GEAR FOR YOUR BODY

When the temperature drops, layering is the key to staying warm and comfortable. Here’s how:

Base Layer. Also commonly known as long underwear, this layer is worn closest to your skin. Its main job is to wick away sweat and moisture so your skin stays dry. Wear it relatively tight to the skin and use only wool or synthetic base layers. Never use cotton because it will not keep you warm once it’s wet, whether from sweat or precipitation. These base layers come in various weights, from heavy for frigid conditions to lightweight for warmer temps and activities that cause a lot of sweating, such as strenuous hiking and cross-country skiing. It’s a good idea to have one extra pair of base layers to change into every night at camp.

• Cheap: REI Midweight MTS Crew Shirt and Long Underwear Bottoms ($14.93-$22.50; rei.com)
• Steep: Icebreaker Men’s 200 Lightweight Oasis Crewe and Legging ($80 each; icebreaker.com)

Insulation. This layer is worn atop the base layer and is designed to provide the majority of your insulation. It should be made of fleece, wool, down or synthetic insulation and can be a pullover, zip-up jacket or vest, depending on how much insulation you need.

• Cheap: Columbia Fast Trek II Half Zip Fleece ($45; columbia.com)
• Steep: Patagonia Nano Puff Pullover ($169; patagonia.com)

Shell. The outermost layer, the shell jacket and pants protect you from wind and wet conditions. There are two types of shells: the hard shell is a lightweight layer that’s windproof and waterproof, capable of handling heavy rain and very wet conditions; a soft shell is made of a more flexible, soft-faced material that’s windproof yet highly breathable, and water-resistant enough to protect you against everything except a heavy downpour.

• Cheap: L.L. Bean Trail Model Rain Jacket and Pants ($79 and $69; llbean.com)
• Steep: REI Centre Peak Jacket ($199; rei.com)

GEAR FOR YOUR HEAD

Hat. You’ve surely heard this before: If you’re cold, put on a hat. Just as with any exposed skin on your body, you can lose lots of heat through your bare head. So cover up with a wool or synthetic stocking cap. Those with earflaps can be especially handy. To trap the maximum body heat, pull your jacket’s hood over your head. And when the air is so cold it seems to take your breath away, try wearing something to cover your face such as a face mask, scarf, bandana, neck gaiter or balaclava (a pullover hat with a cutout for your face).

• Cheap: Cabela’s Polartec U.S. Marines Black Watch Cap ($10; cabelas.com)
• Steep: Cyclone Buff Balaclava ($39; buffusa.com)

Headlamp. During the winter, days are shorter so it’s always a good idea to carry a headlamp with you in case you need to find your way in the dark.

• Cheap: Petzl Tikkina 2 LED ($20; petzl.com)
• Steep: Princeton Tec Remix Pro ($60; princetontec.com)

GEAR FOR YOUR FEET

Waterproof boots. Nothing can cause more misery than hiking around in soggy boots. If you want to keep your feet warm, keep them dry. Invest in a pair of waterproof boots, preferably those with warm insulation and removable liners so you can dry them out each night.

• Cheap: Kamik Hunter ($45; kamik.com)
• Steep: Sorel Bear ($140; sorel.com)

Socks. Many people underestimate the value of a quality pair of socks. For cold weather, go with wool (though synthetic blend works OK, too), and consider wearing a silk or neoprene sock liner under it to wick away sweat and minimize blistering. Also, if you’re expecting to be in very wet conditions, try wearing an old plastic grocery bag between your liner sock and your wool sock as a moisture barrier. For really cold conditions, try cutting up pieces of an old foam sleeping pad to make insoles for your boots that provide added insulation from the cold ground.

• Cheap: Woolrich Heritage Boot Sock ($8; woolrich.com)
• Steep: Smartwool Mountaineering Socks ($22.95; smartwool.com)

GEAR FOR YOUR HANDS

Waterproof gloves or mittens. Start with a thin pair of wool or synthetic liner gloves, then layer them with an outer waterproof glove or mitten. Mittens are often slightly warmer because they let you share warmth between fingers, but gloves give you better dexterity.

• Cheap: POW Liner Glove ($15; powgloves.com)
• Steep: OR Revel Shell Mitts ($59; outdoorresearch.com)

GEAR FOR YOUR TUMMY

Food. When you keep your body well fueled, it acts like an internal furnace that keeps you warm. Try to eat foods packed with slow-burning calories, like nuts, cheese, peanut butter and hard sausage.

Hydration. Even though you’re not hot and sweating, cold weather can still dehydrate you quickly. So drink plenty of water on the trail. If your pee is dark yellow, then you’re not drinking enough! For really cold climates, consider carrying an insulated water bottle or hydration bladder, or keep a small canteen of water close to your body to prevent it from freezing.

GEAR FOR YOUR BOTTOM

Foam pad. This may seem silly, but always pack a small square-shape scrap of foam pad to use for a sit cushion or kneeling pad. Besides providing a layer of insulation between your body and the cold ground, the pad can also help you avoid getting wet.

SLEEP RIGHT, SLEEP TIGHT

For winter camping, your best bet is to use a layered sleeping system.

Start with your standard sleeping bag. Assuming it’s not rated for freezing temps, you can up the warmth of your bag with a silk or fleece liner and by wearing warm clothes and a stocking cap to bed. You can also fill up space in your sleeping bag (thus keeping you warmer) with other pieces of clothing. Added bonus: Your clothes will be toasty warm in the morning.

For truly cold temps, layer your sleeping bag with an overbag, basically an oversized sleeping bag that provides an extra layer of insulation that can boost the temp rating of your sleeping bag by 20 degrees or more. Next, be sure to have a single or double layer of sleeping pads to insulate you from the cold ground. It’s great to have one pad in between your sleeping bag and your overbag. Finally, camping inside a structure like a quinzee (also called a snow dome), snow cave or igloo, or a four-season tent will keep you out of the wind and weather while you sleep.

Cheap vs. Steep: “Cheap” gear listed here is great stuff. It has been studied and tested and ranks among the best offerings in its price range. When you’re ready to move up to higher-end gear, the “Steep” options provide room to grow. You can often find great deals online.

HELMETS

News flash: Wearing a helmet on the slopes is cool. It means you’re smart and that you’re charging hard enough to need a brain bucket. Wear only an ASTM- or CE-approved helmet. Some helmets come with added ventilation, removable earpads, even built-in headphones. But most important, pick one that fits comfortably snug.

• Cheap: Salomon Drift Kid ($60; salomon.com)
• Steep: Ride Duster ($100; ridesnowboards.com)

GOGGLES

Goggles are meant to keep blowing snow and wind out of your eyes so you can concentrate on shredding the hill. The fit should be snug with no big gaps between your face and goggle where air can enter. Also, make sure the top of the goggle frame meets the helmet as closely as possible. Different lens tints work better in different snow conditions. Pick a darker lens for very bright days; yellow or rose tints work well in lower light. Some goggles even come with interchangeable lenses.

• Cheap: Oakley E Frame ($39; oakley.com)
• Steep: Smith Stance ($90; smithoptics.com)

BASE LAYER

If you’re wearing a regular cotton T-shirt as a base layer, you must be stuck in the 1980s! What you need next to your skin is a quick-drying fabric like a synthetic blend or wool, which wicks moisture away from your skin while keeping you warm. A zippered mock T gives you the maximum ability to regulate your body temp. Should fit snug, but not too snug.

• Cheap: Polarmax PMX Team Shirt and Tech Pant ($25 each; polarmax.com)
• Steep: Icebreaker Longsleeve Crewe and Legging ($60 each; icebreaker.com)

MID LAYER

If you’ve learned anything from Gear Guy about dressing for the outdoors, it’s this: Wear layers! If you get hot, take a layer off. Get cold, put one on. Fleece or down pullovers and jackets make great mid layers. Should fit relatively close to the body but with enough room to move.

• Cheap: Eddie Bauer First Ascent Cloudlayer fleece pullover ($20; eddiebauer.com)
• Steep: The North Face Vesty Vest ($89; thenorthface.com)

JACKET

This outer layer protects you from the wind, snow, sleet, etc. Look for a jacket that’s waterproof and breathable. Some come with built-in insulation or removable layers depending on the weather. A few zippered pockets are nice, but you don’t need too many gadgets. Should be roomy for mobility and to accommodate extra layers, but not so loose that it’ll get caught on the ski lift.

• Cheap: Columbia Rugged Peak Jacket ($115; columbia.com)
• Steep: Patagonia 3-in-1 Snowshot Jacket ($339; patagonia.com)

PANTS

Eventually, you’re gonna fall. And when you do, you’ll need a good pair of waterproof/breathable pants to keep you dry and warm. Wear them loose, but not baggy, for mobility.

• Cheap: Columbia Bugaboo Tech Pant ($85; columbia.com)
• Steep: Sierra Designs Rad Pants ($199; sierradesigns.com)

GLOVES

Look for gloves that are warm and waterproof/breathable. They need to fit tight enough so you have plenty of dexterity with your fingers and no unnecessary bulk. Leather palms can help with better feel, too.

• Cheap: Kombi Gore Method Jr. ($50; kombisports.com)
• Steep: Outdoor Research HighCamp ($79; outdoorresearch.com)

SOCKS

Wear a pair of mid-weight synthetic or merino wool socks — never cotton tube socks because they won’t keep your feet warm once they’re sweaty and wet. Make sure your socks are close-fitting because if they’re too loose, they’ll bunch up and cause blisters.

• Cheap: Lorpen Kid’s Merino Ski ($15 for 2 pair; lorpen.com)
• Steep: Icebreaker Kids Snow Mid Over the Calf ($15; icebreaker.com)

SKIS

You’ll spend somewhere between $350 to $900 for a pair of skis. In general, look for skis that come up to about your nose or forehead. For a variety of all-mountain type skiing, pick a ski with a waist of about 70 to 80 millimeters and a soft or medium flex, which is best for beginner and intermediate skiers.

• Cheap: Salomon Shogun Jr. ($275; salomon.com)
• Steep: K2 Bad Seed ($550; k2skis.com)

SKI BOOTS

Well-fitting boots are key to maintaining control of your skis. Look for four-buckle boots with customizable features for fine-tuning a better fit. The flex of your boots is also important. Beginners should look for a less stiff boot. Ski boots should fit one-half size to a full size smaller than street shoes.

• Cheap: Nordica GP TJ ($185; nordicausa.com)
• Steep: Tecnica Bodacious 65 Jr. ($375; tecnicausa.com)

SKI BINDINGS

Bindings are the connection between you and your skis. Step in and they click as they lock in. When you wipe out, the binding releases and tiny brakes pop down to stop your skis from skiing away from you! How easily they release can be adjusted; most beginners should choose a low-release setting. Most new skis are paired with bindings and will cost an extra $150 to $300.

SNOWBOARD

Expect to spend between $250 and $500 for a new snowboard. Your board should come up to right around your chin. You also want to make sure the board is wide enough so that your feet don’t hang over the edge when you turn. The next thing to consider is board stiffness. Softer flex is best for beginners because it’s easier to ride. More stiffness helps advanced riders on steeper slopes.

• Cheap: Rome Label Rocker ($260; romesnowboards.com)
• Steep: Lib Tech Lib Ribber ($349; lib-tech.com)

SNOWBOARD BOOTS

Make sure your boots are comfortable from the first time you try them on. They should fit snug in the heel and forefoot with some wiggle room for your toes. For starters try a half-size smaller than your street shoes. In general, entry-level boots have traditional shoe lacing; higher-end boots use a tightening system that lets you easily dial in the tightness with a knob.

• Cheap: Ride Orion ($129; ridesnowboards.com)
• Steep: DC Judge ($270; store.dcshoes.com)

SNOWBOARD BINDINGS

Your board is attached to your feet with bindings. There are two types: straps and step-in. Strap bindings are the most popular and are the best choice. They can be cinched down super-tight using the ratchet straps, while step-ins lock you in just by stepping down on the binding.

• Cheap: Rome Shift ($120; romesnowboards.com)
• Steep: GNU Park ($239; gnu.com)

WINTER SPORTS TIPS

• Stay Hydrated. You might not be sweating and you might not feel thirsty, but your body probably is. Cold weather and active winter sports can dehydrate you quickly, so be sure to drink enough water while skiing or riding. Some guys even wear hydration packs to keep liquids close by.

• Take a Lesson. No question, the fastest way to get past the beginner blues is to take a ski or snowboard lesson or two. Most ski resorts offer lessons.

• Shop in Summer. One of the best ways to get a good deal on ski or snowboard gear is to shop during the off-season — most snow shops have good sales starting in March. You can sometimes find quality used gear in your local newspaper classified ads or online.

• Rent First. If you’re unsure about what type of skis or board would be best for you, rent your gear. Most shops have rentals and demo equipment, and some might even offer full season leasing of a whole setup for around $150 to $200.

CHEEP VS. STEEP
Gear Guy knows you’re on a budget. But because everyone’s budget is different, he has provided multiple options. “Cheap” gear listed here is great stuff. It has been studied and tested and ranks among the best offerings in its price range. When you’re ready to move up to higher-end gear, the “Steep” options provide room to grow. You can often find great deals at online sites such as eBay, where there usually are lots of cheap, barely used climbing shoes.

