Q. I’m going to the 2013 National Scout Jamboree, and I’ve been told that there’s tons of hiking. That might be a problem because my feet sweat a lot and give me blisters. Any suggestions for preventing and treating this?

A. Woo-hoo! Headed to the jamboree this month — that’s awesome. But blisters, not so awesome. Blisters are mostly caused by friction, heat and, as you know, sweaty feet. Prevention is the best medicine when it comes to blisters. Here are some tips:

• Make sure your boots fit properly (snug with enough room for your toes to wiggle). Choose breathable boots so your feet don’t get so sweaty.
• Break them in. Most boots these days are comfortable straight out of the box, but make sure the first time you wear them isn’t on an 18-mile hike.
• Wear good socks. Stick with good, merino wool socks (SmartWool  are my favorite) or synthetic socks. Both will wick sweat and moisture away from your feet.
• When you get off the trail, always wash and dry your feet thoroughly and wear sandals around camp to let your feet air out.
• Liner socks. Some people like to wear synthetic or silk sock liners under their socks because they also help wick moisture and reduce skin-on-skin friction.
• Foot powder might help keep your feet drier, and there’s even spray antiperspirant available for feet, like Maximum Strength Gold Bond Medicated Foot Spray.
• If a blister forms, stop immediately and put some moleskin (or even duct tape) on the spot to help reduce further inflammation.

Q. Hey Gear Guy, I’m debating on whether to buy a Gerber pocketknife or a Swiss Army knife. My friend says Gerber; but I’ve heard Swiss Army my whole life. Which one should I buy?

A. The answer is: You’re both right. Swiss Army pocketknives are legendary for their quality and usefulness. There are two companies that manufacture Swiss Army knives, Wenger and Victorinox — both make excellent knives. As for Gerber, they are a great knife manufacturer, too. Gerber has been manufacturing knives for the past 70 years, and makes a wide range of knives from standard folders and sheath knives to multitool-type knives like the Gerber Fit ($41; gerbergear.com). Similar to a Swiss Army knife, it’s packed with useful tools, 10 in all, including a fine-edge and serrated knife blade, scissors, tweezers, a few screwdrivers, and a super bright LED flashlight.

Q. My son wants a fire-starter. Which is the best and easiest?

A. Hey, Mama. The real question is: Are you sure you really want your son to have a fire-starter? Just kidding. If he’s a Scout, I’m sure he’ll be responsible with it. A good option is the Light My Fire steel Scout ($12; lightmyfireusa.com). It’s basically a flint and steel set that was first designed for the Swedish military but is now used by outdoorsmen. Just scrape the steel across the flint and it throws a strong spark. It even works when wet. If your son gathers kindling and dry sticks and aims the sparks onto a cotton ball with a dab of Vaseline, he should be able to easily start a good fire. To make things even easier, he might also try Light My Fire Maya Dust ($5; lightmyfireusa.com). Just sprinkle some of the pulverized pieces of fatwood pine at the base of your soon-to-be fire and it’ll light quickly and easily and produce an extra hot flame.

Throughout your time as a Boy Scout, you’re going to learn a lot of different things about a lot of different things. But it’s not enough to simply earn a merit badge and then never think about that topic again.

If you really want to learn something, you have to put your knowledge to the test.

To test your skills, see how you do on our online quiz based on information in the Boy Scout Handbook. Then check out the June 2013 issue of Boys’ Life to read how Scouts in New Jersey put their skills to the test.

Q. I have a two-person tent that I really like, but when it rains, it leaks badly. I applied seam sealer as you had said in a previous answer, but now it’s like the rain is coming through the tent itself, not the seams. I think the rain fly that came with the tent is not big enough. Can I buy another type of rain fly? I was thinking a tarp would not allow air to come through and I will get hot. Do you have any other suggestions?

A. There are a couple of things you can do. First, for waterproofing the tent fabric, use something like ReviveX Air Dry Waterproofing Spray ($10, mcnett.com). Just spray it on the fabric, and let it air-dry. That should help with some of your leakage issues. Next, get a tarp. Yes, if you draped it directly on top of your tent that would severely limit your air flow. The better choice is simply to string it up just above your tent, so it’s not touching it at all. The tarp will protect your tent from rain and keep your stuff dry.

Q. Dear Gear Guy, I have been looking for an affordable camping hammock that I can use in all seasons, preferably under $200. Any suggestions?

A. I love camping in a hammock, too. It’s tough to camp on hard ground after you’ve spent a night sleeping up off the roots and rocks. Check out the Scout Classic from Hennessy Hammocks. It’s priced right at $100 and is a good-quality basic camping hammock with built-in mosquito netting and a detachable rain fly. It’s lightweight too, at just 2 lbs., 10 oz., and fits inside a stuff sack about the size of a bag of potato chips. This might not be the best choice for winter camping, though. During the winter the ground itself provides much-needed insulation, while the thin nylon bottom of the hammock lets the cold air zap away your body heat much more quickly. Now, don’t get me wrong, there are definitely ways to do winter-hammock camping right (including layering a sleeping pad and down winter bag inside your hammock), but you really have to be well prepared.

— Adam the Angler, Fox River Grove, Ill.

A. Now that’s the perfect summertime question. To answer it, I called my buddy Jimbo Meador, a legendary fishing guide from Point Clear, Ala. Here’s what he had to say:

“I grew up catching catfish on limb lines. Just find some low hanging tree limbs that hang right out over the river. Tie one or more lines on the limb and bait the hooks with cut bait. Cut up fish, eel, crawfish, or even cheese will work.

“If there’s current in the river put a little weight on your line, like some splitshot. Then let it sit. When you see the limb shaking you know you’ve got a catfish.

“I’ve caught plenty of catfish on a pole and line but you catch them way better at night, and with the limb line you can set your lines then be off doing something else while you’re catching fish — like maybe even sleeping. Then you can wake up to catfish and grits!”

Q. Last summer at Cub Scout day camp, the temperature hit 106 degrees. I like to wear a wide brim hat on days like that, but sometimes they just get in the way and a ball cap works better, especially when I’m out doing a lot of active stuff like running around or jogging. I find that most ball caps make my head feel hot and just retain more heat. I try soaking them in water and letting evaporation cool my head down, which helps a little, but I was wondering if you’ve come across any good caps that might have some ventilation in them.

A. Yeah, I too sometimes prefer a ball cap on those really hot days, especially when it’s windy. Sounds like you need a high-performance baseball-style cap made with lightweight, quick-dry material and plenty of mesh venting. There are lots of options out there, many even equipped with sun-protective materials. Here are three that I like:

• Patagonia Vented Longbill Cap ($25; patagonia.com)
• Columbia Blood and Guts Freezer Ball Cap ($22; columbia.com)
• Outdoor Research Swift Cap ($20; outdoorresearch.com)

Aconitum plants are one of the more common kinds of poisonous flowers. The name originated from the Greek world “akovitov” meaning without struggle to signify the plants’ rapid deadly effects. They include over 250 different types of flowers which carry the nicknames of “aconite,” “monkshood,” and “wolfsbane.”

These plants prefer to grow in shady areas of mountain meadows all throughout the northern hemisphere and can be incidentally spotted both in the wild and as decorative plants. The flowers are tall with large blue, purple or sometimes white flowers in the form of a cylinder.

Initially grown for their supposed medicinal powers, Aconite is found in many Chinese traditional herbal remedies. More commonly, because of its poisonous capacity Aconite has been used in many popular stories ranging from those of Greek mythology to even modern-day Harry Potter books! (Does the Wolfsbane Potion of the werewolves ring a bell?)

The specific mechanism of how the Aconite flower leads to death is quite complex. Its main actions center around our cardiovascular system, which includes our heart, the blood vessels that run to and from it, and all the energy and electricity needed to keep the heart going. One of the most important elements for our heart health is none other than the main ingredient in simple salt – that is, sodium!

Sodium makes up less than 1% of our total body volume, but without it we would not be alive today! One of sodium’s more important roles is its help in the generation of energy for our muscles. The heart, one very strong bundle of muscles, requires a well regulated amount of sodium to be readily available at all times. Other organs like the kidneys help our body maintain a pretty constant amount of sodium floating around our cells. When this concentration is altered in any way, our body’s energy production system is jeopardized leaving the heart scrambling to keep beating.

Aconite tampers with our body’s ability to precisely regulate the amount of sodium available in our body. In turn, the heart beat becomes very irregular disallowing for steady blood flow to the rest of our organs—a process called arrhythmia. Since blood carries oxygen, essential for all life, without proper blood supply all organs, including the brain, begin to slowly shut down.

The severity of the poisoning depends on the amount of the flower eaten. For mice, a lethal dose is less than ¼ of a milligram; for humans 2 mg may be enough to prove fatal. Initial symptoms may include sneezing, sweating and chills, feelings of weakness, and a numbing sensation around the mouth. Overtime, the numbness can spread and more serious side effects like vomiting and diarrhea will begin. The heart rate can initially slow down or can speed up and be “irregular.” Overtime, as the brain continues to be deprived of blood and oxygen it begins to shut down leading to confusion and even seizures. Most people die because of the initial shock on the heart and the deadly effects of arrhythmia. These symptoms can begin after 3 minutes to 2 hours after ingestion of the flower, but typically start within 10-20 minutes.

There are no known antidotes for the Aconite flowers, and most of the things doctors can do in the hospital attempt to only buy time and help the body rid itself of the poison. Treatments include cleansing the stomach of the ingested flowers; making sure the patient is able to breath by supporting the airway; and providing adequate amounts of oxygen. Fortunately, serious poisoning from plants is rare in children because the quantity of the plant required to cause serious poisoning is usually greater than what a small child ingests. Serious toxicity or death is a common risk for household pets; in adults, fatality usually occurs as a result of intentional abuse by those trying to hurt themselves or others.

The beautiful Aconite flowers entice onlookers by their bright outer coloration but pose a very dangerous threat on the inside. Kids and adults must beware of these deadly plants. Always handle them with gloves, and wash any clothing which may have come in contact with the flowers. With a good ability to spot these plants and a few precautionary guidelines, Aconite poisoning can become just a story of the past rather than a realistic threat in our communities.

Q. Whenever I go on a camping trip my sleeping bag gets all smelly from me sweating all day. How do I make it smell better — besides taking it into the cleaners?

A. Ever hear of soap and a washcloth? Just kidding, well, sort of. There are a few things you can do to minimize the odor of your sleeping bag.

On the trail:

• bring along an extra pair of clean clothes to sleep in
• before going to bed each night, wash your feet, face and underarms
• no water? No problem. Bring along a pack of baby wipes or WetOnes.
• let your sleeping bag “air out” every morning before breaking camp for the day

Back home:

• “air out” your sleeping bag again
• if it’s really stinky, wash it. Use a front-load washer and avoid regular detergent. Instead, for down sleeping bags use something like ReviveX Down Cleaner ($9; mcnett.com) or Nikwax Down Wash ($9; nikwax.com). For synthetic bags, try a cleaner like Granger’s Performance Wash ($9; grangers-usa.com). Be sure to run it through the rinse cycle twice. Air drying your bag is safest, but if you’re in a hurry, check the bag’s care tag and tumble dry it on low heat.

Tarantulas are arachnids, which is a class of animals with eight legs and an external skeleton (also known as an exoskeleton). This is important to help distinguish spiders from other insects, which only have six legs. Within the class of arachnids there are many families of spiders; the large and hairy tarantulas we know come from the Theraphosidae family, which includes over 900 other specific species. They can range in size from as small as 2.5 cm (about the length of a fingernail) to as big as a foot-long sandwich!

The tarantulas’ name comes from an Italian town of Taranto where a different spider was initially found but the name traveled to North America and stuck like a fly in a web. Tarantulas can be found throughout the Americas, Africa and in parts of Asia. Overall, they prefer dry soils in deserts and grassland areas. In North America, many species prefer living in the ground, but rarely they can be found residing within trees.

Tarantulas mainly eat insects and other smaller spiders, but large tarantulas can kill lizards, mice, birds and even snakes! Before attacking their enemy or prey, tarantulas usually send a warning signal either by getting into a “threat posture” or making a hissing sound. The tarantula’s mouthparts, called chelicerae, contain the glands that produce the venom that drain through the fangs – like nature’s version of a hypodermic needle. Once prey has been envenomated, tarantulas secrete juices from their chelicerae that coat their captured prey and help to liquefy and digest it from the “outside-in” (the reverse of how our own stomachs work!) making it easier for the tarantulas to slurp up.

As horrifying as that sounds, most tarantulas are relatively harmless to humans. Only rarely does a tarantula bite cause serious harm or an allergic reaction that may actually become life-threatening to some.

Tarantulas do have another potentially more serious defensive trick up their sleeve – their hair! Other than giving tarantulas an instantaneously recognizable outfit, these hairs serve a secondary function of defense. Many of the North and South American tarantulas have barbed wire-like, 1-mm long hairs on their belly which, when attacked or threatened, tarantulas can fling at their attackers. These hairs may be extremely irritating to human eyes and mucous membranes (our nose and mouth) and can lead to intense itching and the formation of hives (urticaria). Because of this, any airborne fragments of a tarantula can lead to severe irritation and allergic reactions, some even requiring emergency medical treatment.

Let’s shed some more light on scorpions:  Did you know that they glow when placed under ultraviolet light?  No one is quite sure why this occurs; it may be a warning signal to possible predators or even a way to lure their prey.  Either way, it is definitely pretty creepy.

For the most part, the scorpion’s venom is adapted to their lifestyle, and since their diet mostly consists of insects, their venom is typically relatively harmless to humans.  Only about 25 species of scorpions are known to be lethal to humans; the majority of these are part of the Buthidae family.  The two most common lethal scorpions found in the United States are the Arizona Bark Scorpion and the Striped Bark Scorpion.  The Arizona Bark Scorpion is mainly found in the Southwest United States; fatalities from the sting of this scorpion are rare and the greatest risk is for the elderly and young children. The Striped Bark Scorpion is found more in the Central South and the Midwest of the United States; death is also fairly rare with the Striped Bark Scorpion, but the sting can be extremely painful.

So what happens if a human gets stung by a scorpion?  Some common symptoms of a scorpion sting are a tingling or burning at the sting site, numbness, difficulty swallowing, difficulty breathing, blurry vision, or seizures.  In some rare cases, pancreatitis – a painful inflammation of the pancreas – may occur.  Some symptoms of pancreatitis are abdominal pain, chills, fever, sweating, and nausea.  Onset of symptoms is usually quite rapid and can last for between 24 to 48 hours.

If stung by a scorpion, the first thing to do is to make sure you get yourself out of harm’s way and avoid another sting.  If possible, try to remember what color the scorpion is or snap a photo with your smartphone; do NOT try to catch the scorpion because you might end up getting stung a second time!

