Q. I have a 45-degree Lafuma mummy sleeping bag and a 15-degree liner to go with it, so it becomes a 30-degree bag. My dad says I’ll be fine in the cold, but I’m not so sure. It gets pretty cold in the tri-state area. What do you think I should do?

A. I think you should give it a shot. Sleep a couple nights out in your bag and find out if it keeps you warm enough. If you’re worried, pitch a tent in the backyard so you’ll be close to home if you do get totally chilled. That said, here are some ways to stay warm inside your sleeping bag: (1) be sure to use a sleeping pad because that will help insulate you from the cold ground, which will quickly suck heat from your body; (2) consider sleeping in warm clothes, like a set of long underwear and wool socks. Also, wear an insulated stocking cap since you lose lots of body heat from the top of your head. Lastly, keep in mind, the temperature ratings on sleeping bags and liners are just general guidelines. It’s up to you to determine at what temperature you can still sleep comfortably in your sleeping bag.

Here’s an easy way to trace your way from one winter constellation to another.

1. In the north winter sky, look for the Big Dipper constellation. It looks like an old well dipper, and is part of Ursa Major, the Great Bear.

2. At the “dipper” end, two stars nicknamed the Pointer Stars form a straight line to Polaris, the North Star. Polaris tips the end of the Little Dipper, also known as Ursa Minor, the Little Bear.

3. From Polaris, draw an imaginary line across the sky to a sideways M constellation recognized as Cassiopeia the Queen.

4. Turn your back to Polaris, and look for three stars in a row. These stars form the belt of Orion the Great Hunter.

5. Trace the belt stars down to the left, or east to the brightest star, Sirius, found in The Great Dog (Canis Major).

6. Trace the belt stars up to the right, or west to a V-shaped constellation, Taurus the Bull.

Q. When I get a new traditional lock-blade knife, it often messes up within the first hour. When I close it, the blade flips in and out and will not completely shut. Why isn’t it working?

A. Without seeing your knife first-hand it’s tough for me to say what’s wrong with it. My guess is that the knife itself wasn’t all that well-made in the first place. I understand that price is usually a concern for most of us, that’s why I’m happy there are knives out there like the SOG AutoClip Mini [$23; sogknives.com]. I’ve field-tested this simple, affordable lock-back knife with its 2.86-inch stainless-steel blade for months and can say it’s well-made and works perfectly. You can also find several other affordable lock-back options from Buck Knives and Gerber. Good luck!

Q. I have been reading Boys’ Life longer than most Scouts, but I saw the question about “I have a 20 degree bag…but still cold.” His problem might be that he is going to bed in the clothes that he has been wearing all day. Your body sweats, even in the coldest weather, and that moisture will keep you cold even in the warmest sleeping bag. My advice is to change into fresh dry clothes, at a minimum, change into dry socks and long johns. Try it. Dry means warm.

A. Listen here, Dan, you’re supposed to ask me a question. And I’m supposed to answer it! Are you trying to take over my job?! Just kidding. Seriously Dan, your advice to change into fresh, dry clothes before crawling into your sleeping bag for the night is spot on. Plus, it’ll help keep your sleeping bag from smelling like a sweaty locker room!

P.S. I don’t want a hybrid.

A. I think you should go with a mountain bike. Road bikes don’t do so well on rough roads, but the suspension on most mountain bikes will help swallow up the uncomfortable bumps and holes. Since it sounds like you will mostly be riding on the road, instead of knobby tires consider getting semi-slick mountain tires, which have a smoother (and faster) tread for road riding.

Q. Hello Gear Guy, My friends wear Under Armour with shorts and a T-shirt and say they are warm when it is 30 degrees out. Meanwhile I’m freezing with long johns and my uniform and a jacket on! I was considering buying Under Armour. They give me a choice of silk or polyester, which one keeps me warmer? Do you have suggestions of any other products besides Under Armour?

A. Yo Alex! I’d bet your “warm-blooded” friends might be talking up their warmth a little bit — makes them feel cooler, I guess. That said, a good base layer is indeed the key to keeping warm outdoors. If I were you, I would stick with polyester base layers rather than silk. Sure, silk will keep you warm, but it’s more expensive and usually harder to care for (some require hand-washing!). Most importantly, it’s not quite as quick to dry as polyester and slower to wick sweat away from your body. That makes polyester a better choice for a guy like you who is likely really active when you’re outdoors. While Under Armour does make nice base layers, there are plenty of other very good options out there. One of the most affordable yet high-performance base layers I know of is L.L. Bean’s Polartec Power Dry Base Layer, Midweight Crew top and pants ($35 each; llbean.com). Brands like Columbia, Mountain Hardwear, REI and Cabela’s also carry similar products.

Q. I can’t seem to find a good pair of convertible synthetic pants for hiking/backpacking. Could you point me to where I should look? I’m looking for something that doesn’t cost more than $45 to $50.

A. We have just the pants you are looking for, Paul. The official BSA Centennial Switchbacks have it all: moisture-wicking and quick-drying nylon construction, UPF sun protection, lots of cargo pockets and other extras. The legs zip off to make perfect hiking shorts, and the price is right in your wheelhouse: $49.99. Find them at your local Scout shop or at scoutstuff.org.

Q. I’m shopping for a tent and am confused by the way the tents are labeled for weight. Most seem to list two weights, a trail weight and a packed weight. What’s the difference?

A. I’ll be happy to weigh in on this one. There is no industry standard on how tent manufacturers need to weigh and label their tents. So, consider the weight on a label as a rough estimate. Packed Weight (I’ve also seen it listed as Packaged Weight) refers to everything that comes with the tent when you buy it. That includes stuff sacks, stakes, maybe even a repair kit and a manual. Obviously you won’t want to bring all of that on the trail with you, so then you look at the Trail Weight (sometimes also listed as Minimum Weight). The thing is, the Trail Weight usually includes just the tent, rainfly and poles. No stakes. No ground cloth. So the Trail Weight isn’t all that accurate, either. Others list a Fastpack Weight, which includes just the rainfly and poles. All of the above is just a long-winded way to say the actual weight will be somewhere between Packed Weight and Trail Weight.

Q. I need (OK, I want) a helmet camera. I like the GoPros but I don’t know which model to get for filming while skiing. What would you recommend?

A. I love the GoPro cameras, too! Which model you should buy depends on what you “need” from a small waterproof point-of-view video camera like this. If price is a concern, look online for a used or new entry-level GoPro SD Hero 170 (retailed for $100), which GoPro has stopped making. This one came with a helmet/head strap plus a couple of stick-on mounts, shoots standard-definition video and 5-megapixel photos, and is powered by two AAA batteries. It’s everything you need to get started shooting helmet-cam movies.

If your heart is set on capturing high-definition video, spend $180 and go with the GoPro HD Hero 960. HD Hero comes with a rechargeable battery, which will save you money in the long run. If money is no object, go with the top-of-the-line GoPro HD Helmet Hero ($300), which comes with more mounting options and is compatible with cool new accessories including the LCD BacPac, a little mountable video screen that lets you see what you’re filming in real time.

Q. How are the camping backpacks at Philmont made so lightweight?

A. The internal-frame backpacks used at Philmont Scout Ranch in Cimarron, N.M., are special “program packs” built by Osprey Packs, one of the top backpack manufacturers in the world. Philmont uses the La Plata (weight approximately 4 lbs. 5 oz.) and the Escalante (5 lbs. 4 oz.). You can’t buy those in any stores, but they are based on Osprey’s popular and lightweight Aether backpacks. The most similar model available to consumers is the Osprey Aether 85 ($289; ospreypacks.com), which weighs in at 5 lbs. 1 oz. and uses lightweight yet durable nylon fabric and superlight aluminum rods to stabilize and transfer the pack load.

The external frame backpacks used at Philmont are the classic (yet recently redesigned) Kelty Tioga (5lbs. 14 oz.) with a lightweight aluminum frame. But it’s no longer manufactured, so you can’t buy it either. If you want this pack, you’ll have to find a used one for sale somewhere.

A. Since I don’t know everything about your situation, Ethan, I’m just gonna have to give you some basic advice.

If your sleeping bag is a basic rectangle shape, try a mummy-shaped bag instead. Those fit closer to your body, so there’s less room inside the bag for your body to heat up. The fleece liner is a good idea, as that can add some valuable extra warmth to your bag. You might also try sleeping in your clothes, and wear a stocking cap — lots of your body’s heat escapes through your head. Maybe try a down sleeping bag. No synthetic insulation can match its weight to warmth ratio (but it’ll be more expensive).

You mentioned your 20-degree bag not being warm enough. Those ratings are just a general guide to what temperature you could sleep comfortably in. If you’re a cold sleeper, and it sounds as if you are, go for a sleeping bag that’s rated for much colder temps, like a 0-degree bag.

Finally, make sure you are sleeping on a sleeping pad, because the cold ground can quickly suck valuable heat from your body. Much like sleeping bags, pads are rated for colder temperatures, and using one would definitely help you sleep warmer.

Q. Yo Gear Guy! This weekend when I was setting up my two-man tent to air-dry, one of the fiberglass poles broke. Any places that I could go to get a replacement?

Dear Mr. Half. First off, good for you for airing out your tent (cue applause). Taking care of your gear is key for making it last a long time. Now, there are a couple tent pole-specific tips I’d like to offer: When you’re putting up or taking down collapsible tent poles, always work from the center out. So for instance, don’t try to collapse the pole from one end first. That’ll put too much stress on the elastic inside the pole and can cause it to break. Next, always try to keep your poles out of the dirt or sand. That stuff can get inside the pole joints and cause problems too.

Obviously your immediate issue is getting a new pole. Your best choice is to contact the original manufacturer of your tent. You should be able to find a customer-service email or toll-free number on the company’s website. If not, try going to the shop where you bought the tent. They might have info on how to reach the manufacturer. When you do get in touch, be sure to mention which exact tent model you have and which pole is broken. If that’s unsuccessful, you might also try TentPole Technologies, LLC. (www.polesforyou.com). Prices for replacement poles seem to range from $5 to $35 for fiberglass poles, depending of course on the diameter and length of the pole you need. Aluminum poles are roughly twice as expensive. While I can’t vouch for the company directly, it does seem like they’d be able to help.

Cheap vs. Steep: “Cheap” gear listed here is great stuff. It has been studied and tested and ranks among the best offerings in its price range. When you’re ready to move up to higher-end gear, the “Steep” options provide room to grow. You can often find great deals online.

HELMETS

News flash: Wearing a helmet on the slopes is cool. It means you’re smart and that you’re charging hard enough to need a brain bucket. Wear only an ASTM- or CE-approved helmet. Some helmets come with added ventilation, removable earpads, even built-in headphones. But most important, pick one that fits comfortably snug.

• Cheap: Salomon Drift Kid ($60; salomon.com)
• Steep: Ride Duster ($100; ridesnowboards.com)

GOGGLES

Goggles are meant to keep blowing snow and wind out of your eyes so you can concentrate on shredding the hill. The fit should be snug with no big gaps between your face and goggle where air can enter. Also, make sure the top of the goggle frame meets the helmet as closely as possible. Different lens tints work better in different snow conditions. Pick a darker lens for very bright days; yellow or rose tints work well in lower light. Some goggles even come with interchangeable lenses.

• Cheap: Oakley E Frame ($39; oakley.com)
• Steep: Smith Stance ($90; smithoptics.com)

BASE LAYER

If you’re wearing a regular cotton T-shirt as a base layer, you must be stuck in the 1980s! What you need next to your skin is a quick-drying fabric like a synthetic blend or wool, which wicks moisture away from your skin while keeping you warm. A zippered mock T gives you the maximum ability to regulate your body temp. Should fit snug, but not too snug.