HELMET
The good ol’ brain bucket is one of the most important pieces of climbing gear because it protects your head from hitting something as well as from falling rocks and gear. Wear only a UIAA- or CEN-approved climbing helmet; bicycle and football helmets aren’t acceptable because they’re not designed to protect you from falling objects. If you’re warm-natured or climbing somewhere hot, look for a light-colored helmet with plenty of ventilation. But most important, pick one that fits comfortably snug.
Cheap: Petzl Elios ($66; www.petzl.com)
Steep: Black Diamond Tracer ($90; www.blackdiamondequipment.com)

SHOES
Athletic shoes and light hikers are fine for beginning climbers. But if you want more performance, you’ll need climbing-specific shoes. There are several types, from tight-fitting sock-like climbing slippers, to flexible and super grippy friction shoes, to edging shoes, which provide performance with more comfort. Climbing shoes should be tight but not painfully so. You might size down a size or two from your street shoe when picking a climbing shoe. They are also usually available for rent at climbing gyms and are sometimes provided for use at Scout camps.
Cheap: La Sportiva Tarantula ($80; www.sportiva.com)
Steep: Scarpa Vapor Lace ($140; www.scarpa.com)

HARNESS
A harness comfortably distributes your weight and allows you to attach yourself to the belay rope. Always follow the manufacturer’s recommendations on how to attach to the harness. Tie the belay rope directly to your harness rather than using a carabiner. The waist belt and loops distribute your weight in many directions for comfort and safety in the event of a fall. Though it’s possible to tie a seat harness from a single piece of webbing, a commercially made harness is more comfy. Pick a harness that is tight but not so much that it restricts your movement. When in doubt, choose the smaller size.
Cheap: Black Diamond Alpine Bod ($38; www.blackdiamondequipment.com)
Steep: Mammut Zephir ($100; www.mammut.ch)

CARABINERS
A locking carabiner is used to attach the belay device to your harness. Carabiners are essential for rappelling and belaying other climbers. Good carabiners are made of aluminum alloy or high-grade steel, with spring-loaded gates that snap closed. They can be oval, D-shaped or pear-shaped and come in either locking or nonlocking options. Usually, the lighter and stronger a carabiner is, the more expensive it will be. Beware of look-alike carabiners — things like climbing key rings and accessory holders that are not designed for climbing, as they won’t be strong enough to support your body weight.
Cheap: Black Diamond Oval Carabiner ($5.50; www.blackdiamondequipment.com)
Steep: Omega Pacific ISO Locking Standard D Screwgate Carabiner
($9.50; www.omegapac.com)

BELAY DEVICE
Belaying is a safety technique that provides friction to a climbing rope while your partner is climbing so he cannot fall very far if he slips. There are several types of belay devices, including a slotted plate and a tube device. The tube device is most popular because it provides friction with minimal heat. There are also specialized belay devices, like the GriGri, which automatically locks up the rope when loaded with tension (a lot like a seat belt in a car). These are commonly used at climbing gyms.
Cheap: Black Diamond ATC ($17; www.blackdiamondequipment.com)
Steep: Petzl GriGri 2 ($95; boyslife.org/links/petzl)*

*IMPORTANT NOTE: Early models of GriGri 2 have been recalled because of a potential problem in which the handle may become stuck open. Serial numbers between 10326 and 11136 are affected.

CHALK
Your grip is super important while climbing. Chalk helps dry your hands (by removing sweat and moisture) and improves your hold on the rock. Most climbers use loose chalk in a bag or chalk balls (you can make your own by filling a cut-off stocking with chalk). Though it’s perfect for gyms and manmade climbing towers, chalk stays visible on rocks, making it look unnatural and conflicting with Leave No Trace principles. Always follow local regulations regarding chalk use when climbing in the wild.
• Metolius Super Chalk ($3.75 for 4.5 oz.; www.metoliusclimbing.com)
• Mad Rock Koala Chalkbag ($15; www.madrockclimbing.com)

TRAINING AIDE
You don’t have to be out in nature on a real rock or in a climbing gym to train for rock climbing. Many climbers use grip trainers to build the muscles of the hand and forearm. Others hang pull-up style training boards in their home to practice various climbing holds and moves.
Cheap: Power Putty Hand Strengthener ($8; www.powerputty.com)
Steep: DynaFlex Pro Gyro Ball Hand Exerciser ($25; www.mydfx.com)
Steeper: Metolius Project Training Board ($55; www.metoliusclimbing.com)

TIPS & TRICKS

CLIMBING BASICS
Here’s how rock climbing works: While the climber works his way up the rock face (which can vary from a slight incline to vertical to an overhang) another guy belays him. The climber wears a harness that is attached to a rope held by the belayer, who uses a simple device to add friction to the rope when needed. As the climber climbs, the belayer maintains tension on the rope and takes in or feeds out rope as needed. If the climber slips and falls, the belayer can easily and safely stop his fall.

THREE POINTS ON THE ROCK
The most efficient way to climb is using the three-point stance — keeping two hands and one foot on the rock at all times while moving the free foot to a new location, or having both feet and one hand on holds as the free hand moves. Lean out from the wall slightly so your body weight rests on your feet. Your hands should be used primarily for balance so your stronger leg muscles can do the bulk of the climbing work.

BRAINS OVER BRAWN
Use your mind, not just your muscles, when climbing. Always look ahead up the rock thinking about where you should place your hands and feet next. Think several moves ahead of where you are and mentally create a route to follow. Also look sideways for other hand and foot placements.

LEARNING THE ROPES
One of the most important pieces of climbing gear is the rope. While beginners usually don’t own their own ropes, it’s good to know the different types. Dynamic rope stretches when put under load (like your body weight), so it can absorb some of the shock of a falling climber. Static ropes stretch less — they are best for things like hauling gear up the rock — and are not suitable for situations in which a climber may fall. (Keep in mind: Unless you’re climbing on your own, you’ll never have to provide your own ropes. In fact, Scout camps won’t even let you bring your own carabiners, ropes or belay devices because they have to ensure the history of all gear used.)

BE 13
Most Boy Scout councils and summer camps will
not allow boys to participate in climbing until
they are at least 13. Even then, never go climbing
without a qualified BSA climbing instructor.

DRESS TO CLIMB
When climbing, always wear a comfortable shirt and pants to avoid scrapes and abrasions on the rock. Loose clothing is good, but stay away from baggy clothes because they may get caught on the rock
or interfere with your movement.

Cabela’s Backcountry Hikers
($60; cabelas.com)
These waterproof boots have leather uppers with nylon side panels and plenty of padding in the ankle and tongue for extra support. At $60, they’re also the most affordable waterproof boots in our roundup, and we even saw them on sale online for $40! Approx. 3 lbs. per pair.

Hi-Tec Mokala Mid
($55; hi-tec.com)
With a combo of suede leather and breathable mesh and a steel shank in the sole, the Mokalas provide good support, especially for a mid-ankle cut boot. While not waterproof, this boot has a moisture-wicking lining to pull sweat away and keep your feet dry. Approx. 2 lbs. 8 oz. per pair.

L.L. Bean Waterproof Trail Model Hikers
($89; llbean.com)
Though these boots are considered mid-cut hikers, they are cut quite high and offer enough ankle support for a multiday trip carrying a moderate load. They are made with a combo of nylon and suede leather and feature a waterproof, breathable membrane. If wet feet aren’t a concern, check out the nonwaterproof version of this same boot for just $59. Approx. 2 lbs. 12 oz. per pair.

Merrell Moab Ventilator
($95; merrell.com)
By far the lightest-weight true boots in our roundup, these mid-top Ventilators feel like a pair of comfy running shoes. The breathable mesh uppers have leather strapping that provides extra support without making the boots too heavy. They have nice Vibram-brand soles and are a good choice for summer hiking. Approx. 1 lb. 15 oz. per pair.

Columbia Coremic Ridge 2
($65; columbia.com)
The Coremic Ridge 2’s uppers are breathable mesh with suede leather overlays to give your foot more support. Though they aren’t waterproof, these boots are treated with Columbia’s Omni-Shield for water and stain resistance. We found them cheaper online and in stores, for around $50. Approx. 2 lbs. 10.5 oz. per pair.

Vasque Ranger GTX
($110; vasque.com)
An entry-level boot from well-respected boot maker Vasque, the mesh and suede leather Ranger has features, like waterproof, breathable Gore-Tex and a durable rubber rand around the toe, you usually find only on higher-priced boots. We saw the Ranger GTX discounted on Amazon.com for just 89 bucks. Approx. 2 lbs. 14 oz. per pair.

Timberland White Ledge Hiker
($85; shop.timberland.com)
These waterproof boots have an almost entirely full-grain leather upper with fewer seams for greater durability. A mid-cut, well-padded nylon ankle provides support while a moisture-wicking interior does its best to keep your feet from getting wet with sweat on hot days. Approx.
2 lbs. 5 oz. per pair.

Helly Hansen Trackfinder
($75; hellyhansen.com)
Low-cut hikers like these are a great option for those times when you’re not carrying a backpack and don’t need extra ankle support. They are comfortable like a sneaker but still provide enough shock absorption for rocky, rugged trails. Approx. 1 lb. 11.5 oz. per pair.

SHOP SMART … with these five smart boot-buying tips.

Try before you buy. Put them on and hike around the store for at least 10 minutes to check proper fit.

Bring socks. Always bring a pair of your own hiking socks to the store for trying on boots.

Lace ’em up. Make sure the boots are laced up correctly and snug for best fit.

Shop late. Your feet are largest in the afternoon, so shop then.

Fit right. Yes, your feet are still growing, but buy boots that fit right now; never buy them large so you’ll grow into them. Loose-fitting boots can be dangerous and uncomfortable on the trail.

Fast-forward 18 hours: The rest of your troop is out playing while you’re sitting on the toilet—been there all morning with some wicked diarrhea courtesy of that snowball you ate yesterday. Not fun.

WHAT’S HOT Great gear to treat your water: MSR SweetWater MicroFilter ($90, cascadedesigns.com): This durable, simple-to-use pump filters 1.25 liters per minute and weighs just 11 ounces. The SweetWater’s 0.2-micron filter removes bacteria and protozoa as well as the smell and taste of most water. Aquamira Frontier Pro filter ($25, mcnett.com): The ingenious Frontier Pro is a two-ounce filter that attaches to most any narrow-mouth water bottle, including supermarket-bought water bottles, and filters the water as you suck it through the mouthpiece. Potable Aqua ($10, potableaqua.com): Just pop two of these iodine purification tablets into one quart of questionable water, shake, wait about 20 minutes and you’ll have safe, drinkable water. SteriPEN Adventurer Opti ($100, steripen.com): Just plop in this 3.6-ounce battery-powered UV-light purifying wand and stir. Takes just 90 seconds to purify one liter of water. Also doubles as an LED flashlight. Platypus CleanStream Gravity Microfilter ($100, cascadedesigns.com): This 13.7-ounce gravity-fed system filters four liters of water in just 2.5 minutes with almost zero effort. Simply fill the “dirty” bag with water and hold it higher than the “clean” bag, and gravity will pull the water through the 0.2-micron filter cartridge until it’s ready to drink. Good for camping in groups. Katadyn MicroPur MP1 Tablets ($13 for 30 tabs, katadyn.com): Simply dissolve these chlorine dioxide purification tablets in suspect water. Takes between 30 minutes and four hours depending on water quality and water temp. Used by the U.S. military and distributed to crews at Philmont Scout Ranch. First Need XL Water Purifier ($112, generalecology.com): he First Need purifier removes nasties down to 0.1 micron and provides two quarts of water per minute while pumping. Weighs 16 ounces.

Whether it’s snow or a clear mountain stream, you can get very sick from drinking untreated water.

“Even if it looks clear and clean, you’ve just got to do whatever you can to purify it,” says Jordan Romero, 13, who is on track to be the youngest mountaineer to summit all of the world’s seven tallest peaks. Luckily there are many ways to purify your water and several great gear options that make the job easier.

BOILING

This one is simple. Just heat any suspect water to a roiling boil. When half-inch-wide bubbles are rising from the bottom of the pot for about a minute, you’re good to go. “We always collect snow, melt it and boil it,” Jordan says.

Pros: Cheap, simple, very effective.

Cons: Slow, especially at high altitudes; can use lots of stove fuel; won’t remove silt.

CHEMICALS

Just plop in iodine or chlorine tablets or drops, and wait as they kill the nasties. Tablets cost between $10 and $15 for a pack of 20.

Pros: Ultralight, simple, great as a backup purifying method. “It’s quick and cheap,” Jordan says.

Cons: “It can affect the water’s taste,” Jordan adds. You need to wait 15 to 60 minutes before drinking, it won’t clean out the silt, and not all chemical purifiers are effective against all germs and things—be sure to check the label.

UV LIGHT

These battery-powered wands emit ultraviolet light to purify your water. Just turn one on and wave it around in your water. UV purifiers cost $100 or more.

Pros: Very portable, fast, easy, no chemical taste.

Cons: Won’t work in muddy water, requires batteries, expensive, can treat only small batches at a time.

MIOX

This stands for MIxed OXidant treatment. Basically it uses salt and electricity to make a water solution that interacts with your untreated water.

Pros: Easy, very portable.

Cons: Expensive, must wait for at least 15 minutes while water is treated, won’t filter out silt, requires batteries.

FILTERS AND MECHANICAL PURIFIERS

Filters use a handheld pump that pushes water through a tight screen and a filter that strains out germs as well as silt and such. These are good for wilderness areas where human virus contamination isn’t an issue. Purifiers go one step further (using iodine or electrostatic functions) to deactivate dangerous viruses. Purifiers are essential when traveling in areas where human waste might be contaminating your water source. These generally cost between $40 and $200. Look for one with a filter pore size of 0.2 microns or less. Also pay attention to its advertised liters/per minute, as this will tell you how long it will take you to pump the water.

Pros: Easy, removes chunky stuff and contaminants from the water, generally durable.

Cons: “They can be bulky to fit in your pack,” Jordan says. Also, they can be expensive and could clog and fail in the field.

HOW MUCH WATER DO I NEED?

A good rule: 2 to 3 liters of water per Scout per day. Don’t wait until you’re thirsty to drink. Always have it at the ready and drink small amounts frequently.

WHAT IF IT’S MUDDY?

Muddy water? No problem. Just let it settle in the bottom of a wide pot. Then very carefully scoop the clear water from the top. Next, strain it through a bandana or a paper coffee filter. Finally, filter, boil or purify and drink up!

