. Dear Gear Guy, I need a good camping pillow that is not too expensive and can be used easily on backpacking trips.

A. Hey man, thanks for the question. Getting quality sleep on the trail is definitely super important, and often the key is having a comfy pillow. There are a couple options to consider. Though some use inflatable pillows, I find those uncomfortable and much prefer either a regular travel pillow or simply a stuffsack filled with my extra clothes. Here are two products to consider:

• REI Basecamp Pillow ($10.50; rei.com) This one is a basic, comfy pillow that’s relatively compressible and lightweight. Affordable too!
• Therm-a-Rest Trekker Pillow Case ($10.95; cascadedesigns.com/Therm-A-Rest) When I’m backpacking, I usually use a simple nylon stuffsack for my pillow case. It works but this soft, brushed polyester pillow case is way more comfortable.

The Cateye Loop is a set of quarter-sized LED lights, one white light for the front of your bike and a red tail light. They are powered by a pair of CR2032 batteries (comes with the light) and can give you 50 hours of bright LED light in flashing mode or 30 hours in the constant mode. Loop lights have a stretchy elastic band and clasp that lets you attach the lights anywhere on your bike: handlebars, seat post, anywhere.

The Cateye Orbit is of similar size and power but is designed to slide easily onto the spokes of your wheel, like a reflector, providing a cool, eye-catching light that spins as your wheel turns.

Q. I have been looking for a pot, plate and bowl all for under $50. But I can’t find any?

A. First off, Nick, is your town really named Boring? That’s awesome. And I’ll guess it’s not too boring. OK, I think I’ve found exactly what you need—all for about $25. Here’s what I’d recommend:

• REI Campware Table Set ($11.50; rei.com) You get a polypropylene bowl, plate, and cup with an acetyl spoon, knife, and fork. The whole rig is BPA-free, weighs just 12 ounces and comes with a handy mesh bag that will help air-dry your stuff after washing it.
• MSR Stowaway Pot ($16; cascadedesigns.com/msr) If all you need is a lightweight pot with a lid and handle, this one is perfect. It’s stainless steel, weighs 9.5 ounces and has a half-liter capacity.

Q. What equipment do you need to cook an oyster?  I caught one on my fishing pole. Hope you write back!

A. Hey Tyler, congratulations on landing an oyster with your fishing pole! That’s actually kind of a trick to do. Usually most people harvest oysters by hand, walking at low tide to shallow spots where they can simply pick them up. Once you’ve gathered enough oysters for a meal, or in your case: a single oyster, it’s time to eat.

There are many ways to cook oysters, but below are the easiest methods. Be sure to first clean the oyster’s shell with fresh water and a hard brush (no soap though!). Whichever way you cook oysters, you’ll know they’re done when they start to open their shells. Then, let them cool and use a knife to carefully pry the shell open all the way and scoop out the oyster. You can dip it in butter sauce, cocktail sauce or just pop it in your mouth plain. Enjoy!

• Steaming: Pour a couple inches of water in the bottom of a pot (or steamer with a basket). Toss in the oyster(s) and cover. Cook on the stovetop for 10-20 minutes or until the shells open slightly.

• Baking: Preheat oven to 500 degrees. Put oyster shells on a cookie sheet and cook for 15 to 30 minutes or until the shells crack open.

• Grilling: Just toss them straight onto you barbecue grill on medium high heat, until the shells open.

• Raw: Some people eat them raw, but oysters sometimes carry bacteria that can make you sick. Cooking it will kill that bad stuff, so that’s a good idea.

Q. Hey Gear Guy, I have a problem: I’m getting a little too “old” for my BMX bike. I’ve had it for three years, but now I need a new one. My saddle is too low, and when I stand on the pedals for a while, my back begins to hurt. There’s one big problem: I’m kind of low on the green stuff (if you know what I mean). Any suggestions?

A. I’m guessing you’re growing both older and taller. And eventually that does spell: bigger bike. While most BMX bikes are meant to be ridden with the seat lower than other style bikes, you can use a wrench to raise your seat. If it’s not up all the way (there’s usually a line on the seatpost showing maximum height) raise it up and that might get you a few more months out of your old bike while you look for a new one. You also mention you’re low on cash. Well, if you’re on a budget your best bet is to look for a new used bike. You might be able to find a good deal on a brand new bike at Wal-Mart or something like that, but they often lack durability and quality. You’re way better off looking for a gently used brand name bike in the online classifieds for your local newspaper or on craigslist in your area. Avoid bikes with excessive rust and always take it for a test ride before buying. If you’re patient, there are always good deals to be had on used bikes. Good luck hunting.