• Cheap: Polarmax PMX Team Shirt and Tech Pant ($25 each; polarmax.com)
• Steep: Icebreaker Longsleeve Crewe and Legging ($60 each; icebreaker.com)

MID LAYER

If you’ve learned anything from Gear Guy about dressing for the outdoors, it’s this: Wear layers! If you get hot, take a layer off. Get cold, put one on. Fleece or down pullovers and jackets make great mid layers. Should fit relatively close to the body but with enough room to move.

• Cheap: Eddie Bauer First Ascent Cloudlayer fleece pullover ($20; eddiebauer.com)
• Steep: The North Face Vesty Vest ($89; thenorthface.com)

JACKET

This outer layer protects you from the wind, snow, sleet, etc. Look for a jacket that’s waterproof and breathable. Some come with built-in insulation or removable layers depending on the weather. A few zippered pockets are nice, but you don’t need too many gadgets. Should be roomy for mobility and to accommodate extra layers, but not so loose that it’ll get caught on the ski lift.

• Cheap: Columbia Rugged Peak Jacket ($115; columbia.com)
• Steep: Patagonia 3-in-1 Snowshot Jacket ($339; patagonia.com)

PANTS

Eventually, you’re gonna fall. And when you do, you’ll need a good pair of waterproof/breathable pants to keep you dry and warm. Wear them loose, but not baggy, for mobility.

• Cheap: Columbia Bugaboo Tech Pant ($85; columbia.com)
• Steep: Sierra Designs Rad Pants ($199; sierradesigns.com)

GLOVES

Look for gloves that are warm and waterproof/breathable. They need to fit tight enough so you have plenty of dexterity with your fingers and no unnecessary bulk. Leather palms can help with better feel, too.

• Cheap: Kombi Gore Method Jr. ($50; kombisports.com)
• Steep: Outdoor Research HighCamp ($79; outdoorresearch.com)

SOCKS

Wear a pair of mid-weight synthetic or merino wool socks — never cotton tube socks because they won’t keep your feet warm once they’re sweaty and wet. Make sure your socks are close-fitting because if they’re too loose, they’ll bunch up and cause blisters.

• Cheap: Lorpen Kid’s Merino Ski ($15 for 2 pair; lorpen.com)
• Steep: Icebreaker Kids Snow Mid Over the Calf ($15; icebreaker.com)

SKIS

You’ll spend somewhere between $350 to $900 for a pair of skis. In general, look for skis that come up to about your nose or forehead. For a variety of all-mountain type skiing, pick a ski with a waist of about 70 to 80 millimeters and a soft or medium flex, which is best for beginner and intermediate skiers.

• Cheap: Salomon Shogun Jr. ($275; salomon.com)
• Steep: K2 Bad Seed ($550; k2skis.com)

SKI BOOTS

Well-fitting boots are key to maintaining control of your skis. Look for four-buckle boots with customizable features for fine-tuning a better fit. The flex of your boots is also important. Beginners should look for a less stiff boot. Ski boots should fit one-half size to a full size smaller than street shoes.

• Cheap: Nordica GP TJ ($185; nordicausa.com)
• Steep: Tecnica Bodacious 65 Jr. ($375; tecnicausa.com)

SKI BINDINGS

Bindings are the connection between you and your skis. Step in and they click as they lock in. When you wipe out, the binding releases and tiny brakes pop down to stop your skis from skiing away from you! How easily they release can be adjusted; most beginners should choose a low-release setting. Most new skis are paired with bindings and will cost an extra $150 to $300.

SNOWBOARD

Expect to spend between $250 and $500 for a new snowboard. Your board should come up to right around your chin. You also want to make sure the board is wide enough so that your feet don’t hang over the edge when you turn. The next thing to consider is board stiffness. Softer flex is best for beginners because it’s easier to ride. More stiffness helps advanced riders on steeper slopes.

• Cheap: Rome Label Rocker ($260; romesnowboards.com)
• Steep: Lib Tech Lib Ribber ($349; lib-tech.com)

SNOWBOARD BOOTS

Make sure your boots are comfortable from the first time you try them on. They should fit snug in the heel and forefoot with some wiggle room for your toes. For starters try a half-size smaller than your street shoes. In general, entry-level boots have traditional shoe lacing; higher-end boots use a tightening system that lets you easily dial in the tightness with a knob.

• Cheap: Ride Orion ($129; ridesnowboards.com)
• Steep: DC Judge ($270; store.dcshoes.com)

SNOWBOARD BINDINGS

Your board is attached to your feet with bindings. There are two types: straps and step-in. Strap bindings are the most popular and are the best choice. They can be cinched down super-tight using the ratchet straps, while step-ins lock you in just by stepping down on the binding.

• Cheap: Rome Shift ($120; romesnowboards.com)
• Steep: GNU Park ($239; gnu.com)

WINTER SPORTS TIPS

• Stay Hydrated. You might not be sweating and you might not feel thirsty, but your body probably is. Cold weather and active winter sports can dehydrate you quickly, so be sure to drink enough water while skiing or riding. Some guys even wear hydration packs to keep liquids close by.

• Take a Lesson. No question, the fastest way to get past the beginner blues is to take a ski or snowboard lesson or two. Most ski resorts offer lessons.

• Shop in Summer. One of the best ways to get a good deal on ski or snowboard gear is to shop during the off-season — most snow shops have good sales starting in March. You can sometimes find quality used gear in your local newspaper classified ads or online.

• Rent First. If you’re unsure about what type of skis or board would be best for you, rent your gear. Most shops have rentals and demo equipment, and some might even offer full season leasing of a whole setup for around $150 to $200.

Q. Are waterproof bags necessary or will garbage bags work just as well?

A. This really depends on what you’re doing, Keith. If you’re throwing away a bunch of stinky trash, then a garbage bag is totally the call. But I’m assuming you’re really asking if garbage bags will also work for backpacking or canoeing or some such. The answer is yes and no.

For trail-based activities, like backpacking somewhere kinda rainy, garbage bags are actually super handy. They can be used as a waterproof pack liner (to keep your sleeping bag and clothing dry) or as a rain cover for your backpack. They are lightweight, cheap, super packable and can even provide emergency shelter in a pinch. Just be sure to get the heavy-duty, super thick plastic bags like the ones you find at Home Depot and hardware stores. Double bagging (lining one bag inside the other) is even more effective as trash bags can puncture relatively easily. For holding smaller loads like just a down sleeping bag or specific clothing, some experienced hikers tend to use smaller, narrower trash compactor bags which are thick but not as large as conventional trash bags.

Now if you’re wondering if a garbage bag is a good choice for carrying your gear on water-based outings like canoeing or rafting, the answer is no. Plastic bags can and will eventually get puncture holes, which let water seep inside. And if you capsize or if your trash bag full of clothing and gear sits in the bottom of a wet canoe for hours, there’s an excellent chance your stuff will be soaked. For this type of outing a waterproof drysack with a roll-top closure is really the best choice because it can take a full dunking and still keep the stuff inside dry. These type of dry bags range in cost from about $10 to $75 depending on size and thickness of the bag. Some good quality brand names to shop for are Sea to Summit (seatosummit.com) and SealLine (cascadedesigns.com/sealline)

Q. Yo Gear Guy, I just got back from summer camp and I had a blast, except for one thing: My tent got a hole in it. I was wondering if you know any good inexpensive ways to fix the holes?

A. Better a hole in your tent than a hole in your head, huh Zach? No worries, I have an easy solution that my buddy (and Eagle Scout) Chris Dickey shared with me. Here’s what you’ll need:

• one tube of SeamGrip ($5-$7; www.mcnett.com)
• one fabric patch
• duct tape

Apply a piece of duct tape to the backside of the fabric tear. On the outer facing side apply a thin layer of SeamGrip (careful, this is sticky stuff). Next, place the fabric patch over the top of the SeamGrip. Before it dries, give it a gentle press and wipe away any residue. Give the patch about 20 minutes to dry and you’ll have a bomber tough waterproof fix.

Q. Dear Gear Guy, I’m going on a camp-out soon and need to buy a cot. What kind of inexpensive cot do you think is best? Thanks!

A. Yo Billy, thanks for the question. I’ve been getting quite a few cot-related questions lately, so you’re not alone. There’s a wide range of cots on the market, some costing up to $150. But for your needs, which sounds like a car camping-style outing, the Wenzel Camp Folding Cot ($45; wenzelstore.com) should work just fine. It’s super basic, plenty comfortable, and simple to set up. There are definitely lighter-weight cots (this one weighs 14 lbs.) and more compact choices (the Wenzel just folds in half while others collapse neatly); still this cot should do the trick—and I even found it online for $35!

Q. Hey Gear Guy, I am getting ready to go on a camping trip and just would like to know what is the best kind of survival kit that fits nicely in my backpack and doesn’t take up too much room.

A. Thanks for the question, Stephen. The easiest thing is to buy a pre-made survival kit like the SOL (Survive Outdoors Longer) Scout ($25; adventuremedicalkits.com). This compact 5.4-ounce kit includes a compass, signal mirror, rescue whistle, survival blanket, fishing kit, fire starter and duct tape all packed inside a mini waterproof drybag that won’t take up much room in your backpack.

A. Here’s what you can do: Next time you’re camping, bring along an old towel from home. Lay it down at the entrance to your tent, like a welcome mat. Whenever you go to get inside your tent, just sit on the towel and take off your boots. Leave the shoes outside of your tent (hopefully dry and safe under a vestibule, brush off your feet and then climb inside. The towel and taking off your boots before you go inside will help stop some of the junk you might otherwise track in the tent.

This special video edition of Stuff We Like shows you a real trail lifesaver. Find out more information at quikclot.com.

Q. Help, Gear Guy! What do you do if your waterproof hiking boots have become un-water resistant? My boots shoe bottoms are coming off too!

A. Your feet get wet! Just kidding, Pete. Fixing your boots should actually be pretty easy. You just need to apply a waterproofing spray or rub-on wax. Try Nikwax Waterproofing Wax for Leather ($6; nikwax.com) or ReviveX Nubuck, Suede & Fabric Spray Water Repellent ($8; mcnett.com).

1) Clean your boots. Grab a soft-bristled brush. Rinse your boots with cool water and brush the dirt and grime off the seams and stitching. Clean the insides too.

2) Dry the boots. Pick a warm, dry place where they can air dry. You can stuff newspaper inside the boots to help them dry out more quickly.

3) Waterproofing. Finally, spray on or rub in a waterproofing product.

Now, onto the soles of your boots which are peeling off. That’s an easy fix too. They make glues just for this called Shoe Goo ($6; eclecticproducts.com) and McNett Freesole Urethane Formula Shoe Repair ($8; mcnett.com).

1) Clean the area. Use a brush to clean out any dirt, rocks, whatever that might be caught between your sole and the boot. Rubbing alcohol will help it get really clean.

2) Glue the sole. Follow the directions on the glue you buy, but basically you just apply it to the sole evenly and then reapply the sole.

3) Keep it in place using a C-clamp, or can of beans or a full waterbottle sitting inside your boot to weight down on the sole.

Q. Dear Gear Guy, When I’m out camping I need to keep my eyes safe. I want to buy some sunglasses. But where can I find a pair for under $50?

A. Hey Dylan, I totally hear where you’re coming from—it’s important to protect your eyes, but there are tons of very expensive sunglasses out there. And where are the affordable ones? Lucky for you there are actually plenty of inexpensive options under the $50 mark. For example, check out these cool polarized shades with lightweight nylon frames and shatter-proof lenses: Pepper’s Empire Maker ($35; peppersusa.com). Pepper’s has many other styles in the $35 range. Also check out other affordable brands like Ryders (ryderseyewear.com), Optic Nerve (nerveusa.com) and Sun Cloud (suncloudoptics.com), which is a lower-end brand manufactured by high-end Smith Optics. REI also carries a sunglass brand called Chili’s which hover in the $20 to $25 range (rei.com).