Get a good night sleep on your next camp out with the Gear Guy’s handy guide to sleeping pads, bag liners, pillows and cots.

SLEEPING PAD

A sleeping pad is one of the most important pieces of camping gear you’ll ever own. In addition to keeping you comfortable while sleeping someplace hard, the pad will also insulate your body from the warmth-grabbing ground. A sleeping pad is something you’ll never grow out of, and as long as you take care of it, it’ll last for many years. So it might be worth investing in a good one.

There are several types:

• Closed-cell foam pads are usually thin, lightweight and durable foam pads that give you adequate insulation but won’t provide lots of comfort and padding.
• Open-cell foam pads are lightweight and softer than closed-cell pads but won’t be quite as warm or durable.
• Self-inflating pads are thin pads that usually have a nylon shell covering open-cell foam. They provide good insulation and warmth but are more expensive, heavier and can pop.

The closed-cell foam Ridge Rest Sleeping Pad ($20, scoutstuff.org) is an ultralight backpacking classic. It weighs just nine ounces and has helped many a Scout sleep over the years. ($20)

The two-pound Therm-a-Rest Trail Lite ($60 to $70, cascadedesigns.com) self-inflating pad rolls up and packs small enough for backpacking trips.

The two-pound open-cell foam self-inflating Kelty Camper Pad ($60, kelty.com) has anti-slip dots on one side and comes with a repair kit. ($60)

BAG LINER / SLEEPSHEET

One of the handiest and most underrated pieces of sleep gear, the sleeping bag liner is truly multipurpose. In warm weather, it can be used alone as an ultra-light sleeping bag. When slipped inside a sleeping bag, it’ll boost the warmth of your bag by 10 to 30 degrees and will keep it cleaner and reduce wear and tear. Liners are made of everything from cotton to silk (expensive) to fleece (super warm).

The Sea to Summit Adaptor CoolMax Travel Liner ($45, seatosummit.com) is made with moisture-wicking CoolMax fabric, like lots of athletic clothes, and is well-suited for summer camping. This liner will also soon be offered in a version treated with InsectShield to repel mosquitoes and other bugs. ($55)

Another good liner for warm-weather camping, the REI MTS Mummy Bag Liner ($36, rei.com) is made of the same fabric used in REI’s MTS underlayer clothing and is specifically designed for use with mummy-style sleeping bags.

PILLOW

This is a camp luxury. Sure you can make your own, but if you have the space, sleeping with a packable, lightweight pillow is pretty darn nice.

The ENO Pro Pillow ($22, eaglesnestoutfittersinc.com) weighs 11 ounces and has a polar fleece side for cold weather camping and a microfiber side for warmer nights. Throw it in its stuffsack and it’ll compress down to 25 percent of its full size.

Wanna pack your own pillow? Bring along the 2.3-ounce, microfiber-covered Therm-a-Rest Trekker Pillow Case ($11, cascadedesigns.com) and fill it with all your extra clothes for an even comfier DIY pillow.

Gear Guy has been using the Slumberjack Quallofil Camp Pillow ($11, scoutstuff.org) for a really long time. It’s not the cushiest thing in the world, but it does the job and is affordable.

COT

While you’d probably never bring a cot along for a backpacking trip, there’s nothing better than racking out on a cot on car-camping trips. They get you up off the ground for added comfort, better ventilation and for some, a better night’s rest.

The foldable Trekker Camp Cot ($60, cabelas.com) weighs 15 pounds and supports you comfortably with durable nylon fabric stretched across an aluminum frame.

The sturdy and wide Slumberjack Big Cot ($90, scoutstuff.org) has polyester fabric with an aluminum and steel frame.

That’s exactly what professional kayaker Pat Keller did just so he could paddle a 31-mile stretch of the remote Middle Kings River in California, some of the most difficult whitewater in the United States. And he did it all (hiking and paddling) wearing a pair of river shoes. Pat knows better than most that sometimes it’s best to leave the burly hiking boots at home. That’s why we asked him to tell us how to shop for sports sandals and light hikers.

SANDALS VS. LIGHT HIKERS

There’s a place and time for boots. But in some situations, boots can be overkill — like when you’re hiking with a daypack or lightweight pack or doing water-based sports in which your feet will be wet much of the time.

“Rarely do I feel the need to strap on big burly boots,” Keller says. “If you want freedom and don’t want to worry about getting wet crossing creeks, sandals are a great option. Most of the rest of the time shoes are a better idea.”

PRICE

Sports sandals are not cheap. It’s difficult to find a quality pair of sandals capable of hiking for less than $70, and most cost more than $100. Though sandals require less material to build, it seems you get more for your money with a pair of light hikers, which run from $75 to $140. For better prices, check the Internet for closeouts and the bargain table at your local outfitter shop.

TRY BEFORE YOU BUY

How many times have you heard the Gear Guy say this? But it’s so important. Go to a store where you can try on the sandals or shoes. Bring the sort of socks you’d expect to wear with light hikers. Try on as many as you can, and don’t be afraid to tromp all around the store for 10 minutes or so.

“A lot of fitting shops have a little incline. Try walking up and down on that and pay attention for any slipping and potential for blisters,” Keller recommends. “The right shoe should be comfy from the get-go.” With sandals and light hikers, there should be zero break-in period.

BE A SOLE MAN

Arguably the most important part of the shoe is the sole, the bottom where all the tread is. The deeper the tread, the more grip you have.

“You need to trust that those knobbies will get you to the top of the hill,” Keller says. “And you want to be able to have enough
rigidity in the sole that you can kick it into the hillside for traction.”

Certain types of soles are made for specific activities. Make sure the pair you pick fits with the activities you plan on doing.

“Harder rubber compounds are better for kicking in steps on steep banks, and travel on dirt trails,” he says. “And they last longer than the squishy, sticky rubber soles that are super good for wet rock.”

WEATHER OR NOT

Sports sandals are best for wet environments. And they can be good for warm climates, too, but some offer more ventilation than others. The same goes for light hikers. Most are constructed with mesh (best for warmer climates) or leather uppers (cooler climates), while some are made with waterproof/breathable fabrics like Gore-Tex. Keep this in mind: Even though the shoe might be waterproof, if you step in a puddle or stream more than ankle-deep your foot will get wet all the same.

FIT BEFORE FASHION

“Get what you like and what you think looks good,” Keller says, “but stop yourself before you buy to make sure it feels good and really fits.”

CHECK THE RULES

Sports sandals have their place in the outdoors, but not every place. Many camps require closed-toe shoes. Check before you go.

While for some guys cooking means unwrapping an energy bar and pouring some Gatorade, if you want to do camp cooking right, you’ll need at least a few smart pieces of cooking gear.

“But don’t just go home and pull something out of your mom’s cabinet,” warns Adam, who has led Scouts at the BSA national high-adventure base near Cimarron, N.M., for five years. “That would be overkill, and there are plenty of lightweight things designed specifically for the trail.”

Here are Adam’s suggestions for building your own backcountry kitchen. Read on and eat well.

WHAT TO CARRY

The sort of cooking gear you bring along depends on how many people will be eating meals and what you plan to cook. The bigger your group, the bigger the size and number of pots and pans you’ll need to bring — but you’ll also be able to share the weight by splitting up the gear among your crew.

“If you’re hiking and cooking in a crew, each individual probably only needs his own bowl, spoon and cup,” Adam says. If you’re just backpacking with a friend and plan to eat freeze-dried meals, then a single pot with a lid plus two spoons might be all you need.

WEIGHT

Camp cookware can be made of everything from ultra-light titanium or aluminum alloy to sturdy stainless steel. “For backpacking, aluminum and lighter metals like titanium are the way to go,” Adam says. “Stainless steel is heavier, but if you can get away with the extra weight, stainless will last a lot longer.”

Aluminum is both affordable and lightweight but less durable and tougher to clean. Titanium is very strong, but also extremely expensive.

BUY A KIT OR A LA CARTE?

Buying cookware one piece at a time will help you get exactly the stuff you want, but the prepackaged cooksets — which usually come with a pair of bowls, a lid, a plate/lid/frying pan, pot grabber and such — will likely save you money and time, and they will be lighter weight and more compact because they are designed to nest together. “Mess kits are cool because they give you options and then you can decide exactly what to take for each trip,” he says.

EXTRAS

Make sure your pot comes with a lid — otherwise boiling water outdoors in an unprotected pan will take forever and waste lots of precious fuel. And don’t forget to bring along something to pick up your hot pots and pans, since most camp cookware doesn’t have handles. “A lot of kits come with hot pot tongs or handle grabbers,” Adam says. “But you can also just use something like a Leatherman-type tool, which will also serve other functions on the trail.”

NONSTICK OR NOT?

Some pots and pans come with a nonstick coating like Teflon that stops food from sticking to the metal. This is especially handy when frying foods, and it makes cleanup much simpler. Be aware that nonstick coatings are easily scratched by metal utensils and will eventually wear off.

SOMETHING TO EAT AND DRINK FROM

While an old plastic cereal bowl works for Adam, you might prefer something more lightweight and space friendly, like a collapsible bowl or even foldable cups and bowls. “I often use a simple Tupperware-style bowl with a lid — that way, I can store food inside.”

UTENSILS

“You should always have a spoon,” Adam says. “For small groups, you can just use your personal utensil as a stir spoon. But for groups of 10 or so, you should have a dedicated long-handled cook spoon for stirring and serving because it’s easier and more hygienic.”

Long-handled spoons are also good for digging to the bottom of a bag of freeze-dried food and for stirring boiling water. Some people swear by multi-function utensils like sporks (spoon + fork) or foons (fork + spoon). These can be made from titanium (expensive) or Lexan or some other type of hard polycarbonate plastic (affordable). It’s really all personal preference.

WHERE TO SHOP

“Shopping online is a great resource,” Adam says, “because you can read a lot of reviews online and make price comparisons.” But when it comes to shopping for cookware, you might as well just go to your local outdoor specialty retailer. “It’s great to support your local shops, and it’s probably not worth paying the extra shipping to order cooking gear online,” he says.

HOW MUCH TO SPEND

When it comes to camp cookware, you can spend from $150 for a lightweight titanium cook set to $7 on used pots, bowls and silverware at the local resale store. One thing to consider is that good cookware is an investment. Unlike boots and clothing, you’ll never grow out of your pots and pans, so it’s not a bad idea to invest in something that will be durable and lightweight.

Since you’re reading this, we’re guessing you are a bike rider, too. While bicycles are indeed a simple way to get away and have fun, buying one isn’t always so simple. That’s why we huddled with Graham to bring you the following must-read bike buying tips.

MOUNTAIN, ROAD OR BMX?

“Before you go to a shop, know what kind of riding you want to do,” Graham says. “There’s a different type of bike for every type of riding you could want to do.”

Mountain bikes are designed for off-road riding. There are three types of mountain biking: cross country (trail riding), downhill (it’s just like it sounds) and freeride (jumps and tricks on a mountain bike).

Road bikes are made for riding on paved roads, often for long distances and at higher speeds.

Bikes for BMX (which means bicycle motocross, but no one ever calls it that!) are smaller and used for doing tricks (on the dirt or street), racing motocross-style courses and jumping too.

WHERE TO SHOP

Once you’re set on what sort of riding you want to do, it’s time to pick a bike shop. Skip the department stores and warehouse-type places. They likely won’t have salespeople with the bike-specific expertise you need.

“Every town has a few bike shops, so you should check all of them out first,” Graham says. “Be careful, though. Sometimes people can sell you into a bike that might not work for you at all, and you’ll end up wasting your money that way.”

Pick a store where you feel comfortable with the salespeople, where they’re friendly and seem to know what they are talking about. Finally, when speaking to salespeople, be honest about your biking skills and where you plan to ride. That way, they can point you toward the best bike for your skill level.

PROPER FIT

The most important thing to consider when buying a bike is fit. If the bike doesn’t fit you correctly, it will be uncomfortable and difficult to ride. Here are a few rules for bike fitting:

Standover Height. Straddle the bike and then pick it up until it hits your crotch.

For a road bike, you should have about one inch of clearance between the bottom of the tires and the floor.

If it’s a mountain bike, you’ll need at least two inches of space — more if you plan on being a very aggressive rider. This much clearance is needed for optimum maneuverability and so you can hop on and off easily. If the mountain bike has a full suspension (shock absorbers on both front fork and tail), then you don’t need a full two inches of clearance as the suspension will compress a bit under your weight while riding.

Top Tube Length. The top tube is the horizontal tube that runs lengthwise along the bike’s frame from the seat to the handlebars. Sit on the saddle and reach for the handlebar.

“If your arms are dead straight and you’re still reaching for the bars, then the bike is too long,” Graham says. “If your knees are hitting the bar, then it’s way too short.”

With your hands on the bar, you should have a slight bend in your elbows and — this will sound weird — it should feel like you could comfortably play piano keys on your handlebar.

Seat Height. While sitting on the saddle with your foot at the bottom of the pedal stroke, your knee should be bent slightly, not fully extended. Have the salesperson adjust the seat height until it’s perfect.

Any salesperson at a good bike shop can help you get the perfect fit. (Another reason to avoid the warehouse stores.)

BMX bikes are smaller with more compact frames, so the above advice about standover height or seat height doesn’t apply.

“You just want it to feel super comfortable,” Graham says. “I like having my arms a little bent, and not feeling as if my knees are going to smoke the handlebars.”

PRICE

Beware of cheap bikes from department stores. Odds are they’ll be really heavy and not very durable.

“Spend a little extra money for a bike that’s going to last you a long time and will be easy to service and take care of,” Graham says.

Expect to pay at least $400 to get a good entry-level mountain bike, at least $500 for an entry-level road bike and about $225 for a quality BMX bike. If you’re a more experienced rider, you might consider spending a bit more. That will get you a lighter-weight bike that’s likely more durable with more adjustments and bells and whistles.