Once out of harm’s way, call 911 and then wash the sting site with soap and water, apply a cold compress for “10 minutes on, then 10 minutes off.”  Importantly, avoid aspirin or ibuprofen (such as Advil or Motrin) because these can cause the venom to spread through the body more quickly.  Acetaminophen (such as Tylenol) can be taken to help relieve the pain at the site of the sting.  Sometimes even more powerful pain medications, like opiates, are required to help alleviate pain. Taking an oral antihistamine such as diphenhydramine (such as Benadryl) can help reduce some of the swelling and itching, as well.  Immobilize the area so as to protect the wound and to help delay spreading the venom through the blood more quickly.  Do not attempt suction, and do not cut into the wound; these are just great ways to ensure an infection!

In general, it is a good idea to go and get checked out at the nearest hospital or health clinic if stung by a scorpion – especially if the species of scorpion is unknown.

Q. Dear Gear Guy, I’m looking to buy a new fishing pole, but don’t know what qualities to look for in a rod. What do you recommend?

A. Hey Brad. If you’re just getting into fishing, you’ll want to look for a simple spin-casting rod-and-reel package. It’s basically a rod with a push-button reel that releases the line when you press the button and cast. Expect to pay about $15 or $20 for one of those (comes with fishing line) at your local sporting goods store. If you plan on fishing along the shoreline or in places where there’s heavy tree cover, a simple cane pole or straight rod (without a reel) is the best choice. Beginners should generally avoid spinning rods and fly rods because they are tougher to use. You can definitely spend more for a higher quality rod and reel, but a basic spincaster will definitely do the trick. Happy fishing!

Sleds were first utilized by several North American Indian tribes for transporting goods and belongings. The Cree, Anishinabe, Innu and Chippewa tribes constructed them from thin hardwood boards; one end was heated, bent and stabilized with crossbars to produce the curved front and a rope was attached to the front. The sleds could be pulled by people or teams of dogs and were extremely helpful for moving heavy loads over longer distances.

While initially used as a utilitarian tool, modern sleds come in several different forms and are used primarily for recreation. Snow sleds, or carioles, are used to transport people and consist of a mostly enclosed cabin with a partial roof. They feature long thin runners that reduce surface friction and thereby allow for the transport of heavier loads. Olympic sleds, or bobsleds, were invented by the Swiss and boast a steering mechanism and protective chassis. The sleds used by children and adults alike to coast down snowy slopes come in many shapes and sizes; while fundamentally similar to the initial toboggans used by the North American Indians, they are now often comprised of laminated plastic bodies for speed and affordability.

So what can you do to minimize your risk of getting hurt while still enjoying the new snowfall? First, understand your equipment. Sleds that can rotate, such as disks and snow tubes, should be avoided due to their unpredictability and lack of control. Preferably, use a sled with runners and a steering mechanism. Never sled headfirst! Doing so makes it more likely that your head will absorb the brunt of any impact; sledders should sit facing forward with their feet extended in front of them. Helmets should be worn to protect from serious head trauma in case of a crash or fall, and wearing multiple layers of clothing can provide padding and shield you from the cold.

It is also critically important to be aware of your environment. Never sled in the dark, as poor visibility increases your chances of crashing into an unseen object. Only sled in designated areas that are free of trees, signposts, fences and rocks. Also, make sure that your sledding run does not end in a street, parking lot or pond; a study by the Department of Pediatrics at the Seattle Children’s Hospital showed a significant increase in risk of injury when sledding in the streets as opposed to in parks. As a final word, it is never a good idea to sled while being pulled by a motorized vehicle, such as a car, snowmobile, or ATV. By following these recommendations, you can be safe on the slopes!

Rattlesnakes, water moccasins (“cottonmouths”), and copperheads are reptiles of the family Viperidae, subfamily Crotalinae (formerly Crotalidae), which consists of 18 genera and 151 species. Crotilinae are responsible for most of the 5,000 snake bites reported annually in the United States. They are commonly known as pit vipers, a reference to the heat sensing pits located behind their nostrils. Ranging in size from 12 inches to 12 feet, they live throughout the continental United States and are native to every state except Alaska, Hawaii, and Maine. They normally inhabit desert areas, but are also found in woodland terrain and mountains. Pit vipers seek out shade during the day, preferring to come out at night when it gets cooler. They stick close to areas where they can easily reach shelter, such as heavy brush, rocks, fallen trees, and soil or sand.

Most snake bites occur in the summer months when both snakes and humans are most active outdoors, with the greatest number of venomous bites occurring in southern and western states with warmer climates. Pit vipers tend to leave humans alone, usually striking only after being harassed or startled. That fact is reflected in bite statistics, which demonstrates that men are more frequently bitten than women and that the most common bite locations are the hands (HELPFUL HINT: Do NOT pick-up a rattlesnake!).

While experienced hikers and outdoorsmen will sometimes hear the characteristic warning rattle, often they get bitten after unknowingly walking through a snake’s hiding place. Great care should be taken when walking through tall grass, the woods, or dead leaves, since these are all favorite resting spots for snakes. Wearing thick long pants with boots can help protect your exposed legs in the event that you run into one.

Vera’s experience reflects the diversity of symptoms that can arise following a bite from a pit viper. Common local effects at the site of the bite are pain, bruising, and swelling. Systemic effects range in severity and include non-specific findings such as vomiting, diarrhea, sweating, and weakness, as well as organ-specific damage to kidneys and nerves which could lead to numbness, muscle spasms, and seizures.

So, what do you if you get bitten by a snake?

• First, remain calm. Around 25-50% of pit viper bites are “dry” bites, meaning that the snake does not inject any venom when its fangs pierce your skin. However, if envenomation does occur, getting anxious will only make your heart beat faster, hastening the spread of venom throughout the body.
• Call for help as soon as possible.
• Don’t try to capture or kill the snake; snakes can strike more than once and their fangs can contain venom even after their heads are cut off!
• Try to remember the color and shape of the snake (or take a photo), as that can be helpful for doctors in selecting the appropriate treatment.

While you wait, you should keep the bitten body part at the level of your heart. Do not try to suck out the poison, as that will cause the poison to spread to your mouth; additionally, our mouths are full of bacteria that could cause a serious infection if introduced into the bite wound. Refrain from tying a tourniquet around the affected limb, which will cut off circulation to the limb and concentrate all the venom in one place, leading to increased local tissue death (and the possible need for amputation). When you get to the hospital you will be given anti-venom, which should inactivate the snake’s venom.

If you are bitten by a snake and want professional help, you can speak with a medical toxicologist at a United States regional poison control center by calling 1-800-222-1222.

Skier’s thumb is an injury to the ulnar collateral ligament (UCL), which runs between the two bones on the interior side of your thumb and holds the bones of the thumb together. The injury can occur when you fall on your outstretched hands while holding a ski pole, causing the thumb to either bend backwards or too far out to the side.

This type of thumb injury is also sometimes referred to as “gamekeeper’s thumb” because it was first seen in gamekeepers (people who work in the countryside to make sure there is enough game for hunting). It was noticed that many gamekeepers were getting chronic thumb injuries from wringing the necks of chickens and hares between their thumb and index fingers. You are much more likely to incur this as an acute injury when skiing rather than from chronic use – unless, of course, you decide to pursue the now-rare profession of gamekeeping!

As with any injury, the best treatment is to prevent it from occurring in the first place! There are a few easy steps you can take to drastically reduce your risk of skier’s thumb while enjoying the fresh powder this winter season. First, choose ski poles that have finger groove grips but also don’t have any sort of restraint such as a wrist strap. Also, hopefully when you learned how to ski, you were taught to let go of your poles if you do take a spill to reduce injuries of this nature.

Falling on outstretched hands in any situation puts you at risk for many upper extremity injuries, including injuries to the wrist, shoulder, hand and thumb. So how do you figure out if you have skier’s thumb? The most important clue is if you notice significant weakness or are completely unable to squeeze or hold things between your thumb and index finger (and it may be really painful since you have torn the ligament that controls that movement!). Your thumb will also be very likely to be sensitive to touch along the side of your thumb close to your index finger. There also can be swelling or bruising of the thumb, but these symptoms might not show up initially. If you have some of these symptoms along with pain in the wrist don’t yet rule out skier’s thumb and assume it’s a wrist injury only. You may still have a thumb injury and could be experiencing what is called “referred pain.” Referred pain is a complex phenomenon that causes you to feel pain at a location different from the original site of the injury. It is caused by the complex pattern of nerves that bring pain signals from the site of the injury to be processed by the central nervous system.

If you or a friend take a spill on the slopes and experience these symptoms, it is best to seek medical attention quickly. It is important to determine whether your fall also resulted in another injury such as a wrist fracture, which will need treatment fairly quickly. There are some actions you can take to lessen the pain while waiting to see the doctor. Take ibuprofen (Advil or Motrin) as soon as possible if you are medically okay to do so. This will help reduce the pain and can also reduce swelling of the thumb. You can also apply ice to the thumb for “20 minutes on and 20 minutes off” until you reach medical attention as this will also help with the pain as well as keep the swelling minimized. If you have an ACE bandage in your first aide kit, loosely wrapping the thumb can also help reduce the pain and swelling as well as protect the thumb from further injury.

Once you have been diagnosed with skier’s thumb, you will likely be referred to an orthopedic doctor who will be able to evaluate your injury and help you decide on a treatment option. Depending on the severity of your injury, the thumb may have to be immobilized in a brace or cast for a few weeks, or in more severe cases (or if the UCL is completely torn), surgery may be required.

Hopefully you can enjoy the mountains during this winter season without having to tour the local hospital! So bundle up, remember all the precautions you can take, and hit the slopes equipped with the knowledge of what to do if you have an unfortunate fall!

Different winter activities have different risks associated with them. In skiing, knee injuries are the most common occurrence, while in snowboarding the most common injuries are to the upper extremities since both feet are attached to the board. More specifically, wrist fractures are the most common snowboarding injuries. The wrist is also at risk in ice-skating or even if you just happen to slip and fall while walking on an icy sidewalk. Let’s look at the various types of wrist injuries in a little more depth.

Wrist fractures most commonly occur when someone falls on outstretched hands and the impact pushes the hand backwards. A wrist fracture can be a break in any of the numerous wrist bones or the ends of either of the two bones of the forearm. The scaphoid is the smallest wrist bone and one of the easiest bones to break. The forearm is made up of two main bones, the radius, which connects from the thumb side of the hand to the elbow, and the ulna, which is larger and longer and runs parallel to the radius. A particularly common wrist fracture is called a Colle’s Fracture, and this occurs when the radius is fractured near its connection to the hand.

So, how do you know whether or not you’ve broken your wrist? Some common signs to look out for after a fall are the following: Immediate pain, swelling through the hand or forearm, tenderness, difficulty moving the wrist, and just the wrist “not looking quite right.” If it seems that your wrist is stuck in a weird position or if you see a bulge that is not normal, then it is highly possible that you have fractured your wrist.

If you or someone in your group do suffer a wrist injury, there are a few things you can do to ease the discomfort – especially since the nearest medical center can be a few hours away! You can give the injured person ibuprofen (Advil or Motrin) to help relieve some of the pain and reduce the swelling. Also, if you have access to a splint, you can carefully splint the wrist. A Sam Splint may be found in some first aid kits or you can make an improvised splint out of something like a ski poles tied together. If you can’t splint the wrist without causing too much pain, then try to find some position that will keep the wrist relatively still and stable. Applying ice can also be useful to reduce the swelling. Once you get to the nearest medical facility a doctor will be able to determine what type of treatment, typically either a cast or surgery, will be best for the particular injury.

Hopefully, with a few easy safety preparations you can keep your winter vacation free of emergency room visits! The most important thing to remember when preparing for any sport or wilderness activity is to make sure to protect yourself as well as possible. Always wear a helmet when skiing or snowboarding (or if you’re just learning to ice skate and you want to avoid a painful headache!). It’s also a good idea to wear kneepads under your snow pants and wrist guards under your gloves to protect you against the most common winter sports injuries. Always make sure that someone in your group has a kit with basic first aid gear. Even without a major mishap, active sports like skiing, snowboarding, and ice skating can leave your muscles pretty sore. Taking some ibuprofen can help with the general aches and pains of a fun day on the slopes and also come in handy if there were any unexpected falls!

So, before the snow melts, get in all the snowboarding, ice-skating, skiing, snowball fights and sledding you can. Make sure to take precautions, though, so you don’t have to cut your fun short by having an unexpected slip on some ice!

Chilblains (CHILL-blayns), known more commonly as pernio, is a rare and painful response of our blood vessels to cold, specifically, in above freezing temperatures. Actually, the temperature itself doesn’t play much of a difference; instead, it is the exposure of skin to dampness and wind that is most crucial. For this reason chilblains has been seen most often in mild-temperature regions where cold and damp winters are rare leaving people surprised by and least prepared for the occasion. England, known for its wet and chilly climate, has about 10 percent new cases of chilblains per year. Most surprisingly, the usually hot and humid Hong Kong has some chilblains cases reported annually during its coldest months of January and February.

How or why chilblains develops is not entirely understood. Our skin acts like a thermometer and helps sense the temperature outside and inside our body; it makes sure we are always perfectly warm at 37° Celsius (98.6° Fahrenheit) . When the temperature outside lowers, our skin tries to preserve our internal heat by sending signals to our farthest blood vessels in our hands, feet, and tip of our nose telling those vessels to squeeze tight; this slows the flow of hot blood to our most distant tissues and retains heat toward the center of our body. In chilblains, those distant “shut-off” areas begin to react abnormally to the lack of blood flow. The blood vessels closest to the skin surface, and with the least blood, wage a full inflammatory response asking the body to pay attention to them. Instead of helping the situation, the inflammation actually leads to the destruction of blood vessels and real damage to the skin above them.

Chilblains can look like single or multiple, red or purple swellings or blisters. Many affected people complain of severe itching, burning, and pain in the areas. Fingers and toes are the most commonly affected areas.

Some people are at higher risk of developing chilblains than others. Those with chronic diseases of poor blood circulation, like diabetes, are more sensitive to temperature changes since their blood vessels are not as reactive to skin’s signals. Young, horse-riding women are also somewhat more susceptible! This group of women ride their horses for hours during winter months. Their tight and improperly-insulated riding outfits squeeze skin and blood vessels and, thus, interfere with the intricate cold temperature response mechanism leading to large, tender chilblains-like spots on the lateral calves and thighs.

Smoking cigarettes also increases your risk of chilblains because the ingredients in tobacco – including nicotine – directly damage your blood vessels. Thus, overtime the vessels are much more likely to have an abnormal reaction in response to cold temperatures leading to a painful chilblains reaction.

To decrease your risks and prevent this condition, wear properly-insulated, waterproof, and loose-fitting clothing in layers. Crucially, strive to keep the most distant parts of your body – toes and fingers, for example – warm and dry. Avoiding sitting in one place, and try to maintain motion in order to promote better blood circulation.