Q. Hey Gear Guy, I run a lot, and I like to run while at summer camp. Problem is, when I wear my normal running shoes, I get blisters; and when I wear a hiking shoe, it chafes my ankles. Any suggestions for a running shoe that is good for a rough camp trail?

A. Hey Josh. Good question. First off, hiking shoes don’t make the best running shoes because they are usually too heavy and stiff for running. What you need is a trail running shoe. Trail runners are much like normal running shoes except they have more support, traction and durable soles designed to help cushion your feet from the irregular terrain and pounding you get while running on rough trails. A good all-around trail runner that has plenty of stability, extra traction, and won’t break the bank is the Brooks Trailblade ($85; brooksrunning.com). As for getting blisters while wearing your normal running shoes, spend the extra money and buy a quality pair of socks like the Drymax 1/4 Trail Running ($11.50; drymaxsports.com) with good cushioning and material that wicks the sweat away to keep your feet dry and hopefully, blister-free.

Q. Hey Gear Guy, What kinds of things do you need to look for when shopping for a hammock tent?

A. Ahh, hammock tents — if you’ve been following the Gear Guy you know I LOVE camping in a hammock tent. They keep you up off the ground, they’re usually simple to pitch, and pound for pound they are the most comfortable way to sleep on the trail. O.K., when shopping for a new one here are some things to consider:

• How easy is it to set up/pitch?
• Does it have enough ventilation?
• Total weight? Is it light enough for backpacking?
• How small does it pack down?
• Does it come with insect-proof mesh?
• What about a rainfly for bad weather?
• Is it easy to get in and out of the hammock?

There are quite a few hammock tent options on the market, but here are two of my favorites:

–Hennessy Expedition Asym ($140; hennessyhammock.com) weighs just 2 lbs. 12 oz. with built-in mosquito netting and a detachable rainfly.

–Eagles Nest Outfitters (ENO) OneLink Hammock Shelter System ($200; www.eaglesnestoutfittersinc.com) really easy to pitch and comes with a slip-on bug net and rainfly; weighs in at 4 pounds 4 ounces.

CHEEP VS. STEEP
Gear Guy knows you’re on a budget. But because everyone’s budget is different, he has provided multiple options. “Cheap” gear listed here is great stuff. It has been studied and tested and ranks among the best offerings in its price range. When you’re ready to move up to higher-end gear, the “Steep” options provide room to grow. You can often find great deals at online sites such as eBay, where there usually are lots of cheap, barely used climbing shoes.

HELMET
The good ol’ brain bucket is one of the most important pieces of climbing gear because it protects your head from hitting something as well as from falling rocks and gear. Wear only a UIAA- or CEN-approved climbing helmet; bicycle and football helmets aren’t acceptable because they’re not designed to protect you from falling objects. If you’re warm-natured or climbing somewhere hot, look for a light-colored helmet with plenty of ventilation. But most important, pick one that fits comfortably snug.
Cheap: Petzl Elios ($66; www.petzl.com)
Steep: Black Diamond Tracer ($90; www.blackdiamondequipment.com)

SHOES
Athletic shoes and light hikers are fine for beginning climbers. But if you want more performance, you’ll need climbing-specific shoes. There are several types, from tight-fitting sock-like climbing slippers, to flexible and super grippy friction shoes, to edging shoes, which provide performance with more comfort. Climbing shoes should be tight but not painfully so. You might size down a size or two from your street shoe when picking a climbing shoe. They are also usually available for rent at climbing gyms and are sometimes provided for use at Scout camps.
Cheap: La Sportiva Tarantula ($80; www.sportiva.com)
Steep: Scarpa Vapor Lace ($140; www.scarpa.com)

HARNESS
A harness comfortably distributes your weight and allows you to attach yourself to the belay rope. Always follow the manufacturer’s recommendations on how to attach to the harness. Tie the belay rope directly to your harness rather than using a carabiner. The waist belt and loops distribute your weight in many directions for comfort and safety in the event of a fall. Though it’s possible to tie a seat harness from a single piece of webbing, a commercially made harness is more comfy. Pick a harness that is tight but not so much that it restricts your movement. When in doubt, choose the smaller size.
Cheap: Black Diamond Alpine Bod ($38; www.blackdiamondequipment.com)
Steep: Mammut Zephir ($100; www.mammut.ch)

CARABINERS
A locking carabiner is used to attach the belay device to your harness. Carabiners are essential for rappelling and belaying other climbers. Good carabiners are made of aluminum alloy or high-grade steel, with spring-loaded gates that snap closed. They can be oval, D-shaped or pear-shaped and come in either locking or nonlocking options. Usually, the lighter and stronger a carabiner is, the more expensive it will be. Beware of look-alike carabiners — things like climbing key rings and accessory holders that are not designed for climbing, as they won’t be strong enough to support your body weight.
Cheap: Black Diamond Oval Carabiner ($5.50; www.blackdiamondequipment.com)
Steep: Omega Pacific ISO Locking Standard D Screwgate Carabiner
($9.50; www.omegapac.com)

BELAY DEVICE
Belaying is a safety technique that provides friction to a climbing rope while your partner is climbing so he cannot fall very far if he slips. There are several types of belay devices, including a slotted plate and a tube device. The tube device is most popular because it provides friction with minimal heat. There are also specialized belay devices, like the GriGri, which automatically locks up the rope when loaded with tension (a lot like a seat belt in a car). These are commonly used at climbing gyms.
Cheap: Black Diamond ATC ($17; www.blackdiamondequipment.com)
Steep: Petzl GriGri 2 ($95; boyslife.org/links/petzl)*

*IMPORTANT NOTE: Early models of GriGri 2 have been recalled because of a potential problem in which the handle may become stuck open. Serial numbers between 10326 and 11136 are affected.

CHALK
Your grip is super important while climbing. Chalk helps dry your hands (by removing sweat and moisture) and improves your hold on the rock. Most climbers use loose chalk in a bag or chalk balls (you can make your own by filling a cut-off stocking with chalk). Though it’s perfect for gyms and manmade climbing towers, chalk stays visible on rocks, making it look unnatural and conflicting with Leave No Trace principles. Always follow local regulations regarding chalk use when climbing in the wild.
• Metolius Super Chalk ($3.75 for 4.5 oz.; www.metoliusclimbing.com)
• Mad Rock Koala Chalkbag ($15; www.madrockclimbing.com)

TRAINING AIDE
You don’t have to be out in nature on a real rock or in a climbing gym to train for rock climbing. Many climbers use grip trainers to build the muscles of the hand and forearm. Others hang pull-up style training boards in their home to practice various climbing holds and moves.
Cheap: Power Putty Hand Strengthener ($8; www.powerputty.com)
Steep: DynaFlex Pro Gyro Ball Hand Exerciser ($25; www.mydfx.com)
Steeper: Metolius Project Training Board ($55; www.metoliusclimbing.com)

TIPS & TRICKS

CLIMBING BASICS
Here’s how rock climbing works: While the climber works his way up the rock face (which can vary from a slight incline to vertical to an overhang) another guy belays him. The climber wears a harness that is attached to a rope held by the belayer, who uses a simple device to add friction to the rope when needed. As the climber climbs, the belayer maintains tension on the rope and takes in or feeds out rope as needed. If the climber slips and falls, the belayer can easily and safely stop his fall.

THREE POINTS ON THE ROCK
The most efficient way to climb is using the three-point stance — keeping two hands and one foot on the rock at all times while moving the free foot to a new location, or having both feet and one hand on holds as the free hand moves. Lean out from the wall slightly so your body weight rests on your feet. Your hands should be used primarily for balance so your stronger leg muscles can do the bulk of the climbing work.

BRAINS OVER BRAWN
Use your mind, not just your muscles, when climbing. Always look ahead up the rock thinking about where you should place your hands and feet next. Think several moves ahead of where you are and mentally create a route to follow. Also look sideways for other hand and foot placements.

LEARNING THE ROPES
One of the most important pieces of climbing gear is the rope. While beginners usually don’t own their own ropes, it’s good to know the different types. Dynamic rope stretches when put under load (like your body weight), so it can absorb some of the shock of a falling climber. Static ropes stretch less — they are best for things like hauling gear up the rock — and are not suitable for situations in which a climber may fall. (Keep in mind: Unless you’re climbing on your own, you’ll never have to provide your own ropes. In fact, Scout camps won’t even let you bring your own carabiners, ropes or belay devices because they have to ensure the history of all gear used.)

BE 13
Most Boy Scout councils and summer camps will
not allow boys to participate in climbing until
they are at least 13. Even then, never go climbing
without a qualified BSA climbing instructor.

DRESS TO CLIMB
When climbing, always wear a comfortable shirt and pants to avoid scrapes and abrasions on the rock. Loose clothing is good, but stay away from baggy clothes because they may get caught on the rock
or interfere with your movement.

Q. What is your best idea of a survival shelter? How would you build it?

A. Best survival shelter? I call that a “cabin.” Just kidding, Jhon. In all seriousness, it’s great that you’re being prepared enough to think through a potential emergency like getting stuck out in the wilderness. While some survivalists recommend building a shelter out of sticks and leaves, you’re probably better off using your precious energy getting found (or un-lost) than building some kind of lean-to.

Always carry with you this portable shelter: a heavy-duty, 4 mm-thick orange plastic bag (approx. 38” x 65”). Just cut a hole for your face, crawl inside and hunker down for the night. It might not look pretty, but it’s lightweight, packable, cheap and it’ll stop the wind and rain and could save your life. Hypothermia (loss of your body’s core temperature) is one of the main causes of death in survival situations.

Q. Hey Gear Guy, my patrol is going to Philmont for two weeks this summer, and I need some help. I hear that the weather is unpredictable there and I was wondering if you could help me decide on what kind of gear we should bring?

A. You’re right, Casey. Summer in the Southern Rockies can be very unpredictable indeed. And the big changes in elevation at Philmont Scout Ranch near Cimarron, N.M., add to the changeable weather. Basecamp is at an elevation of 6,700 feet while Baldy Mountain rises to 12,441 feet. That’s a lot of feet! According to Mark Anderson (he’s director of programs and Philmont’s main man) the temperature is around three degrees cooler for every 1,000 feet of elevation gain. Do the math — and you’ll see it’ll be a lot chillier atop Baldy.

So here’s how Anderson recommends packing for Philmont:

“We recommend layers,” he says. “If a Scout brings a long-sleeve shirt (wool or synthetic), a sweater or jacket (wool or polar fleece), a good rain jacket and a lightweight stocking cap, he will be comfortable at most weather conditions.”

Q. On camp-outs I see some boys with cots and others with bedrolls. Which should I use?

A. Personally, I prefer a bedroll. Cots are definitely comfy and keep you off the ground, which in theory should make you warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer. But here are some of the downsides of a cot: They can be bulky, take more time to set up, can malfunction or break (leaving you with no bed), and are way more expensive than a basic bedroll. And if you plan on doing some backpacking, it makes sense for you to start getting used to sleeping on the ground in your tent.

Q. What is better to buy: A bivvy or just a lightweight tent?

A. That depends on what you plan on doing, Gabe. For general backpacking and camping uses, a lightweight tent is much more versatile and comfortable than a bivvy. A bivvy is basically a waterproof one-man tent that’s shaped like a sleeping bag. It’s very lightweight and compact and perfect if you’re doing ultralight backpacking in inclement weather. That said, bivvies are tight, usually not very breathable, and even claustrophobic for some. Sure, a lightweight tent will weigh a bit more and probably be more expensive, but in the long run you’ll get much more use out of a tent.