QUALITY FRAME

A bike’s frame is like its skeleton. It’s what gives the bike structure and strength. Quality mountain bikes and road bikes usually have frames made of lightweight aluminum (more expensive models often have composite frames like carbon fiber). BMX bike frames are usually made of steel.

QUALITY COMPONENTS

The bike’s components (gears, cranks and other moving parts) move you along the road or trail. Graham recommends sticking with well-known, trusted, brand-name components like Shimano, Suntour, SRAM and Bontrager.

Most mountain bikes also have suspensions, or shock absorbers, on the front fork (called a “hardtail”) and some-times also on the rear (called a “full suspension”) for a softer, easier ride on rough trails. Hardtails are generally more durable, require less maintenance and are a great choice for most riders. Trusted brand names for suspensions include Rock Shox, Fox and Marzocchi.

ALWAYS TEST DRIVE

Before you buy a bike, be sure to take it for a test ride.

“They’ll always let you ride them out in the shop’s parking lot,” Graham says. “It’ll be pretty easy to tell if the bike feels good or not.”

But don’t just cruise around the lot. To get a feel for a bike’s performance, try doing tight turns and sprints. For mountain bikes and BMX bikes, consider riding up curbs and speed bumps. Pay special attention to how the bike handles while turning, and note if the gears shift smoothly. Finally, some specialty shops will have demo bikes you can take out on a longer ride — this is a great way to get a feel for a bicycle.

Who better to tap for sun-protection advice than a professional angler who fishes more than 150 days a year and spends up to 12 hours a day on the water?

“I’m constantly out there and definitely in the sun all the time,” says Justin Lucas, a 23-year-old pro fisherman with Team National Guard.

There are some simple things you can do, and gear you can use, that are effective while still letting you squeeze every last drop of fun out of summer. Read on and get the lowdown.

SUNSCREEN

“It’s nice to have a good-looking tan, but you also have to think about your skin down the road,” Lucas warns.

The sun’s rays are broken into two types of ultraviolet rays: UVA and UVB. Both are harmful, but UVB rays burn your skin and cause most cases of skin cancer. Covering yourself with clothing and a hat is the best way to avoid sun exposure, but for the parts of your body that are uncovered, wear a sunscreen with a sun protection factor (SPF) of at least 15.

All sunscreens are labeled with an SPF number. The higher the SPF, the longer your skin can last in the sun before it burns (though most experts say anything over SPF 30 doesn’t add much protection). So if you normally burn in about 10 minutes, SPF 15 sunscreen will protect you for about 150 minutes. “I always put sunscreen on first thing in the morning when it’s still dark outside,” he says. “It’s important to put it on at least 20 minutes before your skin is exposed to the sun. Then I reapply it at least two times throughout the day.” Apply plenty of lotion, and pay special attention to your face, ears and neck. Don’t forget the tops of your feet if you’re wearing flip-flops.

The sun is at its strongest between 10 a.m. and 4 p.m. At higher elevation, the sun is even stronger. Water reflects almost 100 percent of UV radiation. Even if your head is covered, the UV rays will still find your face. So be prepared — and be smart.

HATS

A hat can act as your own personal shade tree. One with a four-inch brim will reduce the sun exposure to your head, neck and face by up to 70 percent. For maximum protection, look for a hat made with UPF (the amount of ultraviolet light that penetrates fabric) of 15 or greater.

“A lot of guys I fish with wear sun hats, the ones with the big rounded bills,” Lucas says. “They are good, but for me it’s just easier to wear a regular baseball cap.” Baseball caps are fine, but if you wear one, Lucas says you must remember to put sunscreen on spots a hat won’t cover, like the tops of your ears, cheekbones, the tip of your nose and the back of your neck.

SUNGLASSES

Too much sun can harm your eyes. Prolonged exposure to UVB rays over many years can cause cataracts, a nasty disease that clouds the lenses of your eyes. So protect yourself with a quality pair of sunglasses.

Gear Guy has preached to readers about this in the past: Don’t even think about wearing those cheap drugstore sunglasses. And darker lenses aren’t necessarily better. Make sure you get glasses that are labeled 100 percent UV protection or UV 400.

“The real key to sunglasses when you’re in the outdoors is polarization,” Lucas says. “As fishermen it helps us see into the water, but polarization also drastically reduces glare no matter what you’re doing.”

UV-PROTECTIVE CLOTHING

Last summer, your mom was probably nagging you to wear a T-shirt in the water so you wouldn’t get a sunburn. Well, that only sort of works. A dry cotton T-shirt gives you the protection of only about UPF 8; a wet one offers only approximately half that.

For best protection, wear a shirt that’s designed to protect you even when it’s wet, like the one from O’Neill below. Otherwise, look for stuff that has at least UPF 15.

“Long-sleeve shirts and pants are best,” Lucas says. “They protect your skin and actually keep you cooler, especially the ones that have vents in them.” Stick with light-colored fabrics and those made of lightweight nylon blends that keep you dry while wicking the sweat away from your skin.

Doing it right means having a backpack that fits all your gear and, more important, fits you. There are some tricks to pack shopping, so we asked Almquist to fill you in.

MEASURE UP

You wouldn’t buy a pair of hiking boots three sizes too big. The same goes for backpacks.

“If you’re not an adult, don’t buy an adult pack,” Almquist says.

In order for you to carry the weight properly, a pack must fit properly. Sure, some guys who are 16 or 17 are already pretty much grown and they need a men’s pack, but most kids don’t.

“Prior to picking a pack, it’s important that you measure yourself,” he says.

The measurement you need is your torso length. Use a soft seamstress tape and have someone measure from the base of your neck (precisely, your C7 vertebrae, the most prominent bone at the base of your neck) straight down your spine until it is level with your hip bone (also called your iliac crest). Most adult packs have a fit range of 18 to 20 inches, while youth packs are more adjustable and fit torso lengths between 14 and 19 inches.

INTERNAL VS. EXTERNAL

There are two types of backpacks: External frames have a metal framework on the outside. Internal-frame packs have their support structure hidden within the pack like a skeleton. External-frame packs are less expensive, provide better ventilation in warm climates and are best for carrying heavy loads on smooth trails. Internal-frame packs are more form-fitting.

“They bring the load closer to your body. They are more comfortable and stable so the load doesn’t shift and is easier to carry off-trail,” Almquist says.

CAPACITY

The amount of gear a pack can hold is measured in either liters or cubic inches. A larger capacity is not always better. Be careful not to overfill your pack and carry too much weight.

“Once fully packed, try to keep your load within 25 to 30 percent of your weight,” Almquist says. “When I was a young Scout, I used to carry too much and struggle.”

A good rule for those not yet full grown: Look for a pack with a capacity of 50 to 65 liters.

BELLS AND WHISTLES

Naturally, the comfort of a pack’s shoulder straps and hipbelt are among the most important considerations, but thoughtful extras and handy accessories are worth mentioning. Some packs have built-in pockets for hydration reservoirs; others have a removable top that can be carried as a fanny pack for day hikes.

“Make sure the pack has enough exterior pocketing to handle your on-trail needs,” Almquist says.

And look for compression straps that help keep your load in place when the pack isn’t totally filled up.

HOW MUCH TO SPEND?

“You could spend $400 on a big brand-name pack, but if you target somewhere in the $150 range, you’re going to get something very good,” Almquist says. “There’s really no reason to spend more than that.”

WHERE TO BUY?

Shop at an outdoors specialty store with a knowledgeable sales staff who can help fit you with the right backpack.

“Try on at least three packs and then spend the time having each adjusted properly by the sales staff,” Almquist recommends.

Fill the pack with gear to simulate the sort of weight you’ll be carrying on the trail and spend at least 30 minutes walking around the store fully loaded. The hipbelt should rest on your hipbones, not your waist, and the shoulder straps should come within three or four inches of your armpit when cinched down tight. Don’t be swayed by color or name brand. Pick the one that fits best.

As an elite mountaineer, Haley makes smart decisions both high atop mountain peaks as well as in the local outfitter store. Haley knows plenty about shell jackets, so we asked him to help us out with this Guy Gear buyer’s guide.

THE LOW DOWN

There are two types of shell jackets. Hard shells are what most people think of when they talk about outdoor jackets. These are lightweight hooded jackets designed to keep out wind and rain. Standard rain slickers are considered hard shells, too, but we’re focusing on hard shells that are also breathable, meaning they wick sweat away from your body.

“If you’re wearing something that doesn’t breathe, you’re going to sweat and get all the rest of your insulation wet because none of the moisture is going to be able to leave,” Haley says. “Soft shells are woven jackets that are wind- and water-resistant and totally breathable.”

Many soft shells use a durable water-repellent (a.k.a. DWR) coating on the jacket’s surface to make it shed rain.

One For All? If you can afford only one jacket, which type should you buy?

“I would recommend a simple lightweight hard shell,” Haley says. Hard shells are necessary equipment for heavy wind and wet weather because a soft shell simply won’t give you the needed protection. That said, if you can afford both, a soft shell is ideal for about 80 percent of your outdoor activities, and you can keep a lightweight, waterproof hard shell in your backpack for the nasty weather.

Hard vs. Soft: “Soft shells are generally more supple and more breathable but less windproof and less waterproof,” Haley says. “Hard shells typically don’t fit quite as nice, but they’re usually more waterproof, more windproof and lighter weight.”

Waterproof/Breathable: These are marketing words you’ll hear used to describe hard shells. Usually these jackets are built with two to three layers of material, including a special membrane layer that keeps weather out while letting your sweat escape.

“A common misconception when people are looking for a shell jacket is they think they need to see the words 100 percent waterproof on the tag,” Haley says. “Depending on your activity you might want a decent amount of waterproofness, but don’t get hung up on it.”

Also, there are a wide variety of waterproof/breathable materials on the market. Some are more heavily advertised than others, but often the generic or “house brand” waterproof/breathable fabrics offered by manufacturers will work just as well for you. Gore-Tex, for example, is a fine product, but it’s only one of many waterproof/breathable fabrics.

Fit: “You want a shell jacket to be decently trim. You don’t want it to be bulking out and getting in the way of your mobility,” Haley says. “To make sure it fits right, raise your arms over your head and make sure the bottom of the shell jacket doesn’t come up above your waist.”

For hard shells, see that you have enough room to layer it over a fleece. Soft shells should be more formfitting. If you’ll be wearing a backpack waist belt or climbing harness, consider how the jacket may interfere with that.

The hood: “A really well-designed hood that lets you see well is something a lot of people probably don’t think about a lot,” Haley says. “But it’s really important because with poorly designed hoods, you can barely do anything. Every time you turn your head you’re looking into the side of the hood.”

Look for a hood that has good coverage, can fit over a climbing helmet (if you’ll be climbing) and is able to cinch down tight to your face so it doesn’t obstruct your view.

Bells and whistles: MP3 pockets, hydration bladders, pit-zips, etc. You’ll see tricked-out shells in the stores with these things, but Haley says keep it simple. “Don’t look for tons of bells and whistles and extra features. Most of the best shell jackets are quite simple. My ideal jacket is really lightweight and just has a well-designed hood, two chest pockets and no pit-zips.”

Try before you buy: “You can probably find good jackets online,” Haley says, “but I think if people have a place where they can buy a jacket in person, it’s always best because they can try it on.”

Hopefully, you have the first-aid training and supplies needed to care for your friend. If not, earn your First Aid merit badge ASAP — and read on. We hooked up with Dr. Eric Weiss, an Eagle Scout and one of the premier authorities on wilderness medicine, to teach you all you need to know about first-aid kits.

THE LOW DOWN

Build it or buy it? “The biggest advantage to building your own kit is knowing exactly what you have in your kit and where it is inside,” Dr. Weiss says. The hard part is buying everything you need in small enough sizes to keep your first-aid kit light and compact.

But buying a prepackaged kit costs less, requires no set up time and usually comes in a specially designed storage bag with handy pockets and compartments.

“If you buy a commercially made kit, just make sure you take everything out of it and then put it back in so you’re familiar with all of the components,” he says. “Understand what each item is used for so you’ll be prepared.”

Price: You’ll save money by buying a kit. “As little as $10 to $25 should take care of it,” Dr. Weiss says. Look for one that’s well organized. “This eliminates the hunt-and-search,” he explains. “In an emergency, you want anyone to be able to open the kit and quickly find what they need.”

Customizing a kit: “The type of medical kit and supplies you bring will be dependent on your group size, trip duration and remoteness,” Dr. Weiss says. “For remote locations you’ll need to rely on your group’s resources, and your medical kit should be stocked with supplies to treat a much wider range of injuries or illnesses than for a day hike in the woods.”

Make a list of the types of activities you do most often and the sort of places you most often go and how long you’ll be gone, then build or buy a kit to fit.

What every kit should include: “Don’t forget to pack a first-aid manual,” he says. Nothing takes the place of first-aid training, but it’s important to have a good manual that you can turn to in an emergency.

Beyond that, you’ll want to include supplies to treat the most common outdoor injuries — stuff like moleskin for blisters, tweezers for splinters, bandages, antibiotic ointment and antiseptic towelettes for cuts and scrapes, ibuprofen for aches and pain, and antihistamines for allergic reactions.

What you should leave out: Skip the instant ice packs, Dr. Weiss says. “They’re heavy and only provide about 15 minutes of cold therapy. To properly treat a sprained ankle, you need to ice the injured area every 30 minutes. Use ice from a cooler, snow or cold water from a river or lake if you need to improvise.”

And forget the hydrogen peroxide—it’s so strong it kills the germs and living tissue, so it’ll just take longer for your wound to heal. “The only solution you need to clean wounds is clean drinking water or a dilute povidone-iodine solution if the wound is particularly dirty,” he says.