Some healthcare providers may be unfamiliar with this rare disorder, which sometimes leads to unnecessary hospital admissions and extensive laboratory and imaging evaluations. The good news is that chilblains usually goes away on its own in a couple of weeks without much treatment! Thus, it is vital for you to become familiar with this rare, painful but non-life threatening condition which can pop up in a cold, wet, and windy situation.

Q. I want to buy a pocketknife for my 8-year-old nephew. He has just started a pocketknife collection and has about 8 knives. Can you recommend a good knife for a boy that age?

A. You must be a cool aunt to be buying your nephew a knife! Will you be my auntie too? OK, seriously, good knives for an 8-year-old? Here are two that I think he’d be sure to dig:

BSA Official Cub Scouts Pocket Knife ($19.99; www.scoutstuff.org) You just can’t go wrong with the official Cub Scouts pocketknife! It’s got a stainless steel 2¼”-long blade with a flat head screwdriver, cap lifter and punch blade folded inside.

Gerber Mini Paraframe ($16.26; www.gerbergear.com) This folding knife has an open stainless steel handle, which makes it both lightweight (just 1.4 ounces) and cool-looking! The 2.22”-long locking blade is high carbon stainless steel with a fine edge and it comes with a handy pocket clip too.

Q. Dear Gear Guy. I love skateboarding but every winter it’s snowy and cold and icy where I live so skating outdoors isn’t an option. How do I make sure that I don’t lose all my skillz?

A. Not to worry; there are some things you can still do to keep your skating skills up. First off, if there’s an indoor skatepark where you live, go! If you have a garage, get your mom or dad to pull the cars out and set up a mini-skatepark inside. You can also always practice your ollies, kickflips and such in your living room, even on the carpet. Balance boards, like the Goof Board ($139; http://www.goofboard.com) help simulate boardsports and are a fun way to improve your balance. Finally, if Old Man Winter gives you snow, go snowboarding! Don’t have a snowboard or mountains? Get an old skateboard deck (minus the trucks and wheels) and just slide around.

Q. What’s the best way to store Dutch ovens to keep them away from dirt and bugs and to stop rusting?

A. While I’m an expert at eating all sorts of tasty stuff baked in Dutch ovens, I’m not so handy with care and maintenance tips. That’s why I got in touch with Brenda Wildish from the International Dutch Oven Society. Here’s what she had to say:

“First, make sure the oven has a good seasoning (a coating of lard, vegetable oil, etc. that makes it stick-free). Then, place a paper towel inside the oven to collect the moisture. Some folks also use newspaper. Next, prop open the lid with a folded paper towel, just a small crack to let the air circulate. The helps the oven from going rancid. To prevent critters from getting in, store your oven in a box or pillowcase, or buy a carrying bag to fit the oven.”

There you go, Rusty. For more info, check out the International Dutch Oven Society at www.idos.com. And if you need help cleaning the fresh-baked brownies out of your Dutch oven, let me know!

The sensation that the temperature in the presence of wind is colder than the temperature without wind is called wind chill. We are not just talking about “weather wind” because the air rushing over our skin during activities such as skiing or snowboarding, for example, can drop the felt temperature, too. Wind chill can put us at risk for frostbite or hypothermia more easily, so knowing about it can make a huge difference!

The intensity of the wind chill phenomenon really depends on two things:

• The “still-air” temperature (i.e., the temperature without considering the effect of wind)
• The wind velocity (i.e., how fast the wind is blowing)

Because our human bodies constantly give off heat, our skin heats the air around it. Consequently, the air right around our skin becomes warm and forms something similar to an invisible, heated “air jacket.” When wind blows, however, this warmer air around our skin gets quickly blown away and is replaced by the colder moving air of the wind. The faster the wind blows, the less of a chance we get to heat the air just around our skin. So, the colder we feel!

The National Weather Service chart to the right shows how given a “still-air” temperature and a wind velocity, you can estimate the temperature that you’re actually feeling because of the wind chill effect.

Fortunately, you can predict the temperature-dropping effects of wind chill pretty accurately by making your own “wind chill-o-meter” or, more formally, a wet-bulb thermometer. Here is what you need:

• A regular dry-bulb thermometer (e.g. mercury in glass)
• A hollow cotton shoelace
• A rubber band

INSTRUCTIONS: Cut off the plastic tip ends of the shoelace and spread apart the lace to create a narrow cotton tube. Put just the bulb of the thermometer into the tube of a shoelace, and secure it with a rubber band. Now, take the free end of the shoelace and place at least 3 in. of that end in a container of water. With the moisture contained and absorbed by the shoelace, this thermometer now models how we humans experience wind chill.

Try it out! Turn on a fan or swing your wind chill-o-meter around and notice how the temperature reading drops!

Trekking through snow is loads of fun, until you get stuck in knee-deep drifts. That can be tiring and take the fun out of winter.

But sturdy snowshoes will keep you near the top of the snow’s surface. With an adult’s help, you can build your own pair.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED

• Two pieces of 3/8-inch-thick plywood, 24 inches long by 8 inches wide
• Four pieces of 3/8-inch-thick plywood (for the bottom cleats), 6 1/2 inches long by 3/4 inches wide
• 12 3/4-inch-long round-head wood screws
• Two 1/4-inch poly-ropes, each 42 inches long
• Two 1-inch-wide strips from a tire’s inner tube
• Ripsaw
• Coping saw
• Drill and bits
• Screwdriver
• Waterproof wood glue
• Ruler
• Circle-drawing compass and pencil
• Sandpaper

WHAT YOU’LL DO

Step 1: Mark one end of a board TOE, the other HEEL. Four inches from the toe end and 2 inches from each side, draw the 4-inch by 4-inch opening for your boot toe. Drill starter holes A, B and C, using the 1/8-inch bit followed by the 1/4-inch bit (use two different sizes so the wood doesn’t split).

Step 2: With the compass set for a circle with a 2-inch-radius, draw the rounded corners at the toe end. Change the setting to 2 1/4 inches for the heel end, keeping the compass centered between sides.

Step 3: Draw a line across the board 9 inches from the heel end. Using the ruler, connect the 9-inch mark at the sides with the edge of the heel half circle you drew with the compass.

Step 4: With the ripsaw, cut along the tapered lines. Next, use the coping saw to round out the heel. Now round off the edges at the toe end.

Step 5: Remove the coping saw’s blade and insert it through A. Reconnect the blade to the frame. Following the rounded shape, cut from A to B. Turn the coping saw and cut as far as you can toward C. When you can’t cut any farther, place the saw back through A and cut to C. Then turn the saw and cut from C until you’ve joined B.

Step 6: Mark rope holes E, 1 inch from the side, and F, 3/4 inch from the side, 1 1/4 inches apart. Do the same for D and G. Drill the holes using a 1/8-inch bit, then follow with a 1/4-inch bit and a 3/8-inch bit.

Step 7: Draw the two cleat positions on the bottom, one 2 1/4 inches from the toe end and the other 10 inches from the heel end. Drill holes through the cleats with three screws.

Step 8: Spread waterproof glue on one side of each cleat, then position and screw in cleats. Sand all edges. A coat of marine spar varnish or outdoor paint is optional.

Step 9: Working from the top of the snowshoe, slip a poly-rope end down through D. Pull across and thread through E. Take it across the top and pull down through G. Then come across and up through F. Tie a square knot and whip or heat-seal the rope ends.

Step 10: Slip the inner tube around the ankle of your boot. Slide the boot under the knotted ropes until it fits snugly, tightening the knots if needed. Then pull the inner tube over the boot‘s toe, under the boot.

Remember, use a wider stance when walking. Otherwise, the shoes may overlap — and you may go flying. Lift your feet and keep the front ends tilted up.

Make sure you practice; a hiking staff will help keep your balance. Then trudge on — the snow won’t stop you now!

GEAR FOR YOUR BODY

When the temperature drops, layering is the key to staying warm and comfortable. Here’s how:

Base Layer. Also commonly known as long underwear, this layer is worn closest to your skin. Its main job is to wick away sweat and moisture so your skin stays dry. Wear it relatively tight to the skin and use only wool or synthetic base layers. Never use cotton because it will not keep you warm once it’s wet, whether from sweat or precipitation. These base layers come in various weights, from heavy for frigid conditions to lightweight for warmer temps and activities that cause a lot of sweating, such as strenuous hiking and cross-country skiing. It’s a good idea to have one extra pair of base layers to change into every night at camp.

• Cheap: REI Midweight MTS Crew Shirt and Long Underwear Bottoms ($14.93-$22.50; rei.com)
• Steep: Icebreaker Men’s 200 Lightweight Oasis Crewe and Legging ($80 each; icebreaker.com)

Insulation. This layer is worn atop the base layer and is designed to provide the majority of your insulation. It should be made of fleece, wool, down or synthetic insulation and can be a pullover, zip-up jacket or vest, depending on how much insulation you need.

• Cheap: Columbia Fast Trek II Half Zip Fleece ($45; columbia.com)
• Steep: Patagonia Nano Puff Pullover ($169; patagonia.com)

Shell. The outermost layer, the shell jacket and pants protect you from wind and wet conditions. There are two types of shells: the hard shell is a lightweight layer that’s windproof and waterproof, capable of handling heavy rain and very wet conditions; a soft shell is made of a more flexible, soft-faced material that’s windproof yet highly breathable, and water-resistant enough to protect you against everything except a heavy downpour.

• Cheap: L.L. Bean Trail Model Rain Jacket and Pants ($79 and $69; llbean.com)
• Steep: REI Centre Peak Jacket ($199; rei.com)

GEAR FOR YOUR HEAD

Hat. You’ve surely heard this before: If you’re cold, put on a hat. Just as with any exposed skin on your body, you can lose lots of heat through your bare head. So cover up with a wool or synthetic stocking cap. Those with earflaps can be especially handy. To trap the maximum body heat, pull your jacket’s hood over your head. And when the air is so cold it seems to take your breath away, try wearing something to cover your face such as a face mask, scarf, bandana, neck gaiter or balaclava (a pullover hat with a cutout for your face).

• Cheap: Cabela’s Polartec U.S. Marines Black Watch Cap ($10; cabelas.com)
• Steep: Cyclone Buff Balaclava ($39; buffusa.com)

Headlamp. During the winter, days are shorter so it’s always a good idea to carry a headlamp with you in case you need to find your way in the dark.

• Cheap: Petzl Tikkina 2 LED ($20; petzl.com)
• Steep: Princeton Tec Remix Pro ($60; princetontec.com)

GEAR FOR YOUR FEET

Waterproof boots. Nothing can cause more misery than hiking around in soggy boots. If you want to keep your feet warm, keep them dry. Invest in a pair of waterproof boots, preferably those with warm insulation and removable liners so you can dry them out each night.

• Cheap: Kamik Hunter ($45; kamik.com)
• Steep: Sorel Bear ($140; sorel.com)

Socks. Many people underestimate the value of a quality pair of socks. For cold weather, go with wool (though synthetic blend works OK, too), and consider wearing a silk or neoprene sock liner under it to wick away sweat and minimize blistering. Also, if you’re expecting to be in very wet conditions, try wearing an old plastic grocery bag between your liner sock and your wool sock as a moisture barrier. For really cold conditions, try cutting up pieces of an old foam sleeping pad to make insoles for your boots that provide added insulation from the cold ground.

• Cheap: Woolrich Heritage Boot Sock ($8; woolrich.com)
• Steep: Smartwool Mountaineering Socks ($22.95; smartwool.com)

GEAR FOR YOUR HANDS

Waterproof gloves or mittens. Start with a thin pair of wool or synthetic liner gloves, then layer them with an outer waterproof glove or mitten. Mittens are often slightly warmer because they let you share warmth between fingers, but gloves give you better dexterity.

• Cheap: POW Liner Glove ($15; powgloves.com)
• Steep: OR Revel Shell Mitts ($59; outdoorresearch.com)

GEAR FOR YOUR TUMMY

Food. When you keep your body well fueled, it acts like an internal furnace that keeps you warm. Try to eat foods packed with slow-burning calories, like nuts, cheese, peanut butter and hard sausage.

Hydration. Even though you’re not hot and sweating, cold weather can still dehydrate you quickly. So drink plenty of water on the trail. If your pee is dark yellow, then you’re not drinking enough! For really cold climates, consider carrying an insulated water bottle or hydration bladder, or keep a small canteen of water close to your body to prevent it from freezing.

GEAR FOR YOUR BOTTOM

Foam pad. This may seem silly, but always pack a small square-shape scrap of foam pad to use for a sit cushion or kneeling pad. Besides providing a layer of insulation between your body and the cold ground, the pad can also help you avoid getting wet.

SLEEP RIGHT, SLEEP TIGHT

For winter camping, your best bet is to use a layered sleeping system.

Start with your standard sleeping bag. Assuming it’s not rated for freezing temps, you can up the warmth of your bag with a silk or fleece liner and by wearing warm clothes and a stocking cap to bed. You can also fill up space in your sleeping bag (thus keeping you warmer) with other pieces of clothing. Added bonus: Your clothes will be toasty warm in the morning.

For truly cold temps, layer your sleeping bag with an overbag, basically an oversized sleeping bag that provides an extra layer of insulation that can boost the temp rating of your sleeping bag by 20 degrees or more. Next, be sure to have a single or double layer of sleeping pads to insulate you from the cold ground. It’s great to have one pad in between your sleeping bag and your overbag. Finally, camping inside a structure like a quinzee (also called a snow dome), snow cave or igloo, or a four-season tent will keep you out of the wind and weather while you sleep.

Before we even finish swallowing our holiday meals, it seems winter barges in to start blowing wind against our windows and to blanket our streets with snow. All around the country people are beginning to feel the chills of December and see their outfits get thicker and thicker as they try to shield themselves from the cold. Not only does being cold just not feel good, but it can also be dangerous to our skin, muscles, nerves, and bones. Frostbite is the end result of cold-induced injury to our tissues, and it is much more common than one may think!

Frostbite occurs by two related mechanisms. When we are exposed to very low, sub-freezing temperatures — meaning those temperatures below 0◦ Celsius or 32◦ Fahrenheit — the fluid outside and inside of our body’s cells starts to freeze. Eventually, ice crystals develop inside those cells just like they do to a roast beef stored in the freezer. The cells get directly damaged from this injury, and the body responds with an alphabet soup of “inflammatory signals” in an effort to patch things up. With time and sustained damage, the massive inflammation may further cut off the blood supply to the affected tissues, and the cells eventually begin to die in a process called necrosis.