Q. How do you get sand out of your knife’s insides?

A. Hey Adam. Sand is definitely a big problem when it comes to folding pocketknives. And it doesn’t really take much sand to foul up the folding and locking mechanism.

Try to blow the grit out of the knife using an air compressor (some dads have these in their workshops). If you don’t have access to an air compressor, you can buy a can of compressed air that’s typically used for cleaning computers and other electronics. You can find it at most office supply stores and electronics shops for about $7-$10. Just aim the air into all the nooks and crannies of your knife and try to blast the sand out.

Once you’ve got most of it out, lubricate your knife (and especially the folding mechanism) with a basic 3-in-1 oil. Do that and your knife should be sand-free and ready for business.

Q. My sleeping bag zippers always break off. This is my second sleeping bag that broke and I don’t have any extra money to keep buying a new one over and over again. PLEASE HELP!!

A. Wow, Mr. Zaragoza, that does sound like a problem. But there’s no reason to shout—I can hear you fine.

OK, just because you’re having problems with the zipper on your sleeping bag doesn’t mean you need to throw it out and buy a new one. Same goes for bum zippers on a tent or a rain jacket. Simply try to fix it with a repair kit like the Gear Aid Zipper Repair Kit ($10; mcnett.com). It comes with several replacement zippers and repair tools, plus a short manual on how to fix your zipper. That should do the trick for you.

When you’re on an extended camping/hiking trip, it’s also a good idea for you or someone else in your troop to carry a zipper repair kit like this because a broken tent zipper can turn into a pretty big problem on the trail.

Q. Yo, Gear Guy, Where can you find some Boy Scout socks? I need a couple pairs for campouts and for board of reviews.

A. Yo, Sockless. That’s simple: Buy them online at ScoutStuff.org. They have more than a dozen of official Boy Scout socks to choose from, starting at $2 and up to about $16. Done.

Q. Gear Guy, I’m going on a Boy Scout backpacking trip in a couple of weeks with my son to Utah. We will be walking through water and sand for three days at the bottom of the canyon. Any recommendation for an inexpensive pair of water shoes for my son (age 16)? Thanks for your help.

A. Here’s what you need to consider, Dad: Your feet will be very sandy and very wet during this hike. Water shoes are fine for some applications, but when you have sand and grit and dirt constantly rubbing between wet shoes and your feet you’re going to get blisters and irritation. So, the first thing you should invest in is a pair of neoprene socks. These things are made from thin wetsuit material and will keep your feet warm and protect your skin from rubbing raw. A good option is the NRS Sandal Sock ($20; nrsweb.com). Your son could wear those with an old pair of running shoes and be good to go. If you’re set on getting him a new pair of water shoes, look at brands like Teva, Keen, Salomon and Merrell, and expect to pay a minimum of around $75 retail (you might be able to find cheaper prices online). So I guess I can’t really help you with inexpensive water shoes. Just get your son the neoprene socks and use an old pair of running shoes. Have fun on your trip!

Q. Dear Gear Guy, My son and I saw your knife reviews…his question is (him typing now)…where can I buy the Leatherman Fuse?

A. Hey Mike and Dad, If you want to find a store that sells Leatherman products, click here. You can also find the Fuse online. I saw it for about $33 at amazon.com and walmart.com. Happy shopping!

Q. Dear Gear Guy, I have a tent with a waterproof fly, but I still get wet. Why is that?

A. Hey Soggy Sam. Thanks for the question. There are a couple reasons you’re getting wet. First off, if you’re not staking out your tent and fly correctly, water will definitely find its way into your tent. You need to make sure the rainfly’s lines are taut and that it keeps the fly off the fabric of your tent. It’s also possible your rainfly isn’t waterproof. Over time the tent’s factory-applied waterproofing can wear off—and then you get wet!

Here’s how to re-waterproof your rainfly and tent. Start with a tube of Monet’s Seam Grip (about $7; mcnett.com). Put your rainfly on top of your tent inside out and carefully reseal all the seams (those are the parts where there’s stitching and the fabric is sewn together). Also apply Seam Grip along the perimeter of the floor inside your tent. Next, flip your rainfly over, pitch it properly andspray it with a silicone waterproofer like McNett’s Thunder Shield (also about $7). That should keep you dry for a good long time.

Q. Hey Gear Guy, I was just wondering what kinds of special gear my troop should get when going on a canoe trip? We are going down the Delaware River and as ASPL I was assigned to learn what sorts of stuff we needed. We are only going for a couple days and I would be really grateful if you could help. Thanks so much.

A. Here’s a quick checklist for you, Zach:

• PFD (a.k.a. life jacket)
• Canoe paddle
• Spare paddle
• Dry bag
• Lightweight rain gear
• Sunglasses with strap
• Sunscreen, non-oily cream sunscreen
• Water bottle with clip
• Swim trunks
• Wide-brimmed hat
• Towel
• Insect repellant, DEET based
• Water sandals
• Plus all your regular camping gear (tent, sleeping bag, first-aid kit, etc.)

Q. Dear Gear Guy, Is it a good idea to wear steel-toed boots for hiking?

A. So, Jason, steel-toed boots for hiking? Nah, not the best idea. Steel-toed boots are required when working on a job site (to help protect your toes from getting crushed by an errant hammer or some such) but they are going to be overkill for the trail, heavier weight, and not as comfortable as traditional hiking boots.

Q. Hey Gear Guy! What kind of jacket do you recommend for Philmont Scout Ranch? I need the jacket to be preferably something light and under $100.

A. Hey there, Curious. Good question. I called our buddy Mark Anderson, Philmont’s director of programs (that means he’s the boss!), and he recommended packing a fleece jacket that’s designed to block the wind. By nature, fleece is lightweight, but your ‘under $100’ requirement is a bit tougher to meet for a wind-blocking fleece. That said, I did a quick search and found these two jackets, which would be great for chilly weather at Philmont. Stay warm!

• REI Windbrake Thermal Fleece Jacket ($89.50; rei.com)
• The North Face Windwall 1 Fleece Jacket ($70-$100; thenorthface.com)

Q. Sometimes on hikes or camping trips I pack a little bit too much or a little bit too little clothing. How can I restrict myself from packing an amount of clothing that is wrong?

A. Some people recommend packing what you think you need, then cutting the load in half. While that might work for some, it might also leave you out on the trail missing important gear that you really need. A better bet is to use one of our handy Gear Guy packing lists. We compiled lists for several different types of outings so you should be covered pretty much no matter where you’re headed. You can check them out here.

Q. I need a good knife for exploring a forest. I want a knife that either unfolds or stays open. Any suggestions?

A. Exploring a forest, huh? Sounds fun. I think your best bet is a folding knife like the new Gerber Mini Swagger ($27; gerbergear.com). It has a 2.8-inch long fine edge stainless steel blade that locks open so it won’t fold back on your fingers while you’re using it. The Mini Swagger is pretty compact and weighs just 2.9 ounces so you can stash it in your pants pocket or pack, but it’s still plenty big to handle any kind of cutting jobs you’ll encounter out there on the trail. Plus, with its jet black color and machined handle, this knife looks super cool, like something a Navy SEAL would carry!

Q. My son wants a fire-starter. Which is the best and easiest?

A. Hey, Mama. The real question is: Are you sure you really want your son to have a fire-starter? Just kidding. If he’s a Scout, I’m sure he’ll be responsible with it. A good option is the Light My Fire steel Scout ($12; lightmyfireusa.com). It’s basically a flint and steel set that was first designed for the Swedish military but is now used by outdoorsmen. Just scrape the steel across the flint and it throws a strong spark. It even works when wet. If your son gathers kindling and dry sticks and aims the sparks onto a cotton ball with a dab of Vaseline, he should be able to easily start a good fire. To make things even easier, he might also try Light My Fire Maya Dust ($5; lightmyfireusa.com). Just sprinkle some of the pulverized pieces of fatwood pine at the base of your soon-to-be fire and it’ll light quickly and easily and produce an extra hot flame.

Q. I don’t have a pair of hiking boots, but I do have a pair of Georgia Giant work boots that come eight inches over the ankle. Would they work? Or should I get a pair of hikers instead?

A. First off, remember you don’t have to have any kind of special gear to enjoy the outdoors. Of course, you can hike in those work boots and be just fine. That said, with those eight-inch high ankles and steel toes they are what I’d call “overkill” for hiking. You’ll definitely be more comfortable on the trail with a pair designed specifically for hiking. If you’ll be hiking (and not backpacking) you can get away with a low-cut hiking shoe that is almost as lightweight and comfortable as a running shoe but with beefier hiking-specific traction. If you’ll be carrying a backpacking pack, then you’ll want a heavier-duty boot that provides plenty of over the ankle support too.

For more help and hiking shoe and boot buying tips, check out this Guy Gear buyer’s guide here.

Q. My troop is sending boys to Sea Base and I was wondering about good inexpensive waterproof watch. Any ideas about where I could get one?

A. There are lots of inexpensive watch options. Check out Amazon.com and search for “Casio sports watches.” I found a few that meet your needs including the Casio Men’s W800H-1AV Classic Digital Sports Watch (retail $20; casio.com). It’s water resistant to 100 meters and has a 10-year battery life

Q. This is not so much a gear question but a technique question: My buddy and I plan to backpack a 24-mile point-to-point trail one weekend, camping halfway. Problem, we only have one car. How do we get back to our car at the end of the trail?

A. That one’s easy: Buy another car! I’d recommend the Ferrari Testarossa, but you might want something with a little bit more trunk space. If you can’t afford another car, there are two other options. One, if the trail you’re taking is a relatively busy one like, say, some sections of the Appalachian Trail or other well-traveled routes there are often local people that you can pay to “shuttle” your car for you. Basically you’d pick them up in town, and they’d ride with you out to the trailhead. Then, you pay them a fee and they drive the car to your destination for you. Often you can find shuttle services like that through local outfitter’s shops or general stores. Finally, if all else fails, there’s Option Two: Just make your trip and out-and-back.

Cabela’s Backcountry Hikers
($60; cabelas.com)
These waterproof boots have leather uppers with nylon side panels and plenty of padding in the ankle and tongue for extra support. At $60, they’re also the most affordable waterproof boots in our roundup, and we even saw them on sale online for $40! Approx. 3 lbs. per pair.

Hi-Tec Mokala Mid
($55; hi-tec.com)
With a combo of suede leather and breathable mesh and a steel shank in the sole, the Mokalas provide good support, especially for a mid-ankle cut boot. While not waterproof, this boot has a moisture-wicking lining to pull sweat away and keep your feet dry. Approx. 2 lbs. 8 oz. per pair.

L.L. Bean Waterproof Trail Model Hikers
($89; llbean.com)
Though these boots are considered mid-cut hikers, they are cut quite high and offer enough ankle support for a multiday trip carrying a moderate load. They are made with a combo of nylon and suede leather and feature a waterproof, breathable membrane. If wet feet aren’t a concern, check out the nonwaterproof version of this same boot for just $59. Approx. 2 lbs. 12 oz. per pair.

Merrell Moab Ventilator
($95; merrell.com)
By far the lightest-weight true boots in our roundup, these mid-top Ventilators feel like a pair of comfy running shoes. The breathable mesh uppers have leather strapping that provides extra support without making the boots too heavy. They have nice Vibram-brand soles and are a good choice for summer hiking. Approx. 1 lb. 15 oz. per pair.