Keep your kit current: “Make a contents list so you can keep an inventory of items in your kit,” he says. “And as my mom always said: Put your name and phone number on it.” Get into the habit of checking your kit before every outing. If any medicines and ointments have expired or have been used up, replace them. And make sure nothing is wet or spoiled.

BUILD IT YOURSELF

As it says in the “First Aid” merit badge pamphlet, “The worst first-aid kit is the one that never gets made.” Make sure that doesn’t happen by buying a good kit like those shown here or building one yourself.

At Home: Gather these materials and keep them in a handy spot in the house:

• First-aid manual, like the “First Aid” merit badge pamphlet
• 2 2-inch gauze bandages
• Roll of 1-inch adhesive tape
• 12 3-by-3-inch sterile pads
• 12 assorted adhesive bandages
• 2 elastic bandages, 3 to 6 inches wide
• Thermometer
• Scissors
• Tweezers
• Box antiseptic wipes with benzalkonium chloride
• 2 pairs latex gloves
• Safety pins
• Calamine lotion
• Eye goggles
• Mouth-barrier device
• Small bottle antihistamines (Benadryl)
• Small bottle acetaminophen for pain and fever
• Small bottle ibuprofen for inflammation, muscle aches, pain and fever

For the Trail: This kit should cover one patrol on a typical outing:

• First-aid manual, like the “First Aid” merit badge pamphlet
• 1 2-inch roller bandage
• 2 1-inch roller bandages
• 2 rolls of 1-inch adhesive tape
• 6 alcohol swabs
• Water purification tablets
• 12 assorted adhesive bandages
• 2 elastic bandages, 3 to 6 inches wide
• 12 3-by-3-inch sterile pads
• Antiseptic towelettes
• 2 triangular bandages, 40-inch
• 2 3-by-4-inch nonadherent sterile dressings
• 5-by-9-inch trauma pad to stanch bleeding
• Moleskin
• 3 butterfly closure bandages
• Petroleum jelly
• Antibiotic ointment
• Insect repellent
• Scissors
• Tweezers
• Safety pins
• Aloe vera gel for sunburn
• 2 pairs latex gloves
• Mouth-barrier device

INDIVIDUAL FIRST-AID KITS

One of these should be in every pack:

REI Hiker First Aid Kit ($28) This fold-out kit has 11 organizer pockets packed with all the basics for day hikes. Weight: 12.5 oz. (www.boyslife.org/links/rei or 1-800-426-4840)

Adventure Medical Kits Light and Fast Trail ($26) A lightweight kit with simple-to-follow E-Z Care instructions that organizes supplies based on the type of injury. Weight: 12 oz.

(www.boyslife.org/links/amkits or 1-800-324-3517)

Scout Camper First Aid Kit ($19) This is the smallest and most affordable kit here with a pared-down collection of first-aid basics packed inside a plastic case. Weight: 3 oz. (www.boyslife.org/links/scoutstuff or 1-800-323-0736)

FOR THE PATROL (for 5 to 9 Scouts)

One of these can be shared by a patrol:

REI Backpacker First Aid Kit ($42) A great value for the price, this kit includes a wide-range of first-aid supplies (plenty for your patrol) and is ideal for a multi-day backcountry outing. Weight: 1 lb. 9 oz. (www.boyslife.org/links/rei or 1-800-426-4840)

Atwater Carey Expedition Kit ($55) Designed for backcountry trips of up to 10 days, the Expedition Kit includes all of the necessary basics for your patrol’s first-aid needs. Weight: 15 oz. (www.boyslife.org/links/atwatercarey or 1-800-558-6614)

Adventure Medical Kits Weekender ($60) The name of this kit is a little misleading because this well-stocked rig can handle groups of six for backcountry outings lasting up to a week. Also includes simple-to-follow E-Z Care first-aid instructions. Weight: 1 lb. 7 oz. (www.boyslife.org/links/scoutstuff or 1-800-323-0736)

KITS FOR AN ENTIRE TROOP

Give one or two of these to your Scoutmaster to haul:

Adventure Medical Kits Comprehensive ($190) The most complete kit here, the Comprehensive is designed for groups of up to 14 on multi-week expeditions and even comes with a smaller, detachable ultralight and waterproof kit for summit attempts. Weight: 3 lbs. 4 oz. (www.boyslife.org/links/amkits or 1-800-324-3517)

Atwater Carey Pro Series 3.0 ($100) A less-expensive and lighter-weight option — though also slightly less comprehensive — this kit is well suited for multi-week care for groups of up to eight Scouts. Weight: 2 lbs. 1 oz. (www.boyslife.org/links/atwatercarey or 1-800-558-6614)

If you’re prepared, you have a backup light.

“Lighting is the most critical piece of equipment for caving,” says Kass Kastning, 29, an Eagle Scout and expert caver. “Always have at least three light sources with you.”

Reliable lighting is just as important for hiking and backpacking, too. So we asked Kastning to shed some light (sorry, we couldn’t resist) on what you need to consider before buying a new flashlight or headlamp.

THE LOWDOWN

Lights come in many shapes and sizes. Handheld flashlights are the most common. They are versatile because you can easily direct the light and focus it closer to the ground when hiking.

“I like smaller flashlights when I’m outdoors,” Kastning says. “They are lightweight, and you can throw them in your daypack in case you need light.”

Headlamps are like flashlights you wear on your head. Headlamps are the standard for cavers — and any other outdoorsman who need to have their hands free for climbing and handling gear. Battery-powered lanterns are used to light up larger areas for cooking and hanging around camp. Finally, signal lights are flashlights that come with several different colored lights and special blinking options that can help you call for help when necessary.

PRICE

“You can buy a cheap flashlight at a discount store, but that might not be such a good choice,” Kastning says.

You get what you pay for. Cheap lights usually are not durable and won’t last long. Expect to spend at least $10 to $15 to get a quality flashlight. Headlamps are more expensive — you can get an entry-level headlamp for about $20 to $25.

SIZE AND WEIGHT

“Big flashlights usually shine brighter, but they also weigh more,” warns Kastning.

If you mainly keep the light in your pack for emergencies or for getting around camp at night, get a smaller light. Some of the newer, more expensive small lights can pack as much power as the older big ones.

BATTERIES

Bigger flashlights require bigger, heavier batteries — and that spells more weight you’ll have to carry on the trail. That’s why Kastning likes smaller flashlights with AA batteries. In general, big batteries hold more power and last longer.

Most flashlights use alkaline batteries, but if you can afford lithium batteries, they last up to 10 years. Rechargeable batteries are another choice to consider since they are better for the environment, but they don’t hold their charge as long as other types.

BRIGHTNESS

Think about what you’ll be using your light for. If you just want a light to read by in camp, consider a small flashlight or tiny lantern with LED lights. If you need it for hiking or mountain biking, a bright headlamp with a halogen or Xenon bulb might be a better choice.

DURABILITY

“Consider getting a light that can withstand being dropped on rocks or in a stream,” Kastning says. “Ask yourself: Over a few camping trips will it be able to hold up to wear and tear?”

If the light is made of aircraft-grade aluminum or super-strong plastic, the answer is yes.

It’s also best to pick a model with a push-button switch because lights with sliding buttons can accidentally be turned on in your pack, killing the batteries or bulb — and leaving you with no light.

The feeling of freedom is what attracts lots of guys to skiing and snowboarding in the first place. Once they try it, they’re hooked.

Having the right equipment can make the difference between spending your days shredding the slopes or scraping yourself up off the snow. There are a few things you should know before you go ski and snowboard shopping, and Deneen and 17-year-old pro snowboarder Johnny Lazzareschi will fill you in.

THE LOW DOWN

Whether you’re a skier or snowboarder, the first thing you need to do is decide which type of riding you think you’ll be doing the most. There are two main types of skis: freestyle and all-mountain. Same goes for snowboards.

“Freestyle boards are best for sliding rails and doing jumps,” Lazzareschi says. Slightly longer, all-mountain boards (also called freeride) are designed to be ridden all over the mountain and in all sort os snow conditions.

Next, be smart about where you shop. Snow-specific specialty shops will give you the best service in selecting your gear, though better deals can be had online or in big sporting goods stores.

“But don’t just go to one shop and buy all your stuff there without shopping around first,” Lazzareschi warns. Also, if you can wait until the off-season you can usually find really good deals, especially at the big stores with lots of inventory.

“The best time to buy skis is in the off-season, like March. That’s when stuff starts going on sale,” Deneen says.

Finally, if you’re not sure what sort of skis or board you want, renting can be a good way to go. Some shops have a fleet of demos so you can try the latest and greatest models, while some even offer full-season lease options that rent you an entire kit (boots, bindings, and skis or snowboard) for around $150.

SKIS

Price: $400-$800

Length: Skis should be your height or barely taller.

Width: Pick a ski with a waist of 70 to 80 mm for all-mountain skiing.

Flex: Soft to medium flex is best for beginner/intermediates. Stiff for more aggressive skiers.

Bindings: Will cost $150 to $300.

Boots: Fits from a half-size to a full-size smaller than street shoes. Try injected foam liners for a better fit. $300 to $600.

SNOWBOARDS

Price: $250-$500

Length: Board should come up to between your chin and forehead.

Width: Your feet should be just about flush with the edge of the board, not hanging over the side.

Flex: Choose more flex if you’ll be doing freestyle moves in the park/pipe; more stiffness for all-mountain riding.

Bindings: Pick strap bindings (not step-ins); should cost $125 to $200.

Boots: Fits half-size smaller than street shoes. $150 to $250.

WEAR A HELMET

“It’s kind of the coolest thing on the mountain now — everybody wears a helmet,” freestyle skier Patrick Deneen says. “Even if you’re just going to go slow, you’re definitely going to get hit. I’ve seen them save lives.

THE LOWDOWN

There are two main types of mountain bikes: full suspension and hardtail. Bikes with full suspension have shock absorbers on both the front and rear for a softer, easier ride on really rough trails. They’re also the most expensive. Hardtails have suspension only on the front fork. This type is generally more durable, requires less maintenance and is a great choice for most riders.

Mountain bikes also come with either rim or disc brakes. Unless you’re an advanced rider, choose a bike with rim-style brakes, the most common and easiest to service.

No matter what sort of bike you’re looking for, here are a few tips to keep in mind:

WHERE TO SHOP

“Look beyond department store bikes and go to your local bike shop,” says pro rider Jeremy Horgan-Kobelski, the reigning mountain bike national champion. “The salespeople there will be so much more knowledgeable and there’s a huge step up in quality of bikes.”

When talking to salespeople, be honest about your biking skills and where you plan to ride. That way, they can point you toward the best bike for your skill level.

PRICE

Sure, you may see a really cool-looking, full-suspension bicycle for $150 at a department store, but odds are it’ll be really heavy and not very durable. Expect to spend at least $300 to get a good quality, entry-level mountain bike, Kobelski says. For more experienced riders, check out bikes in the $500 to $700 range. Those models will likely be lighter, more durable and outfitted with higher quality gears and components.

QUALITY

As you push the pedals, it’s the bike’s components (gears and other moving parts) that move you down the trail. But if you buy a bike with poor-quality components, you probably won’t get very far. Look for quality component brand names like Shimano, Sun Tour, SRAM and Bontrager.

FIT

Someone at the shop should help you find the correct bike for your size.

“The most important measurement is the stand-over height,” Kobelski says. “Stand over the top tube and pick the bike up. See how much clearance you have — how high you can pick it up.”

You should have at least a couple of inches of room, so you can hop on and off easily. It’ll also make the bike more maneuverable. Make sure the salesman gets you fitted perfectly. And look for a bike with an adjustable-height seat so the bike can grow with you.

TEST DRIVE

Before you buy a bike, ride as many different models as you can. Kobelski recommends doing tight turns and sprinting on the bike. Try to ride up a couple of curbs, too. Pay special attention to how the bike turns and shifts.

THE BIKER’S ESSENTIALS

Don’t leave home for a ride without these important pieces of biking gear:

• Helmet
• Water Bottle
• Tire pump
• Extra inner tube and/or patch kit
• Tire and chain tools
• Bike shorts (optional)
• Gloves
• Glasses/goggles (optional)

THE LOWDOWN

The type of skateboard you choose depends on the kind of skating you plan on doing. There are three main styles of boards: street, park/ramp and longboards.

The first two types are similar but with different sizes of wheels. Longboards are — you guessed it — longer and better for cruising and making big, wide turns.

To help you pick the right skateboard, we asked 14-year-old pro skating sensation Ryan Sheckler to fill us in on the ins and outs of shopping for a new board.

WHERE TO SHOP

“If you’re going out to buy a skateboard you should go to your local skate shop,” Sheckler says.

The local shop will have a wider variety of boards and the salespoeple are more knowledgeable about skating than at sporting goods or department stores.

“At the skate shop, they’ll just ask you what you want and if you don’t know, they’ll tell you what’s good.”

PRICE

Sure, you can get a skateboard for $35, but “you’ll be getting a board that’s heavy and that’s not going to be very fast,” Sheckler warns. “If you want to get a legit street board it’ll be in the range of $100 to $180.”

That’s the price for a “complete” or, in other words, a board that’s already put together for you. As you get more advanced you’ll probably want to buy the parts individually and put together your own board.

QUALITY

Besides being heavier, slower and less durable, cheap skateboards can be dangerous — parts can break and cause wipeouts. If you’re planning to just tool around the neighborhood, a cheap board may be fine. But if you’ll be skating a lot and you’re looking to learn tricks, it’s worth investing in a quality board.

DECKS

Most skateboard decks are make of seven layers of plywood glued together. Sheckler says all decks are similar, with the same shape, a length of 31 to 32.5 inches and a width of 7.5 to 8 inches. Smaller boards are better for tricks, wider boards are easier to carve in ramps. The big difference is graphics.