Frostbite can be seen in varying degrees of severity:

• Frostnip is the numbing or tingling sensation that occurs when exposed to cold for a short amount of time and does not lead to any permanent damage.
• Immersion foot or trench foot is a result of prolonged exposure to the combination of wet and cold, like the environment many soldiers found themselves in during World War I, while fighting in the trenches.
• Frostbite can vary in severity depending on how deep the ice crystals form: Does the injury remain in the superficial part of the skin or does it extend deeper into the fat and muscle? The most distant parts of our body, to which blood must travel the farthest, are the ones most affected by frostbite—ears, cheeks, nose, hands and feet. Damaged skin can look differently depending on the depth of necrosis; it can be gray, yellow or blue in color, have large fluid filled blisters (called bullae), or be completely black and numb.

Certain behaviors may increase a person’s risk for developing frostbite. For example, alcohol use can lead to poor decisions in which the affected person may wear improper clothing for the cold temperatures. More importantly, alcohol makes our body believe that it is actually warmer outside than it really is, so our body tries to cool itself down — not realizing that it is increasing susceptibility to frostbite! Other risks include cigarette smoking, which damages blood vessels and decreases the amount of blood that can reach body parts most affected by the cold.

Frostbite can also occur by direct exposure to objects that are freezing cold, including ice-packs stored in a backpack, for example! That is why it is important to always put something between your skin and the icepack (like a cloth), and to limit the time spent in direct contact with an icepack to no more than 20-minutes.

There are other ways to prevent frostbite. The simplest way is to actually listen to your mom and dress warm. A professional guide to how to prepare for a cold front includes wearing an inner-most polypropylene layer that will wick moisture away from your skin, topped off by an insulating wool or fleece layer and capped with a wind, rain and snow protector like a waterproof jacket. If the clothing gets wet, change it as soon as possible so your skin is not damp for a prolonged amount of time. Of course, don’t forget to stay well hydrated and well-fed so your body has the energy to plow through the snow and wind and return home.

However, if frostbite has set-in, then you can fight back by getting to a warm place as soon as possible. Re-warming can be done by placing the affected part of the body into warm, (NOT hot!) water, or with body heat (arm pits are one of the warmest parts of our body!)

Without proper treatment frostbite can lead to permanent damage to your nerves leading to loss of sensation and movement! It can even lead to large infections which sometimes can only be cured by amputation. Thus, any sign of frostbite is a medical emergency!

As the temperatures drop below freezing in the upcoming months, just remember that frostbite is a realistic danger that can be easily prevented with some forethought and planning. A pair of warm armpits can help, too!

A. Rusty, I love it when Scouts decide to repair old camping gear rather than just throwing it out. I checked in with my friends over at Gerber Legendary Blades to find out exactly how to best fix your knife.

Here’s what you’ll need:

• Thick rubber gloves
• Mild dish detergent
• Soft sponge (or a toothbrush)
• Soft cloths
• Nylon pad
• Household lubricant (WD-40)
• Household oil (3-in-1)

CLEAN IT: While wearing your rubber gloves, wet a soft cloth with warm water and wipe down both sides of the blade.

Next, scrub the blade with a soapy sponge. To clean serrated blades, use an old toothbrush rather than a sponge. If there’s junk stuck on the blade, pour dish detergent right on the spot and let it sit for a few minutes before scrubbing again. Rinse the blade with warm water and dry with a clean cloth.

REMOVE THE RUST: Spray the blade with a lubricant like WD-40. Be sure to spray all the rusty areas and then let it sit for one minute.

Now scrub the blade with a nylon pad. Rinse the blade. Repeat with the WD-40 for any stubborn rust spots, letting the lubricant soak in for about five minutes before scrubbing.

Once you’ve removed the rust, wash your blade with warm, soapy water. Finally, dry it off and add a few drops of household oil (3-in-1) to the blade.

The plant’s association with Christmas began in Mexico, in the 1500s, where legend tells of a young girl who was too poor to provide a gift for the celebration of Jesus’ birthday. An angel appeared to the girl and inspired her to gather weeds from the roadside and place them – quite boldly! – in the very front of the church altar. From the weeds burst forth beautiful crimson “blossoms” in the form of what we now know are poinsettias, also known as Flores de Noche Buena or Flowers of the Holy Night. Franciscan friars, known for their connection to Nature, adopted the use of the plants in their Christmas celebrations. Eventually, the star-shaped leaf pattern came to symbolize the Star of Bethlehem, with the sanguine-red leaves (that’s right, they are leaves not flowers!) representing the blood sacrifice through the crucifixion of Jesus.

Somewhere between then and now, poinsettias developed a reputation for being highly toxic. In fact, 7 out of 10 Americans believe the plant to be poisonous. This could, pardon the pun, stem from the fact that most plants of the Euphorbia genus are, indeed, toxic. Additionally, the plant may have acquired its reputation in the early part of the 20th Century when the young child of a United States Army officer was alleged to have died from ingesting the leaf of the plant. It did not matter that the story was later retracted. The myth was born. And myth it is. Well, mostly.

An American Journal of Emergency Medicine study of about 23,000 cases reported zero fatalities to the American Association of Poison Control Centers. Zip. Zilch. Nada. My own personal call to California’s Poison Control Hotline confirmed this. Likewise, according to the American Medical Association’s Handbook of Poisonous and Injurious Plants, ingesting the poinsettia plant does little more than cause nausea, vomiting, and maybe some diarrhea.

Sounds like the first and only time I ate sushi in an airport!

But as a pediatrician, I should be uber-worried about kids ingesting the plant’s leaves, right? Not so fast. POISINDEX, a major source for poison control centers, says it would take a 50-pound kid eating 500 bright red leaves (called, more technically, bracts) in order to consume enough to be toxic. That would be one determined kid. Can you say, “Obsessive-compulsive?!?”

But my wife is a large animal veterinarian, and we have a black lab who eats anything and everything. Surely, I should be concerned that the poinsettia is poisonous to pets, right? Slow down, there, buddy. The American Veterinary Medicine Association (and boonDOCS’ own small animal veterinarian specialist, Ai Takeuchi-Byrne, VMD) says poinsettias are not a deadly threat to animals. California’s Poison Control confirmed only three cases of ingestion by dogs – one in which the dog ate the entire plant! – and the worst thing that happened was vomiting and diarrhea. Even the American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (ASPCA) reports that poinsettias seem to do nothing more than cause mild to moderate gastrointestinal tract irritation, which may include excessive drooling, vomiting, and diarrhea. Certainly nothing severe or fatal.

Sounds like my first and only trip to Tijuana, Mexico!

Now, as a dermatologist, I would be remiss if I did not mention that poinsettias have been known to demonstrate possible cross-reactivity with latex. That means you might not want to bring one home to someone who has a known latex allergy. Likewise, there are some reports of the plant causing chemical irritant dermatitis. In other words, do not play excessively with the plant or you might get a temporary rash that will go away on its own. Oh, the horror! The horror!

So, the point to all of this is simple: There is a lot to get anxious about at Christmas time. Poinsettia toxicity should not be at the top of your “naughty” list. That said, try to avoid the poinsettia salad at that new vegetarian place down the street – unless you want to spend the holidays on a toilet!

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year from boonDOCS!!!

Q. Dear Gear Guy, I’m going backpacking and need a first aid kit that’s small and lightweight because I don’t have a lot of room in my pack. What would you recommend?

A. Hey Matthew! Good on you for thinking ahead and packing a first-aid kit. For a small, lightweight kit, consider the Adventure Medical Kits Ultralight/Watertight .5 ($17; adventuremedicalkits.com). It weighs just 3.67 ounces and is packed inside a waterproof bag with enough medical supplies to handle minor injuries and such. Adventure Medical Kits also has lots of other options with no-nonsense first-aid kits for any activity and groups of any size. Remember, you can always build your own first-aid kit, tailoring it to exactly what you think you’ll need on your backpacking trip and store it all in a Ziploc bag. Be safe out there!

Q. Hi Gear Guy, I’m into digital photography, but so far I’ve been using my cell phone or borrowing a camera. So, I want to get one of my own. I saw the Pentax Optio WG-1 in the May 2012 issue of Boys’ Life and thought it would be perfect, but the reviews are all over the place. Some people say it’s awesome and some people say it sucks. Is it a good camera or should I look at something else?

A. Hey Douglas. Good question. And I’m glad to hear you’re researching products before making a purchase. Smart move. Here’s the thing, there’s so much information out there, it can be overwhelming. And when it comes to online reviews, even if it’s the best product in the world there will always be someone who says it’s lame. You just have to do your best to sort through the junk out there.

As for the Pentax Optio WG-1, it is indeed a good camera. That’s why we included it in the pages of Boys’ Life. I tested it over several months and think it lives up to expectations. It’s very durable, waterproof and takes good images. Can you find a camera that takes better images? Sure. Can you find one that’s more durable and Scout-proof? I’m not so sure. Here’s the deal: if you’re looking for a durable outdoorsy camera, that takes good images and is relatively affordable, I’d say the Optio is a good choice. Pentax is a trusted brand in cameras and they just came out with their 13th version of this camera, the Optio WG-2.

Yes, there are tons of more expensive, higher quality cameras out there. But remember this, Douglas, good photography doesn’t require an expensive camera. What’s way more important is the person taking the picture, the way you frame the shot, and the creativity that goes into your image.

Q. I recently bought a backpacking stove. Now I need a pot for boiling water. What is a good lightweight option?

A. Hey Chris, congrats on the new backpacking stove. As for a good lightweight pot, there are many options, but lightweight usually equals expensive. For instance, a good quality option is the Evernew Ti Ultralight Pot 1 ($42; evernewamerica.com). It can hold 600 milliliters and weighs just 3.4 ounces since it’s made of titanium. Now, if that’s a little out of your budget, consider the MSR Stowaway Pot – 475ml
($16; cascadedesigns.com/msr). This one is a bit smaller and heavier at 9.5 ounces, but it’s made of durable stainless steel and should last you for years. Depending on which stove you have, it’ll probably nest easily inside of either of these pots. Happy camping!

Biting midges can be a nuisance to campers, fishermen, hunters, hikers, gardeners, and others who spend time outdoors during early morning and evenings, and even during the daytime on still, cloudy days. They readily bite humans, but they are so small that they may look like black lint or some flecks of dirt. Consequently, the person being bitten often cannot see what is doing the biting — hence the name “no-see-ums!”

Biting midges are sometimes incorrectly referred to as “sand flies.” Sand flies are insects that belong to a different biological group and should not be confused with biting midges. Interestingly, both male and female biting midges feed on nectar; however, only the females feed on blood, which is needed for the maturation of fertilized eggs. The Culicoides genus, in particular, is known to occasionally feed on animals and humans and acts as a possible vector in the transmission of diseases such as Oropouche fever, filariasis, and Japanese encephalitis, though disease transmission to humans in North America is extremely rare.

The distribution of biting midges in the genus Culicoides is world-wide; 47 species are known to occur in Florida alone! Species belonging to the genus Leptoconops occur in the tropics, sub-tropics, the Caribbean, and some coastal areas of southeast Florida. They are often found in or around environments characterized by mud or moist soil around streams, ponds, and marshes. They fly only in the warm months of the year and are most active before and during dusk.

Bites can lead to severely itchy bumps or hives, which are the most common lesions observed with biting midge attacks. Because “no-see-um” bites may occur without known (or even suspected) contact with Culicoides, it is important to remember several clues that may help make the diagnosis of a biting midge-induced rash. First, bumps are usually found only in areas of exposed skin on the legs or forearms; such lesions tend to end abruptly at areas normally protected by clothing. Second, family members or friends may have similar lesions, usually acquired within the same time period. Third, recent travel history to areas where “no-see-ums” are known to be active can often be elicited if the time is taken to inquire.

Although the skin bite reactions are temporary, biting midge lesions often require several weeks for complete resolution to occur. Lesions can be extremely itchy and can lead to intense scratching. First aid management includes oral antihistamines and topical steroids to relieve itching and inflammation. In addition, the threshold for starting oral antibiotics should be low given the risk of bacterial super-infection secondary to scratching.

Q. Hey Gear Guy! I am moving to an 85-acre farm soon and I’m looking for a pair of boots for hiking, fishing, hunting and riding my dirt bike across the farm. What would you recommend?

A. Lucky you, Xavier! I’d love to live on an 85-acre farm! I’m guessing you want good quality and comfort, without spending a bunch. A good start would be these L.L. Bean Pathfinder Midheight Hikers ($79; llbean.com). The are nice lightweight hiking boots that are comfortable straight out of the box. If you need something that’s waterproof, which could come in handy while tromping around your farm, take a look at the L.L. Bean Waterproof Trail Model Hikers, Mid-Cut ($99). For more suggestions, check out the Guy Gear hiking boot roundup.

Q. My dad and I go fishing a lot. We used to use PowerBait but we just didn’t catch anything. So we started using mealworms and we caught much more. But the next time we went fishing and the other fishermen were saying the fish were biting the PowerBait! My dad and I love catching trout but we don’t know what bait is best for that?

A. Hello Mr. Mealworm. Thanks for the question. For this one, I’m going to defer to my buddy Justin Lucas. He’s a 23-year-old pro fisherman from Folsom, California, who fishes for Team National Guard and catches trout and bass that probably weigh as much as you do! Anyway, here’s what Justin had to say:

“That’s a good little question. Throughout most parts of the United States, Berkley PowerBait ($3.50-$10; www.berkley-fishing.com) is actually, overall, the best trout catcher there is. But, obviously there are times when live bait is going to work a lot better because it’s real. Think about it like this—On certain days you might want to eat a hamburger but someone is trying to feed you a taco and you just don’t want to eat it. Then, there are other days when you want the taco but you’re getting fed the hamburger — and you don’t want to eat that. So you just have to experiment and learn what the fish want each day. I would stick with the PowerBait and live bait like mealworms or night crawlers, but some days they just might want one or the other.

Here’s another tip to help you catch more trout: Let your bait soak more. Instead of reeling it in fast, let your bait sit there longer than the other guys — up to 10 to 20 minutes after each cast. Remember, you’re waiting for the fish to come to you rather than going after the fish.”

Slow Joe, Tampa, Fla.

We feel your pain, Slow. We have the same problem, so we asked our friend Andy Macdonald, eight-time world champion skateboarder, for the lowdown on your slow down:

“New wheels are not going to help in the least if your wheels aren’t spinning. Chances are you just have to clean and lubricate your bearings. Remove your wheel and pop out the bearings with the edge of your axle. Bones Bearings pretty much set the standard in the skateboarding world as far as bearings go. They recommend picking up a Bones Bearings Cleaner Unit at your local skate shop ($15), but a clean plastic yogurt cup and a few cotton swabs will work, too.

“You’ll need to remove the bearing shields if your bearings have them. Just poke them out with a paper clip. Then soak your bearings in acetone, nail-polish remover or rubbing alcohol. Spin them dry and make sure all the dust and dirt are out. Now you’ve removed all the dirt as well as all the lubricant from your bearings. It’s important to use a silicone-based lubricant. WD40 or others like it will dry out your bearings and attract dust and dirt. You can pick up a bottle of Bones Speed Cream at the skate shop, or try some Prolong from the auto parts store. It doesn’t take much, and the excess will just spin out when you replace your shields, pop your bearings back in your wheels and start shredding. Skate safe and enjoy your new-found speed.”