Q. Dear Gear Guy. I love skateboarding but every winter it’s snowy and cold and icy where I live so skating outdoors isn’t an option. How do I make sure that I don’t lose all my skillz?

A. Not to worry; there are some things you can still do to keep your skating skills up. First off, if there’s an indoor skatepark where you live, go! If you have a garage, get your mom or dad to pull the cars out and set up a mini-skatepark inside. You can also always practice your ollies, kickflips and such in your living room, even on the carpet. Balance boards, like the Goof Board ($139; www.goofboard.com) help simulate boardsports and are a fun way to improve your balance. Finally, if Old Man Winter gives you snow, go snowboarding! Don’t have a snowboard or mountains? Get an old skateboard deck (minus the trucks and wheels) and just slide around.

With a few ramps in his backyard, he has a great spot to practice right at home, which he does almost every day. Except that Keith doesn’t call it practicing.

“It’s just having a good time with my friends, being creative, doing whatever we want skating.”

Here are some skateboarding tips from Keith:

TIP 1: LEARN HOW TO FALL

It’s a fact, Keith says. “Be prepared for falls when you’re starting.” That’s why it’s important to learn the right way to take a tumble.

If the fall is too big for you to just land on your feet: Use your feet for a second as a stepping point. Tuck up into a ball (something like a skier’s tuck position), and then tumble and roll onto your shoulder.

And, Keith adds, always wear safety gear!

TIP 2: LEARN HOW TO DROP IN ON A RAMP

Start with the tail of your board on the edge of a ramp. Next, push down with the front foot and stay centered over the skateboard.

TIP 3: LEARN HOW TO OLLIE

You’ll be airborne for this trick, which can be done on either a flat surface or on a ramp.

Kick down on the tail of the skateboard and then level out the board by sliding your front foot forward. Think of it as sort of a jumping motion with the board “glued” to your feet.

This will take lots of practice. But once you master the ollie, you’ll have the foundation for many other tricks.

Find out more about skateboarding basics in the February 2011 issue of Boys’ Life magazine.

Q. Hi Gear Guy, I’m a swimmer and our coach has us time our laps with wristwatches, but every waterproof watch I try, the buttons don’t work underwater. What can I do?

A. Yep, not only do the buttons on some waterproof watches not work underwater, on some watches the buttons aren’t even supposed be pressed while submerged or it could damage the watch. Silly, huh? Well, luckily I found the answer to your problems. Check out the Timex Ironman Sleek 150-Lap ($89; timexironman.com). This watch is water-resistant to 100 meters, and features a cool TapScreen Technology. Basically all you have to do to start and stop the stopwatch is tap the face of the screen. No button pushing at all! Cool huh. Though it’s listed at $90, I saw it at Amazon.com for $51. Check it out and keep up the swimming!

Q. Yo Gear Guy, I’m about to go on a winter camp-out and I need some good warm gloves but my budget is just $15. What could I do?

A. A winter camp-out in Nebraska sounds like a brisk event indeed. Brrrrrrrrr! I can see why you’ll need some warm gloves. Okay, $15 is a tight budget, but there are plenty of options. My suggestion is to see if there’s a local military surplus store near your town. If there is, take a look and see what you can find there for cheap. I recommend buy a pair of fleece or wool liner gloves plus an outer shell glove made of nylon or some other water-resistant material. If you don’t have a local surplus store, try the online military surplus e-tailers like Colemans.com, IMSPlus.com, and others. Also keep an eye on the outdoor sports outlet sites like: Campmor.com, REIoutlet.com, and SteepandCheap.com. Good luck, and stay warm.

Q. What skateboards are best for kickflips, grinds and ollies? Which board goes the fastest?

A. First off, the best skateboard for street skating, and doing tricks like kickflips, ollies, etc. is a standard eight-inch wide tongue depressor-shaped skate deck. The brand isn’t really important, just look for one that’s durable with graphics you like. You’ll also want size 149mm trucks, and wheels sized between 52mm to 58mm. If you’re a smaller, lighter guy, pick a wheel in the lower end of that size range. If you’ll mostly be skating on the street and rough surfaces (which I’m guessing you will be), pick a wheel with a hardness of around 97A and above. These harder wheels will give your tricks more pop.