“Pretty much all decks are the same, so sometimes you just buy a board because it has a cool graphic on the bottom,” Sheckler says.

Most decks cost $50 to $60.

TRUCKS

The axles that hold your wheels to the board are called trucks. They let you turn the board, and they are the surface you grind on for tricks like rail slides. Sheckler says all trucks are similar, though some are lighter or more durable.

“You can make a truck work however you want to make them work,” he says.

Tighten the trucks for flip tricks, loosen them for carving. Expect to pay $30 to $50 for a pair of trucks.

WHEELS

The single most important part of your board is the set of wheels. Wheel size is measured in millimeters, and the bigger the wheel the faster you’ll go. For street skating, Sheckler recommends 49 mm to 54 mm wheels. For ramps and pools, stick with 58 mm to 62 mm.

The other thing to keep in mind is the durometer, or hardness, of the wheel. The softer the wheel the more forgiving it is. For instance, E.G. Fratantaro, Team Manager for Sector 9 Skateboards, says a durometer of 78A to 87A is best for rough surfaces with rocks and cracks; a 97A or higher is better for smooth surfaces like ramps and skate parks. Dual-durometer wheels combine a hard center and soft outer edges for all-around performance.

You’ll spend $25 to $40 for a set of four wheels. The total for your do-it-yourself board: $105 to $150.

DON’T LEAVE HOME WITHOUT THESE

Add these to your skateboarding shopping list (and always wear them):

• Helmet
• Elbow pads
• Knee pads

Pick the wrong tent for the job and your trip to the Great Outdoors might not be so great.

So to give you the inside line on buying a new tent, whether it’s a backpacking model or a group shelter for you and five fellow Scouts, we turned to world-renowned rock climber Tommy Caldwell, who spends more than 80 nights a year sleeping in tents. “On those expeditions, your tent ends up being your little home,” he says.

Here are the rules to pick the best “home” for your next outing.

THE LOW-DOWN

Pick a design that fits your needs. Tents come in all shapes and sizes. Backpacking tents are most often shaped like domes, tunnels or wedges. Group shelters (or car-camping tents) are generally domes or rectangles with straight (or semi-straight) walls. Some tents are freestanding, meaning they can stand on their own without stakes, while others require guy lines and stakes for setup.

“You want the tent to be built for how you’re going to use it,” Caldwell says. “Mountaineers like dome tents because they’re the sturdiest and best in multi-direction heavy winds.”

Domes are also freestanding and roomy but tend to be heavier than other designs. Wedges are usually the lightest weight but not so roomy. Tunnels provide good space for their weight and are generally well suited for bad weather. A good rule: The more poles the tent has, the sturdier it’ll be.

Don’t underestimate the importance of space and weight. Though some people prefer tiny solo tents, Caldwell recommends picking a tent that’s at least big enough for you to sit up inside.

“I made the mistake once of going on a two-month trip with a one-man tent the size of a coffin,” he says, laughing.

Solo tents should have between 15 and 25 square feet of space. For larger tents, add another 10 to 15 square feet per person. When evaluating space, also consider the square footage of any attached vestibules, which are like little garages for storing backpacks, boots, even your dog.

Weight doesn’t matter as much for car-camping tents, but if you’re backpacking, obviously you’ll want the lightest tent that’s still large enough for your needs. Aim for a tent that weighs no more than four to five pounds per person. When backpacking with a group, the best strategy is to share a tent—and the pack weight — with your buddy. One guy carries the tent body while the other carries the poles and rain fly.

Don’t overspend. Why buy an ultralight, tricked-out $500 tent when the $150 model will work just fine? In general, the higher the price tag, the lighter-weight and more durable the tent and its poles will be.

Naturally, durability is important, says Caldwell: “I’ve trashed a lot of tents in my lifetime.”

And just think: That $75 tent might seem like a great deal now, but if it wears out and you have to buy a new one every season, where’s the savings in that?

Do not confuse seasons. Most tents are designed for three-season use. That means they will handle the temperatures and weather of spring, summer and fall. Four-season tents are sturdier and designed for camping in snow, but they are usually heavier and less breathable.

Look for breathability. Airflow is your friend.

“For camping in warm weather you’ll want a tent that’s going to breathe and be vented,” Caldwell says.

Look for a tent with plenty of mesh panels and vents that promote airflow. For rainy conditions, make sure there’s ample space between the rain fly and the tent.

Without proper airflow, you’ll roast and “get a lot of condensation that’ll create a little rainstorm inside your tent,” Caldwell says.

Even if your tent is freestanding, you still must stake it out properly for maximum airflow and to avoid pesky leaks and condensation. Unless you’re winter camping, stay away from single-walled tents (which are notoriously less breathable and lack mesh and large vents).

Try before you buy. “It’s always a good idea to set up a tent before you buy it,” Caldwell says. “Otherwise it’s hard to get an idea of what it looks like.” So pitch the tent and crawl inside. If the salespeople won’t let you, go to another store.

Besides checking for space, pitching it in the store will give you a better idea of how easy it is to set up. Tents with hub-style poles and color-coded quick clips will be simplest—and quickest—to pitch.

You can’t sleep. It’s freezing, so you try to crawl inside your sleeping bag as deep as you can — leaving only a little opening for your mouth to breathe. Or maybe it’s kind of warm out. You’re too toasty inside the bag but too cold without it.

The trick to foolproof camp z-z-z’s is picking the right sleeping bag for the weather conditions. So we asked Terry Schocke for some help. This man knows his sleeping bags. As director of programs at the BSA’s Northern Tier National High Adventure Bases in northern Minnesota, Schocke helps Scouts prepare for sticky summers, bitter to-the-bone winters and everything in between.

Here’s what he says to consider when buying your next bag:

PRICE

There’s a wide range. Quality backpacking bags can be found for $75 to $150. Double that price if you’re looking for a down-filled bag. In the $30 to $60 range you’ll find bags that are heavier and won’t pack down quite as well.

“A good rule of thumb is, the more you spend, the more compressible and lightweight the sleeping bag will be,” Schocke says.

DOWN VS. SYNTHETIC

The stuff inside a sleeping bag that keeps you warm is called insulation. There are two main types: down (as in goose down) and synthetic, which is man-made insulation with brand names like Quallofil, PrimaLoft and Fiberfill.

“Compared with synthetic bags, down is more compressible, durable and lighter for the same warmth,” Schocke says. “But it doesn’t handle moisture well and is tougher to care for.”

Schocke recommends that Scouts stick with synthetic bags because they work well, are simple to care for (machine washable) and are much less expensive.

TEMP RATINGS

Most bags have a temperature rating on the tag. It’ll say something like: +30° or -20°. This tells you, roughly, the minimum temperature that will be comfortable while in that bag.

“It’s important to know there’s no industry standard about how they determine temperature ratings,” Schocke says. “Those are just generic guidelines.”

Also, keep in mind how you sleep — temperature-wise, that is. Are you a hot sleeper? Or do you always seem to be colder than your friends? If you’re a cold sleeper, for example, go with a bag that’s rated for colder temperatures.

SHAPE

Sleeping bags come in two main shapes: rectangle and mummy. Rectangular bags are roomier, giving you more room to roll around and are best for summer camping. They also weigh more and don’t pack down as well. Mummy bags are best for colder conditions. They hug your body, and most come with a hood you can cinch down over your head.

“The tighter it fits, the warmer it’s going to be,” Schocke says. “It’s best to get the smallest bag you can feel comfortable in.”

That way your body doesn’t waste energy trying to heat up a lot of extra space. However, you don’t want it so tight that it restricts circulation or compressibility. And in winter you may want a little extra space in the foot area to keep boots warm, dry out gloves or to keep a water bottle from freezing.

WEIGHT & COMPRESSIBILITY

If you’re backpacking, it’s important to find a bag that’s lightweight and compressible. The most compressible bags can be stuffed until slightly larger than a volleyball. Sleeping bags can be made to take up less space in your pack by using a compression stuff sack.

Outdoor survival expert Peter Kummerfeldt will show you how.

THE LOWDOWN

There are several types of knives. Kummerfeldt’s favorite, fixed blades, are no-nonsense knives with a beefy handle and stationary blade.

“You need a knife to accomplish the everyday tasks you come across in the outdoors, from whittling on things and cutting materials to spreading peanut butter on your sandwiches,” he says. “And a short, no more than four-inch-long, fixed-blade knife will accomplish all of that.” Avoid large sheath knives; they are heavy and awkward to carry.

Then there are all-purpose folding pocketknives. Most come with tools such as a can opener, screwdriver, tweezers and, of course, knife blades — all in one compact package. Though they can be extremely handy, Kummerfeldt says a downside is the knife blade doesn’t lock into place, so it may fold up on your hand while you’re using it.

Lockbacks are simple folding knives with a single blade that can be locked. So you get the benefits of a sturdy fixed blade-style knife but in a convenient pocket-size package that can be folded open with just one hand.

You’ll also find specialty knives such as river rescue knives with serrated blades for slicing rope, whittling knives designed for carving wood, and multi-tools, which are compact, handheld tool boxes. Most are built around a pair of folding pliers.

BLADES

Most blades are made from strong and durable stainless steel. Blades are available in straight edge, serrated (jagged like a saw) or both. Bigger is not always better. A small, sharp four-inch-or-smaller blade can cut just as well as bigger knives but is much safer to handle and easier to maneuver in tight spots.

PRICE & QUALITY

You don’t have to spend a fortune to get a quality tool.

“My $15 knife does everything I want it to do,” Kummerfeldt says.

As prices go up, you’ll see small improvements in the quality and size of the blade.

CARE & MAINTENANCE

“The only good knife is a sharp knife,” Kummerfeldt says. “A blunt knife requires you to put so much force on it that it could slip, and you could drive the blade into your leg.”

As needed, run the edge of your blade across a sharpening stone a few times. Wipe the tool clean after every use and lubricate any hinges with a light oil like WD-40.

CARRY IT

Kummerfeldt says the smartest, safest place to stash your knife is in an easy-access spot in your backpack. You’re asking for trouble by wearing a fixed-blade knife on your belt. If you fall, the knife could rotate inward and you could land right on the blade.

As a top freestyle BMX (bicycle motocross) pro, Young was grinding a handrail for a video when something went wrong.

His tire slid out and Young went over the handlebars, landing on his head and fracturing his skull in three places. He spent the next week in the hospital (including two days in intensive care), but luckily he recovered fully.

Now, Young is a full-on helmet believer, and he’s here to fill you in on the brain bucket buying basics.

THE LOWDOWN ON BUYING A HELMET

Certification: Buy only a helmet that is certified for the activity you’ll be using it for.

All bicycle helmets are required by law to meet the certification standards of the Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC). Skateboarding helmets aren’t required to be certified, but you should still insist on buying one that meets ASTM standard F 1492. Some helmets are dual-certified, meaning they are designed to protect you from a fall from a bicycle as well as multiple impacts dished out while skateboarding or inline skating.

“Just check for the sticker inside the helmet with the certification on it, and get one that looks cool and works for what you’re going to use it for,” Young says.

What to look for: Take a look at the helmet’s design. The safest helmets are those that are rounded without any snag points sticking out that could hurt you during a fall.

Vents are good for keeping your head cool, but more vents equal less foam and, possibly, less protection. So pick a helmet with no more vents than you think you’ll need.

Finally, if you’ll be cycling or skating around traffic, choose a brightly colored helmet so you’ll be easier for drivers to see.

The Proper Fit: “You should just have a snug fit,” Young recommends, “but not so tight that it’s crushing your skull.”

Some helmets come with removable foam inserts to customize a snug fit. With the helmet level on your head, use your fingers to measure the space between your eyebrows and the helmet.

“You shouldn’t have any more than two fingers of space above your eyebrows, and you don’t want it flopping down over your eyes either,” Young says.

Strap is key: Always buckle your helmet.

“It only takes a second to strap it on. And if you fall and it’s not strapped, the helmet isn’t going to stay on,” Young says. “Plus, you’re not looking any cooler wearing it without the strap.”

How much it’ll cost: These days, some high-end helmets can cost up to $200, but don’t worry: you can get a safe cool-looking one for much less.

Try before you buy: Whether you go to a bike or skate shop or a big superstore, it’s important that you try on a bunch of different helmets to find the one that fits your head best. Salespeople in small specialty shops can help you find the optimum fit; in big stores you’re usually on your own.

Either way, don’t just pick one that looks cool, Young says. “If you’re going to wear a helmet, you might as well have the safest one.”

LEARN MORE!

Log onto the Bicycle Helmet Safety Institute’s Web site at Helmets.org to find out everything there is to know about helmet safety.

If you could see that well, what would you do?

Besides zooming in on birds and other wildlife, you could use your super vision to check out a campsite from a long way off, or see the stitches on a baseball as your favorite pitcher hurls it toward home plate.

With binoculars, all of that is within reach. But first you have to pick the right pair for the job. It’s easy if you know what to look for—and what to look out for. To make the shopping easier we hooked up with Jim Wilson, an award-winning birder (you might call him a Super Bird-Watcher).

Here are Wilson’s tips:

THE LOWDOWN

Binoculars are like a pair of telescopes strapped side-by-side. Here’s basically how they work: A pair of convex (or curved) lenses bring the image closer while a pair of prisms (like chunks of glass) flip the image so what shows up in front of your eyes is a true—and much zoomed in—version of what you’re looking at.

There are three sizes of binoculars: standard, compact and pocket. Standard binoculars provide the best magnification and clarity, though they can be bulky and heavy. Compact binoculars are smaller and more manageable while still providing relatively good performance. Pocket binoculars are small enough to fit into a pocket but won’t provide as much magnification and clarity.

PRICE

In general, the more you spend the better the optical quality. Sure, there are $1,000 binoculars, but you can still get a good pocket pair for around $50. About $300 will get you a pair of quality full-size binoculars that should be all you’ll need for many years.