- Smelly Steve, Knoxville, Tenn.

A. Try taking a shower, Steve. No, seriously, keeping your feet clean is key. And wear only socks made of a wool and polyester blend that will wick moisture away from your feet. Powders like cornstarch and baking soda can also help keep your feet dry and less sweaty.

As for your boots, we asked Peter Sachs of LOWA Boots for some advice. Here’s what he had to say:

“Most hiking boots have removable insoles. Take those out and wash them with a mild detergent, but rinse them really well so you don’t get suds the next time you hike in the rain. Let them air dry. It’s also O.K. to fill your shoes with water and rinse them out. This will actually enhance the boot’s life by getting rid of the salts from your body’s sweat. To dry them out, stick newspaper inside. That’ll help pull moisture from the lining. Finally, borrow some dryer sheets from your mom and stuff those inside your boots overnight.”

A. Hey Anon. Good question. Interesting name. And it matches your town’s name. Strange. Anyway, you shouldn’t have any problem finding a spare reservoir for your hydration pack. Not sure what brand of hydration pack you have, but REI (rei.com) sells replacement reservoirs (aka bladders) for Osprey, Platypus and Camelbak hydration packs. Or check the website for the manufacturer of your pack. For instance, Camelbak (camelbak.com, click on accessories) sells replacement bladders for $30-$35; Hydrapak (hydrapak.com, click on reservoirs) sells theirs for $30-$37. Most new bladders come with the drinking tube included.

Q. That BioLite stove seems like a neat idea. But does it really work?

A. Hey Tyler. I’ve actually had the opportunity to test out the BioLite stove ($129, biolitestove.com) , and I think it’s a really great piece of gear. Basically it’s a mid-size camping stove that can also power your gadgets. You just toss some wood in there, light it up, and a tiny fan gets the fire really going. Then, while you cook dinner, the stove (through the miracle of science—I don’t quite understand how) converts the fire’s heat energy into electrical power so you can charge your GPS, satellite phone or camera or whatever via a USB plug right there from the stove. It’s a great stove, totally works; my only complaint would be that it’s a bit bulky and weighs about 2.25 pounds—which makes it a bit heavy for backpacking. That said, if your GPS was out of power and this thing got you un-lost then it’d be worth its weight and more!

The only problem is this: While the other sports that I listed have been around for many years, Ultimate is a fairly recent sport. You can ask practically anyone about what type of gear you need for baseball or football. But nobody knows anything about ultimate. There is no one to tell you what type of shoes to get or what type of disc to use.

Could you please do something on Ultimate Frisbee?
– Jumpin’ John, Kennesaw, Ga.

A. Hey John. Thanks for the note. Ultimate is a really fun game! And it involves lots of elements of other popular team sports like basketball, soccer and football. One of the best parts about Ultimate is that it requires very little gear. All you need to play is a 175-gram plastic flying disc like the Discraft 175 gram Ultra-Star ($10; discraft.com). Beyond that, many guys who are serious about the game wear soccer-style cleats or turf shoes, long soccer-style socks and moisture-wicking shorts and tops like the Under Armour Heat Gear Long Sleeve Compression T-Shirt ($35; underarmour.com), which helps keep your muscles warm and protects your arms when diving for the disc.

Q. Hey Gear Guy, I love rock climbing a lot! But I don’t have my own gear. I want good quality gear but would like it at the cheapest price. I was wondering what brand I should buy and where I should buy it?

A. Good to hear from you, Andrew. And great to know you’re stoked on climbing. First off, you might want to read my Rock Climbing Buyer’s Guide, which details the basic gear you’ll need, plus some specific product suggestions. You’re smart to look for quality gear, as your safety up on the rock depends on whether your gear works or not. And, for that same reason, you should generally avoid buying used climbing equipment. A few good brands to consider are Petzl, Black Diamond, Metolius, Mammut and Arc’teryx. As for where to shop, try you local outfitter shop or a reputable online retailer like rei.com or backcountry.com.

Q. What’s better: a hiking shoe or a hiking boot?

A. It depends. If you’re headed out on a basic day hike, hiking shoes are a great choice. In general, they’ll be more comfortable because they are lighter and more flexible and breathable, yet you’ll still have more traction than you’d get from running shoes.

If you’re going on a backpacking trip over rugged backcountry trails while carrying a fully loaded pack, then you’ll want to be wearing sturdy hiking boots. Boots give your feet and ankles the protection and support that will prevent you from injuring your feet and rolling your ankles on rough and uneven trails.

It’s powered by three AAA batteries, which give you about 60 hours of light on the lowest setting. The H7 has a focusable beam (wide angle or small and tight), but by far my favorite feature is a sliding dimmer switch mounted on the battery pack on the backside of the headstrap. Just move it back and forth, and the light gets brighter or dimmer so you dial in exactly the amount of light you need. That’s a bright idea, if you ask me!

Q. How do I keep my clothes dry whenever I am in the water?

A. Dude, don’t wear your clothes in the water! Now, if you’re talking about keeping the clothes inside your pack dry while you’re on a canoe outing or some such, a dry bag is what you need. These waterproof bags usually have a roll-top closure that will keep the stuff inside dry even if they’re floating down the river. Most dry bags range from about $10 to $75 depending on size, thickness and durability. Look for quality dry bags from brands like Sea to Summit and SealLine.

Do you recommend a propane-canister or liquid-fuel backpacking stove? I’ve heard good things about both, and I’m unsure about which one I should bring to Philmont Scout Ranch.

A. Good question. Problem is, there’s no easy answer. You’re right, there are benefits to each. Liquid-fuel stoves burn hot, are reliable, work well at elevation and in colder weather, and the fuel is more affordable and goes a long way. But the stoves are also more expensive and require regular cleaning and maintenance. Canister stoves are easy to use and generally more affordable, but are also less efficient, the fuel is more expensive, and they are not as reliable in very cold weather. Since you’ll likely be cooking as a crew at Philmont, I’d say sharing a reliable liquid-fuel stove with your fellow Scouts and packing a couple of fuel bottles is probably the best solution.

This series teaches you about the basic first aid of fishhooks and how to know when an injury requires more serious medical attention.  We also teach three specific techniques for removing fishhooks from the skin.  All in all, we hope this “schools” you in the art of fishhook injuries and “catches” you up on your fishhook first aid!

Q. Dear Gear Guy, Whenever I get a new pair of shoes the stuffing in the backside of the ankle goes away. I just got a new pair of boots about a month ago, and it’s already happened. Why is that? I have no idea. Please help?

A. Hey William, interesting question. Do you have a puppy that likes to eat shoes? If not, I can’t be sure what’s happening. But I do have an idea: I used to be really lazy about pulling on and off my shoes. Instead of untying them first, I’d just slam my foot in there and wriggle my ankle around until I got the shoe all the way on. It seemed easier because I didn’t have to worry with tying and retying my shoes. But looking back, that lazy method actually took longer AND it took a toll on my shoes. Specifically, it smashed down the heel counter and wore down the padding in the upper heel of my shoes — just like yours. Pay attention next time you’re putting on your shoes. Maybe you’re being a little too lazy just like I was?

Q. I like to go small-boat sailing. I think that it is fun and educational. What kind of boat do you recommend for use on a lake?

A. Hey Noah, sailing is indeed fun. I grew up sailing on lakes, too, and have great memories of my summers at a local sailing camp. As far as boats for beginners go, you can’t really beat the Sunfish ($4,265; laserperformance.com). It’s a classic small boat that’s easy to sail and you can find them used for around $750. If you’re interested in learning to race, the Optimist ($2,785; laserperformance.com) is a good choice. It’s short and stubby but is one of the most popular racing sailboats for young people and you can find used Optis for as low as $500.

Q. Hi Gear Guy, I like skateboarding. I think it is fun. Do you have a skateboard? If you do, is it a longboard or a regular board? I live in Indiana; where could I get an inexpensive longboard? Thanks for your time.

A. Hey Freddy. Thanks for the question. I do have a couple skateboards — and one of them is a longboard, made by Sector Nine (sector9.com). Most complete longboards (that means with wheels, trucks, deck, etc. — ready to ride) will cost you at least about $130. But if you’re looking for an inexpensive longboard, check out Blankdecks.com. That website specializes in selling blank skateboard decks. No graphics or paint, just plain wood, and it saves you a bunch of money. Plus you can just draw your own graphics or throw a couple stickers on the deck. Their Level 1 Longboard Complete ($74; blankdecks.com) is the best deal. Happy shredding!

Using a mouthguard can prevent injury to your tongue, lips, face and jaw. Guys who wear braces should be particularly careful to protect their mouths.

Mouthguards are especially crucial during contact sports such as football, hockey or boxing, where blows to the body and face are regular occurrences. But even non-contact sports, such as gymnastics, skating or biking – pose a risk to your teeth.

A quick trip to your dentist can help you choose a mouthguard that’s right for your mouth. There are three basic types:

Stock Mouthguards. Can usually be bought wherever sporting equipment is sold. Most dentists do not recommend them because they cannot be adjusted to your mouth and provide only limited protection.

Boil-and-Bite Mouthguards. Boil-and-Bite guards are softened with hot water and then molded over your child’s teeth. This somewhat-custom fit leads to better protection and greater ease in talking and breathing. These are also available at most sporting goods stores.

Custom Mouthguards. Your dentist can create a custom mouthguard designed specifically for your child’s teeth. These offer the best fit, comfort and protection, but might be more costly than store-bought varieties.

Q. Hey Gear Guy, which devices (other than a traditional whetstone) can I use to sharpen my knife? How well do they work?

A. There are many types of sharpeners. To help you wade through it all, I contacted a friend at Gerber Legendary Blades. They make some of the best knives and know more than a little about sharpening blades. Here are the tree main types of sharpeners:

Diamond-coated rod sharpeners (work with fine or serrated blades). This one is most similar to a whetstone.

Pros: lower cost.

Cons: takes more time, tough to maintain the correct angle while sharpening.

Ceramic pocket sharpeners (work only with fine-edge blades).

Pros: lightweight, easy to carry, low cost, quick and easy to use

Cons: will create just an average edge and cannot sharpen serrated blades

Diamond fingers sharpeners (work with fine or serrated blades).

Pros: quick, easy to use, can sharpen a variety of angles and create sharper edge

Cons: more expensive

Check out this video from my show on Outdoor Channel to learn more about managing blisters and preventing them in the first place!

That’s a great question, and many guys out there are wondering the exact same thing.

Tinea pedis, or athlete’s foot as it is more commonly known, is a fungal infection of the foot. It is more common in athletes, which is how it got its name, but anyone can get it. The infection most commonly occurs on the skin between the toes, but it may also be found along the instep or lateral aspect of the foot — the so called “moccasin” distribution. Prevention and aggressive treatment are crucial to managing athlete’s foot infection.

Check out the following video from the boonDOCS show, on Outdoor Channel, for more information on how to keep your feet footloose and fungus free!

Q. I’d like to buy a mountain skateboard. What kind of board would you recommend for me?

A. Skateboarding down mountain trails? Love it. Get an entry-level board from MBS Mountainboards (mbs.com). They’ve been dedicated to the sport for a long time and make good boards. I did a quick check online and you can still get the basic MBS Atom 80 Mountainboard for $130, which should be a great board to learn on. You’ll pay about $30 more for the Atom 80x (comes with a hand-held V-brake), which will be very handy for running the steep stuff!

Q. Hello Gear Guy, I just got a new tent. What can I do to make sure it lasts me the longest amount of time possible?

A. Way to plan for the future, David. Caring for your gear is one of the most important things you can do. And if you treat your stuff well, most quality gear should last you for a decade or more. I still regularly use my 15-year-old tent. To bring you the best tent care tips I recently hooked up with some expert friends from REI (www.rei.com) and here’s what we came up with:

• Seam sealing. I’m not sure which tent you have, but these days most every tent comes with their floor seams and rainflys factory sealed for waterproofness. If you know for a fact your tent seams aren’t sealed then you’re going to want to do that ASAP with a product like McNett’s Seam Grip ($7.35; www.rei.com).

• Perfect pitching. When pitching your tent, use a ground cloth to avoid anything that might rip or poke a hole in your tent’s floor. Don’t snap your tent poles together because that can damage the fittings and weaken the poles. Instead, put the poles together one section at a time. When taking them down, start by breaking the pole down in the middle as it puts less stress on the poles. If your campsite is in the bright sunshine, leave the rainfly on during the day. The sun’s rays can breakdown the tent’s fabric over time but the fly (with its waterproof coating) is more durable to sun exposure.

• Be clean. After each outing, inspect your tent for damage and clean it when it’s dirty. Just spot clean it using a simple sponge with cold water and non-detergent soap (don’t use dishwashing liquid, bleach, stain sticks, etc).

• Smart storage. Never put your tent away wet. Sure, if you’re camping and it rains you have to pack it away wet, but as soon as you get home make sure to thoroughly dry it out. If you don’t, smelly fabric-destroying mildew will take over.

Q: What are red bugs and how do you treat them?

A: Red bugs, chiggers, berry bugs, scrub-itch mites and harvest mites are all terms used to describe members of the family of insects known as Trombiculidae. These reddish-orange mites can be found worldwide, but they really enjoy hanging out in damp, grassy and wooded areas, especially at the edges of forests. In the United States, chiggers are mostly found in the southeast, south and midwest. They are most active from early spring to early autumn, until the first frost.

Chigger larvae might infest humans by crawling up our shoes and legs as we make our way through the scrub. What’s kind of cool is that they do not actually bite us. Likewise, they do not burrow into our skin, and they do not suck our blood. Instead, chiggers use their mouths to drill tiny holes into our skin through which they secrete specialized salivary enzymes designed to break down our skin cells from the inside. Then, they slurp up the mixture through a tube formed by hardened skin cells called a stylosome. Basically, it’s like drinking a big “YOU” protein shake!

Your skin does not take too kindly to all of this drilling and parasitic digestion. Consequently, humans typically develop intensely itchy, bright red pimple-like bumps or hives or a generalized skin rash in the areas where the mites were attached, even up to 24 to 48 hours after exposure. Chiggers prefer to attach to skin at areas where the clothing fits tightly against the body, such as at the tops of socks or around the elastic edges of underwear, so a rash in these areas may be a clue to the specific cause.

So, what can you do for a chigger rash? First, forget the old myth of applying fingernail polish to the affected areas. Chiggers do NOT burrow into the skin, so trying to suffocate the mites with polish makes no sense at all. Second, chiggers do not lay eggs in the skin, so stop worrying about that.

Chigger wounds are a complex mixture of mechanical damage to the skin (the drilling), enzymatic disruption of the skin (the digestion), and your body’s own attempt to get rid of the parasite. Consequently, the most important thing to do is to prevent chigger infestation. Avoid camping in warm, moist temperate climates of high mammal density, including livestock pastures, natural parks and preserves.