Columbia Coremic Ridge 2
($65; columbia.com)
The Coremic Ridge 2’s uppers are breathable mesh with suede leather overlays to give your foot more support. Though they aren’t waterproof, these boots are treated with Columbia’s Omni-Shield for water and stain resistance. We found them cheaper online and in stores, for around $50. Approx. 2 lbs. 10.5 oz. per pair.

Vasque Ranger GTX
($110; vasque.com)
An entry-level boot from well-respected boot maker Vasque, the mesh and suede leather Ranger has features, like waterproof, breathable Gore-Tex and a durable rubber rand around the toe, you usually find only on higher-priced boots. We saw the Ranger GTX discounted on Amazon.com for just 89 bucks. Approx. 2 lbs. 14 oz. per pair.

Timberland White Ledge Hiker
($85; shop.timberland.com)
These waterproof boots have an almost entirely full-grain leather upper with fewer seams for greater durability. A mid-cut, well-padded nylon ankle provides support while a moisture-wicking interior does its best to keep your feet from getting wet with sweat on hot days. Approx.
2 lbs. 5 oz. per pair.

Helly Hansen Trackfinder
($75; hellyhansen.com)
Low-cut hikers like these are a great option for those times when you’re not carrying a backpack and don’t need extra ankle support. They are comfortable like a sneaker but still provide enough shock absorption for rocky, rugged trails. Approx. 1 lb. 11.5 oz. per pair.

SHOP SMART … with these five smart boot-buying tips.

Try before you buy. Put them on and hike around the store for at least 10 minutes to check proper fit.

Bring socks. Always bring a pair of your own hiking socks to the store for trying on boots.

Lace ’em up. Make sure the boots are laced up correctly and snug for best fit.

Shop late. Your feet are largest in the afternoon, so shop then.

Fit right. Yes, your feet are still growing, but buy boots that fit right now; never buy them large so you’ll grow into them. Loose-fitting boots can be dangerous and uncomfortable on the trail.

Q. I’ve been in Scouts for about a year and I was wondering why my backpack is so heavy. I only pack about two pairs of jeans, extra socks and two shirts. I also pack a mess kit and a flashlight plus batteries. My sleeping pad is not heavy; neither is my sleeping bag. Why might my pack be so heavy and do you know how to fix it?

A. The first thing you said that raises a red flag is that you always pack two pairs of jeans. Now, I love jeans as much as the next guy, but they probably aren’t the best choice for outings for a couple of reasons: 1) they do weigh a lot, about 1 to 1.5 pounds per pair; 2) when they get wet, they weigh tons more and give you zero insulation from the cold.

So, swap those jeans for a single pair of nylon zip-off pants. They are more versatile (can become shorts when you’re warm), quick-drying and weigh only about 10 or 12 ounces—half as much as a pair of jeans. If it’s cold, throw in a pair of long underwear to layer underneath. As for two shirts, that’s not excessive, but just make sure that the two shirts you bring can work together. So, for example, bring one long sleeve and one short sleeve. They should be made of a quick-dry polyester blend or even wool, both of which will keep you warm even when wet. When it gets cold, wear them layered together.

Finally, pack only what you really need. Click here to check out some of our easy-to- follow gear packing lists.

Q. I am looking for a type of tent that can zip onto other tents (of the same style) for my friends to use on campouts so we can each have our own living quarters.

A. Good question, Drayton. I have seen a couple modular tent systems over the years. The coolest one I’ve found is The North Face Docking Station ($429; thenorthface.com), which is basically a 97-square-foot canopy-style tent that could serve as your “living room.” It has four roll-up doors to which you can attach as many as three other tents, each sold separately, including the 2-person Dock ($119) or the 4-person Dock ($159). If you have a LOT of friends, you could also add the Mesh Room ($149), which fits inside the Docking Station itself, providing screened protection from bugs and sleeps up to six. Naturally, this kind of tent system is best for basecamp or car camping rather than backpacking because of its size and weight.

Q. Gear Guy, I am trying to find a tent that is lightweight, and very well ventilated to prevent condensation, but without being too expensive. Do you have any suggestions?

A. Dear Wesley. Thanks for the good question. There are lots of things that can create condensation inside a tent, including a wet environment, morning dew, dropping temperatures, even moisture from your own body. If you have your tent pitched correctly, the condensation should collect on your rainfly and not so much on the inner tent itself. The trick is staking out the tent and rainfly correctly so there’s space and airflow between both. Of course, as you mentioned, picking a tent with tons of ventilation will help reduce condensation too.

Here are two good tent options. The body of both of the tents are made almost entirely of mesh so you’ll have lots of good airflow. You said you wanted something lightweight and inexpensive: hate to break it to you Wes, but lightweight and expensive go hand in hand.

• Big Agnes Seedhouse 1 ($190; bigagnes.com) 3 lbs. 10 oz.
• Coleman Hooligan 2 ($60; coleman.com) 8.9 lbs.

Keep in mind, no matter which tent you choose, if there’s dew on the ground you’ll still likely get some condensation on your rainfly. But with your tent pitched correctly, you’ll stay dry and as soon as the sun starts shining the rainfly will dry quickly too.

Q. My rain pants are leaking because there is a hole on the inside of the leg on the seam. I want to be thrifty because I am a Boy Scout. I would like your advice as to how to repair them. If I am not able to fix them, what should I pay for a new pair?

A. What’s up, Leaky Pants? Oh sorry, that didn’t come out right. Anyway, thanks for the question. Here’s your answer: Get out the old needle and thread and do the best sewing job you can on that seam. Maybe get an adult to help if you need it. Now, here’s the part that should cure your leaking. Get a hold of some McNett Seam Grip ($7; www.mcnett.com). Turn your pants inside out and apply a thin layer of Seam Grip to the repair spot. Spread the stuff a quarter inch around the repair and let it dry flat overnight. That should make the seam waterproof again.

If they’re beyond repair, expect to spend a minimum of $30-$50 for a new pair of rain pants. Products in this entry-level category will likely be coated in polyurethane for waterproofing but won’t be all that breathable or especially durable. You’ll have to spend twice as much or more for a pair that will be more durable and breathe well enough for highly aerobic activities where you’ll be sweating a lot. Hope this helps. Stay dry!

• AA: burntime: 6 hrs. 45 min. / beam distance: 154 feet
• AAA: burntime: 2 hrs. 30 min. / beam distance: 158 feet
• CR123: burntime: 4 hrs. 30 min. / beam distance: 200 feet

The Omnivore retails for nearly $40 but I found it online for just $27 — not bad for a flashlight that can eat most any kind of battery you throw at it!

Here is a sample packing list from a backpacker who participated in an ultralight trek last summer based out of the Montana Council’s Montana High Adventure Base.

• Down Balaclava, 2.05 oz
• Sunglasses, 0.82 oz
• Sun Hat, 1.97 oz
• Mosquito Head Net, 0.33 oz
• Base Layer Clothing, 5 oz
• Down Jacket, 7.67 oz
• Rain Jacket, 7.69 oz
• Wool Shirt, 5.06 oz
• Down Gloves, 1.45 oz
• Hiking Pants, 10 oz
• Rain Pants, 3.57 oz
• Down Pants, 10.64 oz
• Boxer Briefs, 4.21 oz
• Trail Shoes, 7.8 oz
• Wool Socks, 2.51 oz
• Gaiters,  1.89 oz
• Down Quilt, 17.8 oz
• Sleeping Pad, 8.7 oz
• Bivy Sack, 5.10 oz
• Pillow, 0.93 oz
• Backpack, 1 pound, 13 oz
• Pack Liner, 1.32 oz
• Stuff Sacks, 0.67 oz
• LED Flashlight, .28 oz
• Sunscreen, 0.32 oz
• Lip Protection, 0.34 oz
• Compass, 0.95 oz
• Whistle, 0.29 oz
• Notebook, 2.08 oz
• Bandana, 1.09 oz
• Mug, 1.75 oz
• Spoon, 0.27 oz
• Water Bottle, 1.3 oz
• Trekking Poles, 8.39 oz
• Bug Spray, 0.30 oz
• Pocketknife, 1.49 oz

For more information about ultralight backpacking, see the “Faster, Farther, Stronger and Lighter” article in the April 2011 issue of Boys’ Life magazine.

Q. Dear Gear Guy, I’ve been searching everywhere for a reversible rain jacket, with one side to be waterproof, the other side just to keep me warm. Think you can help?

A. Hey Luis, Thanks for the question. I can definitely tell you why you haven’t been able to find such a jacket: because it doesn’t exist (at least not as far as I know). Here’s the deal, you’re better off layering with a fleece type pullover to keep you warm, and an inexpensive water-resistant shell jacket for when it’s raining. Cold and raining? Wear them both together. Companies like Columbia (www.columbia.com) sell versatile 2-in-1 jackets that are basically a waterproof shell with a zip out fleece liner — it’s all about the layering!

Click here to find out more about rain jackets in BL‘s Shell Jacket Buying Guide

Q. Hey Gear Guy, I’ve been bass fishing for a couple years now but I really wanna get into fly fishing too. My friends say it’s really expensive—so can you recommend a simple, cheap fly rod and reel to get me started?

A. Thanks for the question, Frankie. Fly fishing is a great sport, though as you mentioned, it can indeed be expensive. One quick and easy way to get geared up is to buy an all-in-one starter outfit that comes with rod, reel and line. I looked around for an affordable, yet full featured and quality combo and here’s what I found: The Redington Minnow Kid’s Outfit ($100; www.redington.com) comes with a eight foot long medium-action two-piece graphite fly rod with a Crosswater reel, fly line and pre-spooled leader. This setup is geared to anglers up to 12 years old, but don’t let this thing fool you: a couple of my fishiest fly fishing buddies spent an afternoon playing with the Minnow and were fired up on it. The same company also makes the similar Crosswater Youth Outfit ($139) which has a 9-foot rod and is marketed to teenagers. Both are ready-to-fish straight out of the box and though they retail for $100 plus, look around online and you’ll likely find the Minnow for as low as $70. Happy fishing!

Q. Dear Gear Guy, I would like a good quality but inexpensive Buck knife. I saw the article in September 2008 about the fixed-blade knives, but my troop does not allow sheath or fixed-blade knives. What can you recommend?

A. Hey there, Buckless. Happy to help. A nice basic folding knife from Buck would be the Bantam BLW ($24; buckknives.com). It weighs just 2.4 ounces and has a 3 1/8-inch long stainless steel blade that can be locked open so it won’t fold back on your hand while you’re using it. If you want a shorter blade or just a less expensive knife check out the Bantam BBW ($19) which comes with a 2 ¾-inch blade. One question for you now: Once you have a new Buck, we can’t call you Buckless anymore, right?

Q. Dear Gear Guy, I need a good camping pillow that is not too expensive and can be used easily on backpacking trips.

A. Hey man, thanks for the question. Getting quality sleep on the trail is definitely super important, and often the key is having a comfy pillow. There are a couple options to consider. Though some use inflatable pillows, I find those uncomfortable and much prefer either a regular travel pillow or simply a stuffsack filled with my extra clothes. Here are two products to consider:

• REI Basecamp Pillow ($10.50; rei.com) This one is a basic, comfy pillow that’s relatively compressible and lightweight. Affordable too!
• Therm-a-Rest Trekker Pillow Case ($10.95; cascadedesigns.com/Therm-A-Rest) When I’m backpacking, I usually use a simple nylon stuffsack for my pillow case. It works but this soft, brushed polyester pillow case is way more comfortable.

The Cateye Loop is a set of quarter-sized LED lights, one white light for the front of your bike and a red tail light. They are powered by a pair of CR2032 batteries (comes with the light) and can give you 50 hours of bright LED light in flashing mode or 30 hours in the constant mode. Loop lights have a stretchy elastic band and clasp that lets you attach the lights anywhere on your bike: handlebars, seat post, anywhere.