SIZE MATTERS

When shopping for binoculars, you’ll see numbers like 7×32 and 8×42. The first number refers to the magnification, so a 7-power binocular gives you roughly seven times your normal eye’s power. The second number is the size of the lens in millimeters. The wider the lens, the more light that comes through, so the brighter the image appears. When it comes to magnification, more isn’t always better.

“The higher the magnification, the more shake you’ll get while handholding them,” Wilson says. “You’ll also have less of a wide field of view,” meaning you’ll zero in and see less of the overall scene. Look for binoculars in the 7 to 8 power range.

Anything over 10 will require a tripod to keep them steady.

GOOD GLASS

The difference between models in binoculars often comes down to lens coatings. “A lot of coatings give you higher contrast for a sharper image and more definition between colors,” Wilson says. If you can afford it, choose fully coated optics.

FIND YOUR FIT

“One of the most important things is how they feel,” Wilson says. “Does your finger sit comfortably on the focus wheel? Does the distance between your eyes match the eyepiece?” Also, if you’re a small guy, don’t pick a huge pair of binoculars that are so heavy they weigh you down. If they aren’t comfortable, you won’t want to use them.

SEEING IS BELIEVING

“Try before you buy,” Wilson says. Go to a store that sells lots of binoculars and try as many as you can. Focus on things way across the store and look out the window. Online stores are fine, but Wilson recommends making your final purchase at a local store. “You want to test out the exact pair you’ll be buying because optical quality can vary even between two pairs of the same binoculars.”

With so many things to consider we decided to ask Mead, an award-winning tent designer, to give us the inside scoop on buying a backpacking tent.

DESIGN: Tents come in many shapes like domes, tunnels and wedges. Some are freestanding, meaning they can stand on their own without stakes. Others require guy lines and stakes for set-up.

Dome tents are popular because they are freestanding and roomy, but they tend to be heavier than other designs. Wedges are usually lightweight but less roomy. Tunnels provide good space for their weight and are generally better in bad weather.

“Shape is most important if you’re camping in high wind, heavy rain or snowy conditions,” Mead says.

A good rule: The more poles a tent uses, the sturdier it will be.

Finally, some tent designs are easier to set up than others. Those with pole sleeves, hub-style poles and quick clips will be simplest to pitch.

SPACE AND WEIGHT: The best way to tell if a tent has enough room is to lie down inside. Solo tents usually have 15 to 25 square feet of space. For two- and three-person tents, add an extra 10 to 15 square feet per person. Some tents also have a vestibule that gives you extra space for storing backpacks, boots, even your dog.

“When backpacking, I always recommend taking a tent that can be shared with someone,” he says. “That way you can also share the weight. One Scout carries the tent body while the other carries the pole and rain fly.”

Aim for a tent that weighs no more than three to four pounds per person.

PRICE: “The biggest mistake people make when tent shopping is not matching the tent up with their needs,” Mead says. “Why buy a $500 tent if a $100 model will work just fine for what you’re doing?”

The price difference is usually noticeable in the quality and durability. In general the higher the price tag, the lighter-weight and more durable the tent and its poles will be.

BREATHABILITY: Airflow inside your tent is the key to comfortable sleeping. If you’re camping in hot conditions look for a tent with lots of mesh panels. For rainy conditions, make sure there’s plenty of space between the rain fly and the tent. Without proper airflow, you’ll roast inside.

Even if a tent is freestanding, Mead says it’s essential to stake it out properly. That way you’ll have enough airflow and avoid pesky leaks and condensation on the inside of your tent.

THREE-SEASON VS. FOUR-SEASON: Most tents are designed for three-season use, meaning they’ll work for everything except winter conditions. Four-season tents are sturdier and designed for camping in snow, but Mead says they are often heavier and less breathable.

TRY BEFORE YOU BUY: “Make sure you set the tent up in the store and crawl inside,” he says. “Most stores don’t set up all their tents because of space limitations. But insist on setting it up before you buy it. If they won’t let you, go to another store.”

Pitching it in the store will give you a better idea of how easy it is to set up. You can also make sure that no parts are missing.

“I’ve spent my fair share of time on the trail eating energy bars and bagels,” says Penn Burris, vice president of Backpacker’s Pantry. “But when you’ve backpacked 15 or 20 miles, sitting down to eat something cold that’s not very tasty is really a drag.”

Besides being a former mountain guide and owner of several outdoors gear shops, Burris now spends most of his time at the company finding ways to come up with tastier camp food. He knows tons about cooking with backpacking stoves — and after reading this, you will, too.

THE LOWDOWN

There are two main types of backpacking stoves. Liquid-fuel stoves use a liquid fuel such as white gas or kerosene to cook your food. The stove attaches to a fuel bottle with a small hose and requires you to manually pump it to create fuel pressure. They burn hot and are very reliable, but they also require regular cleaning and maintenance.

Canister or cartridge stoves are small burners that screw on top of butane fuel canisters. The fuel is a pressurized gas, so it’s always ready to burn. A lot of models come with a built-in igniter. Though they are not as reliable in cold conditions, “canister stoves are super easy to use and the best bet for Scouts who are new to backpacking stoves,” Burris says.

PRICE: Expect to spend about $40 for a good canister stove. Liquid-fuel stoves start around $70.

FUEL: You’ll also have to pay for the fuel. Butane gas canisters cost about $3 each. That can add up, because they can’t be refilled and reused. You’ll also have to pack them out of the wilderness when they’re empty. That means on a weeklong trip, they’ll be dead weight clanking around in your backpack. Liquid-fuel stoves run on refillable fuel bottles.

“For $8, you can buy a gallon of white gas that will last you for several seasons,” Burris says. It’s a little messy to refill, but they are cheaper in the long run — and better for the environment because there’s less waste.

CLEANING: Liquid-fuel stoves need to be cleaned regularly. Burris says over time carbon builds up in the stove’s port and prevents it from burning properly. The cleaning isn’t difficult, but it must be done.

“With a canister stove you don’t have the cleaning problem,” he says, “but if something fails, you are less likely to be able to get it repaired.”

WEIGHT VS. DURABILITY: You’ll see some ultra-light backpacking stoves at outdoors stores, but unless you’re experienced with stoves, Burris recommends steering clear of those.

“They’re really just stripped down versions of canister stoves built for adventure racers or ultra-light backpackers,” he says. “The problem is they are more expensive, and because the parts are so lightweight they’re not as durable.”

For your first stove, Burris recommends sticking with a standard canister stove because any extra weight will be more than made up for by its reliability and durability.

COOKING SMART

Stoves help make camp cooking quick and easy, but you have to use them properly. For a complete guide to stove safety, see Chapter 10, “Cooking,” of “The Boy Scout Handbook.” (BSA Supply No. 33105, http://www.scoutstuff.org, 1-800-323-0732)

Picking the right shoes for road- or trail-running is tough stuff. So for some handy tips and tricks we tapped former Boy Scout and ex-running store employee Alan Webb, who also just so happens to be one of the fastest distance runners on Earth.

Whether you’re a beginner or a seasoned runner, read on and we guarantee you’ll learn something from Webb that will make your next trip to the shoe store better than ever.

SHOP FOR THE STORE, NOT THE SHOE

“The best thing to do is try to find a good running specialty store,” Webb says. “Sure, you’ll pay $10 or $15 more than at some big-box shoe store, but you’re getting service and you’re getting the right shoe.” Salespeople at specialty stores will take the time to help you find a shoe that properly fits your type of foot.

KNOW YOUR FOOT

Everybody runs differently, but we all do something called pronating when we run.

Basically, every time your shoe hits the ground your foot rolls from the outer edge to the inner edge. Guys whose feet roll excessively inward are called over-pronators. Those whose feet don’t roll in much at all are called under-pronators.

Most running shoes are designed for one type of foot or the other (and most say so in the printed product details on the tag or box).

A salesperson at a running store can tell you right away what kind of a foot you have. Or try this: Put your old pair of shoes side-by-side on a table, toes pointing away from you, and look at how the cushion has worn down. If the shoes tilt outward you are an under-pronator; if they tilt inward, then you are an over-pronator. If they do neither, you have a neutral gait.

“Figure out what kind of runner you are, then find a shoe that matches your foot,” Webb says. Over-pronators need a shoe with added stability and motion control. Neutral runners and under-pronators are usually best off with a shoe with cushioning that minimizes impact without directing the foot in a specific direction.

ROAD OR TRAIL?

Once you know your foot type, think about where you’ll be running most often. Regular running shoes are best for streets or well-maintained jogging paths, but if you plan on heading off-road on rough or undeveloped trails, go for a trail-runner. Trail-runners are usually heavier but have sturdy knobby soles and additional foot support.

WEATHER OR NOT

Is it hot where you run? If so, look for a lightweight shoe with lots of mesh. Cold and rainy? Then pick a pair made with fabrics such as Gore-Tex that will protect you from cold while keeping your feet dry.

IF THE SHOE FITS….

Some guys, like Webb, prefer their shoes to be tight.

“I wear my shoes at least a half size smaller than most people do,” he says. “I jam my foot inside my shoe, so I’ve grown to like that tight feel.”

But for most, a thumbnail’s width of space past your longest toe and the end of the shoe is fine. Also, make sure you have enough room to wiggle your toes freely. Be careful about buying shoes bigger so you’ll have room to grow into into them, because a loose shoe can cause blisters and foot problems if you’re running often.

TEST DRIVE

Always try on the the shoes before you buy. The best time of day to shop for shoes is the evening, Webb says, because your feet swell throughout the day and are largest late in the day. Try on shoes while wearing the same kind of socks you’ll be wearing when running. Finally, don’t be shy: Run around inside the shop. Do your best to simulate the bouncing and bounding you’ll do while actually running.

Buy cheap sunglasses and you’ll get cheap sunglasses, poorly made ones that won’t offer good vision, won’t last long and, worst of all, might not protect your eyes from the damaging ultraviolet rays of the sun.

But buy quality ones—not necessarily pricey ones—and you’ll take care of your eyesight.

“Anytime you’re in the outdoors, especially around snow, water or rocks, there’s going to be lots of glare and reflection,” professional whitewater kayaker Brad Ludden says. “Since I spend 90 percent of my life outdoors, I’m at risk for eye problems such as establishing cataracts early on. That’s why I wear sunglasses whenever I can.”

Whether you wear shades to protect your eyes or simply to look like a rock star, here’s the good news: Sunglasses can be functional and cool—without you spending a king’s ransom. You just have to be a smart sunglass shopper. Here’s how.

Where to Shop:

“Never shop for shades on a street corner.” Ludden says. “You know, where they sell ‘Jokeleys’ (fake Oakleys).”

Sunglass-specific shops or outdoor stores usually have knowledgeable staff, and you don’t have to worry about buying fake or counterfeit sunglasses.

Plan to spend at least $30 to get a quality pair of sunglasses. Cheaper shades are likely to be of questionable quality. But don’t overdo it, either; over $100, you’re probably just paying for a trendy brand name.

Sport-Specific:

Before you go shopping, consider what you’ll be using your shades for. Look at your hobbies. Are you around the water a lot? Do you love to ski or hike in the snow? Is cycling your thing?

“Figure out what you want before you go in the store,” Ludden says. “Then have them show you a few that match your criteria and fit your face the best.”

The Lens Matters:

For most outdoor sports, shatterproof polycarbonate lenses are best. Glass lenses are recommended only for low-impact activities like fishing or chilling out.

Also, make sure the lens provides 100 percent UV protection from the sun’s harmful rays. Most have a sticker on the lens to let you know.

“If you buy glasses with cheap lenses they can give you headaches, almost like a prescription that’s not right for your eyes,” Ludden warns. “It can also throw off your depth perception, and whether you’re kayaking or mountain biking or whatever, that’s really important. It’s worth spending a little extra money for better lenses.”

Polarization:

Polarization is a lens technology that reduces glare and the dangerous rays that can cause cataracts at a young age.

Get polarized lenses if you spend a lot of time around water or snowy conditions. Insist on glasses with polarization that’s sandwiched between two lenses — avoid those with spray-on polarization (it can wear off over time).”

Frame and Fit: Some frames are metal, but most sports sunglasses have durable and lightweight plastic frames.

Take a look at the frame and make sure the joints are strong. The arms and earpieces should feel sturdy and stay put on your face — but not so tight that it hurts or gives you a headache. The lenses should be close to your face so glare can’t seep in along the sides between your cheeks.

For high-speed sports or extra bright conditions, look for wrap-style shades that provide maximum coverage. Too close to your eye can be bad because you’ll get the dreaded eyelash bash on the lenses.

“You don’t want to know they are on your face,” Ludden says. “You want sunglasses to be so comfortable that you forget about them.”"

Retainers:

Unless there’s a good reason not to wear a strap — say, while mountain biking, where it could snag on a limb — it’s wise to add a retainer. You paid good money for good sunglasses; you don’t want your last look at them to be them sinking to a river bottom.”

“Without clear communication the shot will be missed,” he says, “and unlike Hollywood shoots, there is no second take.”

Whether you’re communicating with your troop at a jamboree or keeping in touch with Mom and Dad in your neighborhood, two-way radios are among the most useful pieces of gear you can carry. But not all radios are created equal, so we asked Collins to give us some smart buying tips.

THE LOWDOWN

Most two-way radios operate on two special radio bands: Family Radio Service (FRS) and General Mobile Radio Service (GMRS). You need a license to use GMRS, so that’s why you might hear most of the two-way radios you’d buy referred to as “FRS radios.” All have 22 channels. Dial in one channel and, with just a push of a button, you can instantly talk with your friend on the same channel—even if he’s miles away.

PRICE: These days, you can find two-way radios for as low as $20 and up to $250. Usually the list price is for a pair of radios, but always check to be sure. In general, the more you spend on a radio, the more features, durability and greater talking range you’ll get. Just $50 should get you a radio that’s plenty good for most Scouts’ uses.