Now, if you want to go really, really fast, you’ll need a hill—and a totally different type of skateboard. Your best bet is to get a longer, wider, hybrid-style deck, something in the 38- to 42-inch long range. You’ll want wheels sized between 74mm to 81mm with a medium soft feel of around 78A to 80A. Then, the final important ingredient is the bearings. These are the things inside your wheels that make them spin really fast. Look for bearings with a rating of between Abec 5 to 7. The higher the rating, the less rolling resistance the bearing has, so theoretically, the faster you’ll go. They’re expensive (about $15 for four bearings) and keep in mind, if you ride your skate through sand or some such, the bearings will get clogged and your very fast skateboard will now be very slow.

Q. Dear Gear Guy, Where can you find unbarbed fishing hooks? I keep on catching pumpkin seed fish, and they have sharp teeth. I think unbarbed hooks would help.

A. Unbarbed hooks (they’re actually called barbless) will definitely make it simpler to get the fish off the hook. They’re especially popular with fly fishermen who do lots of catch-and-release fishing. And as long as you keep good tension on the line as you’re reeling in the fish, you probably won’t lose any more fish than if you were fishing with barbed hooks. That said, barbed hooks help the live bait or worms stay put so you will likely lose a little more bait when fishing with barbless hooks.

You can actually make most any fishing hook barbless. Just ask a parent to help. You’ll need a pair of pliers or a metal file. Have them either bend down the barbs with the pliers until they’re smooth or use the metal file to remove the barbs.

The following lists will help you Be Prepared for times of emergency.

Family Emergency Kit

If you must evacuate your home with little notice …

• Three-day supply of water
• Nonperishable foods (including pet food) and a nonelectric can opener
• Eating utensils
• Special foods for any dietary restrictions, including baby foods
• Family first-aid kit
• Battery- or cranked-powered radio
• Flashlight
• Extra batteries (rotate these out regularly so they don’t go stale in your closet)
• Matches in waterproof container
• Blanket or sleeping bag for each family member
• Extra clothing
• Face masks for air filtering
• Soap, wipes, antibacterial gel
• Toilet paper
• Copies of important family documents in waterproof containers
• Signal whistle
• Local maps
• Cash

Major Disaster Preparedness Items

If you can safely stay in your home during an emergency …

• Fire extinguisher
• Tool kit (with ax, shovel, broom, screwdriver, pliers, hammer, coil of rope, coil of bailing wire, duct tape, razor blades, adjustable wrench for turning off gas or water)
• Chart showing location of shutoff valves in your home, including the main electrical switch
• Portable fire escape ladder for homes or buildings of more than one floor
• Portable butane or charcoal stove (to be used outdoors away from the garage)
• Gloves and cloths for cleaning up dangerous spills
• Covered containers for storing waste
• Garden hose kept near an outside faucet

Personal Emergency Service Pack

If you and your troop are called out to serve during an emergency …

• Poncho or raincoat with hood
• Change or underwear and socks
• Small bag with toiletries
• Sleeping bag and waterproof ground cloth
• Map of area where you’re going
• 50 feet of No. 5 sash cord
• Hand ax, folding saw or pocketknife
• Water treatment equipment
• Cook kit and canteen
• Flashlight
• Battery-powered radio
• Extra batteries
• Hard hart
• Personal first-aid kit
• Matches in waterproof container
• Emergency ration
• Pencil and small notebook
• Handkerchief
• Compass and map of the area (and GPS if you have one, with extra batteries)
• Watch
• Facial tissues
• Work gloves
• Face masks for air filtering

Watch the Scouts competing in the following videos, and find out more about the biathlon in the January 2011 issue of Boys’ Life magazine.

The shooting portion of the biathlon competition is critical. Competitors must remove their skis, rush to the shooting line, catch their breath and shoot as straight as possible. The Scouts loaded their guns in advance of the actual competition.

The Scout biathlon was a team event. Four competitors started with some cross-country skiing. After making a lap around the track, the guys rushed to the shooting range, then sprinted back to the starting line so the next team member could do his part.

In between biathlon training sessions, the Scouts from Troop 4 rode the slopes of Soldier Hollow Cross-Country Ski Resort on tubes, a nice break from the competition of the biathlon.