The Cateye Orbit is of similar size and power but is designed to slide easily onto the spokes of your wheel, like a reflector, providing a cool, eye-catching light that spins as your wheel turns.

Q. I have been looking for a pot, plate and bowl all for under $50. But I can’t find any?

A. First off, Nick, is your town really named Boring? That’s awesome. And I’ll guess it’s not too boring. OK, I think I’ve found exactly what you need—all for about $25. Here’s what I’d recommend:

• REI Campware Table Set ($11.50; rei.com) You get a polypropylene bowl, plate, and cup with an acetyl spoon, knife, and fork. The whole rig is BPA-free, weighs just 12 ounces and comes with a handy mesh bag that will help air-dry your stuff after washing it.
• MSR Stowaway Pot ($16; cascadedesigns.com/msr) If all you need is a lightweight pot with a lid and handle, this one is perfect. It’s stainless steel, weighs 9.5 ounces and has a half-liter capacity.

Q. What equipment do you need to cook an oyster?  I caught one on my fishing pole. Hope you write back!

A. Hey Tyler, congratulations on landing an oyster with your fishing pole! That’s actually kind of a trick to do. Usually most people harvest oysters by hand, walking at low tide to shallow spots where they can simply pick them up. Once you’ve gathered enough oysters for a meal, or in your case: a single oyster, it’s time to eat.

There are many ways to cook oysters, but below are the easiest methods. Be sure to first clean the oyster’s shell with fresh water and a hard brush (no soap though!). Whichever way you cook oysters, you’ll know they’re done when they start to open their shells. Then, let them cool and use a knife to carefully pry the shell open all the way and scoop out the oyster. You can dip it in butter sauce, cocktail sauce or just pop it in your mouth plain. Enjoy!

• Steaming: Pour a couple inches of water in the bottom of a pot (or steamer with a basket). Toss in the oyster(s) and cover. Cook on the stovetop for 10-20 minutes or until the shells open slightly.

• Baking: Preheat oven to 500 degrees. Put oyster shells on a cookie sheet and cook for 15 to 30 minutes or until the shells crack open.

• Grilling: Just toss them straight onto you barbecue grill on medium high heat, until the shells open.

• Raw: Some people eat them raw, but oysters sometimes carry bacteria that can make you sick. Cooking it will kill that bad stuff, so that’s a good idea.

Q. Hey Gear Guy, I have a problem: I’m getting a little too “old” for my BMX bike. I’ve had it for three years, but now I need a new one. My saddle is too low, and when I stand on the pedals for a while, my back begins to hurt. There’s one big problem: I’m kind of low on the green stuff (if you know what I mean). Any suggestions?

A. I’m guessing you’re growing both older and taller. And eventually that does spell: bigger bike. While most BMX bikes are meant to be ridden with the seat lower than other style bikes, you can use a wrench to raise your seat. If it’s not up all the way (there’s usually a line on the seatpost showing maximum height) raise it up and that might get you a few more months out of your old bike while you look for a new one. You also mention you’re low on cash. Well, if you’re on a budget your best bet is to look for a new used bike. You might be able to find a good deal on a brand new bike at Wal-Mart or something like that, but they often lack durability and quality. You’re way better off looking for a gently used brand name bike in the online classifieds for your local newspaper or on craigslist in your area. Avoid bikes with excessive rust and always take it for a test ride before buying. If you’re patient, there are always good deals to be had on used bikes. Good luck hunting.

Q. Dear Gear Guy. I love skateboarding but every winter it’s snowy and cold and icy where I live so skating outdoors isn’t an option. How do I make sure that I don’t lose all my skillz?

A. Not to worry; there are some things you can still do to keep your skating skills up. First off, if there’s an indoor skatepark where you live, go! If you have a garage, get your mom or dad to pull the cars out and set up a mini-skatepark inside. You can also always practice your ollies, kickflips and such in your living room, even on the carpet. Balance boards, like the Goof Board ($139; www.goofboard.com) help simulate boardsports and are a fun way to improve your balance. Finally, if Old Man Winter gives you snow, go snowboarding! Don’t have a snowboard or mountains? Get an old skateboard deck (minus the trucks and wheels) and just slide around.

With a few ramps in his backyard, he has a great spot to practice right at home, which he does almost every day. Except that Keith doesn’t call it practicing.

“It’s just having a good time with my friends, being creative, doing whatever we want skating.”

Here are some skateboarding tips from Keith:

TIP 1: LEARN HOW TO FALL

It’s a fact, Keith says. “Be prepared for falls when you’re starting.” That’s why it’s important to learn the right way to take a tumble.

If the fall is too big for you to just land on your feet: Use your feet for a second as a stepping point. Tuck up into a ball (something like a skier’s tuck position), and then tumble and roll onto your shoulder.

And, Keith adds, always wear safety gear!

TIP 2: LEARN HOW TO DROP IN ON A RAMP

Start with the tail of your board on the edge of a ramp. Next, push down with the front foot and stay centered over the skateboard.

TIP 3: LEARN HOW TO OLLIE

You’ll be airborne for this trick, which can be done on either a flat surface or on a ramp.

Kick down on the tail of the skateboard and then level out the board by sliding your front foot forward. Think of it as sort of a jumping motion with the board “glued” to your feet.

This will take lots of practice. But once you master the ollie, you’ll have the foundation for many other tricks.

Find out more about skateboarding basics in the February 2011 issue of Boys’ Life magazine.

Q. Hi Gear Guy, I’m a swimmer and our coach has us time our laps with wristwatches, but every waterproof watch I try, the buttons don’t work underwater. What can I do?

A. Yep, not only do the buttons on some waterproof watches not work underwater, on some watches the buttons aren’t even supposed be pressed while submerged or it could damage the watch. Silly, huh? Well, luckily I found the answer to your problems. Check out the Timex Ironman Sleek 150-Lap ($89; timexironman.com). This watch is water-resistant to 100 meters, and features a cool TapScreen Technology. Basically all you have to do to start and stop the stopwatch is tap the face of the screen. No button pushing at all! Cool huh. Though it’s listed at $90, I saw it at Amazon.com for $51. Check it out and keep up the swimming!

Q. Yo Gear Guy, I’m about to go on a winter camp-out and I need some good warm gloves but my budget is just $15. What could I do?

A. A winter camp-out in Nebraska sounds like a brisk event indeed. Brrrrrrrrr! I can see why you’ll need some warm gloves. Okay, $15 is a tight budget, but there are plenty of options. My suggestion is to see if there’s a local military surplus store near your town. If there is, take a look and see what you can find there for cheap. I recommend buy a pair of fleece or wool liner gloves plus an outer shell glove made of nylon or some other water-resistant material. If you don’t have a local surplus store, try the online military surplus e-tailers like Colemans.com, IMSPlus.com, and others. Also keep an eye on the outdoor sports outlet sites like: Campmor.com, REIoutlet.com, and SteepandCheap.com. Good luck, and stay warm.

Q. What skateboards are best for kickflips, grinds and ollies? Which board goes the fastest?

A. First off, the best skateboard for street skating, and doing tricks like kickflips, ollies, etc. is a standard eight-inch wide tongue depressor-shaped skate deck. The brand isn’t really important, just look for one that’s durable with graphics you like. You’ll also want size 149mm trucks, and wheels sized between 52mm to 58mm. If you’re a smaller, lighter guy, pick a wheel in the lower end of that size range. If you’ll mostly be skating on the street and rough surfaces (which I’m guessing you will be), pick a wheel with a hardness of around 97A and above. These harder wheels will give your tricks more pop.

Now, if you want to go really, really fast, you’ll need a hill—and a totally different type of skateboard. Your best bet is to get a longer, wider, hybrid-style deck, something in the 38- to 42-inch long range. You’ll want wheels sized between 74mm to 81mm with a medium soft feel of around 78A to 80A. Then, the final important ingredient is the bearings. These are the things inside your wheels that make them spin really fast. Look for bearings with a rating of between Abec 5 to 7. The higher the rating, the less rolling resistance the bearing has, so theoretically, the faster you’ll go. They’re expensive (about $15 for four bearings) and keep in mind, if you ride your skate through sand or some such, the bearings will get clogged and your very fast skateboard will now be very slow.

Q. Dear Gear Guy, Where can you find unbarbed fishing hooks? I keep on catching pumpkin seed fish, and they have sharp teeth. I think unbarbed hooks would help.

A. Unbarbed hooks (they’re actually called barbless) will definitely make it simpler to get the fish off the hook. They’re especially popular with fly fishermen who do lots of catch-and-release fishing. And as long as you keep good tension on the line as you’re reeling in the fish, you probably won’t lose any more fish than if you were fishing with barbed hooks. That said, barbed hooks help the live bait or worms stay put so you will likely lose a little more bait when fishing with barbless hooks.

You can actually make most any fishing hook barbless. Just ask a parent to help. You’ll need a pair of pliers or a metal file. Have them either bend down the barbs with the pliers until they’re smooth or use the metal file to remove the barbs.

The following lists will help you Be Prepared for times of emergency.

Family Emergency Kit

If you must evacuate your home with little notice …

• Three-day supply of water
• Nonperishable foods (including pet food) and a nonelectric can opener
• Eating utensils
• Special foods for any dietary restrictions, including baby foods
• Family first-aid kit
• Battery- or cranked-powered radio
• Flashlight
• Extra batteries (rotate these out regularly so they don’t go stale in your closet)
• Matches in waterproof container
• Blanket or sleeping bag for each family member
• Extra clothing
• Face masks for air filtering
• Soap, wipes, antibacterial gel
• Toilet paper
• Copies of important family documents in waterproof containers
• Signal whistle
• Local maps
• Cash

Major Disaster Preparedness Items

If you can safely stay in your home during an emergency …

• Fire extinguisher
• Tool kit (with ax, shovel, broom, screwdriver, pliers, hammer, coil of rope, coil of bailing wire, duct tape, razor blades, adjustable wrench for turning off gas or water)
• Chart showing location of shutoff valves in your home, including the main electrical switch
• Portable fire escape ladder for homes or buildings of more than one floor
• Portable butane or charcoal stove (to be used outdoors away from the garage)
• Gloves and cloths for cleaning up dangerous spills
• Covered containers for storing waste
• Garden hose kept near an outside faucet

Personal Emergency Service Pack

If you and your troop are called out to serve during an emergency …

• Poncho or raincoat with hood
• Change or underwear and socks
• Small bag with toiletries
• Sleeping bag and waterproof ground cloth
• Map of area where you’re going
• 50 feet of No. 5 sash cord
• Hand ax, folding saw or pocketknife
• Water treatment equipment
• Cook kit and canteen
• Flashlight
• Battery-powered radio
• Extra batteries
• Hard hart
• Personal first-aid kit
• Matches in waterproof container
• Emergency ration
• Pencil and small notebook
• Handkerchief
• Compass and map of the area (and GPS if you have one, with extra batteries)
• Watch
• Facial tissues
• Work gloves
• Face masks for air filtering

Watch the Scouts competing in the following videos, and find out more about the biathlon in the January 2011 issue of Boys’ Life magazine.

The shooting portion of the biathlon competition is critical. Competitors must remove their skis, rush to the shooting line, catch their breath and shoot as straight as possible. The Scouts loaded their guns in advance of the actual competition.

The Scout biathlon was a team event. Four competitors started with some cross-country skiing. After making a lap around the track, the guys rushed to the shooting range, then sprinted back to the starting line so the next team member could do his part.