RANGE: Basically, range is the maximum distance you can have between two radios and still be able to communicate. You’ll see range claims plastered all over the packaging, saying things like, “Up to 20 Miles.”

“Be aware of the range that each radio claims,” Collins says. “They list the optimal range, but this does not apply when there are mountains or lots of tall buildings in the way. The range will be significantly smaller when you have these obstructions.”

Manufacturers make their range claims based on line of sight. So for radios with a five-mile range, you’ll only get that sort of distance when you and a buddy are standing in the middle of a wide-open field five miles apart. Throw in trees or valleys and you’ll be lucky to get a mile-and-a-half of range.

FEATURES: Most two-way radios let you communicate between your radio and everyone else in the group with radios on the same channel. But more expensive units include features like direct call, which — like a cell phone — lets you dial a number and communicate privately with just one other person in your group. Radios in the $80 to $100 range often come with a weather radio feature that alerts you automatically if bad weather or other hazards are headed your way. Privacy codes are also an important feature to consider. They scramble your communication to help prevent other people from listening in on your conversations. The more privacy codes, the greater protection you’ll have.

BATTERIES: Some two-way radios are powered by regular alkaline batteries. Others come with rechargeable batteries and charging stands that you can plug in. If you plan to use your radio in the field for more than a couple of days, look for units that let you use both kinds of batteries. “After you’ve had them awhile, rechargeable batteries don’t seem to hold a charge very long—especially in cold weather,” Collins says. “We always carry extra AA batteries just in case.”

“Your body is kind of like a motor, and it needs lubricant. You can’t run a motor without any oil in it,” professional mountain biker Kirt Voreis says. “Same with water and your body. Stay hydrated and your muscles will work better and you can go a lot farther at a faster pace.”

Voreis knows a lot about speed and the importance of regular hydration on performance. That’s why we asked him to give us some buying tips. So read up, fill up and stay hydrated.

THE LOWDOWN: THE RIGHT TOOL FOR THE JOB

Voreis says the first thing to think about is what activity you’ll be doing most. For hiking or camping or hanging at the skatepark, a water bottle or canteen might be perfect. Just carry it in your hand or toss it in your daypack. If you’re doing something like cycling, snowboarding or kayaking in which you need your hands free, consider a hydration pack.

BOTTLES AND CANTEENS

“If you’re hiking or going to stay in one area, the bottle is great,” Voreis says. This is the cheapest option, too. A couple of buying considerations:

Weight: If you’re backpacking, get something lightweight. There are even special collapsible bags that weigh next to nothing.

Taste: Sometimes cheap water bottles and canteens can give your water a strange plastic taste or hold the flavor of something you had in the bottle weeks earlier. Usually those made of very hard polycarbonate plastic are best. Look for the words “taste-free” on the label or ask a shopkeeper in an outfitter store for help.

Seals: Make sure the top screws or pops on tightly.

HYDRATION PACKS

Like a camel, these packs are equipped with a special bladder that lets you carry all your water on your body; you just drink it through a special straw.

“It’s secure on your back, and you don’t have to take your hands off the handlebars to take a drink,” Voreis says.

Plan to spend $30 to $80 for one of these. When picking a pack, first think of how much water you’ll want to carry and how long you’ll be gone. Some hold as little as 30 ounces; the largest can carry up to 100 ounces or more. Most hydration packs have pockets and room for other stuff, and some are as large as a big daypack.

“Don’t buy a big giant pack if you’re just going to be doing jumps all day,” Voreis says. “And if you’re not going to do big epic rides, bring something small that’ll hold just like a cell phone and a bar.”

Finally, you want it to fit snug and not slung low on your lower back, otherwise it’ll cause painful pressure and bounce around like crazy while you’re moving.

IS A BLADDER BEST?

Most manufacturers offer hydration bladders separately rather than built into a special pack. These run as low as $6 and are cool and versatile because you can use them in your backpack and move it to your daypack for shorter trips.

CLEAN IS KEY

This is probably the last thing you want to hear about (especially after having to clean your room, the dishes and Dad’s car), but if you don’t keep your bottle or hydration bladder clean you’ll risk getting sick.

“If you leave water in something for a while, it gets stale and you can also get bad bacteria in it,” Voreis warns.

If you’re lazy, look for something dishwasher-safe. (It should say so on the label.) Bladder systems are notoriously tough to clean. The easiest are ones that have openings large enough for you to stick your hand inside. Some have detachable hoses, but to really get one clean, you may need to buy a special brush, which will cost you an extra $10 or so.

Well, that was then (maybe). This is now (for sure). Because, thanks to things like school buses, snowplows and highly engineered book bags, you’ve got it easy. These days, the hardest part is wading through the endless options. So to help you pick a pack that’ll work best for your needs, we hooked up with Chris Haslam. As a professional skater Haslam travels the world — always armed with his trusty backpack — and he helps his sponsor, Dakine, design its backpacks. Haslam fills us in on what you need to know to make smart backpack buying decisions:

THE LOWDOWN

There are several types of daypacks. First, you have the traditional backpack-style pack, which is most popular. Messenger bags and sling bags have many of the same features as traditional daypacks but in an over-the-shoulder design. And, finally, there are roller bags, school packs inspired by wheeled luggage.

COMFORT IS KING

Sure, a cool looking pack is, well, cool — but comfort must be your No. 1 concern. Bottom line: books are heavy. You want a backpack with padded shoulder straps, a padded back panel and maybe even a hip belt and sternum strap, which help you carry heavy loads easier.

“Look for adjustable straps that accommodate bigger or smaller body frames,” Haslam says. “It should fit well on your back and shoulders.”

Try it on. Make sure the bag doesn’t ride up toward your shoulders or sag down in the back. It should sit comfortably in the small of your back.

SIZE MATTERS

Take a quick inventory of the things you’ll be carrying on most days. Will everything fit inside the pack? And do you have extra room for gym clothes and things you might carry occasionally, like snow boots or your bicycle helmet? Check the tag, too. The amount of stuff a pack can carry is measured in cubic inches. Be sure to measure the width of your school locker to make sure the bag will fit inside. If you have lots of heavy books and you can’t go to your locker between classes, consider a roller bag. You’ll be able to drag it effortlessly most places (you’ll still have to lift it up and down stairs and onto the bus).

FEATURES

Some guys prefer bags with one big bin-style compartment, while others like plenty of pockets, dividers and holders to keep their stuff organized. Look for handy extras like a cellphone holster, key holder, fleece-lined sunglasses pockets and ports for your headphones.

“A laptop sleeve at the back of the bag is always nice,” Haslam says. “That way you don’t have to search through your bag and figure out what it’s stuck on when you’re trying to pull it out.”

DURABILITY

A quality pack should last long past your high school graduation. Look for bags with sturdy reinforced

bottoms and load-bearing seams lined with binding tape. If you live where it rains a lot, get a water-resistant pack. And never underestimate the need for heavy-duty zippers.

“Thick zippers help keep your bag closed when it’s packed really tight,” Haslam says. “And the straps and buckles need to be strong, too, for those days when the bag is full.”

BEYOND SCHOOL

If you plan to use your backpack for more than just hauling your homework back and forth from school, look for a pack designed with other activities in mind. For instance, if you love skateboarding consider a pack with a skate keeper.

“The thing I look for in a skate pack is that they have Velcro board straps,” Haslam says. “They are more secure in holding the board in one place than just the clip straps.”

Need your pack to do double duty on those Scout outings? Look for a hiking-style daypack that has a large capacity (at least 1,500 cubic inches) and perhaps room for a hydration bladder.

Timekeeping has come a long way since then. These days, watches are like mini-computers that can forecast the weather, help you find your way in the woods or even get you to class on time.

For professional adventure racer Travis Macy, 23, his watch helps with navigation and keeps his team on track during grueling multi-day races.

“If we’re doing a trekking section and we’re falling asleep on our feet, we’ll stop and sleep for half an hour,” says Macy, a former Cub Scout. “And then the whole race is hanging on my watch to wake us up!”

Dealing with that kind of pressure and the race on the line, Macy knows watches. He can teach you a lot about how to pick the best one for your time-keeping needs.

FEATURES

“Before you go to buy a watch, think about the features you’re looking for,” Macy says.

If hiking and camping is your thing, consider a watch with a compass and perhaps an altimeter and barometer. If you’re into jogging, find a heart-rate-monitor watch. Remember: Just because a watch is packed with features and functions doesn’t mean it’ll be easy to use. Try it before you buy to make sure it’s user-friendly.

ANALOG VS. DIGITAL

Most modern watches use tiny quartz minerals to keep the time. When electrified, the quartz crystal vibrates a reliable 32,768 times per second; those vibrations are translated to seconds, minutes and hours. Analog watches have a standard clock-like face with two or three (or more) hands that point at numbers, which is more classic yet can be tougher to read than digital watches. Digitals continuously highlight the exact time in numerals. Some watches have dual faces with both analog and digital readouts.

DURABILITY

If you spend much time outdoors, durability is a key factor in a watch. “Make sure it’s rugged,” Macy says. “If it has a compass swivel on top, try turning that to see if that feels like it’ll hold up. Play with the buttons. Are they easy to push? Take a look at the band and the buckle to make sure they’re flexible and will hold up to the elements.”

SIZE

You want the face of the watch and the numbers to be big enough so you can see them while you’re riding a bike or running. But in general, the bigger the watch the heavier and bulkier it will be. Try to find a size that’s comfortable.

“If you’ll have only one watch, think about whether you’ll want to wear a big watch to school,” he says. “I wear the same big watch for everything, but I’ve gotten used to it. Some guys will feel more comfortable with something smaller.”

THE WATCHBAND

The way your watch is strapped to your wrist is important. If you’re outdoors a lot, choose a polyurethane band. These bands are waterproof, won’t hold odors and are very durable, but they can also be sticky in hot climates. Another good choice is a canvas and Velcro band, which is more breathable.

“Velcro bands keep your watch snug against your wrist and you can wash it when it’s dirty,” Macy says.

Leather bands don’t perform well in wet environments, but they look cool. Meanwhile, metal bands can sometimes pinch your skin, though they are usually super durable.

WHERE TO SHOP

There’s nothing more helpful than going to a store and trying a watch on to see how it feels on your wrist. Of course, you’ll probably pay more at a store versus buying it on the Internet.

“Take a look online and see if you can find a better price,” Macy says. “There are search engines where you can type in the product name and a whole list of prices will come up so you can find out what’s a good price.”

If you buy online, make sure the store is reputable and beware of counterfeit or fake watches.

Not so long ago, you had to carry lots of film and have plenty of cash to get your pictures developed. But things have changed. Just plug the digital camera into your computer. It’s like your own home photo lab.

“Digital makes photography easier and cheaper than ever before,” says professional adventure photographer Corey Rich. “Your ability to grow as a photographer is much greater now because you can see the photos instantly and there’s no limit to how many you can shoot.”

Sounds simple enough. First, though, you need a camera. Digital technology is changing so quickly these days it can be tough to keep it all straight. So we asked Rich to give us tips on how to shop for a new digital camera. Here’s what you need to know.

SIZE MATTERS

“The idea behind making great pictures is having the camera with you all the time,” Rich says. “If a camera is big and cumbersome, more often than not it’ll get left behind.”

Stick with pocket-size cameras, also known as point-and-shoots. Look for a camera that’s compact but still packed with plenty of features and a quality lens.

BE IMAGE CONSCIOUS

Digital images are made up of millions of tiny dots or pixels. In general, the more megapixels, the better the image quality. So that’s one common way to compare digital cameras. If you’re looking for quality prints from your images — especially those larger than 8 inches by 10 inches — avoid cameras with just 1 to 3 megapixels.

“Bottom line: you shouldn’t even consider a camera with less than 4 megapixels,” Rich says.

ZOOM ZOOM

If you plan on taking photos of wildlife, consider getting a camera with an adjustable zoom lens. Look for one with a minimum optical zoom of 3x. Some cameras boast of having “digital zooms,” but that just means the camera can crop the image down — not actually zoom in closer to the subject. For shooting close-ups, make sure your camera also has a macro focus mode.

DON’T LAG

One of the most frustrating problems with some digital cameras is a thing called lagtime, or the amount of time the camera takes to shoot the picture once you’ve pressed the button. It might not seem like a big deal, but even a second of lagtime is a big bummer when shooting action shots.

“If you’re really out there trying to capture moments, you don’t want lag time,” Rich says.

Pick a camera with a burst mode that lets you shoot multiple pictures in a row.

MAKE IT EASY ON ME

“Look for the most automated camera you can find,” Rich says. “It just makes your life easier.”

There’s nothing glorious about fiddling with manual controls, and fortunately many cameras let you choose from preprogrammed functions that will provide quality photos from most any environment or situation.

DURABILITY IS THE DEAL

If you plan to bring your camera on outings, look for one that is dust- and shock-resistant — maybe even waterproof if you’re around water a lot. If the camera says it’s weatherproof it should be able to handle rainstorms but not underwater photography. Also, some cameras can be paired with protective sleeves or cases for added durability.

“Most point-and-shoots are really designed to handle abuse,” he says.

WHAT IT COSTS

Prices continue to drop on digital cameras, so you should be able to find a quality one for less than $200. Look for better deals online but stay away from used cameras, like some you will find on eBay.

Digital cameras store images on memory cards (also known as flashcards). Your camera will probably come with one, but you’ll want to buy at least one or two extras so you can shoot lots of photos without always having to delete or download shots to empty your card. Rich recommends sticking with name-brand cards such as those made by Lexar and stick with flashcards with one gigabyte of memory or less.

“Don’t get lured into buying gigantic flash cards,” Rich warns. “It’s better to buy two. That way if one card breaks or gets wet, your pictures on the other card will be safe.”