If the area is infested, get out of there quickly and wash your skin vigorously with soap and water. Itching is best alleviated through the use of topical corticosteroids (either over-the-counter hydrocortisone 1% ointment or prescription strength from your physician) and anti-histamines like Benadryl. Watch out for severe rashes that can become secondarily infected with bacteria; in these cases, consult a doctor immediately.

Now you know a “mitey” bit more about chiggers than you did before!

Q. Dear Gear Guy, I’m going on a Bluenose camping trip and was having trouble finding the right gear. What are some good brands for warm clothes that are also affordable?

A. Gotta love those Bluenose trips! I definitely dig winter camping. OK, affordable cold-weather clothing brands? In my experience, your best bet for quality yet affordable outerwear is to look at the “house brands” of outfitters like REI (rei.com), L.L. Bean (llbean.com) and Cabela’s (cabelas.com). Those big outfitters often manufacture their own branded gear that uses the same high-quality fabrics and insulations as the big brands but for way lower prices. Columbia (columbia.com) makes some pretty affordable warm clothing, too. Stay warm, Thomas!

Q: I get a blotchy rash on my chest and back in the summer that my doctor told me is something called “Tinea Versicolor.” What causes that and how can I treat it?

A: Tinea Versicolor (TV) is a common rash that affects up to 10 percent of all teenagers. The rash is usually most notable in areas where you sweat the most; typically, it may start on the back and spread slowly to your chest, abdomen, shoulders and neck. It usually gets noticed in the summer because the spots make your normal skin look “blotchy.”

TV is caused by a yeast-like organism called Malassezia that is part of your normal skin flora, and infection is limited to the uppermost portion of the skin. The name versicolor itself means “several colors,” a fact that is reflected in the range of colors (from white to red to brown) assumed by the organism on your skin.

TV occurs worldwide and is more frequently seen in areas with higher temperatures and higher relative humidity. It also tends to run in families. The exact number of people affected by TV is difficult to predict because many affected individuals might not seek medical attention. The rate of infection appears to be the same across all races and genders.

Your doctor might make the diagnosis of TV based on the characteristic rash. It might also help to look at some skin scrapings under the microscope, which may reveal a characteristic “ziti and meatballs” pattern, representing short fungal hyphae and big, round spores in clusters.

Treatment is straightforward, with education forming the keystone of any management plan. Patients need to understand that TV might recur and that skin pigment changes might take months to revert to normal; sun avoidance/protection is the best way to minimize contrast between affected and normal skin.

Over-the-counter topical preparations are usually very effective. Selenium sulfide shampoos or lotions (like Selsun Blue or Extra-Strength Head and Shoulders) are inexpensive and readily available. Typically, they are applied to affected areas of the skin for about 5 to 10 minutes and then washed off completely; this process is repeated once a day for about 2 weeks. To keep the rash from coming back, repeat this process every other week or during the first week of each month. For more difficult cases, your doctor may choose to use prescription strength medications.

Q: What do you do for a knife cut?

A: Great question! Truth is, the answer to your question is probably more about what you do NOT do with a knife cut, and you’ll see why…

Accidental knife cuts — called lacerations — are rarely life threatening. So the goals in the backcountry are to:

• Minimize infection
• Promote healing
• Decrease the need for evacuation

The first thing you should do with any laceration is calm the victim and, when possible, elevate the injured part of the body as much as possible above the victim’s heart. Protect yourself by wearing non-permeable first-aid gloves and good eye protection.

Next, stop the bleeding. This is best accomplished by applying direct and constant pressure to the wound using a wadded sterile compress, cloth, or — if need be — direct hand-to-wound contact (that’s why you “gloved up”). Hold pressure for a full 10 to 15 minutes. If you sneak a peek and still see bleeding, then the clock resets and you bought yourself another 10 to 15 minutes. Try at least 2 full rounds of direct pressure before considering a pressure bandage, tourniquet or other more extreme measures.

With the bleeding stopped, take a closer look at the injury. Check the pulses in the area of the wound; they should be strong and regular. The surrounding tissue should be warm and pink. There should be no loss of sensation, and motor function should be fully intact. In general, any differences that are noted when compared to the uninjured side of the body suggest the possibility of a more serious injury. In these cases, immediate medical attention by healthcare professionals should be the top priority.

Now, you have to clean the wound to prevent infection. An old saying in surgery goes, “The solution to pollution is dilution.” For minor wounds in the backcountry setting, this means washing away the dirt and bacteria from within the wound itself. Use the cleanest disinfected liquid available. The best irrigants are normal saline, disinfected water or fresh tap water. Avoid using povidone iodine (Betadine), rubbing alcohol, and hydrogen peroxide, which can cause further tissue damage.

The irrigation stream has to have enough force behind it to dislodge any foreign material without injuring the tissue underneath, and you have to be careful not to jam harmful material deeper into the wound. The goal is not to soak the wound but to clean it thoroughly. Try to use at least 1 liter of irrigation fluid to clean each wound.

When possible, bandage a laceration with a dressing that does not stick to the wound. Non-adherent dressings include Telfa, Xeroform, Adaptic and Aquaphor. You can apply an antiseptic ointment such as bacitracin to the surface of the wound before bandaging if you have it. When bandaging, be careful to allow for continued assessment of vital signs and function.

Be sure to keep up-to-date on your tetanus shots before you embark on a trip into the wilderness, and always seek professional medical attention as soon as possible!

A. Hi, Knotless. I’d say the answer is the Trucker’s Hitch. I learned this knot when I was a whitewater river guide. We used it to tie down huge stacks of rubber rafts on top of our trailers. And over the years, I’ve used it countless times on my outdoor adventures. It’s the easiest, most handy knot on the planet. It’s highly adjustable, capable of piano string-tightness and ideal for everything from tying a kayak on a roof rack to pitching a tent or stringing up a hammock.

Here’s how you do it:

1. Tie a loop in one end of the rope. Slip the other end of the rope through the tie-down point and then through that loop.

2. Next, make a quick-release loop (called a bight) above that tie-down point. To do this, grab the rope in your left hand and twist it clockwise two times, then pull the slack through to tighten the loop.

3. Thread the loose end of the rope through the opposite tie-down point.

4. Now, feed the loose end through the quick-release loop you just made and pull to tighten.

5. Once you have it as tight as you like, clamp down on the loop with your thumb and forefinger.

6. Pull a section of that rope back through and tighten.

7. Voila.

8. Tug on the loose piece of rope to easily undo the whole package. Or, to lock it in place, tie a bight in the line.

Q: Doc, I sometimes get a breakout of acne right where my bike helmet rubs against my chin. Is that normal? What can I do about it?

A: Congratulations on wearing your bike helmet! It shows you are really using your head out there!

Acne in teenagers is nearly universal. About 90 percent of all teens in the United States get some amount of acne. What you are describing is called “acne mechanica.” This is a specific situation where mechanical irritation, heat, pressure and occlusion of the skin by some outside material causes acne. This condition might be seen in anyone who wears a helmet with a chin strap (for example, horseback riders or bicyclists) or in people who play sports that require the use of shoulder pads (e.g., football or hockey) or headbands (tennis, anyone?). Backpackers and golfers are also prone to getting it on their backs in the areas where their straps rub against the skin.

Let your doctor know what is going, because he or she will want to make sure that you do not have an allergy or a skin infection in the area. If the diagnosis is acne mechanica, then the good news is that it may be treated exactly the same as regular acne except for one difference: You have to try to stop the rubbing and irritation as much as possible.

Q. How do I properly store and care for my camping equipment?

A. Well, Zach, if you’re like most guys I know, I’m sure the last thing you want to do when you get back from an outing is worry about cleaning and storing your gear. But if you don’t take care of your stuff, it won’t work properly later and could easily get ruined.

First off, never put your gear away when it’s dirty or wet. Clean the mud, dirt, sand, etc. off and, even more important, let it have enough to time to dry and air out before you pack it away. Organize your gear in sealable plastic tubs or cardboard boxes and keep it all in a cool, dry place. I keep my stuff in a shed with a dehumidifier constantly running to keep the wetness away.

A few specifics:

• Tent: Set it up in the backyard when you get home. Make sure everything is dry, because a tent packed away wet can quickly mold, mildew and rot. Clean the dirt or sand off tent stakes and poles.
• Sleeping bag: Air it out and then hang it up on a hanger in a closet or lay it out flat under the bed. Don’t store a sleeping bag long term inside its stuff sack because that can screw up the insulation inside.
• Electronics: For long-term storage of flashlights, headlamps, GPS, etc., always remove the batteries to prevent corrosion or leakage. Then store your batteries in a sealed plastic bag nearby.
• Cooking gear: Make sure your pots, pans, utensils and stove are all clean. Stray food drippings and crumbs will eventually attract insects and rodents.

A: Soccer is one of the most popular sports in the world, but “shin guard dermatitis” is pretty rare. There is some debate if the rash you describe is caused by an allergy to some specific components of the shin guards themselves or from direct irritation to the skin from sweat and friction. It might be a combination of factors!

The rule of thumb — or should I say “rule of shins” — is to try to limit your exposure to the shin guards as much as possible. That means wearing them only during the game and taking them off as quickly as possible. You can even wrap your shin guards in duct tape to make sure that they do not touch your skin. Your doctor might prescribe a topical medication that can help decrease inflammation, but know that the rash could return each time your skin is re-exposed.

A. Well, Theo, it depends on what sort of camping you have planned. If you’ll be car camping, a duffel bag is the better choice since it has just one large compartment for easily stuffing things inside — think of it as a mobile closet for all your gear. On the other hand, if you’ll be backpacking (hiking miles to a backcountry campsite), a traditional backpack is definitely the better choice. Although some duffels do have shoulder straps, they aren’t designed to carry loads comfortably for long distances the way an internal- or external-frame backpack is.

Q. We were on day two of a six-day backpacking trip when my buddy badly sliced the tip of his finger. The injury probably needed stitches, but we were a two-day walk from the trailhead. I know we were supposed to be prepared, and we got him bandaged up pretty well, but I know we could have done more. What, Gear Guy, would you have done?

A. I’ve got just the thing — and I’ve done this twice in the field (once for myself, once for a friend). It works great. First, make sure the bleeding has stopped, keeping pressure on the area until it does stop. Clean the wound. If you are sure the injured person has no allergies to antibiotics, put a bit of antibiotic ointment like Bacitracin on the wound, then place a standard bandage atop the slice. Next, cut the finger off a latex doctor’s glove (the kind that should be in your first-aid kit). Carefully pull it over the injured finger, then wrap the base several times with duct tape (this should be in your first-aid kit, too).

Now you have a waterproof bandage that enables the injured guy to still use his hands while keeping the injury clean. Take the bandage off each night to let the area air out, or whenever it needs changing, then clean the wound again and reapply the ointment and bandage the next morning.

Q: What is it about poison ivy that makes it cause such a bad rash?

A: Poison ivy, poison oak, and poison sumac are a group of related plants responsible for causing the most common “allergic reaction” in humans. Technically, the plants are not to blame. Rather, the agent responsible for the allergic reaction is the plants’ resin, urushiol, which in its natural state is a colorless oil that turns black when exposed to air (via an oxidation reaction).

The resin is not found on the surface of the leaves. Rather, it is found in the resin canals of leaves, stems, vines, berries, and roots of these plants. Why is this important? Because the plant parts containing the resin have to be injured enough so that they leak the resin. Then, you have to contact the resin directly.

Some good news: Dried leaves are less toxic because the resin has returned to the stem and roots through the resin canals.

Some bad news: Leaves are more fragile in the springtime – exactly when most people are “itching to go outdoors!”

Sensitivity to the resin varies from person to person, but you can become allergic to poison ivy, oak, or sumac at any age. Your risk for becoming sensitive to the resin actually increases with each exposure to it.

Some more good news: You have up to about 10 minutes after touching the resin to wash it off and, possibly, avoid a reaction.

Some more bad news: If you are too late, your skin will start to itch and turn red a few hours to a few days in the areas that contacted the resin. Eventually, the skin may swell and blister and may even weep and ooze.

An important clue that poison ivy, oak, or sumac caused the rash is the fact that it will often appear “in a line” on the skin, corresponding to where the resin rubbed against it! Some cases on the face have caused such bad swelling that people’s eyes have been swollen shut! Eventually, the rash begins to dry up in about 1 to 2 weeks. Sometimes, you will even see black dots in the skin corresponding to where the urushiol oxidized and turned black!

The resin from poison ivy, oak, or sumac can hang around for a pretty long time and can be spread from things like pet fur, clothing, tents, bike tires, walking sticks, etc.. Another very dangerous way of contacting the resin is through the smoke from burning poison ivy, oak, or sumac plants; the smoke particles can carry residual resin onto the skin and into the nose, mouth, throat and lungs, causing respiratory distress – a major medical emergency!

A:  Let’s face it:  Ticks are no fun.  You might even say, “They really bite!”  The mouthparts on these little critters are barbed, so once they get a good bite, they are tough to remove.  Some ticks even secrete a cement-like material that helps them to adhere to the skin better.  Now, that’s a sticky situation!

Laboratory studies have shown that in Lyme disease, for example, the longer a tick is attached to the skin, the greater the risk of transmission of the disease.  The good news is that some ticks can be on human skin for 1 to 2 hours before attachment even takes place.  For this reason, close and regular inspection of ALL BODY PARTS should be performed when traveling in tick-infested areas.  Protective clothing (for example, long pants cinched at the ankles or tucked into boots or socks) is also helpful for keeping ticks off your skin.  Spraying clothes with an insect repellent may also provide some additional protection. Any loose ticks can be removed with duct tape or the edge of a credit card.

If you find an attached tick, however, get ready to remove it as soon as possible. Why the sense of urgency? Because quick and correct removal of attached ticks — ideally, within 24 hours of attachment! — can greatly reduce the likelihood of disease transmission from tick to human.

Know that improper removal of a tick can lead to a “host” of problems (blood-sucking joke fully intended!).  You see, any tick parts left behind in the skin can lead to a foreign body reaction in which your body’s own immune system revs up and tries to fight off the intruding tick parts.  The problem, here, is that the inflammation that follows can allow for infections to set-in more easily.

So, here is a great way to remove an attached tick safely, directly, and effectively:

1.  Always start by washing your hands.

2.  “Glove-up” if possible.  Don’t worry, though, because you will not be touching the tick directly.  Doing so might allow the tick to bite you — duh!

3.  Get a quality pair of fine-tipped forceps.  Don’t waste your money on expensive tick-removal kits.  A good pair of forceps does an excellent job and comes in handy for other medical emergencies, as well.