In between biathlon training sessions, the Scouts from Troop 4 rode the slopes of Soldier Hollow Cross-Country Ski Resort on tubes, a nice break from the competition of the biathlon.

Q. I want to buy a pocketknife for my 8-year-old nephew. He has just started a pocketknife collection and has about 8 knives. Can you recommend a good knife for a boy that age?

A. You must be a cool aunt to be buying your nephew a knife! Will you be my auntie too? OK, seriously, good knives for an 8-year-old? Here are two that I think he’d be sure to dig:

BSA Official Cub Scouts Pocket Knife ($19.99; www.scoutstuff.org) You just can’t go wrong with the official Cub Scouts pocketknife! It’s got a stainless steel 2¼”-long blade with a flat head screwdriver, cap lifter and punch blade folded inside.

Gerber Mini Paraframe ($16.26; www.gerbergear.com) This folding knife has an open stainless steel handle, which makes it both lightweight (just 1.4 ounces) and cool-looking! The 2.22”-long locking blade is high carbon stainless steel with a fine edge and it comes with a handy pocket clip too.

Q. I’m looking for an advanced first-aid kit that has everything I will ever need at a low cost with quality stuff for wilderness, desert, cave, boat, home, camper, car, etc.

A. Good for you for taking the steps to Be Prepared and safe outdoors with a good first-aid kit. That’s one of the most important things you can ever carry. There are two things you said in your question that are very important. First off, you want a first-aid kit to handle all situations from wilderness trips to boating. In order to have a kit so comprehensive that it could truly cover everything, it’d be so huge and heavy that you wouldn’t want to carry that monster anywhere. Secondly, you said you wanted something that was low cost with quality items inside. With all that in mind, here’s what you should do: Build your own first-aid kit. It’s easy to do and affordable. Go here and take a look at this list of basic components every kit should include. Next, head to your local drugstore and buy each of those items individually—it’s much cheaper than buying a pre-made first-aid kit, and you’ll also benefit from knowing exactly what’s in your kit. Once you’ve assembled that basic kit, you can customize it with other items that are specific to whatever activity you’re planning to do and how many people will be coming along on outings with you. Good luck and stay safe out there.

Watch our step-by-step video to learn how, and check out the article in the December 2010 issue of Boys’ Life magazine for more information.

Remember: Even in a survival situation, try to avoid harming the environment when building your fire. Look for a spot from which a fire could not spread and where the surrounding area would not be damaged.

Q. I have a lantern that has a removable glass covering, and it has soot all over it. How can I get it off?

A. Dear Dirty, Great question. Lucky for me, it’s a really easy one. And lucky for you, cleaning a lantern is easy too. I checked with the folks at Coleman (www.coleman.com) and they confirmed that all you need to do is carefully remove the globe (that’s the glass covering) and wash it with soapy water. If your lantern happens to be a very old collectible Coleman lantern, then be extra careful not to scrub too hard and remove the logo as it’ll decrease its value. New lantern or old though, a clean globe will improve the brightness of your lantern come camp time.

Way! The new Rusty Wired Series Sweatshirt [$75; rusty.com] is equipped with waterproof (and machine-washable) HB3 headphones hidden inside the drawstrings of the hoodie. In the front pocket you’ll find an input for your mp3 player or cell phone so your favorite tunes are always at the ready.

Q. I have some old camping shoes, but they’re winter hunting shoes. I need a pair of warmer-weather shoes that can get wet and still be dry on the inside; and so my feet won’t stink. Can you help me?

A. I’m happy to help. I think you’re looking for what’s called a waterproof/breathable shoe. Basically it’s made with a fabric that has a waterproof membrane that’ll keep water out while still allowing your body heat and sweat to escape. Your feet will stay dry and cool (though not as cool as they would in a straight pair of mesh shoes).

Most hiking and trail running shoe brands have waterproof/breathable models made with membranes from Gore-Tex or eVent or their own private label. So there are lots to choose from. The bad news: To get a truly waterproof/breathable shoe you’re going to have to spend about $100. Bad News Part II: If you step in a stream that’s more than ankle-deep your feet are gonna get wet. That said, here are two affordable waterproof breathable shoes to consider:

• Columbia Switchback ($90) A trail-running inspired shoe, the Switchback gives you a rugged sole for hiking in a waterproof/breathable version to keep your feet dry. (columbia.com)
• The North Face Assailant ($100) This hiking shoe has a waterproof/breathable Gore-Tex upper with a lightweight but durable Vibram sole. (thenorthface.com)

Finally, regarding stinky feet. No shoe or boot will be automatically stink-free. You are personally responsible for that. However, here are a few things to help minimize the stink:

• Dry your shoes thoroughly whenever they get wet. Stuff newspaper inside the shoes to dry them more quickly.
• Always wear socks. And make sure they’re clean socks. Bare feet in shoes feel nice, but it’s a one-way ticket to smelly shoes.
• Wash your feet regularly to keep them clean and healthy.
• If your shoes already stink, consider washing them and try a shoe deodorant powder, a spray-in deodorizer like Febreze, or cedar shoe blocks. You can find all of this stuff at the local drugstore.

Q. I’ve had a lot of people tell me I should get a CamelBak for outings. Can you help me pick the right one? How much water should it hold and how much space should it have?

A. Your buddies are right, CamelBaks, small packs with slip-in hydration bladders and drinking tubes, are handy to have on outings. Keep in mind there are several different brands that also work well, including Hydrapak, REI, Nalgene and others, but CamelBak definitely makes great hydration packs. There are two things to consider: (1) you can buy a daypack already installed with a hydration pack; or (2) you can buy just the hydration reservoir and use it with your regular daypack as well as a larger camping backpack, as many packs are designed to be hydration-compatible.

I asked my buddy Seth at CamelBak regarding your specific questions and here’s what he had to say: “Bring at least 70 ounces of water for two hours or more of activity. I would suggest 100 ounces for 3+ hours. The nice thing is that you can always fill a 100-ounce reservoir to whatever volume you want, say just 50 or 70 ounces, if you don’t need the full 100 ounces. Cargo space all depends on what you need to carry, but something with 700 to 1,800 cubic inches of space is perfect for day hikes, where you would want to pack a lunch, sunscreen, eyewear, bug spray and of course a rain shell or shed layer.”

Click here to take a look at my Gear Guy hydration buyers guide.

Q. We went camping on the beach last weekend. It was fun, but the wind blew all night long and made our tents flap like crazy. It was so loud that it was really hard to sleep. Any advice?

A. Same thing used to happen to me. But there’s an easy solution. The first mistake most people make when beach camping is they fail to properly stake out their tent. Don’t stake your tent out and you’ll have less ventilation and with the slightest wind will have your tent flapping like mad. Sure, the sand makes it difficult to pitch a tent, but you still should always set the guy lines off your tent (and/or tent fly) solidly into the sand. Regular tent pegs won’t really work in the sand. Instead you can buy sand anchors at some outfitter stores—or better (and cheaper!) you can just use stuff you find around the beach like pieces of driftwood, rocks, etc. to anchor your tent. For instance, find a smallish branch, tie you guy line to it, and then bury the branch below the sand so the line is taut. That should hold it well. Repeat for each of the lines of your tent.

If the wind is really blowing, which happens a lot at the beach, I usually push up a wall of sand all around the base of my tent. Sometimes I even cover the edges of the fly with a couple inches of sand. That’ll hold your tent fly tight, minimize flapping, and helps stop sand from blowing inside your tent all night long.

Q. I’ve heard some people talking about barefoot shoes lately. What are those? And what are they used for?

A. Don’t feel bad about being confused. ‘Barefoot’ and ‘shoe’ are not two words that really seem to go together. But it is a really big trend in outdoor sports footwear. Here’s the deal: Barefoot shoes are basically very thin-soled shoes minus all of the cushioning, support, etc. that you find in regular shoes. They’re meant to mimic the feel of going barefoot with the benefit of a sole to protect your feet from heat, sharp objects and such. The idea is that these types of shoes might be healthier for your feet and legs because they cause you to use different muscles and may give you better feel and balance. There are a wide-variety of barefoot-style shoes out on the market now from those that look like gloves for your feet to those that are more like pared down running shoes. People are currently using them for jogging, hiking, kayaking, canyoneering, and just hanging around.

Are they a good choice for your troop’s next backpacking trip? Probably not. If you’re carrying any kind of weight on your back it’s smart to have hiking shoes or boots with plenty of support and thicker soles for the hazards you’ll likely run across on the trail. Are they fun to wear? Sure. But use common sense on which activities are best suited for going “barefoot.”

Here are a few of the latest barefoot-style shoes/brands:

• Vibram Five Fingers (vibramfivefingers.com)
• TerraPlana Vivobarefoot (terraplana.com)
• New Balance 101 (newbalance.com)
• Nike Free (nike.com)

(kodak.com | Buy it from Amazon.com)

Q. Dear Gear Guy. My Scout leader says that when hiking in the winter you should always wear wool because it keeps you warm even when wet. But I am allergic to wool. Any ideas?

A. Your Scout leader is right about wool being a great insulator that keeps you warm even if it gets wet. But lucky for you, there are plenty of synthetic fabrics that work just as well — and they are often more affordable. Every clothing brand has its own name for it, but most are made with some type of polyester fabric. They are all pretty similar in that they wick moisture away from your skin and keep you warm when wet.

For winter hiking, you should always dress in layers. Start with a tight-fitting, synthetic base layer (a.k.a. long underwear). They come in a wide a variety of fabric thicknesses. The lighter weight is best for outdoor activities where you sweat a lot; heavier is better for colder conditions. Layer over that with a thicker fleece sweater or jacket and if it’s windy or raining/snowing, your top layer should be a water-resistant shell jacket.

Here are a couple good synthetic base layer options:

• LL Bean Polartec Power Dry Crewneck midweight ($35; www.llbean.com)
• Cabela’s ThermaStat Medium-Weight Crew ($20; www.cabelas.com)
• Patagonia Capilene 2 Lightweight Crew ($45; www.patagonia.com)

Q. When I was packing for summer camp, I had a hard time choosing the pocketknife to take. Almost all my knifes have wooden handles, and if they get wet, they rot and the blades rust. And the knife I took did rust. Can you tell me of a good rust-proof knife?

A. I used to think there was no such thing as a rust-proof knife until I found the Spyderco Salt 1 ($95, spyderco.com) about five or six years ago. This thing is amazing. I live by the ocean and spend lots of time in and around the water — and my knife always comes along. I’ve also taken it on countless paddling trips on whitewater rivers. And it is still completely rust-free! The knife is made with a Japanese steel called H-1, which includes carbon instead of nitrogen so it won’t react with chlorine and won’t rust. The handle is made of a durable and lightweight fiberglass-reinforced nylon so it wont rot and is easy to hold onto when wet. Also

Q. How do I clean out my Camelbak hydration system?

A. Good for you for actually cleaning your hydration pack. If you don’t clean those things, nasties can grow inside the water bladder and drinking tube and make you sick.

For full, detailed instructions on how best to clean your Camelbak or other water pack, we found some great information at the company’s Web site, camelbak.com.

Here’s the short version: Fill up your Camelbak with warm soapy water. If it’s particularly nasty, add some lemon or a couple of tablespoons of baking soda to the water (my tip, not CamelBak’s). You’ll need some sort of brush (Camebak sells one for $10) to get down the tube and inside the reservoir to scrub it up. Rinse, and then hang to dry.

Q. On every camp-out, my boots always hurt my feet — sometimes from wet socks but mainly for reasons unknown. Is there anything I can do?

A. Andrew, there could be many different things going on. I’ll just run through some things that might help:

Keep your feet clean and dry. Wear a thin synthetic liner sock under a wool sock. This will wick the sweat away from your feet and keep them drier and more comfy. When you’re back at camp, take off your boots, maybe wash your feet in a stream, dry them well and put on a pair of clean, dry socks.