4.  With your forceps, grab the attached tick as close to the skin (i.e., as far up on the tick’s head) as possible.

5.  Gently pull the tick out counter to the direction that the mouth parts entered the skin.  In other words, back the tick out in reverse!  Use a steady, constant motion, and move in a straight line, being careful not to twist, jerk, or turn the forceps.  Also, be careful not to squeeze the tick’s body too much because doing so might squeeze tick guts and contents all over the area.  Yuck!

6.  Once you remove it, consider saving the tick in a sealable container for identification purposes.

7.  Next, cleanse the skin with an antiseptic or soap and water.  You can also apply an antibiotic ointment if you have one.

8.  Wash your hands and go about the rest of your day.

Avoid using “home remedy” methods of tick removal, such as rubbing fingernail polish or vaseline petrolatum, using rubbing alcohol, or applying a hot extinguished match directly to the tick.  In general, these methods do not result in tick detachment.  More importantly, some of these methods may actually induce the tick to salivate (drool!) or regurgitate (puke!) into the wound.  Double yuck!

Now, get out there and remove some ticks!

Q:  Should I pop a blister and, if so, is there a “best” way to do it?

A:  Ideally, you want to prevent blisters from happening in the first place.  The next best thing is to try to leave good skin intact because it is the best “bio-dressing” you could possibly ever have.

Sometimes these options are not possible, and the blister may get so painful that it interferes with your ability to function (e.g., walking, gripping a canoe paddle, skiing, etc.).  Repetitive trauma to the affected skin can also cause the blister to get larger.  When this happens you have to consider taking matters into your own hands – so to speak:

1.  First, wash your hands and “glove-up” if possible.

2.  Next, clean the area to be treated with an antiseptic, soap and water, or whatever you have that works.

3.  Sterilize a pin with flame or rubbing alcohol (remember that rubbing alcohol is flammable, so be careful!).

4.  You want to leave as much of the skin intact as possible, so avoid piercing the blister from the top.  Instead, insert the pin into the side of the blister.

5.  With the blister “popped,” take some gauze and gently push down on the blister to help squeeze out the fluid.

6.  Now, make sure the area is clean.  Bandage up the area as best as possible and pile on the protective padding.   Make every attempt to minimize further injury to the area.  Keep it clean and try to rest it for as long as possible.

7.  Tylenol or Motrin can help with pain. Note: You’ll need parental consent to take medication at a Scout event.

You should be pain-free and back at the backcountry in no time!

For more information check out the following video on Blister Prevention and Management from our Outdoor Channel show:

Please use the form below to submit your question.

Q. I’ve heard of sleeping bags that have arms and legs, so you can move around in them. Are these bags worth it?

A. Ah, wearable sleeping bags. It’s an idea that’s been around for a while and is used by some mountaineers and ultralight backpackers who are trying to save pack weight. Basically the idea is that one of these wearable bags can do double duty as both a sleeping bag and an insulative layer for wearing around camp (instead of a down jacket and pants). Most have warm sleeves and a hood with either built-in feet or an open footbox so you can more easily walk around camp. When you’re ready for bed, just lay down on your mat, pull your sleeves inside the bag and you’ll be toasty warm. One of the nicer, more popular wearable bags is the Nunatak Raku ($574 and up; nunatakusa.com).

Now, are they worth it? That depends. I think these wearable sleeping bags definitely have their place. But for the average guy who wants to save pack weight while cold-weather camping, I think he’d be better served dressing in traditional warm layers and wearing those to sleep inside a lighter-weight sleeping bag. Wearable sleeping bags while warm, can be very expensive, and tricky to wear while doing camp chores. You also have to be careful not to get too close to a campfire (it could catch fire or melt!) and don’t spill that camp meal in your lap or you’ll be sleeping in it!

Q. I am a Scout from New Zealand, and we struggle with keeping our Scout group’s canvas tents waterproof — they are pretty old. How can we make them waterproof?

A. Good question, Elliot. And you probably win the award for the most far-flung Gear Guy questioner ever. New Zealand? Awesome! O.K., waterproofing a canvas tent. There are several waterproofing products you can use, but one of the best is Canvak ($35 USD for 1 gallon; cabelas.com). Buy a couple gallons of that stuff, and use a pump sprayer (like what you might use to treat weeds or an old Windex bottle) and spray the Canvak all over the outside of your tents. Beware: the smell is pretty strong, so you’ll want to have several days to let your tents air out before sleeping inside them.

The Scouts of Troop 433 in Minot, N.D., don’t learn about cold-weather camping by talking or reading about it.

They live it.

The high temperature in Minot from November to April is anywhere from 36 degrees to 3 degrees.

If these Scouts didn’t go outdoors in the cold, they wouldn’t go outdoors at all except for maybe a few months in the summer.

“It’s our weather for half the year,” says 17-year-old Life Scout Austin Westmeyer. “We don’t let it hold us back.”

When these guys — almost all of them natives of North Dakota — aren’t getting up before sunrise to go ice fishing, they’re skiing, snowshoeing, digging snow caves, or practicing to see who can build a fire and boil water the fastest.

DRESS FOR SUCCESS

“The cold really doesn’t matter if you dress warmly,” says 17-year-old Life Scout James Drawz.

James and the rest of his troop wear layers: long underwear, snow pants, sweaters, jackets, hats and gloves.

Because they spend so much time outdoors in cold weather, they spend a lot of time preparing for the worst. They polish their winter survival skills every year during their Klondike derby.

The 5-mile course tests their ability to build an emergency shelter, cross a gorge with a sled full of gear, build a fire and boil water.

Scouts also practice winter first-aid, from treating hypothermia to building a travois to moving an injured person to a place where he can get medical treatment.

They also practice rescuing someone who has fallen through the ice.

“You never, ever go out on the ice to assist the other person,” Austin says. “It puts you at risk of falling through.”

Instead, Scouts practice getting a rope to the person who is in trouble and using it to pull them out.

SLEEPING IN SNOW

Austin has twice tried to earn his Zero Hero award — sleeping outside overnight when the temperature drops below zero degrees.

Even though the temperature didn’t drop below zero either time, Austin learned a lot about sleeping outdoors in the cold.

The first time, Austin set up a tent over a bed of straw.

“Most tents don’t have a solid waterproof bottom, and your body heat will melt the snow,” Austin explains. “The straw keeps you warm.”

The next time, he and some of his fellow Scouts covered a huge box with snow, then carved out a door and air holes. They put down straw and blankets to keep their sleeping bags dry.

“Sleeping in something made of snow was really cool,” Austin says. “You can sleep in a tent whenever.”

LIVE AND LEARN

Sometimes, the Scouts of Troop 433 make mistakes just like the rest of us.

One time, James tried to go ice fishing in blue jeans. He still had plenty of layers on. What harm, he thought, could come from a little cotton? He quickly realized the error of his way.

“Sometimes the water creeps out of the (fishing) holes and gets on the ice,” he says. “I got my jeans wet. That will happen in snow, too, because your body will melt it.”

James and other Scouts also recommend bringing spare dry clothing and extra gloves. After all, it’s easy to get wet when you are adventuring in the snow.

One frigid day last winter, Travis Patterson was ice fishing at Lake Darling, 40 miles south of the Canadian border. When he finally saw the fishing bobber move, he hauled his line out of the ice.

A foot-and-a-half-long northern pike flopped off the hook.

Travis tackled the fish and instantly learned why these fish are nicknamed snot rockets.

“I got slime all over me,” says Travis. “Don’t wear your best clothes ice fishing.”

Last summer, just months after their visit from a Boys’ Life photographer, record flooding on the Souris River caused major damage to the homes of more than 40 Scouting families in the Minot, N.D., area.

In addition, three of the seven Scout troops in Minot have had to find new places to hold weekly meetings because of flood damage to the churches where they met.

Summer day camps were postponed and the Fall Camporee was canceled.

The Big 4 Boy Scout Camp, which sits along the Souris River about two miles west of Minot, was flooded from early April to early August. Most of the buildings at the camp had up to six feet of water from the overflowing river.

Several picnic tables were washed downriver. Tools and equipment stored at the camp were ruined.

The Big 4 camp has been used year-round for weekend campouts. It also was the summer meeting place for Troop 433.

Groups of Boy Scouts from throughout North Dakota have been assisting the Minot Scouts since the flooding.

Click here for information on how you can help.

Q. Hi Mr. Gear Guy. I saw a sleeping bag in Boys’ Life. It is called Cub Scout lightweight bag and says Cub Scouts on the actual sleeping bag. Where can I purchase that bag? Thanks!

A. Hey Mrs. Mom. That’s an easy one. It’s called the Cub Scout Lightweight Sleeping Bag and it’s $39.99 on ScoutStuff.org. Here’s the link:
http://www.scoutstuff.org/bag-sleep-cs-30-degree.html

Q. I have a 45-degree Lafuma mummy sleeping bag and a 15-degree liner to go with it, so it becomes a 30-degree bag. My dad says I’ll be fine in the cold, but I’m not so sure. It gets pretty cold in the tri-state area. What do you think I should do?

A. I think you should give it a shot. Sleep a couple nights out in your bag and find out if it keeps you warm enough. If you’re worried, pitch a tent in the backyard so you’ll be close to home if you do get totally chilled. That said, here are some ways to stay warm inside your sleeping bag: (1) be sure to use a sleeping pad because that will help insulate you from the cold ground, which will quickly suck heat from your body; (2) consider sleeping in warm clothes, like a set of long underwear and wool socks. Also, wear an insulated stocking cap since you lose lots of body heat from the top of your head. Lastly, keep in mind, the temperature ratings on sleeping bags and liners are just general guidelines. It’s up to you to determine at what temperature you can still sleep comfortably in your sleeping bag.

Here’s an easy way to trace your way from one winter constellation to another.

1. In the north winter sky, look for the Big Dipper constellation. It looks like an old well dipper, and is part of Ursa Major, the Great Bear.

2. At the “dipper” end, two stars nicknamed the Pointer Stars form a straight line to Polaris, the North Star. Polaris tips the end of the Little Dipper, also known as Ursa Minor, the Little Bear.

3. From Polaris, draw an imaginary line across the sky to a sideways M constellation recognized as Cassiopeia the Queen.

4. Turn your back to Polaris, and look for three stars in a row. These stars form the belt of Orion the Great Hunter.

5. Trace the belt stars down to the left, or east to the brightest star, Sirius, found in The Great Dog (Canis Major).

6. Trace the belt stars up to the right, or west to a V-shaped constellation, Taurus the Bull.

Q. When I get a new traditional lock-blade knife, it often messes up within the first hour. When I close it, the blade flips in and out and will not completely shut. Why isn’t it working?

A. Without seeing your knife first-hand it’s tough for me to say what’s wrong with it. My guess is that the knife itself wasn’t all that well-made in the first place. I understand that price is usually a concern for most of us, that’s why I’m happy there are knives out there like the SOG AutoClip Mini [$23; sogknives.com]. I’ve field-tested this simple, affordable lock-back knife with its 2.86-inch stainless-steel blade for months and can say it’s well-made and works perfectly. You can also find several other affordable lock-back options from Buck Knives and Gerber. Good luck!

Q. I have been reading Boys’ Life longer than most Scouts, but I saw the question about “I have a 20 degree bag…but still cold.” His problem might be that he is going to bed in the clothes that he has been wearing all day. Your body sweats, even in the coldest weather, and that moisture will keep you cold even in the warmest sleeping bag. My advice is to change into fresh dry clothes, at a minimum, change into dry socks and long johns. Try it. Dry means warm.

A. Listen here, Dan, you’re supposed to ask me a question. And I’m supposed to answer it! Are you trying to take over my job?! Just kidding. Seriously Dan, your advice to change into fresh, dry clothes before crawling into your sleeping bag for the night is spot on. Plus, it’ll help keep your sleeping bag from smelling like a sweaty locker room!

P.S. I don’t want a hybrid.

A. I think you should go with a mountain bike. Road bikes don’t do so well on rough roads, but the suspension on most mountain bikes will help swallow up the uncomfortable bumps and holes. Since it sounds like you will mostly be riding on the road, instead of knobby tires consider getting semi-slick mountain tires, which have a smoother (and faster) tread for road riding.

Q. Hello Gear Guy, My friends wear Under Armour with shorts and a T-shirt and say they are warm when it is 30 degrees out. Meanwhile I’m freezing with long johns and my uniform and a jacket on! I was considering buying Under Armour. They give me a choice of silk or polyester, which one keeps me warmer? Do you have suggestions of any other products besides Under Armour?

A. Yo Alex! I’d bet your “warm-blooded” friends might be talking up their warmth a little bit — makes them feel cooler, I guess. That said, a good base layer is indeed the key to keeping warm outdoors. If I were you, I would stick with polyester base layers rather than silk. Sure, silk will keep you warm, but it’s more expensive and usually harder to care for (some require hand-washing!). Most importantly, it’s not quite as quick to dry as polyester and slower to wick sweat away from your body. That makes polyester a better choice for a guy like you who is likely really active when you’re outdoors. While Under Armour does make nice base layers, there are plenty of other very good options out there. One of the most affordable yet high-performance base layers I know of is L.L. Bean’s Polartec Power Dry Base Layer, Midweight Crew top and pants ($35 each; llbean.com). Brands like Columbia, Mountain Hardwear, REI and Cabela’s also carry similar products.

Q. I can’t seem to find a good pair of convertible synthetic pants for hiking/backpacking. Could you point me to where I should look? I’m looking for something that doesn’t cost more than $45 to $50.

A. We have just the pants you are looking for, Paul. The official BSA Centennial Switchbacks have it all: moisture-wicking and quick-drying nylon construction, UPF sun protection, lots of cargo pockets and other extras. The legs zip off to make perfect hiking shorts, and the price is right in your wheelhouse: $49.99. Find them at your local Scout shop or at scoutstuff.org.

Q. I’m shopping for a tent and am confused by the way the tents are labeled for weight. Most seem to list two weights, a trail weight and a packed weight. What’s the difference?

A. I’ll be happy to weigh in on this one. There is no industry standard on how tent manufacturers need to weigh and label their tents. So, consider the weight on a label as a rough estimate. Packed Weight (I’ve also seen it listed as Packaged Weight) refers to everything that comes with the tent when you buy it. That includes stuff sacks, stakes, maybe even a repair kit and a manual. Obviously you won’t want to bring all of that on the trail with you, so then you look at the Trail Weight (sometimes also listed as Minimum Weight). The thing is, the Trail Weight usually includes just the tent, rainfly and poles. No stakes. No ground cloth. So the Trail Weight isn’t all that accurate, either. Others list a Fastpack Weight, which includes just the rainfly and poles. All of the above is just a long-winded way to say the actual weight will be somewhere between Packed Weight and Trail Weight.

Q. I need (OK, I want) a helmet camera. I like the GoPros but I don’t know which model to get for filming while skiing. What would you recommend?