Make sure your boots fit. Don’t try to squeeze into too-small boots or get a pair to grow into. Get the right size now and be sure to break them in a little, wearing them around as much as you can before your outings.

Add a little extra cushion. You can buy boot insoles at outdoor specialty stores that can improve the fit, support and comfort of most any boots.

Waterproof your boots. If your boots are not waterproof, treat them with a product like Nikwax Waterproofing Wax for Leather ($8; nikwax.com) or ReviveX Leather Water Repellent ($8; mcnett.com).

Q. I have heard about the Hennessy Hammock and it sounds like it is a very good hammock, but is it as good as it sounds?

A. Like you, I too had heard about the Hennessy Hammock but I’d never used one myself. So I called them up and got a loaner hammock so I could test it out. For our test, they let us borrow the Deluxe Explorer Asym ($199; hennessyhammock.com). It’s actually the exact same model as their very popular Expedition Asym ($140) hammock, except it’s supersized (I’m over 6 feet tall). So let’s focus on the Expedition Asym. It weighs in at just 2 lbs. 12 oz. and fits inside a stuff sack about the size of a bag of potato chips—even smaller if you pack it inside a compression sack. These are indeed very cool shelters. They are lightweight all-in-one hammock tents with built-in mosquito netting and a detachable rainfly to protect you from the outdoor elements. The Expedition also has plenty of mesh ventilation for comfy summer camping. Like other hammocks, it gets you up and off uneven, rocky ground and/or away from poison ivy, mud, creepy crawlies and other potential inconveniences. But, again like other hammocks, it may not be the best choice for winter camping because the ground itself provides much needed insulation while the thin nylon bottom of the hammock lets the cold air zap away your body heat much more quickly. As for pitching the Hennessey, hopefully there are plenty of trees around. Just find a good spot with 12 to 25 feet space between a pair of sturdy trees. Pitching directions are printed right there on the stuff sack. Honestly, their diagram isn’t all that well drawn and makes it a bit confusing but once you figure it out, pitching the Hennessey is a breeze. You can also go on their website for a cool video tutorial. They recommend a figure-eight style lashing, basically wrapping the rope in a simple pattern, which is very handy. It won’t slip overnight and is easier to remove than most knots.

So, is the Hennessey Hammock as good as it sounds? I’d say: yep. The hammock itself seems durable, it’s easy to set up, and I can attest to the supreme comfort of hammock camping. The Hennessey is also ultralight compared to most backpacking tents and at $140, more affordable too. Sure, there are some situations when pitching a hammock is tough (no trees) but in many wilderness situations the Hennessey would make a great shelter choice.

Q. I want to buy some hiking boots and I was looking at some different brands. What boot brands do you like and what else should I consider when shopping for hiking boots?

A. My favorite hiking boot brand is the one that fits me best. Seriously, there are a bunch of great brands out there like Vasque, Merrell, Lowa, Hi-Tec, La Sportiva, Tecnica—the list goes on. With so many great choices, your main job is to narrow them down. First off, price. Find several pair that fit your budget and then try them all on. Walk around the store. Hop around. Climb around. Just make sure they fit correctly and feel good. Brand and cool styling should be secondary because there’s nothing cool about 20 miles of blisters in a pair of ill-fitting boots.

Q. Dear Gear Guy, I was on a hike last weekend with my troop and accidentally dropped my flashlight in a stream. By the time I fished it out of the water it was dead and still doesn’t work. I need a new one and am wondering if anyone makes waterproof headlamps?

A. First off it’s important to note that most flashlights and headlamps are just water-resistant, meaning they’re fine in the rain and can maybe withstand a quick dunk in a stream—but not much more. It might’ve been the impact that killed your light, but I’m betting it was just underwater too long.

Anyway, I do know of a cool, truly waterproof headlamp: the Underwater Kinetics Vizion eLED ($40; www.underwaterkinetics.com). It’s very basic: one button turns it on and off, while a dial on the left aims the light and a dial on the right changes the beam making it clear, diffused or red-colored. It runs on three AAA batteries and is very bright. And at $40 it’s pretty affordable too. Best of all for guys like you, the Vizion is indeed totally waterproof (down to 30 feet) and it works even when submerged.

Q. My feet always slip off my bicycle pedals so I was wondering what gear I should buy?

A. I hear you, Jo. Slipping off your pedals is a real downer, especially when your pedal swings around and slams into your shin. Ouch!

Well, without knowing exactly what kind of pedals you’re using now, let me say this: You should start with a sturdy BMX-style pedal, which is a wide flat pedal with lots of little studs for traction. Ride those with soft-soled shoes like a skate shoe and you should be good to go. You might also take a look at Power Grips ($23.50 for strap kit or $40.50 for complete pedals and straps; www.powergrips.com). These are straps that attach diagonally across your pedals to hold your feet in place while pedaling. They give you the same sort of traction and added power as pedals with toe clips and clipless pedals (which use special shoes to attach your foot to the pedal). But Power Grips are cheaper and it’s easier to pull your foot off the pedal when you need to step down.

Q. I am looking for a good hiking staff for my height (I’m about 5’9”). I need a long, quality staff but all the ones I have found are either short but good quality, or long but cheap. Help Gear Guy?!

A. Let’s start with what you need to know to find the right size hiking staff. Standing with your arms at your side, the stick should be about 6 or 8 inches taller than your elbow. Pick an even longer stick if you’ll be tackling steep terrain. If you’re really just planning on walking with your stick, a shorter one will do. There are plenty of different staff options, from basic hand-carved wooden models to ultra-light aluminum staffs with built-in shock absorbers. Here are a few to consider:

• Chestnut Hiking Staff ($32; scoutstuff.org) 45-inch-long handcrafted staff made of Chestnut and equipped with a leather strap and metal tip.
• Whistle Creek Scout Staff ($25, whistlecreek.com) These 48-inch staffs are carved from Hickory or Sassafras with a leather strap and rubber tip.
• REI Hiker ShockLight Staff ($60; rei.com) A telescoping staff that can be adjusted from 51 inches long to 28.5 inches depending on your height and the type of terrain you’re traveling. Also features anti-shock springs and the cork knob atop the grip can be unscrewed to reveal a camera mount so you can use the staff like a monopod for photography.

Q. Hey Gear Guy, this question has been nagging me for so long: If I’m going backpacking should I wear boots with high ankles or ones with low ankles?

A. If you’re going on a true backpacking trip and carrying a fully loaded pack, you’ll be more prone to rolling your ankle on unstable/uneven ground. So you should be wearing boots with plenty of ankle support. The higher-cut boots also protect your ankles from sharp rocks and thorns and keep you drier in wet environments. If you’re carrying a very light pack or just doing a day hike, low-top hiking shoes are fine. They are going to be lighter weight, more breathable and more comfortable.

Download our templates below to help you get started.

TRIP PLAN

Once your crew has agreed on an itinerary, write down your plans, and leave copies with your parents and a handful of other responsible adults.

• File No. 1: Trip Plan, Microsoft Word: Modify it yourself to fit your trip.
• File No. 2: Trip Plan, PDF: Print our file and fill in the details for your trip by hand.

EMERGENCY RESPONSE PLAN

Before you leave for any trip, try to anticipate what could go wrong. Altitude sickness? Flooding? Avalanche? A serious injury? Provide copies to a handful of responsible adults who won’t be going on the trip.

• File No. 1: Emergency Response Plan, Microsoft Word: Modify it yourself to fit your trip.
• File No. 2: Emergency Response Plan, PDF: Print our file and fill in the details for your trip by hand.

DUTY ROSTER

Your duty roster should help you organize the responsibilities of each member — or each patrol — as you progress along your trek. Come up with a list of duties (water purification, cooking, cleanup, etc.) along with a list of the Scouts who will perform them. That way everybody knows from the start what they’re in for.

• File No. 1: Duty Roster, Microsoft Excel: Type in your own job names and the names of who will perform them.
• File No. 2: Duty Roster, PDF: Print out file and write down the names of the jobs and the Scouts by hand.

Q. Please help, Gear Guy! I like to camp and hike but I always get slowed down by my heavy tent. Can you help me find a lightweight AND affordable backpacking tent?

A. If you plan on backpacking regularly, you ought to be shopping for a lightweight two-person tent that weighs around five pounds or so. Sure you can go lots lighter, but the lighter you go, the more you’ll have to spend. One way to make sure your pack stays light is to share the load with your tentmate—he carries the poles and fly; you carry the tent body. That way, you each are carrying just a couple of pounds. Simple.

O.K., now for some recommendations. Here are a few lightweight tents that might fit your budget:

• Mountain Hardwear Drifter 2 ($165; mountainhardwear.com) This new freestanding tent weighs in at 4 lbs. 12. oz., has lots of good ventilation and a large vestibule.
• Eureka! Forte SQ 2 ($130; eurekatent.com) The Forte is a new A-frame-style tent that’s very affordable for its 4 lbs. 8 oz. weight.
• Big Agnes Lynx Pass 2 ($200; bigagnes.com) The 5 lb. 8 oz.-Lynx Pass is a cool freestanding tent with the option to pitch the fly as an awning using hiking poles or sticks.

Different situations call for different knots. The knots needed for tying fishing line to a hook are different from the knots needed to join two sections of line together.

To be prepared for anything, learn these knots before you hit the water.

IMPROVED CLINCH KNOT
(for tying line to a hook)

1. Thread the line through the eye of the hook, then make 5 to 7 wraps around the line with the loose end.

2. Thread the loose end of the line through the loop closest to the eye, then back around inside the loose section of line.

3. Pull both ends of the line until tight.

4. Trim the loose end of the line if necessary.

PALOMAR KNOT
(for tying line to a hook)

1. Double your line to make a loop, then push the loop through the eye of your hook.

2. Tie a loose overhand knot.

3. Pass the loop around the end of the hook and pull on the line to tighten.

TURLE KNOT
(for tying thin line to a small hook)

1. Run the line through the eye of the hook, then tie a loose double overhand knot in the end of the line.

2. Pass the open loop over the hook and tighten the whole thing so that the loop tightens around the eye.

BLOOD KNOT
(for joining two sections of line together)

1. Line up the ends of each line together for several inches, then wrap the first line around the second at least five times.

2. Wrap the second around the first at least five times, and bring both loose ends back to the middle between the two lines.

3. Pull tight on each line until the knot is snug.

DOUBLE SURGEON’S LOOP
(for forming a loop in the end of a line)

1. Fold over the end of the line to make a double line, then tie a single overhand knot.

2. Pass the loop through the hole in the overhand knot one more time.

3. Moisten the knot and tighten.

WIRE LINE TO MONO KNOT
(for attaching wire line to monofilament)

1. Fold four inches of wire line back over itself to form a bend at the end of the line.

2. Run your monofilament line through the middle of the bend, then wrap it once around the bottom of the bend.

3. With the monofilament, make seven close turns around both lines.

4. Pass the loose end of the monofilament above the center strand of monofilament and below the wire line, then pull snug.

TUCKED SHEET BEND
(for attaching line to a leader loop, or snelled hook to the line)

1. Pass the end of the line through the loop, then make a simple sheet bend knot.

2. Pass the end of the line back through the loop of the sheet bend.

3. Tighten until snug.

SNELLING A HOOK
(for attaching monofilament to a hook)

1. Pass the end of the line through the eye of the hook twice, creating a loop that hangs alongside the hook.

2. Wrap the loop around the hook, forming tight coils, 5 to 10 times.

3. Holding the coils in place with one finger, pull the line up until the loop is snug under the coils.