A. I love the GoPro cameras, too! Which model you should buy depends on what you “need” from a small waterproof point-of-view video camera like this. If price is a concern, look online for a used or new entry-level GoPro SD Hero 170 (retailed for $100), which GoPro has stopped making. This one came with a helmet/head strap plus a couple of stick-on mounts, shoots standard-definition video and 5-megapixel photos, and is powered by two AAA batteries. It’s everything you need to get started shooting helmet-cam movies.

If your heart is set on capturing high-definition video, spend $180 and go with the GoPro HD Hero 960. HD Hero comes with a rechargeable battery, which will save you money in the long run. If money is no object, go with the top-of-the-line GoPro HD Helmet Hero ($300), which comes with more mounting options and is compatible with cool new accessories including the LCD BacPac, a little mountable video screen that lets you see what you’re filming in real time.

Q. How are the camping backpacks at Philmont made so lightweight?

A. The internal-frame backpacks used at Philmont Scout Ranch in Cimarron, N.M., are special “program packs” built by Osprey Packs, one of the top backpack manufacturers in the world. Philmont uses the La Plata (weight approximately 4 lbs. 5 oz.) and the Escalante (5 lbs. 4 oz.). You can’t buy those in any stores, but they are based on Osprey’s popular and lightweight Aether backpacks. The most similar model available to consumers is the Osprey Aether 85 ($289; ospreypacks.com), which weighs in at 5 lbs. 1 oz. and uses lightweight yet durable nylon fabric and superlight aluminum rods to stabilize and transfer the pack load.

The external frame backpacks used at Philmont are the classic (yet recently redesigned) Kelty Tioga (5lbs. 14 oz.) with a lightweight aluminum frame. But it’s no longer manufactured, so you can’t buy it either. If you want this pack, you’ll have to find a used one for sale somewhere.

A. Since I don’t know everything about your situation, Ethan, I’m just gonna have to give you some basic advice.

If your sleeping bag is a basic rectangle shape, try a mummy-shaped bag instead. Those fit closer to your body, so there’s less room inside the bag for your body to heat up. The fleece liner is a good idea, as that can add some valuable extra warmth to your bag. You might also try sleeping in your clothes, and wear a stocking cap — lots of your body’s heat escapes through your head. Maybe try a down sleeping bag. No synthetic insulation can match its weight to warmth ratio (but it’ll be more expensive).

You mentioned your 20-degree bag not being warm enough. Those ratings are just a general guide to what temperature you could sleep comfortably in. If you’re a cold sleeper, and it sounds as if you are, go for a sleeping bag that’s rated for much colder temps, like a 0-degree bag.

Finally, make sure you are sleeping on a sleeping pad, because the cold ground can quickly suck valuable heat from your body. Much like sleeping bags, pads are rated for colder temperatures, and using one would definitely help you sleep warmer.

Q. Yo Gear Guy! This weekend when I was setting up my two-man tent to air-dry, one of the fiberglass poles broke. Any places that I could go to get a replacement?

Dear Mr. Half. First off, good for you for airing out your tent (cue applause). Taking care of your gear is key for making it last a long time. Now, there are a couple tent pole-specific tips I’d like to offer: When you’re putting up or taking down collapsible tent poles, always work from the center out. So for instance, don’t try to collapse the pole from one end first. That’ll put too much stress on the elastic inside the pole and can cause it to break. Next, always try to keep your poles out of the dirt or sand. That stuff can get inside the pole joints and cause problems too.

Obviously your immediate issue is getting a new pole. Your best choice is to contact the original manufacturer of your tent. You should be able to find a customer-service email or toll-free number on the company’s website. If not, try going to the shop where you bought the tent. They might have info on how to reach the manufacturer. When you do get in touch, be sure to mention which exact tent model you have and which pole is broken. If that’s unsuccessful, you might also try TentPole Technologies, LLC. (www.polesforyou.com). Prices for replacement poles seem to range from $5 to $35 for fiberglass poles, depending of course on the diameter and length of the pole you need. Aluminum poles are roughly twice as expensive. While I can’t vouch for the company directly, it does seem like they’d be able to help.

Cheap vs. Steep: “Cheap” gear listed here is great stuff. It has been studied and tested and ranks among the best offerings in its price range. When you’re ready to move up to higher-end gear, the “Steep” options provide room to grow. You can often find great deals online.

HELMETS

News flash: Wearing a helmet on the slopes is cool. It means you’re smart and that you’re charging hard enough to need a brain bucket. Wear only an ASTM- or CE-approved helmet. Some helmets come with added ventilation, removable earpads, even built-in headphones. But most important, pick one that fits comfortably snug.

• Cheap: Salomon Drift Kid ($60; salomon.com)
• Steep: Ride Duster ($100; ridesnowboards.com)

GOGGLES

Goggles are meant to keep blowing snow and wind out of your eyes so you can concentrate on shredding the hill. The fit should be snug with no big gaps between your face and goggle where air can enter. Also, make sure the top of the goggle frame meets the helmet as closely as possible. Different lens tints work better in different snow conditions. Pick a darker lens for very bright days; yellow or rose tints work well in lower light. Some goggles even come with interchangeable lenses.

• Cheap: Oakley E Frame ($39; oakley.com)
• Steep: Smith Stance ($90; smithoptics.com)

BASE LAYER

If you’re wearing a regular cotton T-shirt as a base layer, you must be stuck in the 1980s! What you need next to your skin is a quick-drying fabric like a synthetic blend or wool, which wicks moisture away from your skin while keeping you warm. A zippered mock T gives you the maximum ability to regulate your body temp. Should fit snug, but not too snug.

• Cheap: Polarmax PMX Team Shirt and Tech Pant ($25 each; polarmax.com)
• Steep: Icebreaker Longsleeve Crewe and Legging ($60 each; icebreaker.com)

MID LAYER

If you’ve learned anything from Gear Guy about dressing for the outdoors, it’s this: Wear layers! If you get hot, take a layer off. Get cold, put one on. Fleece or down pullovers and jackets make great mid layers. Should fit relatively close to the body but with enough room to move.

• Cheap: Eddie Bauer First Ascent Cloudlayer fleece pullover ($20; eddiebauer.com)
• Steep: The North Face Vesty Vest ($89; thenorthface.com)

JACKET

This outer layer protects you from the wind, snow, sleet, etc. Look for a jacket that’s waterproof and breathable. Some come with built-in insulation or removable layers depending on the weather. A few zippered pockets are nice, but you don’t need too many gadgets. Should be roomy for mobility and to accommodate extra layers, but not so loose that it’ll get caught on the ski lift.

• Cheap: Columbia Rugged Peak Jacket ($115; columbia.com)
• Steep: Patagonia 3-in-1 Snowshot Jacket ($339; patagonia.com)

PANTS

Eventually, you’re gonna fall. And when you do, you’ll need a good pair of waterproof/breathable pants to keep you dry and warm. Wear them loose, but not baggy, for mobility.

• Cheap: Columbia Bugaboo Tech Pant ($85; columbia.com)
• Steep: Sierra Designs Rad Pants ($199; sierradesigns.com)

GLOVES

Look for gloves that are warm and waterproof/breathable. They need to fit tight enough so you have plenty of dexterity with your fingers and no unnecessary bulk. Leather palms can help with better feel, too.

• Cheap: Kombi Gore Method Jr. ($50; kombisports.com)
• Steep: Outdoor Research HighCamp ($79; outdoorresearch.com)

SOCKS

Wear a pair of mid-weight synthetic or merino wool socks — never cotton tube socks because they won’t keep your feet warm once they’re sweaty and wet. Make sure your socks are close-fitting because if they’re too loose, they’ll bunch up and cause blisters.

• Cheap: Lorpen Kid’s Merino Ski ($15 for 2 pair; lorpen.com)
• Steep: Icebreaker Kids Snow Mid Over the Calf ($15; icebreaker.com)

SKIS

You’ll spend somewhere between $350 to $900 for a pair of skis. In general, look for skis that come up to about your nose or forehead. For a variety of all-mountain type skiing, pick a ski with a waist of about 70 to 80 millimeters and a soft or medium flex, which is best for beginner and intermediate skiers.

• Cheap: Salomon Shogun Jr. ($275; salomon.com)
• Steep: K2 Bad Seed ($550; k2skis.com)

SKI BOOTS

Well-fitting boots are key to maintaining control of your skis. Look for four-buckle boots with customizable features for fine-tuning a better fit. The flex of your boots is also important. Beginners should look for a less stiff boot. Ski boots should fit one-half size to a full size smaller than street shoes.

• Cheap: Nordica GP TJ ($185; nordicausa.com)
• Steep: Tecnica Bodacious 65 Jr. ($375; tecnicausa.com)

SKI BINDINGS

Bindings are the connection between you and your skis. Step in and they click as they lock in. When you wipe out, the binding releases and tiny brakes pop down to stop your skis from skiing away from you! How easily they release can be adjusted; most beginners should choose a low-release setting. Most new skis are paired with bindings and will cost an extra $150 to $300.

SNOWBOARD

Expect to spend between $250 and $500 for a new snowboard. Your board should come up to right around your chin. You also want to make sure the board is wide enough so that your feet don’t hang over the edge when you turn. The next thing to consider is board stiffness. Softer flex is best for beginners because it’s easier to ride. More stiffness helps advanced riders on steeper slopes.

• Cheap: Rome Label Rocker ($260; romesnowboards.com)
• Steep: Lib Tech Lib Ribber ($349; lib-tech.com)

SNOWBOARD BOOTS

Make sure your boots are comfortable from the first time you try them on. They should fit snug in the heel and forefoot with some wiggle room for your toes. For starters try a half-size smaller than your street shoes. In general, entry-level boots have traditional shoe lacing; higher-end boots use a tightening system that lets you easily dial in the tightness with a knob.

• Cheap: Ride Orion ($129; ridesnowboards.com)
• Steep: DC Judge ($270; store.dcshoes.com)

SNOWBOARD BINDINGS

Your board is attached to your feet with bindings. There are two types: straps and step-in. Strap bindings are the most popular and are the best choice. They can be cinched down super-tight using the ratchet straps, while step-ins lock you in just by stepping down on the binding.

• Cheap: Rome Shift ($120; romesnowboards.com)
• Steep: GNU Park ($239; gnu.com)

WINTER SPORTS TIPS

• Stay Hydrated. You might not be sweating and you might not feel thirsty, but your body probably is. Cold weather and active winter sports can dehydrate you quickly, so be sure to drink enough water while skiing or riding. Some guys even wear hydration packs to keep liquids close by.

• Take a Lesson. No question, the fastest way to get past the beginner blues is to take a ski or snowboard lesson or two. Most ski resorts offer lessons.

• Shop in Summer. One of the best ways to get a good deal on ski or snowboard gear is to shop during the off-season — most snow shops have good sales starting in March. You can sometimes find quality used gear in your local newspaper classified ads or online.

• Rent First. If you’re unsure about what type of skis or board would be best for you, rent your gear. Most shops have rentals and demo equipment, and some might even offer full season leasing of a whole setup for around $150 to $200.

Q. Are waterproof bags necessary or will garbage bags work just as well?

A. This really depends on what you’re doing, Keith. If you’re throwing away a bunch of stinky trash, then a garbage bag is totally the call. But I’m assuming you’re really asking if garbage bags will also work for backpacking or canoeing or some such. The answer is yes and no.

For trail-based activities, like backpacking somewhere kinda rainy, garbage bags are actually super handy. They can be used as a waterproof pack liner (to keep your sleeping bag and clothing dry) or as a rain cover for your backpack. They are lightweight, cheap, super packable and can even provide emergency shelter in a pinch. Just be sure to get the heavy-duty, super thick plastic bags like the ones you find at Home Depot and hardware stores. Double bagging (lining one bag inside the other) is even more effective as trash bags can puncture relatively easily. For holding smaller loads like just a down sleeping bag or specific clothing, some experienced hikers tend to use smaller, narrower trash compactor bags which are thick but not as large as conventional trash bags.

Now if you’re wondering if a garbage bag is a good choice for carrying your gear on water-based outings like canoeing or rafting, the answer is no. Plastic bags can and will eventually get puncture holes, which let water seep inside. And if you capsize or if your trash bag full of clothing and gear sits in the bottom of a wet canoe for hours, there’s an excellent chance your stuff will be soaked. For this type of outing a waterproof drysack with a roll-top closure is really the best choice because it can take a full dunking and still keep the stuff inside dry. These type of dry bags range in cost from about $10 to $75 depending on size and thickness of the bag. Some good quality brand names to shop for are Sea to Summit (seatosummit.com) and SealLine (cascadedesigns.com/sealline)

Q. Yo Gear Guy, I just got back from summer camp and I had a blast, except for one thing: My tent got a hole in it. I was wondering if you know any good inexpensive ways to fix the holes?

A. Better a hole in your tent than a hole in your head, huh Zach? No worries, I have an easy solution that my buddy (and Eagle Scout) Chris Dickey shared with me. Here’s what you’ll need:

• one tube of SeamGrip ($5-$7; www.mcnett.com)
• one fabric patch
• duct tape

Apply a piece of duct tape to the backside of the fabric tear. On the outer facing side apply a thin layer of SeamGrip (careful, this is sticky stuff). Next, place the fabric patch over the top of the SeamGrip. Before it dries, give it a gentle press and wipe away any residue. Give the patch about 20 minutes to dry and you’ll have a bomber tough waterproof fix.

Q. Dear Gear Guy, I’m going on a camp-out soon and need to buy a cot. What kind of inexpensive cot do you think is best? Thanks!

A. Yo Billy, thanks for the question. I’ve been getting quite a few cot-related questions lately, so you’re not alone. There’s a wide range of cots on the market, some costing up to $150. But for your needs, which sounds like a car camping-style outing, the Wenzel Camp Folding Cot ($45; wenzelstore.com) should work just fine. It’s super basic, plenty comfortable, and simple to set up. There are definitely lighter-weight cots (this one weighs 14 lbs.) and more compact choices (the Wenzel just folds in half while others collapse neatly); still this cot should do the trick—and I even found it online for $35!

Q. Hey Gear Guy, I am getting ready to go on a camping trip and just would like to know what is the best kind of survival kit that fits nicely in my backpack and doesn’t take up too much room.

A. Thanks for the question, Stephen. The easiest thing is to buy a pre-made survival kit like the SOL (Survive Outdoors Longer) Scout ($25; adventuremedicalkits.com). This compact 5.4-ounce kit includes a compass, signal mirror, rescue whistle, survival blanket, fishing kit, fire starter and duct tape all packed inside a mini waterproof drybag that won’t take up much room in your backpack.

A. Here’s what you can do: Next time you’re camping, bring along an old towel from home. Lay it down at the entrance to your tent, like a welcome mat. Whenever you go to get inside your tent, just sit on the towel and take off your boots. Leave the shoes outside of your tent (hopefully dry and safe under a vestibule, brush off your feet and then climb inside. The towel and taking off your boots before you go inside will help stop some of the junk you might otherwise track in the tent.